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There is a really simple solution to minimising lever throw and not blocking off the timing port - adjust the bite point/pushrod with the bleed syringes connected and make sure fluid still goes from lever to caliper. It takes a bit of trial and error but its foolproof.
People gotta tinker.
What I did
Turned push-rod almost fully clockwise - as shown on this topic to eliminate dead stroke movement.Here I should be safe as only moving counterclockwise too much could move piston too much and block the timing port - this is my understanding
and here is what I don't understand:
Official Avid stream describes that user can play with bite point adjust screw to eliminate the free pad movement. It's full to "-" by factory but if we want we can turn it more towards "+" to quicker engage pads to rotor.
So we have one unofficial way (turning push rod clockwise) and second way by using the screw ?
How about bite point screw at that moment - should it be full "-" like from factory or it doesn't matter ?
I would bottom the screw out at that point to stop you being able to adjust past it in future. I can't remember if that's at the - or + direction.
It probably doesn't matter if you won't ever adjust it again.
What other screw are you referring to?
Just following up on this post/question. I now have 3 rides on this setup, the first one didn't count because in typical sram/maxima mineral oil bleed challenges, I developed some soft levers half way through the ride.
At any rate I am really happy with how these brakes turned out. The combo of the maven base master cylinders and the db8 brakes are honestly perfect for a trail brake. These have a lot more power than codes and the combination with the direct link maven base master cylinder makes for a very light lever feel but a nice ramp up into the power. I would say that they are about 25-30% more powerful then a code/motiv and have a lighter lever feel then a code rsc. The deadband isn't quite as light as the maven base (or a motiv) but that's because they have far less deadband then the maven base setup.
Honestly I prefer these to both motivs and codes. I would go as far as saying that for a trail bike, I honestly prefer these over the maven base as it's easier to feel where the pads are contacting the rotor within the deadband. Top it all off with the fact that they are lighter then mavens is a bonus for a trail bike application. If you have db8's or motivs and you're wanting more power... I would suggest getting yourself some maven base master cyl/levers and putting those on.
Does anyone have any experience on the new semi metallic pad from TRP compared to the old metallic ones? And how they would compare to something like the Shimano metallic? I need to replace the pads in a set of Shimanos and am thinking of trying them since they fit.
When I turned that fully "-" as google suggest than I was not able to bleed. 3 turns toward the "+" opened the channel and fluid could move.
The one commented in red.
In that case set it as far as it goes in the "-" direction when you've confirmed your pushrod adjustment isn't blocking the port at that point
Post a reply to: Nerding out on Brakes shall we? Not another tech deraliment