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In my experience, it's almost never the links. Inspect the seat post. My V1 was creaking like hell when the frame flexed and rubbed against the very bottom of the seat post - even when not sitting on the saddle. Try a different crankset, try different pedals, try a different shock, try a different rear wheel.

i think it is pretty easy to differntiate between a pedal powered bike and a full motor driven bike. I don't think they will police at all but respectfully do not agree that it will be too difficult for ht he man to differentiate.

Thanks for the post Spomer. I was litereally looking at a V10 yesterday and thinking "man, I'm still surprised nobody has really retrofitted a good solid batter+motor to DH bikes yet that has a throttle". While I may be dreaming to some extent there, the one thing I'd like to point out is we've been hearing the same thing for over 5 years and from what I can tell, not much has happened. E-Bikes haven't served catalyst to mass trail closures. I see zero data to suggest more trail conflicts are occuring. The sky is not in fact falling. This...

That’s a good question about rebound and leverage rate: From Google search; Yes, the leverage rate of a suspension system can influence the rebound speed. A high leverage ratio will generally result in a faster rebound, while a lower ratio will result in a slower rebound. The leverage ratio determines how much force the suspension system transmits to the shock, affecting how quickly the shock moves. Here's a more detailed explanation: High Leverage Ratio: With a higher leverage ratio, the shock experiences a larger force for a given wheel movement, leading to a quicker extension (faster rebound). Low Leverage Ratio...

Servicing my old Bird AM9 I went for a ride and was listening to an annoying creak for the whole time riding up. Trying to find it I finally undid the front shock bolt, the shock moved under it a bit, tightened it back up and all was quiet. Since then I ALWAYS tighten shock bolts with the bike sat on the ground (just like I do with wheel axles, always tighten them witht he bike sitting on the ground).

Likely the shock extender. Any time I unbolt the shock from a shock extender, when I set the bike back up I always compress it a couple of times with the bolt torqued only half way. There is always clearance between the bolt and bushing. If the shock is slightly to the side due to that clearance, that misalignment will make a pretty loud noise. Compressing the bike a couple of times before fully torquing the shock bolt can help make sure everything is centered up. Specialized frames are what I find this most useful on, but anything with a...