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I can't believe we don't have an online conversion kit for reg posts using a servo that pulls the cable at the bottom of the post from anyone. Archer would have set the world on fire with that instead of half mechanical shifting.

Ok I'll try bring this convo over here and reply to this comment- I really hate to derail this conversation but I must talk about those maven cups. I've always been a fan of the Shimano overnight cup bleed rubber band thing and I thought these cups would help me do the same things to my mavens. Needless to say, it did not work, in fact it made my mavens feel terrible. So I've never used them again and suck with syringes. I think having a bit of positive pressure in the system and "overfilling" it a bit by pushing...

Hey, give SC some credit. They might even put in the effort to create some altered linkages — maybe even a new rear triangle if they’re especially motivated.

long time reader first time poster here.. friends of mine are developing an vacuum bleeder for shocks and fork dampers to fully service your suspension at home, without the need of messy handbleeding. I just got the chance to try the machine myself and it works pretty straight forward. I thought i spread the word in here because i think this is a pretty cool innovation in the mtb tech for home mechanics/ race day applications etc. https://www.futureliteindustries.com/

Let's not forget they operate from Andorra which is quite a good place tax-wise for individuals or companies. 10% on income for residents and companies , no sales tax, but there is a 4.5% VAT, there is no inheritance, estate or transfer tax and no tax is paid on Andorran investment income.

Hopefully you've all been being careful when performing maintenance on your brakes, but a couple new studies just dropped reinforcing that inhaling brake dust is bad, mmmkay. No types of dust were good for you, but interestingly one study showed that metallics were less damaging than organics when exposing lung tissue to dust. Either way, I'd encourage everyone to clean their stuff using a wet method to avoid dust generation, and ideally catch the majority of the liquid in a garbage can for proper disposal, because if you just let it dry on the floor of your workshop it can...

What you're describing is galling. A situation where a like-for-like metal will basically weld itself in the threads. Some metals are more susceptible to this than others. You can see the effect here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R54spcBn-Sk Or here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mHAhfX7iRjs Or here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jlDUqf-1XsM The point is, galling is not relevant to brakes. Unless you're trying to use brake pads that are a billet of the same stainless steel that's used for the rotors. Then maybe.

troy brosnan's cockpit from cannonball w/ flight attendant on fork and left hand pod for what would assumed be suspension control? what's up w/ the brake levers too? video here https://www.vitalmtb.com/forums/hub/2025-race-talk?page=18#comment-5789…

Story time. Ages ago, a good customer at the shop I worked at picked up some fancy aluminum Italian road frame and at the same time a brand new Phil Wood bottom bracket to go with it. He installs it and torques to spec (he was a highly competent home mech and used us when the WTF quotient got outta hand) and goes to tweak the chainline some and lo n behold, bottom bracket is frozen solid. Keep in mind, this is brand new, hasn't had the wheels installed yet much less been on a ride. We're contemplating the hows...

We get messages at least once a month from someone in the desert Southwest who's pissed that we no longer make the Chronicle. I could never get along with plus tires. If I ran the pressures low enough to get a benefit in traction then the tire would fold and roll like crazy even in mellow corners. With enough pressure to provide cornering support, I was getting bounced all over the trail. For me, plus tires offered only downsides. I'm glad they were a relatively short lived fad in our fad obsessed industry.

looks like i'm buying a sander....

Orbital sander + 120 grit pad 20-30 seconds on each side x2 using medium pressure. This is how I prep my rotors when changing pad compounds/brands. I even do this when changing pads to fresh ones. Never let me down.

I heard rumors that they were doing some sketchy stuff, in the end, to stay in business, which is unfortunate. I too was a grom that thought Wrench Science was sick. In regards to Outside- this is why i now pay for Escape Collective(which has a lot of the old cycling tips folks). The media landscape has changed and for the amount of media i consume, I want it to be good well-written content. I boycott outside as much as I can. Sent them a nasty email once Trailforks was purchased. Outside is just a data company now; they no...

@Eoin @Jakub_G: there was air in the lowers. After letting out all the air and then pressing the bleed ports (while slightly pressing on the crown) the fork finally reached full travel 😄 You guys were right.

The warranty is lifetime of the product for the original owner. The problem I have with this is how is the lifetime of the product defined? One could argue that it is the fatigue life of the material for normal use in which case it completely depends on what criteria Pivot design the bikes to. Personally, I find lifetime warranties for the original owner a bit of a marketing gimmick and would much rather have a fixed 5-10 year, transferable warranty so it's completely clear and the next owner also has some cover.

Regarding the position of the STFU: A length of material spanning a distance at tension will have a resonant frequency. Cutting it right in half with something that would contact the material can cause it to resonate faster at the same velocity on both sides of that contact because that contact essentially creates a point around which the whipping motion can pivot. Guitar strings do it. Wires stretched across distance at tension do it. There are multiple potential resonant frequencies along the length of the material and creating a pivot by limiting motion at one point can cause that material...

This is a good point - the main reason I see people not getting travel is simply friction from the bushings! A 5wt oil might be OK in this specific application, because the bushings are so long that if the clearance is tight it can suit a lighter oil, which will be better at high speeds where a thick oil can create measurable drag. Its a combination of stanchion diameter + bushing length + clearance that determines the ideal viscosity. I usually find the stock dynamic "light" lube @ 50cSt is a really good balance for most forks but if...

regarding Jackson's STFU placement... I find that exact spot is where SC VPP bikes get noisy. With the way the rear triangles are shaped, the chainstay drops down in relation to the lower link pivot, that drop section of the chianstay gets closer and closer to the chain as the suspension cycles. In general, my MT1, MT2, Nomad 6, HT2 have all made noise when the chain slaps that drop section of the chainstay. They are otherwise silent bikes... unfortunately, only making ALOT of noise when hammering through chunder and twanging the un-tensioned side of the chain.

I was thinking about Benoit running the lower tensioner but couldn't find a pic, thanks for posting. Seems like he has been focused on reducing chain movement and noise for a while, possibly because he has previously ridden a belt drive bike and enjoys the silence. Both solutions look good and I think reducing movement on the lower chain is a good move.