All

another awesome frame stiffness topic with @Ryan Burney https://www.vitalmtb.com/forums/hub/can-you-fine-tune-frame-stiffness-j…

Skid meter. High score wins.

OnlyMotion has launched a Kickstarter campaign for their electronic conversion kit for mechanical droppers. More info - https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/onlymotion/worlds-first-electronic… I know this concept was discussed a few pages ago. I appreciate the effort to create something that doesn't exist. I also don't mind the extra cable at my cockpit for a mechanical dropper. I guess if you really want electronic/wireless without having to run the new gen of wireless droppers that look terrible with the battery at the collar, this is for you haha

https://www.pinkbike.com/news/first-ride-bikeyoke-releases-barmate-hand… I'm sure Vital will have a news story sooner or later too, for now PB will have to do. Anywho, finally some proper bar dimensioning being put forward. Dealing with the topic, I think it's essential as current values tell nothing meaningful (qed, a bar 55 mm high from clamp to grips comes out to essentially 35 mm rise in the real world). If you look at Renthal's fatbars, MTB versions have the same vague dimensioning problem but on the moto side EVERYTHING is laid out in detail. You can exactly see where your grips will be in relation...

Yup. I still "regret" trying my friend's Trickstuffs. Now I am on Trinity, and everything else is cheap

Until you grab on some Trinitys

Can we stop with the pipe dreaming, people would be more likely to glue their head to the table than properly use industrial adhesives in a frame jig. Most people struggle with IKEA,

The plan with the Ruffy was never a fully mittered frame. Phil only wanted to send the tubes and they have to be mittered by someone as this is basically the most work to fit everything. The welding is the easy part. I was/am pretty involved in the project and did my frame as a framebuilding course at his workshop last summer. Was an awesome experience and I love the bike.

An awful lot of naysayers on this idea. Here is atleast a Steel 120mm trailbike that looks like it answers your DIY dream: https://www.rheintritt.nrw/Ruffy

They are no strangers to cringe.

The old one only goes to ten.

Maybe a hub that doesn't act like a brake?

Looks like Fox is looking to move to 5 hour service intervals.

This does the same thing for less I think? https://www.amazon.com/Smoove-Lube-Luberetta-applicator-Nozzle/dp/B0CYV…

Slight deviation from 1vs.2 piece calipers, mechanical transmission, and Giant's terrible naming...But you are all lubing your chain wrong RotaLuber has started making this interesting oil applicator tool that disperses oil at the link pin and roller. They did send me one, and it works well with little fuss or mess. I wouldn't say it's something I can't live without now (I've haphazardly lubed my chain the same way for years, and things have been fine), but for those who want the right tool for every job, this likely scratches that itch. From RotaLuber: RotaLuber is designed to deposit...

TLDR: More volts = more betterer for design, and battery requirements, but not a huge impact to the end user if the design is done right. Complicated question and answer. There isn't a massive reason to favor a 48v system over a 36v system. The biggest advantage to a higher voltage system is within the formula/equation for current/watts/amps. Said another way... Amps = Watts / Volts. Here is an example... Assuming 750w power request/output by the motor. 750 watts / 48 volts = 15.6 amps 750 watts / 36 volts = 20.8 amps Batteries are generally more efficient the less...

This is a fact. A bolted joint is essentially springs in parallel so you sum the stiffness of the aluminum portion of the joint and the stiffness of the bolt portion of the joint. Like anything, it can be done well or poorly. Fun fact, I know someone who was going car brakes and thought it would be fun to swap the steel bolts for titanium bolts. The titanium bolts were not as stiff and they started having issues with leaking due to the caliper halves separating under high pressure.

For those who don't want to read / in case the photos get pulled: SRAM Transmission (non AXS aka cable-actuated). Also, tire pressure management system? Wonder if that's just a pressure monitor like a TireWiz or something that can actually change pressures (which could be cool). It comes on all levels so I would assume it's just a built-in monitor. Also also, 160mm cranks stock 🤘

A really bad pic - But a bike reviewer posted some pics of his current test mule, and he had blurred out a seatpost and a drivetrain. The seatpost was clearly the new Rockshox dropper, so I thought that the drivetrain might be something from srammers as well. He had posted a very dark pic of the same bike just a few hours earlier. Which with a little bit of editing - Looks like this Clearly a transmission-esque rear deraillieur, with a transmission casette. Front chainring looks different from any of the wireless models, and since there are two hoses/cables...