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Back to radial talk. 3rd ride on my Tacky Chan + Romy trail radial, and slashed the sidewall on the Romy. No idea how or where, no moment of "oh crap", on a trail I've ridden 50 times before without a puncture. Its been years since I've had a sidewall puncture, I used to puncture Exo+ on the bead or top of tread. Hoping it was a fluke but I'm concerned how thin they are for me. I'm going to patch it and keep trying. This was my concern switching from Conti enduro to the trail Schwalbe.
Before the puncture I was liking them quite a bit. Conforms really nice over small chatter, especially noticable while doing technical climbing. The Romy broke free fine for me and hooked up well on flat corners. The Tacky Chan was great leaned over. I was digging it. Was going between 24-25 on the front and 27-28 on the rear (150lbs), which was 2-4psi higher than previous tires. I don't think more pressure would have stopped the sidewall tear.
In theory radials will be easier to cut than a regular bias ply MTB tire. Because the threads in the carcass are more parallel to each other it's easier to slice between them.
For me, the main data points on radials is that comparing my previous Continental Xynotol Enduro Soft vs the Schwalbe Trail Pro Radial Soft is that the Schwalbe is 35g lighter (3%), the radials have more grip, roll similar, are more comfortable at slower speeds, but seem to puncture significantly easier on the sidewall. The enduro mag test seemed to confirm that, where enduro casing had a ~28% puncture resistance compared to 9% on trail radial, although I am not sure where on the tire that was tested, and they did not change the pressures. Puncture resistance was my main concern trying this tire, but I did not want to add 175g to the rear of my trail bike with gravity. I want to do more testing to confirm if this is a fluke or not, but 3rd ride on a very familiar trail isn't confidence inspiring.
Depending what people are looking for in tires or how hard they are on them would help people consider the benefits of radial vs non.
Anyone have time on the new Vee radial offerings? Treads look good for what ever that's worth.
In kind of a "duh... what were you thinking, dummy" moment since I started running radials again... I had noticed that it felt like my rear suspension was occasionally blowing through its travel (landing jumps, square edge brake bumps). I added a bunch of LSC & HSC, still was happening. Added shock pressure and it still would happen. Then I realized I just didn't have enough rear tire pressure, and that I was just bottoming out the tire in certain situations (even though it was stable most of the time). Good thing my Reserve rims are tough. 🤣 I added ~2 psi to the rear and it seems to have mostly resolved it.
Alright, need new tires for my enduro bike and Trail bike, keen to try the Schwalbe radials and looking for some advice. I'm in the greater Seattle area, mostly ride natural trails, bike parks at most 3 times a year. I prefer tires that I can ride year round and don't ride much in the wettest parts of winter. Was thinking:
Enduro bike: magic Mary super soft radial DH front, tacky Chan soft radial DH rear
Trail bike: having some trouble with this one. Romy radial front and rear? Tacky Chan front romy rear? Albert front romy rear?
Planning on radials front and rear. Not too much high speed cornering for where I ride regularly.
They were mounted on different bikes but the Wild Enduro MS mounted front & rear roll way faster than a Hillbilly/Cannibal combo.
I agree with @NonLineon - the Wild Enduro MS fly under the radar a bit (in these forums at least). I have been using them exclusively for the last year or so across all UK condituons and I can't remember using a grippier tyre. They are spiky enough for UK winter mud but stable enough for hardpack, high speed corners too. The casing strikes a nice balance in my experience. They do wear out extremely fast on the back though
Agreed on all points. I’ve also thought about throwing a dh16 on the back - looks pretty comparable to a dhr2. Do you have any experience with that tire? It’s only available in their DH casing, so might be too stiff for me as I haven’t had issues with their enduro casing.
Not the DH16, but I have used the DH22 in the past (which I assume has the same casing). If you ride a lot of bikepark or fast and rough trails it might be ok, but I found it too stiff for more general UK enduro stuff
I've noticed that even at higher pressures radials bottom more easily. Will radials resurrect tire inserts??
Also, I'm thinking of converting my ebike to a mullet. It's current MM R front, Albert R rear. Ill be needing a new rear tire.
If the Tacky Chan really does roll faster than the Albert, and is better on the DH, is that what I should get in 650b for the rear?
Again, if the Tacky Chan rolls faster than the Albert, whats the point of the Albert?
Albert is for people who are scared of gaps between center and side knobs.
I do hate the DHF
Sounds like good combos to me!
Since you have a enduro bike, im guessing you want the trail bike to be a bit more speedy?
You should consider:
F - Romy Trail Soft Radial
R - Romy Trail Mid (aka Speedgrip) Radial
Could also opt for Romy Race Mid on the back. Not Radial, but it will roll quite fast because of the race casing.
I have the dh16 on the back of my enduro bike currently. I haven't ridden a dhr in a long time but i'd say the dh16 is similiar to a tacky chan 2.4 on the rear, but more. It feels a bit heavier, rolls a bit slower, brakes a bit better, but has similar handling characteristics wrt to the gap in between center and cornering knobs and the locked in cornering feel.
Overall the dh16 is a bit more tire than the TC, and for me I prefer the dh16 for shuttles and bike park, and the TC everywhere else (as a rear tire)
in my search for "downcountry" tires, i found good deals on some specialized tires. Going to try an eliminator t9 (im familiar with the tread pattern as a back tire) on the front and a purgatory t7 on the back, both the light grid casing. Will report back once i get some miles on them.
I’ve got ~100mi and ~20k ft of vert on the new Tacky Chan Trail Pro Radial 2.5 Softs now, and they’re my new favorite tire. Finding the right pressure took some work, but at 33/30 they hit the right balance of support and grip. They just straight hook up in the loose stuff, are really predictable on turn-in, and roll freakishly fast.
As a “I hate Albert, all my homies hate Albert” guy, I definitely did not expect this, but here we are.
So the new one would be also heavier?
Not by much. The updated Gravity Pro construction is around 70g heavier than the previous version.
This is largely due to the now extended layers under the tread cap https://www.vitalmtb.com/forums/hub/tire-chat-nerds-only?page=49#comment-796116
Anyone having issues with the new HR3s? My first two on the rear have had cracking at the base of almost every knob while still nearly new. Fresh tires with only a couple rides on them. I am even getting it on my front too. Not as bad as the rear but still noticeable.
Please reach out to the warranty dept and they can get you sorted with a new set and send you a label to return the cracking tires. I am an engineer at Maxxis (not in the compound team) and can get these into the right hands for analysis to see why this is happening on your set.
https://www.maxxis.com/us/warranty/bicycle-warranty/
I very much appreciate the follow up!
Reached out awhile back when it first started happening and not much was said other than just submit a warranty. Didn't end up submitting, but it now has done it to multiple others, so I finally just submitted for one of them.
Curious what's causing it or if it's common. 3/3 of mine having same issue. Still absolutely loving the tires but a bummer to see.
Glad to hear you’re liking the tires! I was on the design of the HR and it was a super fun project and love to hear when people enjoy them.
How do you store the bike / tires? Climate controlled? Near any large appliances?
Took a lot for me to steer from the classic Assegai/DHRII combo but been absolutely stoked on the change to HR3. For all conditions. Been real stoked on em and probably will be all I run now. Appreciate your work on them and what they turned out to be!
Always very climate controlled, inside, and not located near anything else. Pretty moderate/dry climate where ridden primarily (SW CO). The fastest deterioration in cracking was on my first one while in Revy/Whistler last fall. I had wondered if the back and forth between wet and dry had anything to do with it. That one went fastest to crack but wore down the slowest. Back home now, they wear faster for me but cracking less quickly. First happened within a few rides. The other two cracked within a few weeks.
Am I an idiot for considering schwalbe radial trail casing for the rear? I Usually run conti enduro casing with an insert to save rims but I now run a pretty hefty DH rim on my trail bike. Considering it to save some weight on the rear. Will I die?
I’m running Trail Pro Radials front and rear and my butt hasn’t fallen off yet. I’m 220lb with gear/water and running 33 psi in back, though, so check your rim’s max pressure spec if you’re a heavier rider.
Ok I’m convinced to give it a go. I’ll have someone report back if I die.
Just curious - is the reason the HR is not available in MT for use as a rear tire because the design was mostly for race or loose conditions where rolling speed / durability take a backseat? I'm a big fan of the HR up front here in California, but cannot run MG in the back unless I'm going to replace it in a couple hundred miles. Our dirt is just too abrasive.
Looking forward to trying the DHx whenever you guys finally release that!
I'm digging these new generation of open pattern / good side knob tires that still roll fast (HR, Tacky Chan). The TC is good but I am burning through their Soft rubber fast in the rear so likely to go back to Conti rear or try out the new version of MaxxTerra.
The next radial?
I fail to see the point of the Dirty Dan when Schwalbe already has the Shredda Front and Shredda Rear. Those are so much better than the Dirty Dan!
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