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The AXS T-type derailleurs absolutely do not play nice with old Eagle cassettes. There's physical interference long before you can even start worrying about shift quality.
You can actually do the inverse with brilliant results on most?? UDH bikes. T-type cassette, chain and ring with standard Eagle derailleur. Just takes 15 minutes grinding down an all-aluminum UDH hanger to clear the chain.
I'm doing this on my last-gen Norco optic with a GX Eage derailleur (Hall-lock mod as well). Friggin brilliant setup! Though now with mechanical T-type there will be something just as good from the factory.
I worked for a manufactured that where usually forced by its dealers to warantee rear cassettes with sub 200 milles, because the 11t cog started slipping. And that was even in hybrid style ebikes with a 42t chainring
Hi guys
Anyone have news (or rumors) about the possible next generation Transition Spire?
Saved this pic a ways back, no idea if it's the new one or if it's just a one off proto.
More pics of the SRAM Motive brake:
That certainly isn't my color palette, but similar to the Maven launch edition, I like seeing a company as large as SRAM do something unique with the launch of a new product - even if it's "just" a non-traditional color. Also, the Maven Ultimate Expert Kit (if you could get your hands on one at launch) was a really excellent deal considering how much it came with for basically the same price as just the brakes alone.
If only these were purple to match my current Sentinel accent color scheme... I'd be nervously waiting around with a credit card to replace my Code setup.
i hope they do the launch package deal like they did with the Mavens too, that was a killer deal.
Or Cog-ring, if you will.
The one nice thing about XD for big torquey boys and ebikes is the fact the system held up much better to torque than soft HG freehub bodies. Not only are you going to have to use the enforcer lever to get the damn lockring off, you'll probably have to employ the hammer to remove the cassette from the body after they've fused together through torque warping. The writeup says EMTB and aluminum freehub bodies so maybe they've put a sleeve or something in the mounting interface to prevent this?
Kinda funny that we've moved on from people wanting to replace the bigger rings in the cassette (like the original OneUp converter or some E13 options) as a product of spinning up climbs on non-electric MTBs on one by drivetrains to now the 10-14 being the replaceable side because presumably that's where you camp all the time on the ebike spinning at your top out of 32 km/hr. I don't think I've ever worn out that side of a cassette.
People park the chain on the 10T, put it in max boost and pedal at a 30rpm cadence. If you're not putting out much power super low cadence is comfortable.
What’s stopping you from getting some dominions or hope v4 in purple
This is why I get yelled at by customers at work because their month old full sus E-bike that they ride around the city is skipping in the small cog.
The other place has this wild design (3D printed steel)
I get the point is an engineering exercise, not bringing a product to market, but man the torque on those pivots, wild internal leverage ratios
You wouldn't spend any time in 10th with a 34 or 36, even more so with a 29er rear.
I have no use for above 20mph 98% of the time on my e-bike, but when you need it, you really need it. Jump lines being the best case, road transfers being the other situation. The fast jumps can be downright scary when your e-bike becomes this huge slow turd once crossing over 20 mph, right when you need it to not nose-dive.
I run a 32T front on my mid-power e-bike with a SRAM 11 Speed (10-42) with a mullet rear wheel, and here are some thoughts for you:
1) The gears are too close together and it's very common to have to shift 2x in immediate succession, with a mid-power and a 32T. For a full power, I'd absolutely want a 34T front chainring, just to spread out the gears.
2) Mostly, my gearing is fine, but there are occasions that I wish I had a lower gear than the 42/ 32 (1.31) low end ratio that I have. 36/ 30 is a 1.2, and you might be okay on a full power with less gear, but it's going to be a low cadence and put a lot of stress on parts. And with my preferred 34T up front the low-end gear is only a 1.06. That would be brutal on the bike AND the human.
3) Generally, I can't see a ton of use for a 52T 1st gear on a full power e-bike (unless the assistance breaks down way out on the trails!) but there is an argument to be made for getting more in the middle of the cassette because with my 32 front I spend a lot of time in the higher gears. A 34T combined with a 500% ratio cassette would be helpful for not having to shift so quickly, staying more towards the middle of the cassette, and having the gear range for all conditions. See Linkglide 11 speed for some good ideas, but she's a heavy gal at around 625 grams I think.
https://www.vitalmtb.com/forums/hub/e-bike-talk-not-tech-rumor-derailme…
yeah 34 with a 51T is perfect for e-mtb, I use every gear on a ride for sure, 51T in "trail" on a ep8 gets used a fair bit on super steep pinches around here, mostly rock slab stuff.
I ride like a normal bike cadence though, the shimano motor won't work well with the slow cadence like those Yamaha Giants of old, you literally just sauntered along and the thing was flying up the hill lol.
Looks like the next tr-11 based on the mullet wheels and who was on it. Saw another one with full 27.5 recently too. Prolly won’t be for a while. Hope it actually comes with a dh shock unlike the last bike.
Do I have a meaningful reason? No. I do have all of the Shimano and SRAM bleed stuff, spare pads for every bike, etc that just makes it easy to stick with the big 2 - especially since I'd assume there's a good chance the Motive will use the same pad as the Code.
I know people who have run Dominions and Hope V4's with decent experiences, but not without their little issues or amazing enough performance reports over the normal Shimano or SRAM suspects for me to justify the change. Also, there's a decent chance I change my accent parts after a year to a different color, so while color matched brakes would be sweet, it would by far be the most expensive "accent" part I'd have to swap when I get tired of purple. I'm still tempted though...
I used that logic for way too long before I finally bought some Dominions and realised I was being really stupid. Never going back to Shimano or Sram brakes. The only downside I've found is holding back the vomit whenever i have to use someone elses brakes.
Until you grab on some Trinitys
Yeah anything that Intend or Trickstuff do I'm sure is frikken awesome, but nobody I ride with is on that level of jewellery.
Yeah the price on em is a little hard to stomach. My trinitys are just about worth more than the rest of my bike combined 😅
Yup. I still "regret" trying my friend's Trickstuffs. Now I am on Trinity, and everything else is cheap
https://www.ride-beringer.com/components/en/etrier-de-frein/37-61-ensemble-de-freins.html#/11-color-black
Available in purple…Moto companies after a piece of the 🥧
Hey everyone, wouldn't it be cool if there was a thread for debating brake stuff? There is!
https://www.vitalmtb.com/forums/hub/nerding-out-brakes-shall-we-not-another-tech-deraliment?page=38#comment-585176
Sorry Pops
TEAMROBOT ain’t yo daddy. TEAMROBOT is your robot overlord. TEAMROBOT will not abide by your passive aggression. TEAMROBOT will direct you to the appropriate forum thread. May we all thank TEAMROBOT for his continued patience.
2 years ago some eagle eyed super nibblers on here spotted an ochain on saint cranks at a DH world cup,,,,, I figured enough time has passed that i can disclose how it happened. Am sure someone will be interested. https://www.mtbr.com/threads/modifying-saint-cranks.1237732/#replies
Some incredible work, well done!
That awesome, great creativity and execution!