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Unpopular opinion: I prefer center lock over the six bolt. The rattle doesn't bother me.
GET OUT
I get all my syringes from ali express and recently picked up a few of these ones - the turkey basting needles were novel and can be used for squirting grease inside things but I don't think I'll actually use those too much. Mine came with a little bottle brush thats perfect for cleaning callipers too. I've always found they work great and have an ancient syringe that still seals (just - I think I had to replace the piston seal recently) under a huge vacuum. Only issue with these new ones is the numbers aren't etched on so will probably wear off
As for rinsing with water - I used to do this for dot syringes as it would prevent the rubber from swelling up. As long as they are FULLY dry it should be ok, but these days I basically just buy bulk packets of syringes and run them until the seals stop working
I also share this opinion, and I know not what rattle you speak of.
Yeah... what rattle?
I don't care either way (i.e. hub interface isn't a deal-breaker) but as far as I'm concerned centrelock hubs are universal. Got a six bolt rotor? Use an adaptor.
Can't use an adapter reliably with anything more than a 180mm rotor in most cases. I like my 200s.
Why can't you?
So a CL-6B adaptor for a 223 wasn't a good idea then 😅
i used one with a 223, no issues.
When I got back into mountainbiking again a few years ago I thought centerlock was the new standard. Now though it looks like we're moving backwards so you need to use adapters when you actually have the newest standard on your bike.
I use the centerlock adapter to 6 bolt from DT Swiss and it says max disc ø 230mm. Seems to be doing what it's supposed to after 1 season on my 203mm rotors, so I cannot say much about any rattle either.
Well if nothing else having 6bolt hubs and rotors makes it easier to disassemble the bike and out it back together if you're traveling. If you have CL rotors you need to add three pieces of gear to the tool pack, with a 6 bolt you only need a T25 (which you likely already have in the pack).
Other than that having CL hubs is a non issue I'd say.
I recently dug out a GT iT1 from storage to go through it and check/grease/bleed everything etc. I had the idea in my head that i could grab a generic lockring tool to remove the discs. It turns out that because they are 20mm Saint axles front and rear i needed to go buy another larger tool. Pain in the ass. Just give me 6 bolts.
I think it's the same interface as a Shimano hollow tech bottom bracket cup, if you have a BB socket/wrench it may work.
It is. 15+ mm axle requires the BB tool, up to 12 mm is possible with the cassette lockring.
I went with one of these TL-LR20 tools. https://winstanleysbikes.co.uk/shimano-saint-tl-lr20-disc-rotor-oversiz…
Ah, that's from the old Saint days when the front hub was not yet on the BB interface apparently.
Yeah the bike is a 2006. It has some cool custom GT weirdness going on aswell. Like the rear brake is on the 'other' side.
Pics.
was wondering if anyone has put any useful time on the lewis ax brakes. kinda curious as there is like nothing about how they are online
https://pedroseurope.eu/products/external-bottom-bracket-socket
I bought that one because not all 16 x 44 BB cups have enough room inside like this has, and Pedros thankfully has tested theirs and put it in the text so you know it should do centerlock as well.
I own a Shimano 16 x 44 BB cup as well but it's super shallow, and even for BB use it is just garbage. You get no purchase between the part and the tool so it will slip and ruin your day. Since I cannot even use it for centerlock either the tool is literally a paper weight.
It's the Shimano TL-FC33 tool if you want to know, and I recommend to stay away from that one.
This is insane how have I never heard of this bike
They weren't mass produced compared with other GT DH models. There are so many custom machined detail parts all over it that i doubt they made much profit on them. GT used to be very experimental back then.
Sorry for going OT on the brake thread
The early 2000's were the wild west of frame design.
You need three of these?
I have no doubt these are massively powerful, but the lever throw must be pretty long. 9mm master cylinder piston with 18/19.5mm caliper pistons and no cam system in the lever. I remember people having complaints about this with Trickstuff DRT/Maxima levers when installed to formula Cura 4 calipers (9mm MC, 18/18mm pistons).
I’m assuming when he’s talking about the Gustav being comparable in power, he’s referring to them matched to the same Radic lever, but these have 19/19mm pistons which seems liken it would make the lever throw issue even worse.
I sure do enjoy seeing people try all kinds of franken-brake setups though!
Better to go with base caliper then?
Post a reply to: Nerding out on Brakes shall we? Not another tech deraliment