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I've discussed these kinds of brake combos with him and he persistantly insists that they don't have a lot of throw (which just isn't true). The brake will have tons of power but will naturally have lots of throw. I tried a Radic/Gustav setup and the lever throw was 28mm with the pads against the rotor. For some reason he likes to mislead.
Love the levers. Bumped up the ergonomics and also modulation + power is much better! Looks good aswell 😎

Bro I think you gotta stop dragging brake
RE: glazing issues. I also run the TRP S05E rotors also and occasionally drag brakes, depending on trail, depending on how steep. But that's cause it's steep, and they certainly are getting hot (I have a rotor shaped burn mark on my right arm from the last time I crashed - bike landed on me and rotor touched my arm for like 2sec before I could shove it off). They are my favorite rotor because of how true they come out of the box, and how quiet. For myself and others using them, the HS2 is decent and widely available, but always require a lot of truing out of the box. I forget if Galfer makes their Sharks in 180mm - but those are pretty good too. They're not as true as TRP though, offer the sharpest bite feel, and tend to be noisier. I also have noticed they produce a weird wear pattern on pads from the holes. Their Wave rotors are really noisy, and I had one come badly warped out of the box (so much I couldn't fix it). I'd run HS2 over Waves.
IME, Galfer green pads last 1/4 the time of sintered/metallic pads. I do think that you want organic/hybrid pads though if you think you're struggling to heat up the pads enough.
One final thought - if you want to try and correct your brake dragging habits, I'd suggest trying to make your brakes as powerful and sharp biting as possible. It will force you to brake in short bursts. Also at the same time try to practice braking early.
Your final tip is what helped me.
I had pretty good service out of the cheap Shimano RT66 but they wore too thin way too quickly. They only lasted one set of organic pads before they were under spec. Unexceptable.
Where are you guys finding the HS1's cheap? They are the same price as my go to rotor, the TRP ROS1E.
Maybe a paint removal air gun would also work? They go up to 600 degrees Celsius and might be more useful for a home mechanic that doesn't have either...
If nothing else, even at the same temperature, a flame will also burn off oily residue while an air gun might not.
Just curious—why IPA over brake cleaner?
no residues left from additives
Much better taste and less painful hangover.
So after a decade on shimano brakes I’ve got some cheap db8s in the mail. I’ll definitely try them as is and likely switch to mtx pads at some point, but I also have a set of maven bronze levers. I’ve seen a lot about using the maven calipers, but had anyone swapped the maven levers over?
why would you get the levers and not the maven calipers which is what makes them good
Cuz when a friend gives you the levers and keeps the calipers you end up with the levers and not the calipers
I've been itching to try Shimano levers with the DB8 calipers. I think it'd be a neat thing to try.
I have tried this, but they were secondhand old xt deore levers and they were leaky AF. Tried to resurrect them with after market seal kits by no cigar.
Ended up buying Zrace levers and they are a fantastic combo with the DB8 calipers
I do want to try and find some Lewis radial cylinder levers (lv4 ones) to try, but I’d probably wait until tariffs calm down
I'm now on MT7's with the zrace levers on one bike (mave some MT5's to put on the other bike that is currently running the zrams...
Hello brake nerds. I subjected my partner and best friend to a year of brake swaps to get their opinions. We made a low production value video talking about our thoughts.
I would also like to contribute some brake info because I actually took the time to disassemble and measure the master cylinder diameters.
Really interesting how different the Lewis and Hayes feel with identical hydraulic specs. Lever geometry, leverage curve, return spring rate, seal friction, and pad compound all add up.
Also I feel like formula would make a few running changes and be competing with the top dogs.
Upcoming Brembo specs put it above the Mavens in terms of hydraulic leverage. I pulled on a set at Champery worlds and the lever feel seemed really good as well.
Also very interested to get my hands on the Hope GR4's and Maven Base. So if anyone wants to buy/trade some of these brakes hit me up haha
First, I really appreciate the work that it took to do this. I can't even begin to imagine.
Second, what are the changes you spoke about to the Formula's to compete with the big dogs?
Lastly, did you ever come up with any of the data from the brake ace for the Lewis vs Hayes?
Whats people's favorite Shimano lever alternative but keeping the shimano calipers? Shimano lever blades just snap so easily I'd like to try something else.
@Evwan @iceman2058 backlink
Different rotors = different cooling.
So they don’t use a control pad or a control rotor?
Their test setup photos don’t look like they properly apply the force to the pocket of the brake lever either.
Junk science all around IMO.
I inferred that they tested the XTR's as a set with the XTR rotor, the SLX's as a set with the SLX rotor, Hayes' as a set with the Hayes rotor, Formula with Formula, etc...
They then also tested with Sinter pads as control. They missed a few combinations and the hypothesis/method/apparatus/etc isn't described with technical rigor, so perhaps it wouldn't pass as a scientific paper, but it's not a scientific paper. I feel that I can make meaning of the results.
Iirc they use the product as shipped, as it's much more relevant than people mix and matching which doesn't happen on stock bikes.
It's one of the better brake tests done, sorry it's not to your standards.
I'll kindly wait your entirely free review of 14 brake systems in and out of the lab, until then, maybe be a touch more accepting.
About to pull the trigger on some mavens. Anyone have strong thoughts on the various models including the base? Leaning towards the Bronze for simplicity but open to hear people's thoughts.
Rumor is that SRAM is going to be releasing new maven options soon. I’d hold off until at least April (sea otter) if you can.
Does anyone here have experience on both radic kaha and maven’s?
I’d be curious to know how the braking power on both compares. I’m drawn to kaha for the low dead stroke and light lever action, but I’m not willing to give up much power from mavens.
The bronze don't have contact adjust, if you care about that sort of thing. But if an update is around the corner, the 2nd hand market will look a lot more attractive
Then the GR4 with the Power levers are a great alternative
Less fiddly than the mavens, look way better, nicely build, way easier to bleed and service, nicer tolerances, plenty of power, more modulation
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