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Some of you never rode when we had no clutches so the loose, flopping chain smashed against every part of your aluminum bike and the fork knocked in the 1 1/8th head tubes and then echoed through your monocoque frame and it shows.
I can barely hear my current bike compared to the 3rd grade marching bands on wheels we used to ride pre-2012. I didn't even know you could hear what your tires were doing for the first 10 years I rode.
I did. But I still expect better. We are talking five figure bikes that can be solved with some clamps and mastic tape or a little oval thing. Why is that left to the customers to figure out where it goes?
My $8000 bike I bought a year ago with a clutch derailleur still sounds like garbage so I think they still need to work on it.
Agree. I think running a chainguide with a lower roller helps a ton, it eliminates a lot of metallic clinking noise of the chain tapping on the chainring as it bounces around.
STFU guides. They actually work. They also help with the mythical pedal kickback.
External cables with proper guides/clamps.
Lastly a silent rear hub.
But none of it really matters when you ride solo with earbuds in 90% of the time.
Guess I found the new Levo Alloy in the wild. With a S-Works motor.
I’m more confused on why they’re running xts with centerlines
i guess parts bin build, maybe to not attract attention?
I'm more curious about the new bike rack that mounts to the front wheel of a car.
Is it available for older 4 bolt hubs?
Normal rack 4 bolts, S-Works rack 5 bolts.
That's either a new model or a test mule! Nice spot!
This one goes to class 11.
New TR11 build kits, colors, geo and kinematic updates on Transition's website
https://www.transitionbikes.com/Bikes_TR11.cfm
What do you mean, refined? It’s the exact same thing as it was before. All they did was just choose two different colors.
really cool data logging/bike setup post using a jekyll - https://www.vitalmtb.com/forums/hub/case-study-jekyll-dh-data-logging-s…
I think the only difference is that the head angle got steeped by just one degree
My issue with my Rocky Mountain Altitude is actually that the Sram eagle axs rear deraillieur b-screw will violently slap against the hanger and make really loud clanking sounds. I've taken slow motion videos to confirm this - chain never makes contact with the frame. Has anyone solved this?
In terms of rumors and speculation, I imagine that bike manufacturers could make a silent bike but the effort involved wouldn't translate to increased sales.
It’s probably just because it comes to the boxer, which is a different height than a 40. They also could have changed the spec to look better to consumers without changing the actual geo (lot of brands do this lol) everything else looks the same but head tube angle Or the person entering the data on the website coulda messed up lol
Speaking of rumors and tr-11 I saw a recently sponsored kiwi rider bouncing around on a “new” one. Dig around and there’s some pics of it some pages back.
look up the hall lock mod. seems like a well-kept secret. havent done it yet but it seems to be the answer for a lot of us.
Yep, solved if I'm understanding you correctly. Hall-lock mod so the b-pivot can't rotate. File the X01 b-bushing down slightly, a little bit at a time (test, file, test, file) until the derailleur can't rotate at the bolt.
If you've got a GX there's no bushing to modify, it's a crappy steel-on-aluminum design that suffers from premature wearification. The X01 b-bolt with bushing is around $30 USD and works perfectly on the GX so get that and do the mod.
Your rear wheel will be slightly harder to remove as the derailleur doesn't pivot out of the way. But it's not too hard to get it off, easier than what we used to deal with back in the early '00s.
I really, really need to make a video about this mod, it's absolutely worth doing to silence the derailleur and it makes shifting nice and crispy, particularly on played-out GX derailleurs.
Does SRAM do the hall lock mod different than shimano? Shimano you just put a washer between the B screw bumper and the derailleur so that it bottoms out when you tighten it. To get your wheel off, just loosen your derailleur. Pic of shimano for reference. Insert 1-2mm plastic washer where red line is. I didn’t remove the c clip and b screw bumper, I just cut my washer so I could open it and slide it in there.
What about just affixing a piece of plastic or something where the b-gap screw touches the hanger, so that when it smacks against it, it's damped?
Dude, Rali chain mag!! I’ll plug it if you won’t haha. I have it on two bikes and it works amazingly well
Welcome to the wild and wonderful world of the bike industry, where you get worked to death and paid next to nothing, but there are literal piles of new and lightly used parts, even parts falling out the cracks of the building. What parts are you running? Whatever's in the pile. At least until you get laid off next week.
100% accurate
Quite often running used parts off returned/warrantied bikes that can't be resold. I've got a lot of kit that way.
Hilarious, sad and true
please do make that video, i miss my 1st oem GX eagle derailleur, it was silent as until it gave up, i had both xt and a new gx and they slap so much more, nothing else has changed, i'm thinking to go ViVo but damn it's an expensive piece of component, while for sure worth it i'd rather keep the cash
There is a thread for everything: https://www.vitalmtb.com/forums/The-Hub,2/Homemade-Hall-lock-for-Sram-S…
Haven't tried Shimano, been on SRAM lately. For SRAM I looked briefly for a washer that was the right size, but didn't fine one. Rather than spend a day looking for a washer I ordered the bushing and have been happy with the results having done it a handful of times.
What kind of washer did you use for Shimano?