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2/6/2026
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Morristown, NJ, USA
Hello all, I am looking for recommendations on a rear wheel setup with as much strength as possible. I'm 230 lbs, 6'4", and end up destroying wheels within 1-2 months in the park. I keep up with spoke tension regularly, but constantly have issues with rim strikes deep into the bead. Last year I went through 3 reserve HD30s, and 2 FR541s in a single season. I currently run FR571s with DT Champion 2.0 spokes on brass nipples, CushCore Pro, and a 2.5" DH DHRII at 30 PSI on my DH rig, but detonated a wheel over the weekend at Killington. Would a lower engagement hub, or chain device also help to free up the wheel and allow it to move more fluidly through the stroke?
What is your rebound like? As someone who enjoys a slower, more glued to the ground feel, I have found that slower rebound can cause suspension to sort of "pack up" and increase the amount of rim strikes I get.
Running a 2027 Vivid Select + with 600# spring, LSC fully closed, rebound 6 clicks from full open on a 2024 TR11
Im similar weight and im about 32psi on Conti DH casing - dry park flow id be higher.
Running Race face ERA EMTB wheels, They have been excellent.
I'd be curious about trying those plastic inserts for your case?
I find chain devices extremely worthwhile for park riding regardless. Maybe try the new Maxxis casing?
Couple things here. First, check into the Ibis/BLKBRD Send rims. So far the only rims really holding up for one of my pal's son's. Kid is a bruiser on a bike, as evidenced by the 3 wheel builds in queue for him for his Session. Similar profile, diff maker, Spank Spike 369 looks like a good idea as well.
Next, build with butted spokes. Straight gauge build stiff wheels but stiff ain't the same as strong. DT Alpine or Pillar PTB380 or TB2018 would be my recommendation. They're all fatter at the bend/head but take out some girth through the middle before going down to a standard 2.0 threaded end. Butted spokes build in some spring/give into the wheel, making it less likely to fail catastrophically. They cost more but they save coin down the road.
I agree that butted spokes are essential for wheel strength. They allow the spokes and the wheel to bend and not break. But even more important than that, butted spokes hold tension better. Because spokes are always being cycled from more tension to less tension (and in heavy duty bike park or DH riding they're also being reduced to zero tension in heavy berms and ruts), the spokes need a way to absorb constant changes in spoke tension. With a butted spoke, that take-up of tension is built in, but straight gauge spokes are much less elastic, so they tend to come loose at the nipples over time much faster than butted spokes.
I wouldn't be surprised if your frequent rim problems have actually been spoke tension problems, not a result of stronger or less strong wheels. Once even a couple spokes are out of tension, they rapidly get looser and looser and compromise the whole wheel with them, and things degrade quickly. I used to be a chronic wheel breaker until I started using strictly butted spokes and started religiously using a Park Tool TM-1 spoke tension meter to keep all my spokes in the wheel within 1-2 units of each other (the Park Tool meter doesn't measure tension in standard scientific units). Wheel builders also have cult-like devotion to the spoke thread treatments they use to keep spokes tight. I used to use Wheelsmith SpokePrep, but now I use purple 222 Loctite. Both worked well for me, but nothing made a bigger difference than butted spokes and the Park Tool TM-1.
On your next wheel, I would recommend maniacally monitoring spoke tension, and see if your results vary.
I've also heard that the Chromag BA30 rim is pound for pound the strongest alloy rim you can get, but I haven't used one and can't verify that claim. And, more importantly, I don't think you have a rim problem, I'm betting it's a spoke/spoke tension problem.
I wonder if the ENVE M9 Pro or the NOBL Ethos HD would hold up? I'm a big fan of ENVE's with the rim strip.
Haven't looked too deeply into the rim saver since I also like the sidewall support of the cushcore, keeps the tire on the rim for me. Maybe this new Maxxis casing in conjunction with that could be the move.
First, I'd look at suspension; probably more important: Why is your LSC fully closed? Isn't that the same as locking out your suspension? You know, for climbing? Try half of that. Or just no LSC for an extreme taste of difference. Also, your rebound seems fast. 6 from full open? For a clydesdale's 600# spring? Hmmmm....Both those things kinda doesn't add up. I'll let the suspension pro bros chime in.
Second, You're not going to like this. But I'd look into your riding style.
Yeah, I know you're a big dude. But your track record of failed wheels is, um, off the charts. That ain't normal. Even for you, Chief CNutt Clydesdale.
It doesn't sound like you're taco-ing wheels, like landing sideways, but more like heavy hits from rocks, straight-lining gnar. Correct me if I'm wrong.
I'd say: Replace smashing, with floating. Think smooth and light. Go out of your way to try finding and taking the smooth(er) line.
Fast is smooth and smooth saves wheels.
See if that helps. Good luck!
LSC is dialed up due to the TR11 being regressive in the initial portion of the stoke, helps to keep support without having to run a 650-700# spring.
Yes, these are not tacos, straight line shmash
Newmen Beskar 30 DH, might be the strongest aluminum rim currently, definitely a heavy weight 840 grams!
6’4” x 240lbs and swear by NOBL TR41’s. I’ve had 4 sets and never needed to break out the spoke wrench once.
I’ve also got a set of their newest ebike/big boi Ethos HD wheels. They are way more compliant. So far so good on those too.
I’ve had the most success with CK hubs.
Here are the main reasons for rim failure.
I think you're in the stronger wheel camp but I do agree with the other members that you're probably in the firmer part of your rear suspension stroke more often because of the slow rebound and it makes it harder for wheels to move out of the way > you hit rims more > you break rims more.
Happy to help diagnose with the other vital crew here. 🤜
(not a plug for our insert... you'll want to fix some of the other things mentioned before relying on an insert first, those things will have the biggest wins).
I believe it was the late Dave Garland that famously said frequent flat tires a suspension setup issue.
I was certainly a lot harder on wheels when suspension still kinda sucked and I just stuffed my shit full of volume reducers and left the clickers open
Okay, so this might be a dumb question, but... those three dented rims still look totally usable, no?
We're talking about rear wheels on a downhill bike, and the tubeless tires still seem to be seated on the rim and holding air. I get that dents like this don't help with a rim's long term strength, but it seems to me like these wheels are all still working in the images. I wouldn't want to show up to a World Cup with a rear wheel like that, but it seems fine to me for a weekend at the bike park. Or am I misunderstanding something?
Notwithstanding suspension setup changes (including chain damper device like ochain), I would look for either hollow bead alloy rim option like the Spank 369 or Industry Nine Deal alloy (previously known as grade 300) or move on to known strong carbon option if most of your breakage are just bead collapsing and not full on rim broken in multiple pieces carnage. So Enve M9, WeAreOne Deal, Reserve 30 DH
For what it’s worth, it seemed that I went through rear wheels a lot more often on that TR11 design than I do a different suspension platform. It seemed that bike was really good at absorbing the first big hit but really struggled to handle the next few, and my rebound was set pretty fast. I’m not an expert, but that frame is highly leveraged off the top and it ramps up hard, which seems to leave the wheels to soak up the abuse, not the suspension. I put an Ochain on that bike and the ride was noticeably better. Did it save my rear rim from an early demise… that’s hard to say.
This is all spot on - you absolutely need to use double butted spokes like DT competitions, tightened to at least the minimum tension and as even as possible. Keep an eye on the tension but if they are properly stress relieved you shouldn't need to adjust them much (if at all) unless theres a bad dent. But you will get less flatspots using DB spokes for sure, and the even tension is super critical. If they keep coming badly loose they either weren't built very well or the components are not appropriate for the use
Also running closed LSC does not help for sure - that loads up the wheel much more before it starts moving so if you can open up even 1 click that should help, but I would suggest going up a compression tune or 2 instead so you can open it up even more
TEAMROBOT's comment about spoke tension is important. This is what I have to do on my Reserve 30 DH alloys. Doesn't seem like you've clarified if you're checking spoke tension after every park day or not.
Another option, maybe unpopular, but I wonder if you tried the Reserve DH Carbon or WAO Deal, with Schwalbe Radials at 35 PSI (skip the insert), if they would hold up. Carbon does better if you're not checking spoke tension regularly.
I kind of doubt a pedal kickback device has anything to do with wheel failure.
Can you tolerate more PSI? I went to Angelfire early this season and started the weekend at 35psi, cushcore and DH tire. I weigh 170 lbs. Yes it sucks, but so does killing a wheel at 11am on Saturday when you're supposed to ride all weekend.
Also- agree with ROBOT- I'd bend those dents (sidewall) straighter with a crescent wrench and keep riding until its really dead.
Yeah, I guess if you weigh 170 but ride 2x faster than most people you need 35 psi and a cushcore...
Random but my buddies and I stayed up at Trestle last weekend. We were watching old EWS videos and I showed them the Keystone clip of you following Sam Hill a long time ago. Great clip. The Gopro is so shaky back then though, pretty funny.
I agree.
My EX511 has like 5 of these right now. All straightened with crescent wrench - it’ll never by true again, but holds air and will go until it doesn’t.
As an experienced wheelbuilder I have to recommend to not do the minimum spoke tension thing like the pro racers. Spoke tension contributes two things to a wheel: strength and stiffness. The stiffness between a tighly laced wheel and a loosely laced wheel is actually identical (provided none of the spokes actually de-tensions completely), because the spokes function as springs, and the springrate remains constant over all (viable) tensions. The wheelSTRENGTH drops significantly though, as you lower spoke tension. This is not relevant for pro racers though, as they get newly laced wheels often, but for recreational riders, it could mean loose/broken spokes in the middle of a bike vacation, which could ruin your trip.
Then why do pro racers lower the tension? Comfort... it is my suspicion that the lower tension transfer vibrations differently, causing a wheel to 'feel better'. Maybe similar as what those Berd rope-wheels do.
So my recommendation would be to keep the spoke tension of the tightest side between 1100-1300N, depending on recommendations of hub and rim manufacturer.
Ok I corrected my post as it might not have been clear - i meant they should be tightened to at least the minimum recommended tension, ie 1100-1300N on the driveside. Was trying not to over explain it but I can see how it might have been suggesting to run them at the lowest tension possible - I also agree people shouldn't do that!
I'll usually pull out the smaller ones in the bead if they aren't too bad. Once theyre into the bed of the rim/deforming spoke holes they wont hold air without 5-6 layers of tape, and even then i get sketched out about the safety of it.
2 of those 3 rims had cracks formed at spoke holes. Reserve was great with the warranty but replacing one over 2-3 weeks gets annoying fast
Gents, can we talk about the crescent wrench thing? Dude, crescent wrench is not the preferred nomenclature (tool) it’s knipex (or knockoff) please. Besides, then you also have the proper tool for everything hex related on the bike, rotor truing, fork air top caps and can even use it as a hand vice if need be. Next thing you’re going to say is that you use the ole rock on rock tap method to reduce air pressure in your suspension. MADNESS! FWIW, I use a 7” for most things and I have a knockoff one that travels so that the name brand lives in my garage to live a (mostly) un-abused life.
Concur with everything that has been said. I do kill ex511’s and Reserve AL/HDs after a year, but rarely because they no longer hold air. Mostly because I get annoyed with a wobble or flat spot that’s so bad I can feel it while sitting down riding laison fire roads or have spoke tension so all over the place I can start to feel it in berms. Bend’r straight, check spoke tension and run it until you’re annoyed with it.
Lastly, I use the park tool spoke tensiometer at home (bonus points for testing/calibrating it or calibrating to it said more accurately if you’re doing lots of builds)… but I have a knockoff one that lives in my car tool roll and sometimes travels in my bike bag. It’s shit… but it’s good enough to check for consistency from one spoke to another and was 1/3 the price. I would not build a wheel with it unless I was doing a parking lot, in frame build out of necessity.
looking around for the carbon rims in this post…
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