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I've been running 180-210 droppers for the last few years, and the bike that I always seem to want/need the max drop on is my Dreadnought. I had a Spur with a 180 and probably could have used a 150 without penalty. On my Druid v2, 180 is fine. There was zero overlap between the Spur and Dread in terms of trail selection, whereas the Druid pushes into Dread terrain a bit more. For me, gnarlier terrain = more drop. YMMV
Not specifically tied to Fox, but in general launching at Otter has lost its luster. You spend a year and tons of money developing a product. It gets shared on the media at Otter and then gets shuffled to the bottom of the page pretty quick because so many new things are coming at the same time. Launching just before Otter gives more time of consumer attention and then gets seen again at Otter.
I think that trend will continue with less and less officially launched at Otter, especially for those with significant marketing budgets.
Insertion depth is a big one for me. I run a 210 on my Top Fuel and a 240 on my Sight. I wouldn't get another DC/small travel trail bike that doesn't let me use at least 210. If anything, I wish I could have more on both bikes.
Considering it only has a spot for one water bottle it makes total sense for it to have internal storage. I don't do a single ride without 750ml of water in my frame storage. It's literally the ideal spot to add that type of weight for the bike's handling. It's very freeing to do a 3hr ride with no pack. Most other XC/DC bikes have a spot for a 2nd bottle so the weight is already there (in a worse spot) if you're on a big ride.
It's wild to me how many people have gaslighted themselves into believing that frame storage (a giant hole void of frame material) MUST add weight. World Cup XC races have been won on bikes with frame storage.
You could fit over 2L of water on/in this bike and do a huge 5+ hour backcountry epic with no pack, or at least no water on your back.
Frame storage enables packless riding which we all love right?
This exact thing is the only thing I want internal storage for. And really only for a downcountry-esque bike. Even if it weighs a smidgeon more. For a backcountry ride I'm usually using a USWE pack, but I rarely get through the whole thing unless it's in the summer (or we're talking like a 6k+ ft day).
I guess an argument you can make is to bring a soft bottle filter with you and strap it down instead... I haven't tried that so if it's someone else's go-to I'd be curious how secure that setup is.
Also /waves from Roanoke. Arcadia's a fine place for a backcountry ride
Good call, I've added it!
I have a 180v2 on my S3 Druidv2, I tried a 210v3 but it was no bueno. (not enough insertion) The 180 is plenty however.
The collapsible filter method has been my go-to for long rides in the PNW (always a creek nearby).
The Katadyn befree filters are great. I like to use the befree replacement filter tops with a smaller (16oz) collapsible Hydrapak bottle. They use the same thread pitch and the small form factor allows you to stow the filter system in your SWAT compartment.
it only takes one taint slam via hard compression....
That’s what I do as well. A small collapsible water filter for longer rides. While I’d prefer every bike has in frame storage, as long as it has an accessory mount I’m good. I have a little bag that mounts to the accessory mounts, it can hold my collapsible filter, tool and one of those lightweight tubes. My local trails all have streams and rivers so I have unlimited water on long rides.
I was in the same boat as I've had a 175mm Reverb AXS Gen 1 on multiple bikes then I demoed a bike with a 240mm OneUp dropper and immediately understood what I was missing out on, as it really did help get the seat further out of the way and was noticeably easier to move the bike around when descending. That said, even though I ride an XL frame, I think my personal preference would probably be around 220-225mm as dropping a seat post 240mm is not really comfortable on my knees to do 100+ times during a ride.
ok, shorty
Haha, I’m 6’ 2” so I assume I could run a longer drop, I haven’t given it much thought.
Location matters. I have an xc hardtail in the midwest at my MIL's house... that bike has a 170mm dropper and it is more then enough. Out west where I live, I do not ride anything less then 210mm drop because it makes a difference. The riding is completely different however... one is gaining and losing elevation at 20-50-100' at a time, and the other is climbing for 1-2 hours straight and descending for 10-15 minutes straight down the steepest terrain possible. Both setups work great for their intended purpose for my 6'3" frame.
Question for the downvoters: have you ever considered, just not using your frame storage if you don't like it?
Can we have a frame storage thread!? I'm at embarrassing levels of nerdy about it.
Must be for Kolb to run 27.5 on XL frame?
or a 29er on a Large frame ?
Coming from the PNW and never seeing running water on a long ride in SoCal has been a real adjustment, and it means I have to carry way more water on my person, or spend a lot of time looking at maps to figure out where all the stores and water fountains are, or both.
I miss creeks. And shade. And overcast days. Don't ever leave. Stay there as long as you can, Cam. AS LONG AS YOU CAN.
He said in comments of a recent instagram post he's on a XL frame. I remember back in his YT days he chose not to run mullet because he was more consistent or something like that on full 29". He also ran that bike in the long chainstay configuration all the time, so if it's not to correct mullet geo it could simply be extra long and tall for a big dude.
Also, I'm 99% sure that's a 223mm Freeza rotor, finally. As I write this, the stamped RT66 is the only Shimano rotor you can buy in that size, which is wild to me. Shimano needs to release a bigger high-end laser cut brake rotor for heavy dudes, ebikes, and steep places.
I had to switch from 175 to 210 because I kept smashing my nuts in the back of my seat.
Especially since the RT66 is soft and doesn't work well with sintered pads in my experience.
Time for new 220mm rotors with the new saint for sure
I figured you were on the tall side!
I think the dropper insertion makes the biggest difference for shorter folks! With many bikes with taller seat tubes or not much insertion length because of shock tunnel/seat tube kink (spec Enduro), the height and position of the seat can really impede mobility on the bike: leaning it over, getting low, jumping and pumping. On my specialized Enduro the seat used to run into and scratch the insides of my things when I was really leaning it over. I'm 5'5 btw.
Personally, The transition Horst link is the best design I've found for short riders or anyone looking to maximize insertion. Before getting a V2 sentinel, I always ran a 150mm. Can now run 180!
This got long and rambling but the main point is that seat tube length and insertion really impacts shorter people. Because most reviewers and bikers seem to be close to 6 ft, I never really hear about it in reviews.
2 liters for a 5 hour ride isn’t nearly enough, but I agree with your other point.
I bet you pee like a racehorse.
What is this shade you speak of?
Jokes aside, I’ve learned to embrace wearing long sleeve sun shirts while riding in SoCal and occasionally soak my shirt when I find water so I can stay cool during the dog days of summer 🫠
New Fox 38 release date is March 26th 4pm UTC
Nothing crazy - Glidecore air spring, X2 damper, speed hole arch. Weight starts at 2200g for 29"
New 40 release date is March 19th 4pm UTC
Similar treatment as the 38, but looks like a new mud guard and cassette tooling for the air top-cap
The symptom of peeing a lot during physical exertion is caused by a lack of sodium; often because the sodium that would be holding the water in has been sweated out. When that water can't be held in, whatever isn't sweated out will be peed out.
Sodium helps the water stay in the system. Adding some sodium amount into your bottles will help you hold more water in and allow the water to be useful.
It'll taste a little gross until you get used to it, but try adding some lemon juice and some table salt into your bottle before a ride. You'll probably feel better afterwards (and during) and have to stop to pee less.
I have a high sweat rate and a relatively high amount of sodium in my sweat so I go for ~1200mg of sodium per hour (1/2 teaspoon of table salt). The typical sodium rates for athletes are 900mg-1500mg per hour but can range from 500mg-2500mg per hour as we approach the most common versions of the extremes. If your shirts have light salt rings on 'em after a ride, you're around 1300mg per hour (or higher) of sodium being sweated out.
That's why salty-ass chips are so tasty after a ride with a moderate-to-high exertion; you're sweating that shit out.
Of course, this is all assuming a reasonably healthy diet around the rides. If you're an especially salty eater that'll throw off how much you need to add back in.
I'm confused. If people describe me as a salty person, does that help or hurt my hydration levels on a ride?
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