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Personal opinion, I’d never buy anything sram if not ultimate/silver level. Base might have a nicer pull but they’re on bushings, that will get sloppy and noisy quick, just like everything else they make. And this is a fact, not an opinion. Same with having the contact adjust on the higher end maven, if not base I’d 100% recommend those, you can make them softer and they work great. I have done that dumb pull the lever until contact and check the weight, it was the same as any XT/XTR brake out of the box, so they’re heavy pull when...

Racers have crashed on short stems because they haven't used them with long chainstays. If you feel more comfortable on a 42,5mm stem then stick with that. I've tested -10, 10, 17 and 20mm in the last decade and I've settled on 20mm. My bike has 474mm chainstays and I have loads of front end grip.

Low hydraulic leverage combined with short levers = lower power. Attached is a chart that I put together calculating hydraulic leverage based on MC piston and caliper piston diameters. There are some obvious components missing from this, notably mechanical leverage that is a result of the cam geometry and lever length. But it overall follows what I have felt with the brakes that I have tried. Personally, its been a long time since I've felt that Saints were top in the class, with the issues of Shimano's needing lever bleeds pretty regularly and the weird feel of the servo wave...

Increasing my ride times and frequency to train up for a long race has really made me appreciate faster-rolling tires more. Plus, the skill increase from the amount of riding and dialing in line choice kind of negates (with certain exceptions) any downsides to not having the most hardcore, sticky rubber you can find.

+ 1 on the mavens to be the one to rule them all. My set has been flawless and hasnt been touched and i dont even have to worry about aftermarket pads or different rotors as the whole package is pretty much perfect to me. When i first got my new bike with mavens on i wasnt pleased at all. I have been on the dominion bandwagon for a long time. After ridding the mavens for a while now i must say i got used to them. I put the contact point almost all the way in wich made it...

What does running a stem that 'matches the fork offset' have anything to do with anything? This is one of the most WTF claims I have heard regarding bikes and bike fits. Where in relation to this offset is the tyre to ground contact patch? How does the handlebar to patch relation change relative to wheel size? Fork axle to crown? Dynamic sag? Travel position? Head angle?! Most importantly, what does the position you attach your handlebars to have anything to do with riding dynamics when you can have multiples of 10 mm difference in handlebar setback (effective reach or...

Maxxgrip up front all the way. Not even a decision. I'm genuinely curious about the fast-rolling-tread, softest-rubber tire. I'm assuming at least DD-level casing for the rear and Maxxis? Feels like a trivia question. Dissector? I've always heard those last about 3 runs in Maxxgrip on the rear. To reiterate, really not meaning to call you out. Sincerely interested in what you're running. Personally, I'd love to see an updated Aggressor in DD and merely maxxterra. I tried a Contin Xynotal, but I've concluded I really like a bit of channel, even in the rear, so I can really lean...

I worked with Frank The Welder when I was in high school so he was the first one I reached out to. He’s most recently come back into the spot light working with Neko and Frameworks. https://www.frankthewelder.com/ But I just completed a steel DH frame project with Adam Prosise who did an incredible job. He’s got an unbelievable attention to detail. Was able to get 3d printed steel parts for my frame also. Instagram- @prosisemetalworks

I, for one, cannot wait for our new Dandotal rubber overlord.

Riding today and realized as I was pumping and carving through rolling turns why I love long cs bikes: I can pump and carve through rolling turns at the same time and keep traction at both tires. Before I made the change to my bike I kind of had to pick one: if I was weighting the rear I lost the front, and if I was weighting the front it made it hard to actively pump. Being able to weight my feet and carve through turns means I can actively pump in and out of the turn. Lower grade turns...

Sorry, but I've never tested the Rekon. Looks like a great rear trail tire. If you care about max traction, well buy the max traction tires. But if you are on a trail bike and want the max overall speed, there is a lot to be gained by going with 'just enough traction' tires. It also can make you feel like quite the hero at times, sliding around, gaining speed everywhere.

20% heavier wheels is like 2 or 3 pounds. For tall riders that is absolutely negligible. It's a small market, and maybe too small to be viable, but if short people have 24", 26", and 27.5" wheel options, I don't see the harm in letting people over 6'4" have an additional choice. I'm 6'7" and people are constantly asking me if my bikes are 27.5 since the wheels look comically undersized versus the frame. I'd happily try a little extra weight to see if a larger wheel diameter helps compensate for my higher center of gravity.

Just last week, I started to get a new rattle in the front end of the bike. It sounded pretty bad, like a very loose bolt, after a few minutes I started to worry that it might even be a loose ball bearing wandering around my headset. I eventually stopped riding and discovered my handlebars were acting like a rainstick/maracas... WTF? Turns out I had slid out the previous ride and damaged my grip, I had replaced them when I got home with some silicone ones I had in the garage (supergluing them in the process...). Except during the crash...

2009, first season in Whistler I ordered a new giant glory to replace a broken frame in the lead up to Crankworx, 2 hours of it being in my hands I managed to destroy it… So when you’re young, stupid, in a hurry, and never used certain bike tools before always double check the removal tool in against the headset cup, and always check that one of the prongs didn’t slip through the steerer tube hole into the downtube then proceed to beat the shit out of it because your friend told you it’s not moving hit it harder, until...

Great question. This might be the best thread on Vital. I have so many to share, but a great one is showing up to a shuttle day with all my riding gear, a change of clothes, lunch, electrolyte drink mix, etc, but I forgot my bike. For everyone else that meant they got a designated full-time shuttle driver that day.

I got some new tires, inserts, tape, and sealant. Kryptotals, which ended up being some of the tightest beads I’ve ever tried to put on. Front went on well. Back broke two tire levers. The second broke as the tire went on, so I had to crack it open to get the lever piece out. Got some sealant in, and tried pumping it up. And tried again, and again and again and again. I couldn’t get it to seat. Let it sit in the sun, used some soapy water, everything. Finally, finally the bead was seated and it held air...

So new XTR headlines are: no cables, no clutch and the wandering bite point might be resolved? Am the only one who was hoping for some more tangible upgrades?

Agressor's side knobs are a joke.

Can I patent the ole one eye squint? For real tho, equalizing the gap on each side between the sanctions and bars is way easier than aligning the stem with the tire.

i just want to make one last comment re: deleting pics, community etc then i'll be quiet. over the last few years, i've become very aware of how much of a privilege it is to be a part of a community that is supported by some of the best brands in our game. but the key word here is community...YOU all are the community. without you and your sleuthing, your knowledge, your stoke for the sport and its equipment, or your informed opinions, vital wouldn't be very special. with that said, if all vital does is bow down to brands...