Nerding out on Brakes shall we? Not another tech deraliment

segamethod wrote:

It is wild to me that the majority of discussion in this thread continues to be around the 8-year-old Hayes Dominion. For the record, I own...

It is wild to me that the majority of discussion in this thread continues to be around the 8-year-old Hayes Dominion. For the record, I own three sets.

Placek wrote:

Forwarding what I got from HAYES."The internet is not correct here.  In that, Dominion is setup at assembly with ZERO dead stroke - and you cannot...

Forwarding what I got from HAYES.

"The internet is not correct here.  In that, Dominion is setup at assembly with ZERO dead stroke - and you cannot adjust this to have less than none.
 Effectively you'll block the timing port and the brakes will not be able to be bled or function properly.
 The pistons advance as pads wear, all disc brakes should function this way - just like on an automobile. 
 You can back this adjustment out to have more lever pull - or some deadstroke."

I may not follow correctly , but it sounds like bite point adjuster is not taking any role? Read also somewhere that this is factory set and shouldn't be moved ?

 

HexonJuan wrote:

 In the above picture, you can see the pushrod, which is used to adjust the bite point. Clockwise advances the piston in the bore, counterclockwise retreats...

 

In the above picture, you can see the pushrod, which is used to adjust the bite point. Clockwise advances the piston in the bore, counterclockwise retreats it. Adjust it too much and the seal on the piston can block off the timing port hole, circled in red, effectively closing the brake off. Hayes made much about setting this gap between seal and port holes as minimum as possible from the factory and recommend against mucking around with it. Bite point adjustment does nothing to the caliper pistons' location. That is designed into the seal and seal seat interface and cannot be adjusted by any dial or screw. So yep, everything they said is correct. Sounds like you maybe weren't familiar with the terminology, so here's hoping the cutaway sheds some light on things.

 

hairybarnyard wrote:

There is a really simple solution to minimising lever throw and not blocking off the timing port - adjust the bite point/pushrod with the bleed syringes...

There is a really simple solution to minimising lever throw and not blocking off the timing port - adjust the bite point/pushrod with the bleed syringes connected and make sure fluid still goes from lever to caliper. It takes a bit of trial and error but its foolproof.

hairybarnyard wrote:

There is a really simple solution to minimising lever throw and not blocking off the timing port - adjust the bite point/pushrod with the bleed syringes...

There is a really simple solution to minimising lever throw and not blocking off the timing port - adjust the bite point/pushrod with the bleed syringes connected and make sure fluid still goes from lever to caliper. It takes a bit of trial and error but its foolproof.

Placek wrote:

How about bite point screw at that moment - should it be full "-" like from factory or it doesn't matter ?

Placek wrote:

What I didTurned push-rod almost fully clockwise  - as shown on this topic to eliminate dead stroke movement.Here I should be safe as only moving counterclockwise...

What I did

Turned push-rod almost fully clockwise  - as shown on this topic to eliminate dead stroke movement.Here I should be safe as only moving counterclockwise too much could move piston too much and block the timing port - this is my understanding

and here is what I don't understand:

Official Avid stream describes that user can play with bite point adjust screw to eliminate the free pad movement. It's full to "-" by factory but if we want we can turn it more towards "+" to quicker engage pads to rotor.

So we have one unofficial way (turning push rod clockwise) and second way by using the screw ?