If you're not Ali/Amazon/ebay averse there are a number of options that fall under the 'good syringes, under $100' requirement. I've one from RiderAce for mineral...
If you're not Ali/Amazon/ebay averse there are a number of options that fall under the 'good syringes, under $100' requirement. I've one from RiderAce for mineral oil brakes that's been perfectly fine in use that was maybe $30 or so when I got it. As with all bleed kits, the best thing you can do for em longevity wise is give them a clean after use. Flush with water then spray down with isopropyl and let em dry after.
Wait, wait, wait... did you suggest washing out brake syringes with water? This is the first time I've heard of that suggestion. Is that for mineral oil only, or for DOT fluid too? Can other people jump in here to confirm or deny?
If water works as a first step, and if it's kosher to mix water with the residual brake fluid during the cleaning process, it would be great news for me. I've always done isopropyl and nothing else, but it's always felt like a quick way to burn through Isopropyl and because I'm not blasting whole bottles worth of isopropyl through the syringe I can never quite sure that I got all the old brake fluid out.
That makes no sense at all. There are 6mm hex bolts on my bike that range from 5nm to 20nm torque spec. By your logic either...
That makes no sense at all. There are 6mm hex bolts on my bike that range from 5nm to 20nm torque spec. By your logic either my shock would fall out or my front wheel axle would be crushed.
Just because that is what is on your bike, does not mean it's well designed, some of these fixings/torque values are probably not the appropriate choice...
Just because that is what is on your bike, does not mean it's well designed, some of these fixings/torque values are probably not the appropriate choice. In your example.the thread size is completely different between the two fixings though, so I would expect a different torque. Ideally this would be with a different tool size also.
There is a great book called The design of everyday things, by Don Norman that I would recommend reading on the subject.
I'm a huge fan of DOET by Dan Norman, and tell people about it all the time. I think I read that whole book in two days. I hurt my neck from nodding along in agreement as I was reading.
If you're not Ali/Amazon/ebay averse there are a number of options that fall under the 'good syringes, under $100' requirement. I've one from RiderAce for mineral...
If you're not Ali/Amazon/ebay averse there are a number of options that fall under the 'good syringes, under $100' requirement. I've one from RiderAce for mineral oil brakes that's been perfectly fine in use that was maybe $30 or so when I got it. As with all bleed kits, the best thing you can do for em longevity wise is give them a clean after use. Flush with water then spray down with isopropyl and let em dry after.
Wait, wait, wait... did you suggest washing out brake syringes with water? This is the first time I've heard of that suggestion. Is that for mineral...
Wait, wait, wait... did you suggest washing out brake syringes with water? This is the first time I've heard of that suggestion. Is that for mineral oil only, or for DOT fluid too? Can other people jump in here to confirm or deny?
If water works as a first step, and if it's kosher to mix water with the residual brake fluid during the cleaning process, it would be great news for me. I've always done isopropyl and nothing else, but it's always felt like a quick way to burn through Isopropyl and because I'm not blasting whole bottles worth of isopropyl through the syringe I can never quite sure that I got all the old brake fluid out.
Yes to both. I rinse with water first, follow up with a couple squirts of iso, then let em dry while disassembled. If I'm feeling frisky I'll blast em with the compressor. I got to thinking about it as one of my original mineral oil kits had a seal swell up, which was a bummer since I paid for the 'factory approved kit', i.e. way too much for a couple fittings and a cheap syringe..... I'd been doing this with my DOT kit for years and decided if it was good enough for granddad it was good enough for the mineral oil kit. Been two years plus and the seals haven't degraded.
For my DOT brakes I have a water filled spray bottle (same one I use for ride wrap). Since DOT is hygroscopic, you really don't need anything more that water to do a thorough cleanup. Once in a while I also rinse the syringes with the same spray bottle and throw the water as hazardous waste.
For my mineral fluid brakes I clean up using a Iso 70% spray bottle. I don't use 99% because it evaporates too quickly. Water and mineral/oil are immiscible hence a solvent is needed.
If you're not Ali/Amazon/ebay averse there are a number of options that fall under the 'good syringes, under $100' requirement. I've one from RiderAce for mineral...
If you're not Ali/Amazon/ebay averse there are a number of options that fall under the 'good syringes, under $100' requirement. I've one from RiderAce for mineral oil brakes that's been perfectly fine in use that was maybe $30 or so when I got it. As with all bleed kits, the best thing you can do for em longevity wise is give them a clean after use. Flush with water then spray down with isopropyl and let em dry after.
Wait, wait, wait... did you suggest washing out brake syringes with water? This is the first time I've heard of that suggestion. Is that for mineral...
Wait, wait, wait... did you suggest washing out brake syringes with water? This is the first time I've heard of that suggestion. Is that for mineral oil only, or for DOT fluid too? Can other people jump in here to confirm or deny?
If water works as a first step, and if it's kosher to mix water with the residual brake fluid during the cleaning process, it would be great news for me. I've always done isopropyl and nothing else, but it's always felt like a quick way to burn through Isopropyl and because I'm not blasting whole bottles worth of isopropyl through the syringe I can never quite sure that I got all the old brake fluid out.
I rinse my DOT kit w/ water, shake as much out as I can and then flush w/ IPA and let everything dry, for mineral oil I disassemble, let everything drain as much as possible, then flush w/ IPA.
I rinse my DOT kit w/ water, shake as much out as I can and then flush w/ IPA and let everything dry, for mineral oil...
I rinse my DOT kit w/ water, shake as much out as I can and then flush w/ IPA and let everything dry, for mineral oil I disassemble, let everything drain as much as possible, then flush w/ IPA.
Been doing it that way for years...
IPA? That IMO is the best use case scenario for an IPA!🤣
I rinse my DOT kit w/ water, shake as much out as I can and then flush w/ IPA and let everything dry, for mineral oil...
I rinse my DOT kit w/ water, shake as much out as I can and then flush w/ IPA and let everything dry, for mineral oil I disassemble, let everything drain as much as possible, then flush w/ IPA.
Speaking of syringes, this $4.50 turkey flavoring grocery store special has similar hardware/interface to the $100+ SRAM kits, gladly accepting their attachments, as pictured. No idea if it actually works for a bleeding job or if one could pull any useful vacuum with it.
Speaking of syringes, this $4.50 turkey flavoring grocery store special has similar hardware/interface to the $100+ SRAM kits, gladly accepting their attachments, as pictured. No idea...
Speaking of syringes, this $4.50 turkey flavoring grocery store special has similar hardware/interface to the $100+ SRAM kits, gladly accepting their attachments, as pictured. No idea if it actually works for a bleeding job or if one could pull any useful vacuum with it.
I have one of those red ones and some identical yellow ones that came with an EZMTB kit. They are really good and rebuildable if needed. I've used them for Shimano, Magura and Hope systems for years. Never used them on a brake which requires Millibar level vacuum but they've never 'burped' in normal use.
I got them off aliexpress. I don't like the luer lock interface, I think it can leak air under a vacuum, so I'd really prefer to use some pneumatic compression fittings to make it work properly. I just can't seem to figure out what the thread on the syringe is.
That and the thread is straight into plastic and torquing the fitting down too much cracks the syringe.
They are quite nice though, fairly thick which makes them resist leaking fairly well as opposed to waker and thinner syringes, like original Rock Shox ones (used for suspension servicing). Those leak oil past the plunger just pushing it into fork lowers after a few years.
He’s in Italy. I’ve bought a few levers for my bikes from him through eBay - https://ebay.us/m/xNqwvo - highly recommended.
Thanks for the suggestion! Ordered a pair. I saw in the instructions that the little dial isn't refitted for the reach adjustment, could you confirm this?
I got them off aliexpress. I don't like the luer lock interface, I think it can leak air under a vacuum, so I'd really prefer to...
I got them off aliexpress. I don't like the luer lock interface, I think it can leak air under a vacuum, so I'd really prefer to use some pneumatic compression fittings to make it work properly. I just can't seem to figure out what the thread on the syringe is.
That and the thread is straight into plastic and torquing the fitting down too much cracks the syringe.
They are quite nice though, fairly thick which makes them resist leaking fairly well as opposed to waker and thinner syringes, like original Rock Shox ones (used for suspension servicing). Those leak oil past the plunger just pushing it into fork lowers after a few years.
The 3 syringes i have (2x Yellow EZMTB & 1x Red as pictured) all have a female 6mm metric o'ring sealed fitting. Its a brass insert that you can easily convert to hydraulic or pneumatic fittings if you wish. Its even compatible directly with a banjo fitting/bolt from a brake caliper.
The ones I have I measured the corresponding fitting'S in the thread and even using metric and imperial thread rakes I can't figure out the type and pitch. The diameter is also somewhere in between everything, a metric screw doesn't fit, etc.
Converting to a hydraulic fitting isn't needed if you mean changing the thread, I'd screw in a standard M6 compression fitting and be done with it.
Thanks for the suggestion! Ordered a pair. I saw in the instructions that the little dial isn't refitted for the reach adjustment, could you confirm this?
He was doing some tweaks to the design, but on mine no, you couldn’t refit the reach knob. It works fine with a long all key in the reach screw head though - think it’s 2.5mm from memory.
God I hate needing three or four different tools to install one component. the 10 speed era shimano brakes were the worst. How did it go...
God I hate needing three or four different tools to install one component. the 10 speed era shimano brakes were the worst. How did it go? 2mm to pop the stupid latch for the lever clamp open, 2.5mm for the bleed port in the lever, 3mm for the brake pads, 4mm for the lever clamp, 5mm for the caliper bolts? Something like that.
Edit: Oh yeah, plus a T25 for the damn rotor bolts.
Dont forget a T15 for the stupid rotor bolts on the Shimano Centerlock 6 Bolt Rotor Adaptor... 🙃
Speaking of syringes, this $4.50 turkey flavoring grocery store special has similar hardware/interface to the $100+ SRAM kits, gladly accepting their attachments, as pictured. No idea...
Speaking of syringes, this $4.50 turkey flavoring grocery store special has similar hardware/interface to the $100+ SRAM kits, gladly accepting their attachments, as pictured. No idea if it actually works for a bleeding job or if one could pull any useful vacuum with it.
I get all my syringes from ali express and recently picked up a few of these ones - the turkey basting needles were novel and can be used for squirting grease inside things but I don't think I'll actually use those too much. Mine came with a little bottle brush thats perfect for cleaning callipers too. I've always found they work great and have an ancient syringe that still seals (just - I think I had to replace the piston seal recently) under a huge vacuum. Only issue with these new ones is the numbers aren't etched on so will probably wear off
As for rinsing with water - I used to do this for dot syringes as it would prevent the rubber from swelling up. As long as they are FULLY dry it should be ok, but these days I basically just buy bulk packets of syringes and run them until the seals stop working
I also share this opinion, and I know not what rattle you speak of.
Yeah... what rattle?
I don't care either way (i.e. hub interface isn't a deal-breaker) but as far as I'm concerned centrelock hubs are universal. Got a six bolt rotor? Use an adaptor.
Yeah... what rattle?I don't care either way (i.e. hub interface isn't a deal-breaker) but as far as I'm concerned centrelock hubs are universal. Got a six...
Yeah... what rattle?
I don't care either way (i.e. hub interface isn't a deal-breaker) but as far as I'm concerned centrelock hubs are universal. Got a six bolt rotor? Use an adaptor.
Can't use an adapter reliably with anything more than a 180mm rotor in most cases. I like my 200s.
Well if nothing else having 6bolt hubs and rotors makes it easier to disassemble the bike and out it back together if you're traveling. If you have CL rotors you need to add three pieces of gear to the tool pack, with a 6 bolt you only need a T25 (which you likely already have in the pack).
Other than that having CL hubs is a non issue I'd say.
I recently dug out a GT iT1 from storage to go through it and check/grease/bleed everything etc. I had the idea in my head that i could grab a generic lockring tool to remove the discs. It turns out that because they are 20mm Saint axles front and rear i needed to go buy another larger tool. Pain in the ass. Just give me 6 bolts.
I recently dug out a GT iT1 from storage to go through it and check/grease/bleed everything etc. I had the idea in my head that i...
I recently dug out a GT iT1 from storage to go through it and check/grease/bleed everything etc. I had the idea in my head that i could grab a generic lockring tool to remove the discs. It turns out that because they are 20mm Saint axles front and rear i needed to go buy another larger tool. Pain in the ass. Just give me 6 bolts.
I think it's the same interface as a Shimano hollow tech bottom bracket cup, if you have a BB socket/wrench it may work.
Wait, wait, wait... did you suggest washing out brake syringes with water? This is the first time I've heard of that suggestion. Is that for mineral oil only, or for DOT fluid too? Can other people jump in here to confirm or deny?
If water works as a first step, and if it's kosher to mix water with the residual brake fluid during the cleaning process, it would be great news for me. I've always done isopropyl and nothing else, but it's always felt like a quick way to burn through Isopropyl and because I'm not blasting whole bottles worth of isopropyl through the syringe I can never quite sure that I got all the old brake fluid out.
I'm a huge fan of DOET by Dan Norman, and tell people about it all the time. I think I read that whole book in two days. I hurt my neck from nodding along in agreement as I was reading.
Yes to both. I rinse with water first, follow up with a couple squirts of iso, then let em dry while disassembled. If I'm feeling frisky I'll blast em with the compressor. I got to thinking about it as one of my original mineral oil kits had a seal swell up, which was a bummer since I paid for the 'factory approved kit', i.e. way too much for a couple fittings and a cheap syringe..... I'd been doing this with my DOT kit for years and decided if it was good enough for granddad it was good enough for the mineral oil kit. Been two years plus and the seals haven't degraded.
For my DOT brakes I have a water filled spray bottle (same one I use for ride wrap). Since DOT is hygroscopic, you really don't need anything more that water to do a thorough cleanup. Once in a while I also rinse the syringes with the same spray bottle and throw the water as hazardous waste.
For my mineral fluid brakes I clean up using a Iso 70% spray bottle. I don't use 99% because it evaporates too quickly. Water and mineral/oil are immiscible hence a solvent is needed.
I rinse my DOT kit w/ water, shake as much out as I can and then flush w/ IPA and let everything dry, for mineral oil I disassemble, let everything drain as much as possible, then flush w/ IPA.
Been doing it that way for years...
IPA? That IMO is the best use case scenario for an IPA!🤣
Speaking of syringes, this $4.50 turkey flavoring grocery store special has similar hardware/interface to the $100+ SRAM kits, gladly accepting their attachments, as pictured. No idea if it actually works for a bleeding job or if one could pull any useful vacuum with it.
I have one of those red ones and some identical yellow ones that came with an EZMTB kit. They are really good and rebuildable if needed. I've used them for Shimano, Magura and Hope systems for years. Never used them on a brake which requires Millibar level vacuum but they've never 'burped' in normal use.
You can get the exact same syringes in e.g. vet supply stores too.
I got them off aliexpress. I don't like the luer lock interface, I think it can leak air under a vacuum, so I'd really prefer to use some pneumatic compression fittings to make it work properly. I just can't seem to figure out what the thread on the syringe is.
That and the thread is straight into plastic and torquing the fitting down too much cracks the syringe.
They are quite nice though, fairly thick which makes them resist leaking fairly well as opposed to waker and thinner syringes, like original Rock Shox ones (used for suspension servicing). Those leak oil past the plunger just pushing it into fork lowers after a few years.
Thanks for the suggestion! Ordered a pair. I saw in the instructions that the little dial isn't refitted for the reach adjustment, could you confirm this?
The 3 syringes i have (2x Yellow EZMTB & 1x Red as pictured) all have a female 6mm metric o'ring sealed fitting. Its a brass insert that you can easily convert to hydraulic or pneumatic fittings if you wish. Its even compatible directly with a banjo fitting/bolt from a brake caliper.
If you check out this link, they are the A type syringe. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005192030360.html
Great info, thanks.
The ones I have I measured the corresponding fitting'S in the thread and even using metric and imperial thread rakes I can't figure out the type and pitch. The diameter is also somewhere in between everything, a metric screw doesn't fit, etc.
Converting to a hydraulic fitting isn't needed if you mean changing the thread, I'd screw in a standard M6 compression fitting and be done with it.
He was doing some tweaks to the design, but on mine no, you couldn’t refit the reach knob. It works fine with a long all key in the reach screw head though - think it’s 2.5mm from memory.
Where did you find this picture of me?
Dont forget a T15 for the stupid rotor bolts on the Shimano Centerlock 6 Bolt Rotor Adaptor... 🙃
Unpopular opinion: I prefer center lock over the six bolt. The rattle doesn't bother me.
GET OUT
I get all my syringes from ali express and recently picked up a few of these ones - the turkey basting needles were novel and can be used for squirting grease inside things but I don't think I'll actually use those too much. Mine came with a little bottle brush thats perfect for cleaning callipers too. I've always found they work great and have an ancient syringe that still seals (just - I think I had to replace the piston seal recently) under a huge vacuum. Only issue with these new ones is the numbers aren't etched on so will probably wear off
As for rinsing with water - I used to do this for dot syringes as it would prevent the rubber from swelling up. As long as they are FULLY dry it should be ok, but these days I basically just buy bulk packets of syringes and run them until the seals stop working
I also share this opinion, and I know not what rattle you speak of.
Yeah... what rattle?
I don't care either way (i.e. hub interface isn't a deal-breaker) but as far as I'm concerned centrelock hubs are universal. Got a six bolt rotor? Use an adaptor.
Can't use an adapter reliably with anything more than a 180mm rotor in most cases. I like my 200s.
Why can't you?
So a CL-6B adaptor for a 223 wasn't a good idea then 😅
i used one with a 223, no issues.
Well if nothing else having 6bolt hubs and rotors makes it easier to disassemble the bike and out it back together if you're traveling. If you have CL rotors you need to add three pieces of gear to the tool pack, with a 6 bolt you only need a T25 (which you likely already have in the pack).
Other than that having CL hubs is a non issue I'd say.
I recently dug out a GT iT1 from storage to go through it and check/grease/bleed everything etc. I had the idea in my head that i could grab a generic lockring tool to remove the discs. It turns out that because they are 20mm Saint axles front and rear i needed to go buy another larger tool. Pain in the ass. Just give me 6 bolts.
I think it's the same interface as a Shimano hollow tech bottom bracket cup, if you have a BB socket/wrench it may work.
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