MTB Tech Rumors and Innovation

I will say I like having that little bit of extra climbing angle available on demand more than I thought I would. I’m looking forward to testing this new version to see if it will do exactly what I want from it (which is just a few degrees of help on the climbs, really…).

It's very useful if you ride steep both up and down. More efficient uphill position so you don't have to fight to not slip back on the saddle. On the way down it provides extra clearance so it's like having a longer dropper. 

It’s an upgrade that gives you free watts on steep climbs and makes your bike look super cool when parked with it tilted back. What’s not hype about that?

I put a switchgrade on all of my bikes. My climbs are fire roads and then straight down descents. I use 240 droppers and this usually. I can tolerate 210 with one of these on hikes with bad insertion. I’m in the desert for a few months and I’ve changed it to be flat, tilted for dh, and tilted for lots of dh. It’s not for everyone and every trail, but I’ve never regretted the purchase and find it useful nearly everywhere 

I put one on all of my enduro bikes.  Anyone that I've ever met that used one has been a huge advocate.  When asked about difference making products in regards to improving my experience it is one of the very few things that I recommend without any caveats.  I thought it was a gimmick and was given my first one as a gift.  I've now bought several additional ones, both as gifts for additional bikes.  Great product but I'm interested to see how the new version is better.  I actually prefer the two position setting on the ones I have with it but if one didn't have a long enough dropper than the three position one would make a ton of sense.  Either way, I've ordered the new one as well and look forward to trying it out.

Without any experience on one of the things, this is what I imagined the ideal use case would be.  Up and down terrain? Too much of a faff, unless some bougie remote version appears.  Winch and plummet? Perfect, and more perfect the steeper it gets.

90% of my rides are winch and plummet. I set my saddle angle for climbing, and I don't sit on it for the descents. Why would I need my saddle to be tipped back if I'm not sitting on it?

Because its fucking cool looking

With a saddle angled nose up, it is much easier to move the bike around underneath you and get your butt more towards the rear axle. 

Don’t believe me, that’s fine. Look at all the World Cup bikes or even bikes at a local dh race. 

I don’t love the idea of buying something else additional for my already expensive bike(s). I did try this though with a bike that has a 210 dropper, but needed a 240. It now makes it much more rideable and keeps me from having to slam the seat when things get steep going down. Without having to buy another seat post.  

switch grade is awesome, but the handling it is not perfect. someone needs to develop a method to adjust it from the handlebar

Make it spring loaded too so it snaps into the nose-up position when you hit a lever next to your dropper while standing. Press the lever again and sit down to level the saddle back out. 

Kinda sounds like specialized should revisit their dropper post and make it longer travel... 

Let’s hope they follow this thread 😜

With integration for electric remotes from sram and Shimano and Fox and wheeltop and Magura and KS and…

But pls make it move like modern car seats!

I had the same situation two months ago and was wondering what kept you from selling the 210 and buying a 240 mm dropper.

I sold the 210 while it was still new and added €30 to get the 240 on sale. Sure, I was lucky to find a good deal, but the cost to upgrade to a 240 isn’t dramatic at all.

sometimes you are limited by max insertion depth of the frame?

obviously...

What I was trying to find out is whether there’s any reason, besides limited insertion depth, to choose the Switch grade over the longer dropper.

I have a trail bike with 170mm drop and no switchgrade.  I also have an enduro bike with a 160mm drop with a switchgrade that was limited by insertion depth.  I'm shorter so these lengths are good for me.

The switchgrade probably won't make you faster, but it will provide more comfort.  Ask yourself "do I ever get a numb taint climbing?" If the answer is yes, the Switchgrade will help. 

The Switchgrade provides an excellent seated position when tipped down the 10% on steeper prolonged climbs, but sometimes I feel that is too much.  If the climb is <8% grade I don't use it.  Tipped forward it lets you settle in better and I do miss it at times on the trail bike.  Does it make me faster?  Probably not, but it is undeniably more comfortable.   

Descending tilted back it can provide more clearance but it can be a bit clumsy if you have climbs on the descent.  I find the clearance is better for "ninja moves" and does feel like 10-20mm more drop.  But when you need to put it up, taking a hand off and resetting it can be a clumsy.  If I was enduro racing I probably wouldn't see it as a performance benefit, but for tech riding it gives you more to move around.  

The new pro saddle looks like great additions for application on a trail bike.  I likely would do the 5 down and 10 down climbing positions and maybe not do the tail tilt if I can keep the 170mm.  But I think its great it gives you plenty of options to try for different applications.  Its a toss up if I had to trade 170mm for 160mm drop if I would get it or not.  It hasn't been something that I've thought "I need that on every bike", but I do really enjoy it when I'm using it, especially long climbs.

A few thoughts on switchgrade.

I also agree when gradients are mellow (non-granny gear climbs), it doesn't prove much benefit (or too much of a benefit).

But the biggest reason why the switchgrade has been worth it for me was to alleviate back pain. My hips and spine are in a much more neutral position and whether it's causation or correlation, I've had a full year of riding without back pain after I've ridden with a switchgrade, which is a first in a while. 

Think about how all proper dirt jumpers and DH bikes have the nose up? When your saddle is lower your hips rotate so that a more leaned back saddle meets up more comfortably with your junk/hips instead of making a pressure point on your sit bones. 

Yup, plus how many XC bikes have the nose down for the climbs.  Win-win IMHO. 

I can def see the nose down benefit from climbs. 

Going the other way, doesn't it add a bunch of seat stack (for lack of better term) and cancel out the benefit of going nose up?

It’s not a sexy answer, but I was awaiting a to be released product and had to make do. Now, the switch grade is on a different bike with limited insertion depth. 

I already have my saddle nose down in the optimal position for climbs. 

I don't sit on it for the descents. 

Yes, if I didn't have a dropper and the saddle was always down, like a DJ or DH, it would be nose up. 

But I do have a dropper. 

What am I missing

Question for the Switchgrade users who adjust on the fly:  
As you’re rolling, do you go for the ass or the crotch?

Let’s not let the OG rumors thread saga end talking about folks saddle nose angle preference. 

In the nature of rumors:

- heard rumblings from a brand that makes a flex pivot XC bike of pushing the flex pivot into larger travel aka trail categories. Could be a replacement for the tallboy. Bringing the Blur LT back?

- spotted a production looking fox 40 in the wild - generative arch - regular sticker kit and gloss - new 40 and 38 release before sea otter? Back to back days like the 36 and 34sl?

FWIW, my Modus operandi is to point the seat towards the bars. Then it's just a question of the relative height of one vs. the other. 

At some point, the purpose of a system is what it actually does

What’s hiding in finale? 

That BB area?.... Rallon?