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This may not always be the case, but a lifetime bearing warranty often brings an incentive for the manufacturer not to have to supply 20 sets of bearings per frame, so they design and spec better. Frames with bearings in linkages are my preference provided they are quality - not much point having bearings in linkages if the pivot axle is wearing a groove in your frame. In my 4 years on an Arrival I have replaced one set of bearings and ridden a lot in loads of conditions. Bearing quality, bearing seat tolerance, and frame alignment are important. I...

Is “a lot” more or less than twice a year? Because twice a year sounds like a lot to me.

I love DH bikes. They make my motor hum like a buzzy bee. I get excited just looking at my DH bike and all silly when I ride it and pretend I’m Asa who makes it look SO easy.

Take it easy buddy. I’m not trying to derail the entire conversation but also think it’s allowed to have an aside now and again. There’s plenty of off topic quips that go on in this thread.

I emailed them about 5 weeks ago to see if this was a possibility. They said “watch this space”. Glad to see it’s happening.

I think a better reason is because Ford was a nazi sympathizer. That said, we have more than likely all owned products from companies with ties to the nazis sadly.

It's more an explanation of why evil hasn't had a dh bike in their lineup for so long

yeah I prefer this to arguing about brake mounting standards tbh

I’m not pro-Evil but dude this is like bringing up the Pinto as a reason not to get a new Ford. There may be plenty of relevant and current reasons but this isn’t one.

What other screw are you referring to?

I would bottom the screw out at that point to stop you being able to adjust past it in future. I can't remember if that's at the - or + direction. It probably doesn't matter if you won't ever adjust it again.

How about bite point screw at that moment - should it be full "-" like from factory or it doesn't matter ?

What I did Turned push-rod almost fully clockwise - as shown on this topic to eliminate dead stroke movement.Here I should be safe as only moving counterclockwise too much could move piston too much and block the timing port - this is my understanding and here is what I don't understand: Official Avid stream describes that user can play with bite point adjust screw to eliminate the free pad movement. It's full to "-" by factory but if we want we can turn it more towards "+" to quicker engage pads to rotor. So we have one unofficial way (turning...

There is a really simple solution to minimising lever throw and not blocking off the timing port - adjust the bite point/pushrod with the bleed syringes connected and make sure fluid still goes from lever to caliper. It takes a bit of trial and error but its foolproof.

People gotta tinker.

It is wild to me that the majority of discussion in this thread continues to be around the 8-year-old Hayes Dominion. For the record, I own three sets.

I futzed with changing the pushrod length when I owned a couple pairs of Dominions, and they were all set to slightly different lengths from the factory. So I don't buy that they're set at the absolute minimum limit. They definitely have a nominal length specification (I know because when I went too far, I asked for what it should be to go back to factory setting) but assembly tolerances are a thing. The BPC is definitely set to the minimum position from the factory though. It's just that there is slight variation in how far into the pivot bushing...

In the above picture, you can see the pushrod, which is used to adjust the bite point. Clockwise advances the piston in the bore, counterclockwise retreats it. Adjust it too much and the seal on the piston can block off the timing port hole, circled in red, effectively closing the brake off. Hayes made much about setting this gap between seal and port holes as minimum as possible from the factory and recommend against mucking around with it. Bite point adjustment does nothing to the caliper pistons' location. That is designed into the seal and seal seat interface and cannot...

Forwarding what I got from HAYES. "The internet is not correct here. In that, Dominion is setup at assembly with ZERO dead stroke - and you cannot adjust this to have less than none. Effectively you'll block the timing port and the brakes will not be able to be bled or function properly. The pistons advance as pads wear, all disc brakes should function this way - just like on an automobile. You can back this adjustment out to have more lever pull - or some deadstroke." I may not follow correctly , but it sounds like bite point adjuster...