All

Guy is already lowballing before release lmao

Eagle derailleur was feeling left out - so I made a thing - replaces the washer on a standard UDH dropout with a "Brace" that links the rear derailleur for strength and stiffness.

Definitely not. A lot of people I know do the opposite of that and close the rebound knob entirely. Think of the suspension fork on your new dirt jumper as a $700 rigid fork with expensive inside bits that sort of move a little when you overshoot a jump to flat and would have otherwise broken your wrists.

Increase pressure until it does not move much, slow the rebound to make it move less, and increase the low speed compression to make sure it does not move more. Now forget about it for about five years and you have successfully setup a DJ fork.

The way to think about "how much travel you need" is how much you need to pump on your rides. People talk a lot about climbing, but in most scenarios more or less suspension travel doesn't make a huge difference in climbing performance (ceteris paribus). What is noticeable is pumping up and down on your bike to accelerate like you would on a pumptrack. People on rough and steep trails tend to let the bike do more of the work, whereas riders on lower speed, flatter, or rolling terrain tend to use a lot more body english on the bike...

I don't know why but the inverted Push fork is a real thorn in my ass--the overly vague details and utter lack of showcasing *any* performance data (to indicate value over traditional mtb fork designs) is what really twists my nipples about the whole thing. Here's the spec. scoop (w/picture evidence) on the USD Push fork; -37mm or 38mm stanchion tubes -50mm upper tubes -15mm axle (20mm may have created lower leg stiffness issues causing less favorable flex patterns--or the 15mm axle is actually a performance hinderance that's truly meant to soothe the 'main stream' retarded-guy consumer, lets be honest...

Why would you put a dampener in there, who wants the fork to get wet?

Hi All! For the past year or so, i have also been working on my own MTB telemetry system, very similar to alek-91's idea. I had incorporated the VL53L4CD sensor onto a PCB, which also contains a BLE module and PIC to act as the "master" microcontroller. The PCB design was pretty interesting, trying to fit as much (and minimal) components as possible onto the board. I've currently had some assistance with developing a mobile application to view, download and analyse the data, so feel i'm not quite there in terms of analysing the results, but its been interesting so...

It’s not that trigonometry is beyond the abilities of mountain bikers (other than maybe the youngest among us), but for whatever reason these conversations are mired in numbers that don’t really tell you what they look like they tell you. Whether you care about where your grips end up in space relative to the bottom bracket or the steer tube or the front axle or the saddle, none of numbers most easy to grab and post online (e.g. stem lengths, bar rises) get you there. And the numbers themselves (“45 mm”) can be freighted with all sorts of riders’ personal...

Hello @az2au, thanks for your comments! I noticed just now this thread and it looks very interesting! About the BYB Telemetry system, I can give some tips on the software here (in random order): - When looking at the distribution charts you can always click "hide zeros" to get a better view of the lines. More than that, I'd recommend clicking on the "enlarge" button that will open the chart in a new dialog (with totally customizable zoom). - Switch a lot between "lines", "dots" and "histograms" visualizations to get the best out of any chart. - Use the comparison...

Great to see Enrico posting here. FWIW, he's answered every question I've sent him via email by the next day and always offered me additional support. BYB is a great product that is very fun to play with (normal people edition) but having Enrico back it with his time and replies just makes it even better.

Not entirely. One biiiig thing I see is being able to program your lever stroke. I hate shimano brakes due to 99% of the stroke feeling dead then that last 1% is like full lock up it seems. Im not someone who can utilize this. I like to feel a good curve of power. Afterall a good brake should not stop you, but slow you down precisely so youre faster. At least that is my belief.

I think it makes sense that the pinkbike article skated around the issue of generated heat because 1) the article is filler for the slow news northern hemisphere off season — here’s the same article from Bike Rumor from 2018! https://bikerumor.com/suspension-tech-how-do-temperature-changes-affect… 2) because the entire mis-use of the gas law in this context gets too complicated to support the article’s contention when Twarm and Tcold aren’t set unchanging at whatever arbitrary ambient air temps the author has chosen to illustrate the change in P. Suddenly you don’t ‘know’ delta T and good luck with that equation you built the article...

Well, the other website had a "nerding out" article that definitely felt at least inspired by our conversation here. I understand this isn't exactly a novel topic, but it's still flattering nonetheless. One of the common refrains I saw in the comments multiple times is that "Maxxis rubber hardens a lot in the cold. As does Michelin. While Conti, Schwalbe and Specialized rubber doesn’t change as much." I think this could be a valuable topic to explore.

https://www.instagram.com/p/C0UuYEBt1gN/

Take this with a grain of salt because this is a generic spring curve I came up with for an air can. To make the impact of leverage ratio very apparent, this is comparing a 170mm bike that is 30% progressive to a 170mm bike that is 60% progressive. The 30% line happens to be a V2 Megatower. The 60% line is a crazy progressive V2 Megatower. In all cases I am comparing a set up with equal amounts of sag. To be clear that would be crap because the spike at end of travel is unreasonable, but the exaggerated...

So, I believe the tire in question, which has a tread compound that never recovers from freezing temperature, is either the ADVAN A048 or ADVAN A055. These are both Yokohama tires, and nothing in the marketing blurb mentions this, probably because it's a clear product detriment, and marketers try to stick to benefits. Yokohama does not make mountain bike tires, as everybody here is well aware of. But back when I was in the industry, about eight years ago, the talk about town was that the industry was at parity, meaning that there was no technology one company had that...

I've been calling regular bikes "Naturally asperated" for a couple years but it hasn't caught on yet.

Can we please call them "MuscleBikes"? That is what they are called in Spain (and maybe other countries)