All

Thank you. I feel a lot of people here have been riding longer than I have, but damn it’s been 20 years for me and 29ers have been around for half of it…a decade! It seems wild to have seen all those old dudes take their principled stands, be 100% wrong, and still be so confident that you’re not the old guy now…disc brakes droppers tubeless ebikes, those are all sick but for sure you’re gonna be right about this 32” thing?!?!? U crazy!

Oh look here's ballz criticising a penis joke Sorry guys I couldn't help it.

Yeah, I agree that the b1 overall have less power then a1s. I've tried pretty much all flavors of Maven's and by my estimation the power heirarchy is: Maven Base, Maven B1, Maven B1 levers w/A1 caliper and lastly Maven A1. The A1 are much snappier with a narrower window of modulation from deadband to enough to lock. Whether B1s actually have less power I cannot say, but in practical application when you're clamping down on the brakes they feel like they have less power per mm of lever pull and less power overall. I still prefer the a1s on...

The B1 will have less power per X amount of finger pull force compared to the A1, both as a result of having smaller pistons and also the different cam. Even running the B1 cams with A1 caliper I noticed a reduction in power per squeeze force, and went back to the A1 cams.

I feel he lost the plot after the switch to Lewis brakes, talking about unsprung mass in a caliper vs using heavy af wheels 🥲 that’s pointless as

"pad/piston retraction was better due to the Lewis LHP lever pushing and pulling" I don't think beekay understands how calipers work.

There is a really simple solution to minimising lever throw and not blocking off the timing port - adjust the bite point/pushrod with the bleed syringes connected and make sure fluid still goes from lever to caliper. It takes a bit of trial and error but its foolproof.

It is wild to me that the majority of discussion in this thread continues to be around the 8-year-old Hayes Dominion. For the record, I own three sets.

I futzed with changing the pushrod length when I owned a couple pairs of Dominions, and they were all set to slightly different lengths from the factory. So I don't buy that they're set at the absolute minimum limit. They definitely have a nominal length specification (I know because when I went too far, I asked for what it should be to go back to factory setting) but assembly tolerances are a thing. The BPC is definitely set to the minimum position from the factory though. It's just that there is slight variation in how far into the pivot bushing...

In the above picture, you can see the pushrod, which is used to adjust the bite point. Clockwise advances the piston in the bore, counterclockwise retreats it. Adjust it too much and the seal on the piston can block off the timing port hole, circled in red, effectively closing the brake off. Hayes made much about setting this gap between seal and port holes as minimum as possible from the factory and recommend against mucking around with it. Bite point adjustment does nothing to the caliper pistons' location. That is designed into the seal and seal seat interface and cannot...

The second response was clearly written by someone who's never ridden a set of brakes hard for months on end without tearing them down and deep cleaning/servicing them. In theory, yes... you shouldn't need to fiddle with contact point over the life of a set of pads. But in practice, slight variations in caliper alignment, piston advancement due to filth and micro tolerances, rotor straightness, etc. etc. all lead to a change in contact point feel.

And they are correct. If you however adjust the contact adjuster clockwise you can close off the timing port holes, effectively making the brake a closed system, proven when you can't push fluid through the system. The experiences on this forum show others having turned the contact adjust too far and caused the above issue. I experimented on the last set I installed and yep, You can close the timing port holes and then turn it counterclockwise to get the fluid to flow through again. And yes, the caliper pistons adjust for pad wear by design, a fundamental of disc...

The answer is yes. Signed, one who got curious and had to try it out and see.