Anyone ever flat from spokes poking through the rim tape? Recently happened to me- DT Swiss FR560 32H- smashed very hard on something- got 2x holes from spokes poking up through the rim tape. DH tire and cushcore.
I'm guessing the ghetto tubeless tube would have saved me but installation with a cushcore would be impossible.
Anyone ever flat from spokes poking through the rim tape? Recently happened to me- DT Swiss FR560 32H- smashed very hard on something- got 2x holes...
Anyone ever flat from spokes poking through the rim tape? Recently happened to me- DT Swiss FR560 32H- smashed very hard on something- got 2x holes from spokes poking up through the rim tape. DH tire and cushcore.
I'm guessing the ghetto tubeless tube would have saved me but installation with a cushcore would be impossible.
Yes, but when the head of the spoke broke and essentially the whole spoke with the nipple pushed through the rim.
And yes the ghetto tubeless would prevent that.
Also I have spoke hole plastic covers from aliexpress at home and was thinking about trying out plugging the holes backed up with a strong sealant on the seam. Haven't gotten around to it yet though.
Thoughts on really high pivot bikes? Wouldn't this design run into that dumb itrack patent?
great for racing, not great for playing. Nothing plows quite like a super high pivot, but they can be hard to generate speed on flatter terrain. I won't pretend to understand what the I-Track patent actually covers, but it looks like it may infringe on the patent based on the fact that the idler is independently mobile from the frame.
I-Track does hold a European Union patent, hopefully somebody who can read through the patent more thoroughly can explain further.
Anyone ever flat from spokes poking through the rim tape? Recently happened to me- DT Swiss FR560 32H- smashed very hard on something- got 2x holes...
Anyone ever flat from spokes poking through the rim tape? Recently happened to me- DT Swiss FR560 32H- smashed very hard on something- got 2x holes from spokes poking up through the rim tape. DH tire and cushcore.
I'm guessing the ghetto tubeless tube would have saved me but installation with a cushcore would be impossible.
Happened on my light bicycle rims on my xc hardtail. I attributed it to the lack of suspension and cheap Chinese flexy rims, good to know it has happened to others.
Anyone ever flat from spokes poking through the rim tape? Recently happened to me- DT Swiss FR560 32H- smashed very hard on something- got 2x holes...
Anyone ever flat from spokes poking through the rim tape? Recently happened to me- DT Swiss FR560 32H- smashed very hard on something- got 2x holes from spokes poking up through the rim tape. DH tire and cushcore.
I'm guessing the ghetto tubeless tube would have saved me but installation with a cushcore would be impossible.
These have been rapidly gaining popularity in the XC world, with top places at the last Olympics. I think they now have a heavier duty version advertised for enduro. Has anyone seen them in EDR or DH events yet?
Anyone ever flat from spokes poking through the rim tape? Recently happened to me- DT Swiss FR560 32H- smashed very hard on something- got 2x holes...
Anyone ever flat from spokes poking through the rim tape? Recently happened to me- DT Swiss FR560 32H- smashed very hard on something- got 2x holes from spokes poking up through the rim tape. DH tire and cushcore.
I'm guessing the ghetto tubeless tube would have saved me but installation with a cushcore would be impossible.
Pretty common issue AFAIK, from both being a mechanic back in the day to riding lots and testing new product all the time. WTB resolves this issue with a designed-in rim liner that sits perfectly in a channel. Tubeless tape goes over this. At home, I use either gorilla tape or my personal preference, the old school 8934 filament tape (not the cloth variety) that's been used on wheels since time immemorial.
Not to put too fine a point on it, but a 4mm increase in a 57mm width, is not lost in the noise. It will be...
Not to put too fine a point on it, but a 4mm increase in a 57mm width, is not lost in the noise. It will be a measurably stiffer wheel (if that's what you want). Of course both options beat the crazy drive-side dish on typical 148 12-speed wheels.
I should have specified that building between the Hope hub and the Oneup hub the 4mm would be lost in the noise. There are other factors...
I should have specified that building between the Hope hub and the Oneup hub the 4mm would be lost in the noise. There are other factors at play with wheel systems one of which is the PCD, which hope has the leg up on with a larger PCD resulting in shorter spokes, which helps with the bracing angle and in general, shorter spokes = stiffer wheel. If you run the numbers between the oneup hub and the pro5 you gain 10% in lateral stiffness with less radial and torsional stiffness, ~3%. Overall wheel strength when looking at the combined metrics of lateral, radial and torsional stiffness, you are gaining maybe 5% in overall strength.
If you can feel that in your wheels, bravo, I most definitely can't and I bet very few people could. It's equivalent to going from a 1.8 to a 1.75mm spoke.
FWIW Dr Mathew Ford wrote a very comprehensive paper for his Ph.d thesis on the mechanics and optimization of the bicycle wheel.
Then carry on.These have been rapidly gaining popularity in the XC world, with top places at the last Olympics. I think they now have a heavier...
Then carry on.
These have been rapidly gaining popularity in the XC world, with top places at the last Olympics. I think they now have a heavier duty version advertised for enduro. Has anyone seen them in EDR or DH events yet?
Edit: Google says no.
Im pretty sure that’s what Jesse was racing at the Whistler enduro the other day
Anyone ever flat from spokes poking through the rim tape? Recently happened to me- DT Swiss FR560 32H- smashed very hard on something- got 2x holes...
Anyone ever flat from spokes poking through the rim tape? Recently happened to me- DT Swiss FR560 32H- smashed very hard on something- got 2x holes from spokes poking up through the rim tape. DH tire and cushcore.
I'm guessing the ghetto tubeless tube would have saved me but installation with a cushcore would be impossible.
Pretty common issue AFAIK, from both being a mechanic back in the day to riding lots and testing new product all the time. WTB resolves this...
Pretty common issue AFAIK, from both being a mechanic back in the day to riding lots and testing new product all the time. WTB resolves this issue with a designed-in rim liner that sits perfectly in a channel. Tubeless tape goes over this. At home, I use either gorilla tape or my personal preference, the old school 8934 filament tape (not the cloth variety) that's been used on wheels since time immemorial.
Thank you for alerting me to this product. Yes I've also had spokes break and poke through my rim tape, and with Cushcore installed the trailside fix process is absolutely maddening. Will be buying this $5 insurance policy for all of my tubeless wheels for the rest of forever.
For some years now I've run a strip of Velox rim tape to cover the spoke holes and then tubeless tape over the top. Saved me from having to ride a flat all the way down a few times. I use 16mm Velox iirc on my Reserve 30 and 31|DH.
Cush core pro also had a way of pushing poor or grippy rim tapes around too. So I use the gorilla tape base, kinda narrow just enough to cover holes , then a slippier tape like dt Swiss yellow stuff over the top of that. So far so good on three wheelsets …
One thing that's desirable about the Foes method pictured here is that when the progression comes from the spring instead of from the leverage rate, it...
One thing that's desirable about the Foes method pictured here is that when the progression comes from the spring instead of from the leverage rate, it doesn't spike or slow the shaft speed at various positions in the shock travel, which can adversely change the damping feel at various points in the travel.
One downside is that it's a whole mess of springs you need to have on hand to sort through until you find your desired ride height and suspension feel. In the case of this Foes they're also expensive titanium springs. My suspicion is that 99% of riders won't bother and will be on the wrong spring rate from day one, because it's harder, more expensive, and more time consuming than adjusting an air shock with shock pump or volume reducers. Which 50% of riders won't bother with, either.
And then next thing you know there’ll be position sensitive damping and I’ll be sitting here wondering why so much complexity has been added all to...
And then next thing you know there’ll be position sensitive damping and I’ll be sitting here wondering why so much complexity has been added all to solve something easily doable with a linkage.
Springs in series result in a crazy low initial spring rate unless you’ve got at least one very stiff spring in there. Half of what they help with in off road applications doesn’t apply to bikes at all. In theory it does let you pick an initial sprint rate, final spring rate, and transition point, but without winding your own springs the customization available is surprisingly limited.
How about spring in parallel? With the new progression flip chips in yeti/trek, there may be an opportunity to run a coil and air shock in parallel provided you could make a linkage with two trunnion mounts and a dual mount flip chip in the lower shock mount. That would be truly the best of both worlds.
How about spring in parallel? With the new progression flip chips in yeti/trek, there may be an opportunity to run a coil and air shock in...
How about spring in parallel? With the new progression flip chips in yeti/trek, there may be an opportunity to run a coil and air shock in parallel provided you could make a linkage with two trunnion mounts and a dual mount flip chip in the lower shock mount. That would be truly the best of both worlds.
Looks like the rumors of the specialized chisel discontinuation were not right, the 2027 version has shown up on the nz website and a few retailers here with the new colourways
For some years now I've run a strip of Velox rim tape to cover the spoke holes and then tubeless tape over the top. Saved me...
For some years now I've run a strip of Velox rim tape to cover the spoke holes and then tubeless tape over the top. Saved me from having to ride a flat all the way down a few times. I use 16mm Velox iirc on my Reserve 30 and 31|DH.
I have an irrational affection for Velox tape. I use it for every tubed wheel I’ve used. Never thought to use it for spoke poke protection!
For some years now I've run a strip of Velox rim tape to cover the spoke holes and then tubeless tape over the top. Saved me...
For some years now I've run a strip of Velox rim tape to cover the spoke holes and then tubeless tape over the top. Saved me from having to ride a flat all the way down a few times. I use 16mm Velox iirc on my Reserve 30 and 31|DH.
I have an irrational affection for Velox tape. I use it for every tubed wheel I’ve used. Never thought to use it for spoke poke protection!
I run a 12mm strip of Gorilla Tape over the tubeless tape to stop spoke puncture. Reenforces the spoke hole while eliminating the irritating Gorilla Tape removal from the rim. Does make mounting fresh tires a bit harder since it nixes a mm or two from the rim's tire drop channel, but on the plus side the tire pops into place with any floor pump because of that increase in diameter. Picked up the tip from a UK site after a pal had a spoke pop through on a ride then a week later had it happen on my roadish bike. Definitely cheaper than the rim strip I designed and had quoted.
For some years now I've run a strip of Velox rim tape to cover the spoke holes and then tubeless tape over the top. Saved me...
For some years now I've run a strip of Velox rim tape to cover the spoke holes and then tubeless tape over the top. Saved me from having to ride a flat all the way down a few times. I use 16mm Velox iirc on my Reserve 30 and 31|DH.
I run a 12mm strip of Gorilla Tape over the tubeless tape to stop spoke puncture. Reenforces the spoke hole while eliminating the irritating Gorilla Tape...
I run a 12mm strip of Gorilla Tape over the tubeless tape to stop spoke puncture. Reenforces the spoke hole while eliminating the irritating Gorilla Tape removal from the rim. Does make mounting fresh tires a bit harder since it nixes a mm or two from the rim's tire drop channel, but on the plus side the tire pops into place with any floor pump because of that increase in diameter. Picked up the tip from a UK site after a pal had a spoke pop through on a ride then a week later had it happen on my roadish bike. Definitely cheaper than the rim strip I designed and had quoted.
I used to do this but stopped as that extra mm is critical for mounting tires on Flow EX3 and Reserve rims. The new Schwalbe Radials are not easy to mount either and basically require a Cush Core Bead Bro. (The previous gen radials weren’t bad though) I just check my spokes periodically and if ones broken, try to bend it around another or unscrew it from the nipple if I have my pliers. If all else fails I carry a Tubolito tube which is so small and light it could fit in your pocket. I don’t see them talked about much in the core MTB circles but Tubolitos are fantastic and have saved me from flats on tubed rental bikes more than once.
I should have specified that building between the Hope hub and the Oneup hub the 4mm would be lost in the noise. There are other factors...
I should have specified that building between the Hope hub and the Oneup hub the 4mm would be lost in the noise. There are other factors at play with wheel systems one of which is the PCD, which hope has the leg up on with a larger PCD resulting in shorter spokes, which helps with the bracing angle and in general, shorter spokes = stiffer wheel. If you run the numbers between the oneup hub and the pro5 you gain 10% in lateral stiffness with less radial and torsional stiffness, ~3%. Overall wheel strength when looking at the combined metrics of lateral, radial and torsional stiffness, you are gaining maybe 5% in overall strength.
If you can feel that in your wheels, bravo, I most definitely can't and I bet very few people could. It's equivalent to going from a 1.8 to a 1.75mm spoke.
FWIW Dr Mathew Ford wrote a very comprehensive paper for his Ph.d thesis on the mechanics and optimization of the bicycle wheel.
I used to have a book by Jobst Brandt sp? called The Bicycle Wheel that covers all of the math. Loaned it to an engineering student cyclist and never saw it again.
I used to have a book by Jobst Brandt sp? called The Bicycle Wheel that covers all of the math. Loaned it to an engineering student...
I used to have a book by Jobst Brandt sp? called The Bicycle Wheel that covers all of the math. Loaned it to an engineering student cyclist and never saw it again.
Anyone ever flat from spokes poking through the rim tape? Recently happened to me- DT Swiss FR560 32H- smashed very hard on something- got 2x holes...
Anyone ever flat from spokes poking through the rim tape? Recently happened to me- DT Swiss FR560 32H- smashed very hard on something- got 2x holes from spokes poking up through the rim tape. DH tire and cushcore.
I'm guessing the ghetto tubeless tube would have saved me but installation with a cushcore would be impossible.
Anyone ever flat from spokes poking through the rim tape? Recently happened to me- DT Swiss FR560 32H- smashed very hard on something- got 2x holes from spokes poking up through the rim tape. DH tire and cushcore.
I'm guessing the ghetto tubeless tube would have saved me but installation with a cushcore would be impossible.
Yes, but when the head of the spoke broke and essentially the whole spoke with the nipple pushed through the rim.
And yes the ghetto tubeless would prevent that.
Also I have spoke hole plastic covers from aliexpress at home and was thinking about trying out plugging the holes backed up with a strong sealant on the seam. Haven't gotten around to it yet though.
great for racing, not great for playing. Nothing plows quite like a super high pivot, but they can be hard to generate speed on flatter terrain. I won't pretend to understand what the I-Track patent actually covers, but it looks like it may infringe on the patent based on the fact that the idler is independently mobile from the frame.
I-Track does hold a European Union patent, hopefully somebody who can read through the patent more thoroughly can explain further.
Happened on my light bicycle rims on my xc hardtail. I attributed it to the lack of suspension and cheap Chinese flexy rims, good to know it has happened to others.
Siick dual rate spring from Mojo Suspension (EXT UK) on this TR11
Would be so good if something like this made it to production. Would blow all of the so called adjustable/progressive springs out of the water
Discussed on page 177
One more reason to consider BERD spokes.
Never.
Heavy, commodity parts are what I need.
Then carry on.
These have been rapidly gaining popularity in the XC world, with top places at the last Olympics. I think they now have a heavier duty version advertised for enduro. Has anyone seen them in EDR or DH events yet?
Edit: Google says no.
Pretty common issue AFAIK, from both being a mechanic back in the day to riding lots and testing new product all the time. WTB resolves this issue with a designed-in rim liner that sits perfectly in a channel. Tubeless tape goes over this. At home, I use either gorilla tape or my personal preference, the old school 8934 filament tape (not the cloth variety) that's been used on wheels since time immemorial.
Haven't read it, but here's the link if anyone's curious: https://arch.library.northwestern.edu/downloads/fb4948624
Im pretty sure that’s what Jesse was racing at the Whistler enduro the other day
Thank you for alerting me to this product. Yes I've also had spokes break and poke through my rim tape, and with Cushcore installed the trailside fix process is absolutely maddening. Will be buying this $5 insurance policy for all of my tubeless wheels for the rest of forever.
I usually do one layer of electrical tape, wide enough to cover the spoke holes, then tubeless tape on top, that helps prevent spokes poking through
For some years now I've run a strip of Velox rim tape to cover the spoke holes and then tubeless tape over the top. Saved me from having to ride a flat all the way down a few times. I use 16mm Velox iirc on my Reserve 30 and 31|DH.
Cush core pro also had a way of pushing poor or grippy rim tapes around too. So I use the gorilla tape base, kinda narrow just enough to cover holes , then a slippier tape like dt Swiss yellow stuff over the top of that. So far so good on three wheelsets …
It’s a different layout than previous Wilson for sure.
Curious to hear about it tho.
DH bikes are the bomb.
My mistake.
Thanks for reminding me why I don’t read or post on this forum anymore.
How about spring in parallel? With the new progression flip chips in yeti/trek, there may be an opportunity to run a coil and air shock in parallel provided you could make a linkage with two trunnion mounts and a dual mount flip chip in the lower shock mount. That would be truly the best of both worlds.
https://www.canecreek.com/products/tigon
Looks like the rumors of the specialized chisel discontinuation were not right, the 2027 version has shown up on the nz website and a few retailers here with the new colourways
https://www.specialized.com/nz/en/chisel-comp/p/4291036?color=5478368-4291036
looks to be the same as the 2026 on specification wise.
I have an irrational affection for Velox tape. I use it for every tubed wheel I’ve used. Never thought to use it for spoke poke protection!
I run a 12mm strip of Gorilla Tape over the tubeless tape to stop spoke puncture. Reenforces the spoke hole while eliminating the irritating Gorilla Tape removal from the rim. Does make mounting fresh tires a bit harder since it nixes a mm or two from the rim's tire drop channel, but on the plus side the tire pops into place with any floor pump because of that increase in diameter. Picked up the tip from a UK site after a pal had a spoke pop through on a ride then a week later had it happen on my roadish bike. Definitely cheaper than the rim strip I designed and had quoted.
I can't tell what it is, it's a bit blurry
I used to do this but stopped as that extra mm is critical for mounting tires on Flow EX3 and Reserve rims. The new Schwalbe Radials are not easy to mount either and basically require a Cush Core Bead Bro. (The previous gen radials weren’t bad though) I just check my spokes periodically and if ones broken, try to bend it around another or unscrew it from the nipple if I have my pliers. If all else fails I carry a Tubolito tube which is so small and light it could fit in your pocket. I don’t see them talked about much in the core MTB circles but Tubolitos are fantastic and have saved me from flats on tubed rental bikes more than once.
I used to have a book by Jobst Brandt sp? called The Bicycle Wheel that covers all of the math. Loaned it to an engineering student cyclist and never saw it again.
FYI, it's all over the internet in .PDF form.
I call it Dental Dam Tec![]()
hnology.
Hit em with the DDT. By far the best solution.
Run these reusable plugs under your rim tape.
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