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The clutch cover looks the same as on the new di2s to me. I'd assume it's a two spring setup unfortunately.
Hm, new saint cassette seems to be going 9t for highest gear, that most likely necessitates new free hub 🤔https://www.ridewill.com/p/en/shimano-sh-icsg80008924-saint-cs-g8000-8-8-speed-mtb-cassette-9-24d/1792697/
Likely a microspline driver.
Not sure that would work with 9t sprocket?
That pic shows 11t sprocket
It does. They have 9-45t cassettes already.
Pic is generic cassette that has nothing to do with the actual product that will be released sometime soon.
My son saw something about Ozark Trail possibly dropping some legit FS bikes?
They kind of already have, Pinkbike even reviewed it in a field test
MS, just the bottom 8 gears of the newer 9-45t XT stuff from what I understand.
The conventional wisdom about Shimano used to be that they moved slowly with product development but (with a few exceptions) released stuff that just worked. But the dual-spring clutchless derailleurs don't seem like they fall into that category of "just works." (Caveat: I have not ridden one myself. I'm basing this on other people's reviews.) Will be very interesting to see if Shimano sticks to their guns on this design, or if they backtrack in a year or two.
The unfortunate part is the redesign or revision will take a decade to come out as usual.
No, not that bike.. Something going a bit higher end.. For the price, that bike is pretty impressive,..
While I haven't ridden it myself yet, all the people who I know who have, which is about 7-8 people on a variety of bikes, have no complaints about the clutch. No dropped chains, no excess noise, no feedback from chain slap. I hope to get some time on it soon.
I'd say the modern codes have been made worse somehow recently, they were decent brakes some years ago, not as strong as Saints but better modulation and good reliability. I also have a friend who bought epic evo and he complained immediately how terrible they are and replaced them asap.
Nah I think it's just a modern perspective on an older brake. The Code RSC has always felt like an OK brake for trail bikes for me and that's about it. Code R belongs on Trek Marlin factory builds and not a lot else.
Codes have plenty of power in the same way that my old Transition Patrol from 2015 had plenty of wheelbase. Got great memories of that bike feeling fantastically long and slack, I hope to never ride one again because the memories will be ruined.
Cable operated Deore 12s just dropped with the dual spring design. (this is new right? Or am I having a stroke?)
edit: initially found on a distro, just saw the pb article now.
The PB article though, seems to show the fatty discs from the saint protos. Side-note, amusing they use non-SRAM UDH in marketing.
Sorry for the ted talk, but it's actually official:
Will this finally bring the industry over to 200 mm over 203 mm?
I feel like they think they discovered hot water with those statements,
Also, funny how until yesterday it was impossible to fit anything thicker than 1.8 and absolutely useless, according to Shimano, but now hey, 2.2 😅 which is very welcome of course
I mean, 200 was brought to you by sram 😒 previously making 183 and 203 rotors not so long ago in the Avid days
It would be lovely to just pick one and stick with it, even 220/203 really not needed let’s pick one and stick with it
Downtime mentioned how widespread the breeden bar ends are becoming, with people like Bruni, Pierron and many many others using them. Owning a pair, having recovered from 2 broken hands (left then right) in 3 years, I've found they definitely live up to the hype and really helped with arm pump and security of my weak hands on the bars.
The bar ends are a much more interesting innovation than I originally expected, because they significantly change the biomechanics of the upper-body while riding. Stopped by the Orbea pits this weekend and they've cut grips down (pretty sure it was Phoebe's bike) to exactly the width of the rider's hand which allows them to put constant pressure on the outside of the hand and more effectively lock into the bike rather than allow the hand to float a bit to the end like most have them setup. I'd assume it also allowed them to cut the bar down a bit because that makes more sense than moving the cut-down grips and brakes to the bar ends. I'd expect the locked-in hand approach with no room to float maximizes the spread the work from impacts, vibration, etc to more of the upper body and the improves on all of benefits of running them.
Power of thiccness is a wild marketing line
I saw this too somewhere on instagram. I know I had a performance level Fox DPS and a 38 and what looked to be TRP brakes. I cannot recall what groupset was on it.
Code haters are just exhausting people. Codes are fine, always will be. Just because a maven exists.
Remember, at one point WC downhillers had guides on their bikes. And guides suddenly became the worst brakes of all time the same day codes got released… time is a flat circle
Do you have a way of articulating how to use these? I know that seems like a silly question, but I have major hand issues and I have a pair sitting here. The main reason I haven't put them on yet is because I'm not really sure what the actual way to use them looks like. I was going to experiment later this week.
Are you pressing the edge of your hand against the bar end actively or is it more of a loosen your grip, let your hand float, and use the bar end for security?
I tried the current Saints (at least they looked alike) right after they changed from the cylinder that was 90° to the handlebars. I worked at a bikeshop nd was super pumped, that must have been 2013/2014, so at least externally this brake has barely changed over at least 12 years, crazy!
Anyhow, the pitepoint was wandering so much forward that I actually crashed a couple of times from grabbing to much brake in the wrong situation. I remember bleeding them a couple of times, without any difference. Ever since I haven’t bought a Saint again, because I was literally scared to use them. So I went through all the guide, code etc. without any issues. But I recently rode a demo bike with codes and couldn’t believe how much more demanding the ride was compared to current brakes I ride.
First, when you install make sure they're properly secure and can take a lot of force w/out coming out- one of two didn't tighten until I bashed out all of the plastic end of my old ODIs. I'd try out both and see what works for you depending on the issues you have. I do a bit of both but was more actively pressing against them when fatigued towards the bottom of laps and end of the day to compensate reduced grip strength. Dakota mentioned in the last inside line episode that you can use them for more leverage on the bar when turning and I've found that to be true as well but was less noticeable from my perspective. My next move will be positioning the brake levers closer to the grip to try a more locked in setup like the one the Orbea was running w/out cutting the bars/grips, which I'd expect would mean fatiguing more slowly. It's a more compartmentalized concept (to the upper body) but similar to how mx riders grip with the knees to help share loads/impact across the body... as for downsides I'm not a steezelord but didn't bother me when whipping or doing tables, but if you can buzz your shoulder with the front wheel they might get in your way.
But don't expect it to be this single thing that fixes the hands- I run plush grips, motocross palm protectors under the gloves, and do workouts that help with grip strength - combined together I can ride normally though some things likely help me more than others.
You do know codes existed way before guides right?
The current stealth ones are the 4th generation, with the first two being under the avid name. Most dh people were running the second generation with the silver lever that was based on the elixers, instead of guides before the RSC came out.
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