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I've used a Giant Control Tower HP/HV for close to a decade and never had a problem setting a tubeless bead. Ditched my charger/inflator because of it. Not all High-Volume pumps are created equal. Prepare your jokes... The Control Tower's handle shaft is the maximum allowable diameter to fit into the main shaft, so you get nearly double the volume. Any HV pump that has a narrow handle shaft, like most pumps, isn't really an HV. I know Feedback Sports makes a HV pump with a wide diameter handle shaft. I'm sure there are others. You just need to... check...

My personal bike has multiple layers of 15mm kapton tape on the hoops. It’s just wide enough to cover the spoke holes and leaves the rim beds wide open. Even with a bunch of layers it’s so thin that you would have a hard time catching your bead on it. I can’t recommend it enough

Use the meat of your palm, not your thumbs.

It’s less than 1mm thick but it’s plenty durable and has no issue being stretched. I’ve been harping on about this stuff for a while and it’s recently been brought to my attention that absolute black is selling rebranded kapton tape at a 500% markup. $20 for 33ft Vs $10 for 100ft AbsoluteBlack do go out of their way to deny that this is off the shelf Kapton tape but color me skeptical of their AI generated explanation.

I used to use a compressor at the gas station, but I purchased the specialized MTB pump and it seats tubeless great. Done trail to dh casing without much fuss. I guess my only advice is to use soapy water to find any leaks, usually those show up on the spokes and show you should re tape.

Washing up liquid with hot water in a spray bottle is what I use for bicycle and motorcycle tyres. Also using a car rim as a base is a good idea as long as you don't have coloured spokes.

New SRAM stuff is prohibitively expensive. Still buy and use GX Eagle. Why would I need anything else? I’m a gravity rider…my derailleur goes through hell. The last thing I want is to put a $600 derailleur on my bike. Upgrades to shifting? It’s a drivetrain…I click the shifter and the chain changes gear. What is there to upgrade?

Advent MX is so good. I'm running it on the ebike but would happily run it on my park or trail bike too. MicroShift derailleurs are much more impact resistant than Shimano in my experience. All I want from a derailleur is for it to be cheap, overbuilt, and never in my spokes. Their customer service is great too. I broke a tooth on the cassette early on and they shipped out a new one no questions asked. Imagine going through that with Shimano.

I can add a bit more being on the design team for this bike. We can do a better job at calling out the "why" in the short press release. There will be upcoming videos talking about it, but here it is from the design side of things. As bike designers we are constrained by the shape of the motor and battery. We can't change these designs. Riders are wanting bigger batteries (800wh in this bikes case). We also have great demand to fit more shocks, from inline, to the largest enduro and coil shocks. We have to have fork...

I have a hosted demo (read-only) version of by analysis software live at demo.bodaqs.net . No installation needed, just follow the link. If you want, there are some short familiarization videos on YouTube, here . As usual, I welcome and encourage all feedback. I'm aiming for a quality product here, and I'm grateful for the insight others have brought to it this far. I'll be publishing the most recent logger design this week too - stay tuned :-) Build website: bodaqs.net Instagram.com/bodaqs Github.com/benconnor1972/bodaqs https://discord.gg/rpqqWbtwXJ

Saint drivetrain with 12sp chain and no clutch, now a competing UDH standard. (incoming 13sp MTB drivetrain? *eyeroll *) Can Shimano come out with a single new product without a braindead decision? Maybe the new brake rotors but come on that's not interesting or innovative. Also does anyone give a f about Shimano's new brakes? I've yet to see them in the wild, and have seen exactly ONE wireless Shimano drivetrain. Very sad to me because I've always been a Shimano fanboy because they made simple, sensible products. I woke up one day and all of my bikes have been...

Ok you dingleberries. Rather than debating the merit of which way to mullet your rotors, why not just run 220 front and back?

Also just to be clear, I am not saying there's no difference between motor brands when it comes how the motors feel to pedal when not engaged just that most of the pedalling thorough treacle felling you feel when over the speed cut off is down to the physics of needing to make up for the lost watts yourself rather than small differences in motor drag/friction.

People often blame motor resistance for the difficulty pedalling over the cut-off but IMO it's very little to do with that. It's more to do with your legs instantly having to double, triple or quadruple their output once the to motor drops. If you are riding at 24.99kmh with 150w of your own power and 350w from the motor (i.e. 500w in total) then once you hit 25kmh your are going to need to put that 500w+ by yourself to maintain that speed. The only motor on that graph that has enough resistance to cause an issue is the MGU...

I hate to break it to you, but both can be true. There can both be utter fanboys of anything (big suspension, tuners, products, what have you) and designs that are objectively really poor. Designs where you have to wonder how they passed any testing. Before getting into such issues, suspension setups of less experienced riders tend to have a lot of room for improvement. I think that's due to mostly two reasons: - A heap of "tutorials" are put out by people that are at least bad at explaining and maybe even bad at understanding the concepts behind suspension...

I tried the WT ones for a couple of weeks and ended up taking them off for a few reasons. They made my existing bars feel too narrow. I’ve run this width for a while but the bar end changed arm angle and felt awkward / super tight. Might be my hand position. I really disliked them when climbing my enduro bike. I’ve never noticed how much I move my hands, rest on ends of the bar, flare at an angle, etc. These made me feel constrained on climbs to a certain position and made my hands tired.

I wasn't sure where everything was coming from but a bit of Googling shows there was a suspension guru with the handle Dougal on mtbr that got banned for... Let's say unkind posts. I think @DServy assumes @Dougal - SC is the same person behind the mote or less the same handle and doesn't want Vital MTB to turn to the shitshow that was MTBR before the ban. Or something along those lines?

This is the topcap of a Charger 3.1 Flight attendant........ Not saying its got RS internals, but the layout is extremely similar

Maybe Scott tries to claim that - heating is definitely an issue but 95% of the time the airflow over an "external" shock is enough that they reach an equilibrium and don't normally exceed 40-50 degrees in regular use. Extreme, high speed descents might get a bit hotter but high speed = high air flow so most of the time things balance out. On the dyno though if you run a shock at a speed roughly equivalent to the average energy of a DH run, it will heat at a constant rate and can reach 60 degrees in 3 minutes...