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I don't look forward to 5-7 years of riding shitty tires until Maxxis releases a MaxxGrip Assegai in 32" sizing haha. I still have PTSD from the early 29er days.

No need to split the tube, just go lower

Just imagine the cable routing potential!

I'm waiting for Deity to offer $100,000 to the first elite XC racer to win a WC running 80mm rise bars upside down.

Anyone remember the short head tubes when 29ers first came out? Most XC racers are setting up their bikes to fit like a road bike.. Because watts are more important on the climbs...

Absolutely horrific. Scott will love it. Can't wait for a new steerer standard to solve the issue of the taper getting in the way of the stem.

SOLUTION: handlebars that mount to the crowns! Just make sure you wear a full face

you're all helping them figure out 32" way too much with these suggestions 🤣

I'm just spitballing here, but one of the limiting dimensions that does not help gain wheel size or suspension travel is headtube length. What if for 32" bikes, the head tube was split, in which case it only needs to house a bearing on each end, and the stem attached in between? Scott does so much integration hell already that I'd bet they'd be into this.

We did that to one of the sales guys. One in the bar, one in each bar end (it was the early 90s), and one in the stem. By his 3rd trip back to remove the offending bearings he was very much none too pleased.

2 mistakes stand out for me, mostly because they were quite painful. 1. Working on an old beater mtb w a seized fork. Took the top cap off and looked down the stantion and see a bunch of rust at the bottom of the coil spring. I try penetrating oil and persuasive strikes to no avail. So I try compressing the fork while the top cap was off... well, thats right when the spring breaks away from the rust, shoots up and hits me in the face and the goes on to break the CFL tube lights in the garage...

re: stack height - i'd wager fork travel lengths get reduced to help.

Those frames were made of paper, that's why that bike weighed 30lbs, I've seen more of those frames cracked on the downtube at the BB junction than any other frame ever, Yeti was good with the warranty but that was by far from a "burly" bike. My 2014 slash weights 30lbs, thankfully its carbon, as its been repaired more times than I would like to admit. That Talas fork was a boat anchor, with the tapered steerer it weighed 2.9kg, my 180mm RFX38m.2 weights 2.3kg, lighter than the straight steerer 36 talas which was 2.45kg. Bikes from that era either...

We tested Crankbrothers new Synthesis Enduro Alloy 2.0 wheels that launched today and were super impressed by how stout and durable they were. Our tester Mikey has broken every wheel I've ever seen him ride, and these wheels have made it just about 4 months completely unscathed. Which honestly speaks more to their durability than Commencal/Muc-Off racing with them 😂 They're sold as individual wheels, but complete sets retail for $700 (CB hubs) and $900 (i9 hubs), and the rims carry a lifetime warranty—a first for Crankbrothers on alloy rims. There is also a DH/e-MTB model. https://www.vitalmtb.com/product/guide/wheelsets/crankbrothers/synthesi… Highlights - Reinforced...

If you add a dab of grease to the bearing the bike will leave the shop silent only to shake loose at the optimal time for max annoyance. Don’t ask me how I know.

I work at a shop owned by two brothers. Years ago, one of them was helping the other get an xc race bike ready, and they put a ball bearing in the bar threw the grips on with bar end caps and handed it back. Other brother tore the bike all the way apart trying to find the noise. 6 hours later he found a ball bearing in the bar.