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Yep, that’s a different shock with different internal architecture and has different pressure requirements. New shock uses the new bladder pressure range. Older shocks will cavitate at 120psi and are to be set to 170-200psi. https://tech.dvosuspension.com/tuning/jade/bladder/ Also look at the shock in the picture that’s being discussed, bladder pressure sticker can be seen, it’s the 170-200 range.

Higher pressure puts more load on the seals, which in turn adds friction. It also pushes on the area of the shaft so with a large shaft and/or high pressure you effectively add extra preload. The difference between a low pressure, small shaft system and something with a higher spring force would be over 10kg at the shock so if you can safely reduce that its worthwhile. As for the IFP itself, a larger diameter needs to travel less for an equivalent shaft displacement compared to a smaller IFP so it can respond much quicker as well.

Compared the S1 to the S4 at the same center of gravity (650mm above BB ) and at adjusted CoG for the shortest and tallest riders on Forbidden's chart (160cm and 198cm). Turns out that Forbidden knows how to design bikes and that moving the BB on the front triangle is the way to do it. A change in CoG has a much bigger impact on kinematics than the rear center length. With that being said, there's probably a (marginal) benefit to slightly changing the main pivot height on the smaller frames to reduce the anti-squat and compensate for the...

New brake combo in the works. TRP / Oak Lever / Maven base 18/18mm caliper. Shimano BH90 lines and maxima mineral oil. I previously tried the 19.5/18mm maven caliper with these same levers, and found the lever throw to be a little excessive. I'm hoping the 18/18mm caliper reduces that a bit. The TRP levers don't suffer the pump out effect experienced with maven/shimano levers. No swing link / servowave action, just heaps of mechanical leverage on a 9mm master cylinder.

I'm here to nerd out on brakes ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

I can't believe I have to say this, but there is no "right" position to set a handlebar. I put it in whatever position feels most natural and effortless for my wrists and hands. For most bars, that's means i roll them pretty far forward (like Jackson G), but YMMV. I know tons of people who think the bars feel more comfy rolled back. There's no wrong answer. I guess the only wrong answer would be to deliberately run an uncomfortable setup because you read online that it's "the right" way to run your bars. And yes, changing your bar...

It's actually 7300 eur. And yeah, the equipment is more fitting for maybe a 4k bike. Wild pricing. (full disclosure, I haven't bought a bike in the last three years, the last one was semi parts special, the previous one was bought in 2019, so I don't have a good feel for pricing, but even then it seems a bit... Excessive)

So, the current Maven now has the same size pistons as the Maven Base. The new SwingLink requires less force to actuate the lever, but in return leads to more throw in the lever. By default the BRZ/BSE levers have the contact point setting effectively set at the tightest/least lever throw setting as I assume Sram doesn't intentionally leave the primary seal far away from the reservoir port. The contact point adjuster on the SLV/ULT levers just enables you to adjust the lever for more throw as you can't have the primary seal go over the reservoir port as it...

Frame storage DOES add weight. A tube is a pretty amazing piece of a construction element. Lightand stiff in multiple directions, in torsion and bending, bending left and right AND up and down. The problem is the moment you cut into it, while a small hole won't really affect things that much, a long slit will though, you're breaking all of it. So to make a downtube with a big hole cut into it to be able to fit things inside of it, you need to add a lot of material around the rim to bring back the stiffness. A...

As an XL rider I really want to demo one of these to see if it's the holy grail that I hope it is! 🤞

I'm confused. If people describe me as a salty person, does that help or hurt my hydration levels on a ride?

The symptom of peeing a lot during physical exertion is caused by a lack of sodium; often because the sodium that would be holding the water in has been sweated out. When that water can't be held in, whatever isn't sweated out will be peed out. Sodium helps the water stay in the system. Adding some sodium amount into your bottles will help you hold more water in and allow the water to be useful. It'll taste a little gross until you get used to it, but try adding some lemon juice and some table salt into your bottle before...

A higher rise bar usually moves your hands higher up directly vertically while adding spacers does it along the steering axis. In short, adding spacers shortens the reach, high rise bars don't change it.

Coming from the PNW and never seeing running water on a long ride in SoCal has been a real adjustment, and it means I have to carry way more water on my person, or spend a lot of time looking at maps to figure out where all the stores and water fountains are, or both. I miss creeks. And shade. And overcast days. Don't ever leave. Stay there as long as you can, Cam. AS LONG AS YOU CAN.

Probably not...those ones used a 10mm shaft which wasn't super durable, so you will likely need at least a new damper body and shaft on top of the service. There's a few updates/revisions you would need to look out for when its apart, so if you send it to DVO it should go OK but not everyone is that familiar with them...And you might find it doesn't last very long The dampers have potential but the newer Gen 3 shock with a 1/2" steel shaft is a lot more robust so would be worth servicing, but the older ones you...

Yeah just Nitrile N70 o-rings (sometimes called NBR or Buna-N) - some places only do quad rings in N80 but thats fine too. Either way they are all extremely common standard Jellybean parts. You will occasionally seen Viton and Polyurethane o-rings but they are still easy to source if you really need it (just more expensive) but the majority of push bike products don't need anything that special and operate within the range of Nitrile. Shock wiper seals are often polyurethane for extra durability though Couple tips on o-ring sizes, which is helpful if measuring and knowing what to order-...

If it rides as well as it looks, then it should be a damn good bike 🤩

here is one of many trail building / advocacy forum topics - https://www.vitalmtb.com/forums/The-Hub,2/I-dont-like-the-direction-of-… use it or start your own instead of talking trails in tech rumors.

I'm here to defend (good) trail associations. I was the first Executive Director of Evergreen MTB Alliance in WA State in the early 00's and then on the exec committee of the board for another 10 years. We (both paid crews and volunteers) built tons of tech trails, and yeah a lot of flow trails and jump lines for the masses. I think a good balance between the styles. Behind the scenes we fought HARD to keep open the unsanctioned areas - areas I rode and may or may not have spent countless hours digging at That fight wasn't...

Re: IMBA (and other trail associations) besides them building almost exclusively flow trails, I find the biggest drawback is the mob mentality of people that take part. -Come in and gaslight local government into letting them be the judge jury and executioner regarding how the entire trail system will be built and managed moving forward. -Build exclusively flow. (Requires excavators) -Gaslight local government into requiring parking permits to support excavator trails people didn’t ask for. Parking used to free. -Extended and unnecessary trail closures whenever it even slightly rains. “It’ll ruin the flow berms bro, be a good trail steward...