I might give these a go when they come out with the power levers
The cam for a firmer bite point has me extremely interested.
Glad to see they’re still DOT. I’m getting more and more mineral oil brakes and I find them annoying. They’re not the massive improvement that people claim.
I can get DOT fluid anywhere at any time (you can even take some from your car reservoir if you’re in a pinch), I don’t want to buy your special flavor of baby oil that you colored purple or some shit.
I also hate cleaning up mineral oil. DOT fluid is a bit nasty, but it’s soluble in water so it just washes off. Even with IPA in a spray bottle, mineral oil seems to always get stuck in crevices around brake levers and attract dirt.
Very interested in these new Hope brakes and might give them a shot next season. I like the lever options and the control version might be perfect for my riding.
With the recent changes to Trickstuff and their main HQ shutting down, I have not been happy with their customer support overall. I get redirected to the DT Swiss service center where the response times are slow compared to just a year ago. They don't seem to be as detail oriented as the original team and don't provide much if any detail to help you troubleshoot things. Getting VIP treatment was part of the cost when I bought the Maximas but that might be dwindling.
After going back and fourth for the last month I decided to pull the trigger on some T4V4’s to replace the Radic Kaha’s that I’ve been...
After going back and fourth for the last month I decided to pull the trigger on some T4V4’s to replace the Radic Kaha’s that I’ve been running for the last year. I figured my purchase should trigger some event that causes hope to release the new gravity brake causing me to have buyers remorse over the purchase for not waiting, but giving anyone else the opportunity to grab some discounted T4V4’s or the new brake… your welcome 😂.
Some initial impressions:
Last time I worked on a set of hope brakes was at least 15 years ago, and they always seemed to be shelf queens imo. I know that has changed but I’m happy to see/feel it in person. Pad retraction is pretty damn good, having struggled with mt7 for longer than I should have and coming from Kaha’s that are intolerant of any runout in rotors I’m pretty happy that these have a decent amount while still having short throw. Coming to that, the dead stroke is much much better than I was expecting, not sure if it’s exaggerated or what but with the contact point adjuster wound in for the least free/dead stroke I am measuring 14mm until the lever firms up. That’s actually very close to where I have the free stroke set on my Kaha’s, also adjustable, to maintain reliability. I will say, they have a heavier lever pull than both the Kaha’s and the Dominions, by a fair amount to the latter.
I pulled my Trickstuff pads from my Kaha’s to have a better idea of how they stop, with everything else being equal, tbh I feel like there is no difference in power other than I builds slower, more modulation, but required more lever throw to get there.
I was able to get the calipers centered on the rotors and have nearly equal piston extension front and rear. The bleed process brought back memories but I used a miniature hose clamp to secure the hose to the barb at the caliper which made it a lot easier to pull a vacuum and dislodge any bubbles in the caliper before I pulled the diaphragm and performed a push bleed from the caliper. The front brake was pretty poorly bled from the factory, the rear was perfect (based on lever feel prior to cutting the hoses) can’t wait to put some laps on them and hoping, pun intended, they solve my weird reliability issue that comes and goes with the Kaha’s…
Update:
Got a good weekend of riding in Friday-Sunday, 25miles and 19k feet of descending, would have been more if it wasnt for the snow storm on sat. Lots of laps on the old N* EWS track, TNT, along with Sticks and Boonies and I have to say I am very, very, impressed with the hopes and what I will call, a very intuitive power delivery. Funny enough, most people that grab the levers would try to squeeze them to death and commented on the "soft" feel. IMO the bite point is very defined, but the force to get to that bite is crazy low, and the force required to get to lockup is also crazy low. It takes little to no power from the hands to get the bike to a complete stop regardless of how steep the trail was. I did get to test them out on one of the pirate trails there, steepest in the park and could be described as having "Loam Dust," and was pretty impressed with how easy it was to keep the tires at the edge of grip without lockup, that is until you wanted to send a dust bomb to the guy behind you
Took zero time to get used to the feel, going back to the intuitive feel, it just seemed right. I really like the fact that I could run the levers pretty close to the bar and still have good lever clearance at full lock, not something I can do with my A4's or Xt's.
I'm really interested in the new lever design though, hoping that its just a drop-in replacement with the old cam as I am not really interested in a firmer feeling lever bite point. The TS Power pads bite plenty hard to the point that I wouldn't want any more. I was going to do some back-to-back testing with the Kaha's after I get them sorted with Radic, but at this point I'll probably toss them in the bin for a rainy day. Interested in the new GR4's, might have to move the T4V4's to the trail bike and upgrade the bigger bike this off season.
I am curious as to what shifter mounts people are using, I am running a standard clamp on my XTR shifter due to positioning with the kaha lever, but to get the T4V4 lever in the right spot I feel like I am compromising on the shifter location are folks using the hope integrated mounts? Is the range of motion pretty good? TIA!
Update: Got a good weekend of riding in Friday-Sunday, 25miles and 19k feet of descending, would have been more if it wasnt for the snow storm on...
Update:
Got a good weekend of riding in Friday-Sunday, 25miles and 19k feet of descending, would have been more if it wasnt for the snow storm on sat. Lots of laps on the old N* EWS track, TNT, along with Sticks and Boonies and I have to say I am very, very, impressed with the hopes and what I will call, a very intuitive power delivery. Funny enough, most people that grab the levers would try to squeeze them to death and commented on the "soft" feel. IMO the bite point is very defined, but the force to get to that bite is crazy low, and the force required to get to lockup is also crazy low. It takes little to no power from the hands to get the bike to a complete stop regardless of how steep the trail was. I did get to test them out on one of the pirate trails there, steepest in the park and could be described as having "Loam Dust," and was pretty impressed with how easy it was to keep the tires at the edge of grip without lockup, that is until you wanted to send a dust bomb to the guy behind you
Took zero time to get used to the feel, going back to the intuitive feel, it just seemed right. I really like the fact that I could run the levers pretty close to the bar and still have good lever clearance at full lock, not something I can do with my A4's or Xt's.
I'm really interested in the new lever design though, hoping that its just a drop-in replacement with the old cam as I am not really interested in a firmer feeling lever bite point. The TS Power pads bite plenty hard to the point that I wouldn't want any more. I was going to do some back-to-back testing with the Kaha's after I get them sorted with Radic, but at this point I'll probably toss them in the bin for a rainy day. Interested in the new GR4's, might have to move the T4V4's to the trail bike and upgrade the bigger bike this off season.
I am curious as to what shifter mounts people are using, I am running a standard clamp on my XTR shifter due to positioning with the kaha lever, but to get the T4V4 lever in the right spot I feel like I am compromising on the shifter location are folks using the hope integrated mounts? Is the range of motion pretty good? TIA!
Thanks for sharing your experience. I would highly recommend the Hope's dropper lever. It is a thing of beauty and very adjustable.
New Hope brakes are going to time it perfectly for dh season here. I'll be getting a set of the GR4 around release. Not run hopes since the Motos back in the day haha.
Very interested in these new Hope brakes and might give them a shot next season. I like the lever options and the control version might be...
Very interested in these new Hope brakes and might give them a shot next season. I like the lever options and the control version might be perfect for my riding.
With the recent changes to Trickstuff and their main HQ shutting down, I have not been happy with their customer support overall. I get redirected to the DT Swiss service center where the response times are slow compared to just a year ago. They don't seem to be as detail oriented as the original team and don't provide much if any detail to help you troubleshoot things. Getting VIP treatment was part of the cost when I bought the Maximas but that might be dwindling.
I specifically bought Intends over Trickstuff because DT Swiss closed their main office.
Have any of you run TRP 2.3mm rotors with Hayes Dominions? I need to get new rotors and the Hayes d series are oos everywhere and I don't want to use Sram rotors anymore.
Have any of you run TRP 2.3mm rotors with Hayes Dominions? I need to get new rotors and the Hayes d series are oos everywhere and...
Have any of you run TRP 2.3mm rotors with Hayes Dominions? I need to get new rotors and the Hayes d series are oos everywhere and I don't want to use Sram rotors anymore.
Yes, I have gone between the Galfer wave and the TRP SE05’s. Both work great, they are on different wheel sets currently. I will replace the galfers with TRP’s once the galfers are done. I know the frameworks team was running a mix of both, waves and sharks of which the TRP’s are a clone of last year when they were running dominions. I couldn’t tell a real difference between the two sets but the price of the TRP’s is better and they are really true and I haven’t had to touch them at all.
Alright, y'all. I recently upgraded my enduro bike from Code Rs to Code RSCs. Got a smoking deal on eBay last month and paired them with Galfer Wave 2mm thick rotors. Modulation is amazing and they're quiet.
I am left with a working set of Code Rs. My trail bike has Guide RSCs...
Not wanting to spend any more money this season, but wanting to upgrade my trail bike's brakes as I'm now at a skill level where the Guide RSCs are not ideal. I love the ergonomics, though.
If I mix the Codes and Guides together, which way should I mix them:
Alright, y'all. I recently upgraded my enduro bike from Code Rs to Code RSCs. Got a smoking deal on eBay last month and paired them with...
Alright, y'all. I recently upgraded my enduro bike from Code Rs to Code RSCs. Got a smoking deal on eBay last month and paired them with Galfer Wave 2mm thick rotors. Modulation is amazing and they're quiet.
I am left with a working set of Code Rs. My trail bike has Guide RSCs...
Not wanting to spend any more money this season, but wanting to upgrade my trail bike's brakes as I'm now at a skill level where the Guide RSCs are not ideal. I love the ergonomics, though.
If I mix the Codes and Guides together, which way should I mix them:
Guide RSC lever with Code calipers?
or
Code R lever with Guide calipers?
If they can be mixed, that I can't confrim, the RSC lever of any product group is going to be "better" than and R.
Alright, y'all. I recently upgraded my enduro bike from Code Rs to Code RSCs. Got a smoking deal on eBay last month and paired them with...
Alright, y'all. I recently upgraded my enduro bike from Code Rs to Code RSCs. Got a smoking deal on eBay last month and paired them with Galfer Wave 2mm thick rotors. Modulation is amazing and they're quiet.
I am left with a working set of Code Rs. My trail bike has Guide RSCs...
Not wanting to spend any more money this season, but wanting to upgrade my trail bike's brakes as I'm now at a skill level where the Guide RSCs are not ideal. I love the ergonomics, though.
If I mix the Codes and Guides together, which way should I mix them:
Guide RSC lever with Code calipers?
or
Code R lever with Guide calipers?
If you’re going to mix them it would be guide RSC levers on code calipers.
The guide and the code levers share a lot of the same internals. It’s one rebuild kit.
You might find that they get weird as the pads wear though. I think the Guide may have a smaller reservoir on the lever.
Alright, y'all. I recently upgraded my enduro bike from Code Rs to Code RSCs. Got a smoking deal on eBay last month and paired them with...
Alright, y'all. I recently upgraded my enduro bike from Code Rs to Code RSCs. Got a smoking deal on eBay last month and paired them with Galfer Wave 2mm thick rotors. Modulation is amazing and they're quiet.
I am left with a working set of Code Rs. My trail bike has Guide RSCs...
Not wanting to spend any more money this season, but wanting to upgrade my trail bike's brakes as I'm now at a skill level where the Guide RSCs are not ideal. I love the ergonomics, though.
If I mix the Codes and Guides together, which way should I mix them:
If you’re going to mix them it would be guide RSC levers on code calipers.The guide and the code levers share a lot of the same...
If you’re going to mix them it would be guide RSC levers on code calipers.
The guide and the code levers share a lot of the same internals. It’s one rebuild kit.
You might find that they get weird as the pads wear though. I think the Guide may have a smaller reservoir on the lever.
The Guide levers are indeed noticeable smaller than Codes. What I don' understand is why is it counter intuitive to place a lever with a larger reservoir onto smaller calipers; Why do the Guide RSC levers work better for Code calipers?
Alright, y'all. I recently upgraded my enduro bike from Code Rs to Code RSCs. Got a smoking deal on eBay last month and paired them with...
Alright, y'all. I recently upgraded my enduro bike from Code Rs to Code RSCs. Got a smoking deal on eBay last month and paired them with Galfer Wave 2mm thick rotors. Modulation is amazing and they're quiet.
I am left with a working set of Code Rs. My trail bike has Guide RSCs...
Not wanting to spend any more money this season, but wanting to upgrade my trail bike's brakes as I'm now at a skill level where the Guide RSCs are not ideal. I love the ergonomics, though.
If I mix the Codes and Guides together, which way should I mix them:
The Guide levers are indeed noticeable smaller than Codes. What I don' understand is why is it counter intuitive to place a lever with a larger...
The Guide levers are indeed noticeable smaller than Codes. What I don' understand is why is it counter intuitive to place a lever with a larger reservoir onto smaller calipers; Why do the Guide RSC levers work better for Code calipers?
Code calipers have bigger pistons for more power and a bigger pad opening for more cooling if I’m remembering right. I run Code R with 200mm 2mm thick Magura rotors on my hardtail and they work pretty good. Not as good as the MT7 setup did with the same rotors… but it’s what I got right now.
Alright, y'all. I recently upgraded my enduro bike from Code Rs to Code RSCs. Got a smoking deal on eBay last month and paired them with...
Alright, y'all. I recently upgraded my enduro bike from Code Rs to Code RSCs. Got a smoking deal on eBay last month and paired them with Galfer Wave 2mm thick rotors. Modulation is amazing and they're quiet.
I am left with a working set of Code Rs. My trail bike has Guide RSCs...
Not wanting to spend any more money this season, but wanting to upgrade my trail bike's brakes as I'm now at a skill level where the Guide RSCs are not ideal. I love the ergonomics, though.
If I mix the Codes and Guides together, which way should I mix them:
The Guide levers are indeed noticeable smaller than Codes. What I don' understand is why is it counter intuitive to place a lever with a larger...
The Guide levers are indeed noticeable smaller than Codes. What I don' understand is why is it counter intuitive to place a lever with a larger reservoir onto smaller calipers; Why do the Guide RSC levers work better for Code calipers?
You'd be pairing a lever with a smaller reservoir with a bigger caliper - because of the larger pistons, the Code requires a bigger oil volume as the pads wear. Might be that there is not enough of this oil in the guide lever. Thanks for this info @Nobble, never really thought about what the difference is but I did know the piston is the same across both.
As to why you want to pair the RSC lever with Code calipers, the RSC lever has the swing link which makes the lever pull to piston movement non linear - a lot of movement of the piston in the freestroke part (to have good pad retraction) and then very little piston movement when you have pad to rotor contact for more power. RSC levered brakes are a more powerful than R brakes.
Wasn't the Guide RE a Guide R lever combined with a Code-sized caliper? I never tried them but I remember reading a lot of (relatively) positive reviews. If so that kind of setup works well enough.
Wasn't the Guide RE a Guide R lever combined with a Code-sized caliper? I never tried them but I remember reading a lot of (relatively) positive...
Wasn't the Guide RE a Guide R lever combined with a Code-sized caliper? I never tried them but I remember reading a lot of (relatively) positive reviews. If so that kind of setup works well enough.
Correct, previous gen code caliper and were touted as a E-bike brake option. They were okay, not bad but not great either.
Wasn't the Guide RE a Guide R lever combined with a Code-sized caliper? I never tried them but I remember reading a lot of (relatively) positive...
Wasn't the Guide RE a Guide R lever combined with a Code-sized caliper? I never tried them but I remember reading a lot of (relatively) positive reviews. If so that kind of setup works well enough.
@TimBud couldn’t post the picture in the comments, and here could interest more, lever blades on the Evo Tech 4 are not backward compatible with Tech4 masters due to different cam design
Wasn't the Guide RE a Guide R lever combined with a Code-sized caliper? I never tried them but I remember reading a lot of (relatively) positive...
Wasn't the Guide RE a Guide R lever combined with a Code-sized caliper? I never tried them but I remember reading a lot of (relatively) positive reviews. If so that kind of setup works well enough.
Ah, well there's the answer. Thanks! AND apparently the Guide RE used the most basic Guide lever, where I'll be using RSC levers, should be a blast.But...
Ah, well there's the answer. Thanks!
AND apparently the Guide RE used the most basic Guide lever, where I'll be using RSC levers, should be a blast.
But, will a Code banjo bolt fit through the current banjo on the Guide hose?
Code banjo bolt:
Guide/G2 Banjo bolt
This is what immediately came to mind. It's been a long time, but if I remember correctly I think the banjo fittings are different for Code and Guide calipers. But as long as you keep the original hose with the caliper, you'll be fine as far as connecting different master cylinders to the hose/caliper.
Wasn't the Guide RE a Guide R lever combined with a Code-sized caliper? I never tried them but I remember reading a lot of (relatively) positive...
Wasn't the Guide RE a Guide R lever combined with a Code-sized caliper? I never tried them but I remember reading a lot of (relatively) positive reviews. If so that kind of setup works well enough.
Old Code caliper which possibly means less piston travel (as the new one is bled with pistons slightly extended) and thus needing less oil volume in the master.
Old Code caliper which possibly means less piston travel (as the new one is bled with pistons slightly extended) and thus needing less oil volume in...
Old Code caliper which possibly means less piston travel (as the new one is bled with pistons slightly extended) and thus needing less oil volume in the master.
Simply bleed the brake with the rotor and pads in place. It will work fine I'm very sure.
It sucks to buy a new bike part that has problems or doesn't live up to expectations. I use galfer red pads in my gravel bike and there are always circles worn into them where the paint has come off but it doesn't seem to have any impact on the brake's performance. If you don't like the paint coming off then Hope's sintered pads are not painted and work really well, particularly if you value consistency and lifetime over maximum power.
Out of interest are you planning to use something else than silicon grease to lube the pistons? In my experience the pistons need some lubrication to keep the brakes functioning well and I use Avid dot grease for this because I can't get Hope's recommended lube where I live.
Old Code caliper which possibly means less piston travel (as the new one is bled with pistons slightly extended) and thus needing less oil volume in...
Old Code caliper which possibly means less piston travel (as the new one is bled with pistons slightly extended) and thus needing less oil volume in the master.
Simply bleed the brake with the rotor and pads in place. It will work fine I'm very sure.
I would suspect pushing the pistons back in could be a 'problem' vs. normal operation (not sure if you would really need to push them back in anyway...). The bleed block is about the same as bleeding with pads and rotor place (if both are more or less unused).
I'm currently rebuilding/tweaking my nomad ready for the annual morzine trip, on inspection both v4 calipers are leaking on the inner big piston-so slight though but it's worried me enough to buy a rebuild kit-is this a known issue? The brakes are crazy good, 220mm magura discs on uberbikes eeb pads.
Alright, Code calipers added to the end of Guide RSC lever and hose. Banjo bolt works fine. Running stock160mm rotor so banjo bolt sits super close to spokes. Once I get a 180 rotor it should have more clearance.
That aside, I tried twice to bleed it and the lever goes straight to the bar. I got my Code RSCs on my other bike feeling firm and awesome, and the front line is still the Guide RSC and that feels good, but I’m not sure what’s going on here. Bleed like Code or Guide?
Pad contact dial was all the way out per instructions. Performed a piston massage to get them all moving evenly.
Hmm, I think I found why… my lever syringe was still pulling a vacuum when I picked it up to put it away, so I don’t think I let the system equalize when i unscrewed it.
I've got a Mondraker Crafty E bike with Shimano XT brakes (standard pads and 203 centre lock discs). After long steep descents at the weekend, the brakes were cooked. Levers pulling closer to the bars and brake fade was more than present. What's the best solution to improve this (apart from braking less)?
Changing to an e-bike specific pad like the purple Galfers?
Changing to 220/223 discs and 2.0mm rotors rather than the 203mm 1.8mm ones?
Or a combination of both?
Fresh mineral oil in the brakes so that doesn't need changing. Thanks for any suggestions.
The cam for a firmer bite point has me extremely interested.
Glad to see they’re still DOT. I’m getting more and more mineral oil brakes and I find them annoying. They’re not the massive improvement that people claim.
I can get DOT fluid anywhere at any time (you can even take some from your car reservoir if you’re in a pinch), I don’t want to buy your special flavor of baby oil that you colored purple or some shit.
I also hate cleaning up mineral oil. DOT fluid is a bit nasty, but it’s soluble in water so it just washes off. Even with IPA in a spray bottle, mineral oil seems to always get stuck in crevices around brake levers and attract dirt.
Very interested in these new Hope brakes and might give them a shot next season. I like the lever options and the control version might be perfect for my riding.
With the recent changes to Trickstuff and their main HQ shutting down, I have not been happy with their customer support overall. I get redirected to the DT Swiss service center where the response times are slow compared to just a year ago. They don't seem to be as detail oriented as the original team and don't provide much if any detail to help you troubleshoot things. Getting VIP treatment was part of the cost when I bought the Maximas but that might be dwindling.
Update:
Got a good weekend of riding in Friday-Sunday, 25miles and 19k feet of descending, would have been more if it wasnt for the snow storm on sat. Lots of laps on the old N* EWS track, TNT, along with Sticks and Boonies and I have to say I am very, very, impressed with the hopes and what I will call, a very intuitive power delivery. Funny enough, most people that grab the levers would try to squeeze them to death and commented on the "soft" feel. IMO the bite point is very defined, but the force to get to that bite is crazy low, and the force required to get to lockup is also crazy low. It takes little to no power from the hands to get the bike to a complete stop regardless of how steep the trail was. I did get to test them out on one of the pirate trails there, steepest in the park and could be described as having "Loam Dust," and was pretty impressed with how easy it was to keep the tires at the edge of grip without lockup, that is until you wanted to send a dust bomb to the guy behind you
Took zero time to get used to the feel, going back to the intuitive feel, it just seemed right. I really like the fact that I could run the levers pretty close to the bar and still have good lever clearance at full lock, not something I can do with my A4's or Xt's.
I'm really interested in the new lever design though, hoping that its just a drop-in replacement with the old cam as I am not really interested in a firmer feeling lever bite point. The TS Power pads bite plenty hard to the point that I wouldn't want any more. I was going to do some back-to-back testing with the Kaha's after I get them sorted with Radic, but at this point I'll probably toss them in the bin for a rainy day. Interested in the new GR4's, might have to move the T4V4's to the trail bike and upgrade the bigger bike this off season.
I am curious as to what shifter mounts people are using, I am running a standard clamp on my XTR shifter due to positioning with the kaha lever, but to get the T4V4 lever in the right spot I feel like I am compromising on the shifter location are folks using the hope integrated mounts? Is the range of motion pretty good? TIA!
Thanks for sharing your experience. I would highly recommend the Hope's dropper lever. It is a thing of beauty and very adjustable.
is there any document where they state piston sizes? couldn't find anything
From one of the UK sites:
New Hope brakes are going to time it perfectly for dh season here. I'll be getting a set of the GR4 around release. Not run hopes since the Motos back in the day haha.
I specifically bought Intends over Trickstuff because DT Swiss closed their main office.
thats great, not that they need any more power, but nice, great to see the lever will be even more smooth and light
Have any of you run TRP 2.3mm rotors with Hayes Dominions? I need to get new rotors and the Hayes d series are oos everywhere and I don't want to use Sram rotors anymore.
Yes, I have gone between the Galfer wave and the TRP SE05’s. Both work great, they are on different wheel sets currently. I will replace the galfers with TRP’s once the galfers are done. I know the frameworks team was running a mix of both, waves and sharks of which the TRP’s are a clone of last year when they were running dominions. I couldn’t tell a real difference between the two sets but the price of the TRP’s is better and they are really true and I haven’t had to touch them at all.
Alright, y'all. I recently upgraded my enduro bike from Code Rs to Code RSCs. Got a smoking deal on eBay last month and paired them with Galfer Wave 2mm thick rotors. Modulation is amazing and they're quiet.
I am left with a working set of Code Rs. My trail bike has Guide RSCs...
Not wanting to spend any more money this season, but wanting to upgrade my trail bike's brakes as I'm now at a skill level where the Guide RSCs are not ideal. I love the ergonomics, though.
If I mix the Codes and Guides together, which way should I mix them:
Guide RSC lever with Code calipers?
or
Code R lever with Guide calipers?
If they can be mixed, that I can't confrim, the RSC lever of any product group is going to be "better" than and R.
If you’re going to mix them it would be guide RSC levers on code calipers.
The guide and the code levers share a lot of the same internals. It’s one rebuild kit.
You might find that they get weird as the pads wear though. I think the Guide may have a smaller reservoir on the lever.
The Guide levers are indeed noticeable smaller than Codes. What I don' understand is why is it counter intuitive to place a lever with a larger reservoir onto smaller calipers; Why do the Guide RSC levers work better for Code calipers?
Code calipers have bigger pistons for more power and a bigger pad opening for more cooling if I’m remembering right. I run Code R with 200mm 2mm thick Magura rotors on my hardtail and they work pretty good. Not as good as the MT7 setup did with the same rotors… but it’s what I got right now.
You'd be pairing a lever with a smaller reservoir with a bigger caliper - because of the larger pistons, the Code requires a bigger oil volume as the pads wear. Might be that there is not enough of this oil in the guide lever. Thanks for this info @Nobble, never really thought about what the difference is but I did know the piston is the same across both.
As to why you want to pair the RSC lever with Code calipers, the RSC lever has the swing link which makes the lever pull to piston movement non linear - a lot of movement of the piston in the freestroke part (to have good pad retraction) and then very little piston movement when you have pad to rotor contact for more power. RSC levered brakes are a more powerful than R brakes.
Wasn't the Guide RE a Guide R lever combined with a Code-sized caliper? I never tried them but I remember reading a lot of (relatively) positive reviews. If so that kind of setup works well enough.
Correct, previous gen code caliper and were touted as a E-bike brake option. They were okay, not bad but not great either.
Ah, well there's the answer. Thanks!
AND apparently the Guide RE used the most basic Guide lever, where I'll be using RSC levers, should be a blast.
But, will a Code banjo bolt fit through the current banjo on the Guide hose?
Code banjo bolt:
Guide/G2 Banjo bolt
@TimBud couldn’t post the picture in the comments, and here could interest more, lever blades on the Evo Tech 4 are not backward compatible with Tech4 masters due to different cam design
This is what immediately came to mind. It's been a long time, but if I remember correctly I think the banjo fittings are different for Code and Guide calipers. But as long as you keep the original hose with the caliper, you'll be fine as far as connecting different master cylinders to the hose/caliper.
Old Code caliper which possibly means less piston travel (as the new one is bled with pistons slightly extended) and thus needing less oil volume in the master.
Simply bleed the brake with the rotor and pads in place. It will work fine I'm very sure.
It sucks to buy a new bike part that has problems or doesn't live up to expectations. I use galfer red pads in my gravel bike and there are always circles worn into them where the paint has come off but it doesn't seem to have any impact on the brake's performance. If you don't like the paint coming off then Hope's sintered pads are not painted and work really well, particularly if you value consistency and lifetime over maximum power.
Out of interest are you planning to use something else than silicon grease to lube the pistons? In my experience the pistons need some lubrication to keep the brakes functioning well and I use Avid dot grease for this because I can't get Hope's recommended lube where I live.
I would suspect pushing the pistons back in could be a 'problem' vs. normal operation (not sure if you would really need to push them back in anyway...). The bleed block is about the same as bleeding with pads and rotor place (if both are more or less unused).
But this is just guessing.
I'm currently rebuilding/tweaking my nomad ready for the annual morzine trip, on inspection both v4 calipers are leaking on the inner big piston-so slight though but it's worried me enough to buy a rebuild kit-is this a known issue? The brakes are crazy good, 220mm magura discs on uberbikes eeb pads.
Alright, Code calipers added to the end of Guide RSC lever and hose. Banjo bolt works fine. Running stock160mm rotor so banjo bolt sits super close to spokes. Once I get a 180 rotor it should have more clearance.
That aside, I tried twice to bleed it and the lever goes straight to the bar. I got my Code RSCs on my other bike feeling firm and awesome, and the front line is still the Guide RSC and that feels good, but I’m not sure what’s going on here. Bleed like Code or Guide?
Pad contact dial was all the way out per instructions. Performed a piston massage to get them all moving evenly.
Hmm, I think I found why… my lever syringe was still pulling a vacuum when I picked it up to put it away, so I don’t think I let the system equalize when i unscrewed it.
Guess there’s tomorrow…
I've got a Mondraker Crafty E bike with Shimano XT brakes (standard pads and 203 centre lock discs). After long steep descents at the weekend, the brakes were cooked. Levers pulling closer to the bars and brake fade was more than present. What's the best solution to improve this (apart from braking less)?
Changing to an e-bike specific pad like the purple Galfers?
Changing to 220/223 discs and 2.0mm rotors rather than the 203mm 1.8mm ones?
Or a combination of both?
Fresh mineral oil in the brakes so that doesn't need changing. Thanks for any suggestions.
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