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I wouldn’t want to work on these things, plus, ugly af

There is a really simple solution to minimising lever throw and not blocking off the timing port - adjust the bite point/pushrod with the bleed syringes connected and make sure fluid still goes from lever to caliper. It takes a bit of trial and error but its foolproof.

It is wild to me that the majority of discussion in this thread continues to be around the 8-year-old Hayes Dominion. For the record, I own three sets.

I futzed with changing the pushrod length when I owned a couple pairs of Dominions, and they were all set to slightly different lengths from the factory. So I don't buy that they're set at the absolute minimum limit. They definitely have a nominal length specification (I know because when I went too far, I asked for what it should be to go back to factory setting) but assembly tolerances are a thing. The BPC is definitely set to the minimum position from the factory though. It's just that there is slight variation in how far into the pivot bushing...

In the above picture, you can see the pushrod, which is used to adjust the bite point. Clockwise advances the piston in the bore, counterclockwise retreats it. Adjust it too much and the seal on the piston can block off the timing port hole, circled in red, effectively closing the brake off. Hayes made much about setting this gap between seal and port holes as minimum as possible from the factory and recommend against mucking around with it. Bite point adjustment does nothing to the caliper pistons' location. That is designed into the seal and seal seat interface and cannot...

The second response was clearly written by someone who's never ridden a set of brakes hard for months on end without tearing them down and deep cleaning/servicing them. In theory, yes... you shouldn't need to fiddle with contact point over the life of a set of pads. But in practice, slight variations in caliper alignment, piston advancement due to filth and micro tolerances, rotor straightness, etc. etc. all lead to a change in contact point feel.

And they are correct. If you however adjust the contact adjuster clockwise you can close off the timing port holes, effectively making the brake a closed system, proven when you can't push fluid through the system. The experiences on this forum show others having turned the contact adjust too far and caused the above issue. I experimented on the last set I installed and yep, You can close the timing port holes and then turn it counterclockwise to get the fluid to flow through again. And yes, the caliper pistons adjust for pad wear by design, a fundamental of disc...

The answer is yes. Signed, one who got curious and had to try it out and see.

The screw is tightened to max already from factory, what many of us tried is this Page 11, but it doesn't work, the dead throw in dominions is part of the brake and cant be altered.

Not to sound pedantic, but you'll be surprised at how many times this exact situ has been discussed in this thread. The contact/bite point adjust moves the piston position in the bore and if dialed in too much can cause the primary cup seal to pass over the timing ports, effectively closing the brake system. NBD, and lessons learned.

Just get the whole Radic brake set and don't bother messing about with the Maven bits. They work so well as they are and don't require any piston massaging or other faff... 😜🙃

Yeah omakacycle does all sorts of fun brake experiments on IG. He claims short lever throw on that combo but I don't buy it. I haven't used the radic lever but it should be quite similar to the TRP lever. They are both axial cylinder, 9mm master cylinder, and have long levers for plenty of mechanical leverage. I believe radic achieves the minimal dead stroke their brakes are known for primarily through caliper piston seals that retract very little. They also use 2.3mm rotors, which IME seem to run more true than thinner rotors, leading to less pad rub and...

I'm here to nerd out on brakes ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

I ran both a fair bit and I do not like the levers far out. I kept the Intends and sold the Maximas. IMO the power provided by the Maximas is overrated. Yes, it's there, but you have to run the levers pretty far out to get it and that kinda defeats the point for me, anyway. If you look at photos in reviews, everyone running them has the lever out into space. The Intends give me more usable, available power without a long lever stroke. I don't like braided lines, either, and the Intends are easier to disconnect/move between...