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If a tire rolls slower in a straight line but because it grips better it rolls faster in a corner, what is that tire? Slow or fast? Or same with over roots/rocks? I think this speaks to why some view the drum test as invalid bc it really doesn't represent how varying terrain affects rolling resistance.

Mountain bikes really are so damned cool ….but we are trying to also have a good time, get a good workout and still feel flowy luxurious highs , so of course we are gonna find fit issues. Iam very sensitive to reach. And before that it was top tube length and seat angle, over the years I’ve had some success ignoring other parameters but as you and others stated, it’s all just so very connected. So I’m particular about reach and stack and seat angle and BB hight or drop now,- for my stature and expected comfort doing cardio for...

I wonder what’s the smallest battery you could put in this thing to handle shifting and overcome drag without actually adding any assist. It’d be sick to have a 750Wh removable battery and a 50Wh integrated battery for travel/bike park/regular riding

BEATS having a REAL job.

I think some of it has to do with both the sport and its participants aging. When I first started riding in the late 90's, I didn't know anything about geometry. I based my bike preferences around what I saw in Mountain Bike Action and on the racks at my LBS. When looking at spec's of a bike, I usually looked at what fork it had and what "level" rear derailleur. Does anyone remember the days when bike brands would spec a bike with a rear derailleur that was 1 level higher than the rest of the drivetrain? There must...

So I have some feedback on the 120mm rise handlebar (10º backsweep, 5º upsweep). I ran it with the same setback of 35mm (straight line though the middle of the ends of the handlebar to middle of stem) which I was running on my 90mm rise handlebar. I run a -10mm stem. I increased my rear spring rate up to 325lbs from the 300lbs and backed off my low and high speed compression by 4 clicks (one click from fully open) on my fork. I also added one 1psi to my rear tyre. So soften the front and stiffen the...

I know they had a pretty good warranty program for the Switch Infinite sliders - what's their policy for all the bearings in the 6finity links? Can you convert between the MT & LT? Any off-menu/Lunch Ride builds possible for them (specifically the MT)? 150/160 is my sweet spot, which is between the MT & LT. Mullet options? What's max seat post insertion depth for each size?

Sixfinity is the number of zeros in the price tag right?

Yeti Sixfinity enduro bike from la thuile pits here - https://www.vitalmtb.com/forums/hub/yeti-sixfinity-enduro-bike-spotted-… (in its own thread as to not disturb efficiency discussions : )

Because they consume 2+ % more of your wattage, and that only gets worse the worse your chain maintenance gets! In addition, the idler produces more noise and potentially a rougher feel when pedaling, which can create a greater than 2% change in a subjective sense. Those losses are from chain link articulation on the highly tensioned top run of the chain: https://www.pinkbike.com/news/tested-how-much-slower-are-idler-bikes-wh… If you find evidence that electronic suspension will provide 2% gains, then it could offset the idler losses, when compared to a non idler/non electronic suspension bike, but you would still be 2% behind a non idler...

Losses from bearings are extremely minimal and not noticeable. ~0.1w. The losses in an idler bike are coming from forcing the chain to articulate under tension. Most mtb riders probably have somewhere between 5-10+% loss from the drivetrain (chain). Those losses come from making the chain articulate under load via internal chain friction. Forcing that extra loaded articulation I would expect losses to increase by 30-50%. So your typical dirty oiled mtb chain goes from losing 20w to 30w at 200w chill pedaling load and only gets worse from there. 5w increases are generally considered noticeable. The only thing you...

In a regular bike you have one big bearing for the crank. Using an idler wheel means you have a second mounting point including additional bearings that have a certain resistance when spinning. So the resistance from bearings is roughly doubled compared to a non-idler-bike. I really don't see how an electronic suspension could improve this.

Are all of you guys really flipping your climb switch multiple times per ride? If we really, really want electronic suspension, why not just a simple solenid that flips your suspension closed when your power meter hits a configurable threshold, with nothing else? That could be $100.

I've got a Supreme v4 with 80mm Deity bars that I borrowed from another bike to test with. Did 12 park days so far and it feels amazing. A set of these will probably end up on the bike. Really hard to beat for the money.

Is it just me or do DH casing Conti Kryptotals last 5x longer than Maxxis in the bike park? I'm currently on 20+ park days and these tires still have life in them. I don't think I'll ever buy another Maxxis tire.

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mqOoXIL No servowave, but have been faultless (2-3yrs) so far.