Dammit. One on me today. Why is my 12sp XT shifting like garbage on the dirt? Totally helps when you put the 2nd position cog in the right orientation. Lesson: if you need glasses/readers, wear em when aligning your cogs. It really helps to connect the goddamn (alignment) dots on the cogs....
Dammit. One on me today. Why is my 12sp XT shifting like garbage on the dirt? Totally helps when you put the 2nd position cog in...
Dammit. One on me today. Why is my 12sp XT shifting like garbage on the dirt? Totally helps when you put the 2nd position cog in the right orientation. Lesson: if you need glasses/readers, wear em when aligning your cogs. It really helps to connect the goddamn (alignment) dots on the cogs....
I just swapped in a pair of stupid-cheap new Code RSC's for an extraordinary well-used pair (to the point where I was having a hard time reviving one of the lever bearings, and replacing those things is a PITA - at least with the bearing tools I have). TIps from you and Jono seemed to make a difference on install. Eventual removal will tell the full tale.
To the extent I was under-tightening the barb and barrel nut, I'm going to look at the positive. Been doing almost all of my own wrenching for a couple of decades, and I think that'd be the first time I didn't forget to fully torque something and the problem wasn't overtightening it. I'm maturing.
Riding by myself the other day, I snapped an X01 chain for the first time in ages. Riding with an EDC pump and my minimalist hip pack on a bike without internal storage. Hip pack was new and somehow the tiny readers I keep in all my packs weren't in it. Had a hell of a time getting a quick link installed and going again.
It's frustrating to know that you can carry around a vast array of tools, but if you don't have your glasses, you're screwed. I've long maintained there's a market for steerer-tube readers that pop out like OneUp's multitool.
I removed one of the brake caliper post mount bolts on the weekend and failed to catch one of the cone washers before it bounced across the tiles and down a ducted heating vent.
Pro tip: close the vents before working on your bike. Or put some mesh backing on them.
I removed one of the brake caliper post mount bolts on the weekend and failed to catch one of the cone washers before it bounced across...
I removed one of the brake caliper post mount bolts on the weekend and failed to catch one of the cone washers before it bounced across the tiles and down a ducted heating vent.
Pro tip: close the vents before working on your bike. Or put some mesh backing on them.
Been there. They also make magnetic covers for vents. I have one on the floor vent near my work stand.
I looked one time for the little bent c-clips SRAM uses on their pad retaining bolts. I wanted to buy a 100 so I could drop them and not even bother looking for them. Actually hard to find in that small of a size.
Do people just say screw it and not bother with those clips? I've forgotten to tighten a pad retaining bolt once. It's not like a I remember the clip but forget to tighten the bolt. I've never had a tightened pad retaining bolt back out (knock on wood).
I think backwards in the sense of the direction of wrapping it around the mounting bolt. Most times I deal with shimano stuff I'm not quite sure...
I think backwards in the sense of the direction of wrapping it around the mounting bolt.
Most times I deal with shimano stuff I'm not quite sure how to route the cable to be honest...
This matters. Worked with a guy who was how you say Very Proud of His Excellent Mech Skills. Watched him struggle with a front derailleur for over a half hour before he asked me to take a look at it. Cable was on the wrong side of the pinch bolt. Not even 2 minutes to correct his installation error. That right there is why I spent extra time reading up and watching vids of Sram and Shimano's newer style front d's when they came out. A good mech knows they don't know everything, terra incognita means you study the map before embarking.
Dammit. One on me today. Why is my 12sp XT shifting like garbage on the dirt? Totally helps when you put the 2nd position cog in...
Dammit. One on me today. Why is my 12sp XT shifting like garbage on the dirt? Totally helps when you put the 2nd position cog in the right orientation. Lesson: if you need glasses/readers, wear em when aligning your cogs. It really helps to connect the goddamn (alignment) dots on the cogs....
I just swapped in a pair of stupid-cheap new Code RSC's for an extraordinary well-used pair (to the point where I was having a hard time...
I just swapped in a pair of stupid-cheap new Code RSC's for an extraordinary well-used pair (to the point where I was having a hard time reviving one of the lever bearings, and replacing those things is a PITA - at least with the bearing tools I have). TIps from you and Jono seemed to make a difference on install. Eventual removal will tell the full tale.
To the extent I was under-tightening the barb and barrel nut, I'm going to look at the positive. Been doing almost all of my own wrenching for a couple of decades, and I think that'd be the first time I didn't forget to fully torque something and the problem wasn't overtightening it. I'm maturing.
Riding by myself the other day, I snapped an X01 chain for the first time in ages. Riding with an EDC pump and my minimalist hip pack on a bike without internal storage. Hip pack was new and somehow the tiny readers I keep in all my packs weren't in it. Had a hell of a time getting a quick link installed and going again.
It's frustrating to know that you can carry around a vast array of tools, but if you don't have your glasses, you're screwed. I've long maintained there's a market for steerer-tube readers that pop out like OneUp's multitool.
"....and the problem wasn't overtightening it. I'm maturing." YUUUUUP! Thanks to you I nabbed a pir of readers to stash in my downtube permanently. That is an excellent idea!
I think backwards in the sense of the direction of wrapping it around the mounting bolt. Most times I deal with shimano stuff I'm not quite sure...
I think backwards in the sense of the direction of wrapping it around the mounting bolt.
Most times I deal with shimano stuff I'm not quite sure how to route the cable to be honest...
You can always remove the cable fixing bolt and find the groove/path that Shimano wants you to orient the cable in. That or si.shimano.com and look at the docs.
I removed one of the brake caliper post mount bolts on the weekend and failed to catch one of the cone washers before it bounced across...
I removed one of the brake caliper post mount bolts on the weekend and failed to catch one of the cone washers before it bounced across the tiles and down a ducted heating vent.
Pro tip: close the vents before working on your bike. Or put some mesh backing on them.
Been there. They also make magnetic covers for vents. I have one on the floor vent near my work stand. I looked one time for the...
Been there. They also make magnetic covers for vents. I have one on the floor vent near my work stand.
I looked one time for the little bent c-clips SRAM uses on their pad retaining bolts. I wanted to buy a 100 so I could drop them and not even bother looking for them. Actually hard to find in that small of a size.
Do people just say screw it and not bother with those clips? I've forgotten to tighten a pad retaining bolt once. It's not like a I remember the clip but forget to tighten the bolt. I've never had a tightened pad retaining bolt back out (knock on wood).
The clips often fall off during riding anyway. I've ran multiple brakes over the years for years without a clip and never had a problem. The bolt bakes into the threads anyway.
The clips often fall off during riding anyway. I've ran multiple brakes over the years for years without a clip and never had a problem. The...
The clips often fall off during riding anyway. I've ran multiple brakes over the years for years without a clip and never had a problem. The bolt bakes into the threads anyway.
The clip is probably an effective reminder to tighten the bolt on its own... In my experience they don't fall off Shimano calipers, but maybe that means I don't ride hard enough.
On the lower grade Shimano brakes that use split pins to retain the pads, I did once have a bike shop mechanic insert the pin and then forget to bend it. I didn't notice until I lifted the bike off my car at the bike park.
Here's a new one from this past weekend - catching up on maintenance doing a brake bleed. Need to clean the pads off so I go to my shelf of flammable /aerosol cans in my garage. Brain is on autopilot, I thought I grabbed the brake cleaner and sprayed a set of pads was confused by the smell. Turns out I grabbed penetrating oil.
My friend cracked the seat tube of his brand new hardtail by accidentally knocking it over into a shelf corner in his garage. He fixed it with a repair kit and rode it for years but that's about as bad as it gets.
I guess it was my turn for Waterloo Quackery. Knock block and pressfit BB. You freakin kidding me?! No wonder why it was on super sale. But for that price, what could go wrong? See above. You guys probably already knew this.
Dammit. One on me today. Why is my 12sp XT shifting like garbage on the dirt? Totally helps when you put the 2nd position cog in...
Dammit. One on me today. Why is my 12sp XT shifting like garbage on the dirt? Totally helps when you put the 2nd position cog in the right orientation. Lesson: if you need glasses/readers, wear em when aligning your cogs. It really helps to connect the goddamn (alignment) dots on the cogs....
I just swapped in a pair of stupid-cheap new Code RSC's for an extraordinary well-used pair (to the point where I was having a hard time...
I just swapped in a pair of stupid-cheap new Code RSC's for an extraordinary well-used pair (to the point where I was having a hard time reviving one of the lever bearings, and replacing those things is a PITA - at least with the bearing tools I have). TIps from you and Jono seemed to make a difference on install. Eventual removal will tell the full tale.
To the extent I was under-tightening the barb and barrel nut, I'm going to look at the positive. Been doing almost all of my own wrenching for a couple of decades, and I think that'd be the first time I didn't forget to fully torque something and the problem wasn't overtightening it. I'm maturing.
Riding by myself the other day, I snapped an X01 chain for the first time in ages. Riding with an EDC pump and my minimalist hip pack on a bike without internal storage. Hip pack was new and somehow the tiny readers I keep in all my packs weren't in it. Had a hell of a time getting a quick link installed and going again.
It's frustrating to know that you can carry around a vast array of tools, but if you don't have your glasses, you're screwed. I've long maintained there's a market for steerer-tube readers that pop out like OneUp's multitool.
"....and the problem wasn't overtightening it. I'm maturing." YUUUUUP! Thanks to you I nabbed a pir of readers to stash in my downtube permanently. That is...
"....and the problem wasn't overtightening it. I'm maturing." YUUUUUP! Thanks to you I nabbed a pir of readers to stash in my downtube permanently. That is an excellent idea!
Old man/ old eyes hack. If you have presbyopia( the loss of the ability for your eyes to focus on close objects) you most likely have your fix with you. Curl your index finger tightly until there is only a small gap. Bring this close to your eye and look through it at what you’re trying to focus on. This small aperture is the same thing a camera lens uses to increase depth of field. It’s not perfect, but it may get you by. I have a 2.0 diopter close up correction and this works for me if I don’t have my readers.
I just swapped in a pair of stupid-cheap new Code RSC's for an extraordinary well-used pair (to the point where I was having a hard time...
I just swapped in a pair of stupid-cheap new Code RSC's for an extraordinary well-used pair (to the point where I was having a hard time reviving one of the lever bearings, and replacing those things is a PITA - at least with the bearing tools I have). TIps from you and Jono seemed to make a difference on install. Eventual removal will tell the full tale.
To the extent I was under-tightening the barb and barrel nut, I'm going to look at the positive. Been doing almost all of my own wrenching for a couple of decades, and I think that'd be the first time I didn't forget to fully torque something and the problem wasn't overtightening it. I'm maturing.
Riding by myself the other day, I snapped an X01 chain for the first time in ages. Riding with an EDC pump and my minimalist hip pack on a bike without internal storage. Hip pack was new and somehow the tiny readers I keep in all my packs weren't in it. Had a hell of a time getting a quick link installed and going again.
It's frustrating to know that you can carry around a vast array of tools, but if you don't have your glasses, you're screwed. I've long maintained there's a market for steerer-tube readers that pop out like OneUp's multitool.
"....and the problem wasn't overtightening it. I'm maturing." YUUUUUP! Thanks to you I nabbed a pir of readers to stash in my downtube permanently. That is...
"....and the problem wasn't overtightening it. I'm maturing." YUUUUUP! Thanks to you I nabbed a pir of readers to stash in my downtube permanently. That is an excellent idea!
Old man/ old eyes hack. If you have presbyopia( the loss of the ability for your eyes to focus on close objects) you most likely have...
Old man/ old eyes hack. If you have presbyopia( the loss of the ability for your eyes to focus on close objects) you most likely have your fix with you. Curl your index finger tightly until there is only a small gap. Bring this close to your eye and look through it at what you’re trying to focus on. This small aperture is the same thing a camera lens uses to increase depth of field. It’s not perfect, but it may get you by. I have a 2.0 diopter close up correction and this works for me if I don’t have my readers.
I did enough years in middle school to worry about getting my face bopped when it tried it. I would not trust this advice in person lol.
I just swapped in a pair of stupid-cheap new Code RSC's for an extraordinary well-used pair (to the point where I was having a hard time...
I just swapped in a pair of stupid-cheap new Code RSC's for an extraordinary well-used pair (to the point where I was having a hard time reviving one of the lever bearings, and replacing those things is a PITA - at least with the bearing tools I have). TIps from you and Jono seemed to make a difference on install. Eventual removal will tell the full tale.
To the extent I was under-tightening the barb and barrel nut, I'm going to look at the positive. Been doing almost all of my own wrenching for a couple of decades, and I think that'd be the first time I didn't forget to fully torque something and the problem wasn't overtightening it. I'm maturing.
Riding by myself the other day, I snapped an X01 chain for the first time in ages. Riding with an EDC pump and my minimalist hip pack on a bike without internal storage. Hip pack was new and somehow the tiny readers I keep in all my packs weren't in it. Had a hell of a time getting a quick link installed and going again.
It's frustrating to know that you can carry around a vast array of tools, but if you don't have your glasses, you're screwed. I've long maintained there's a market for steerer-tube readers that pop out like OneUp's multitool.
"....and the problem wasn't overtightening it. I'm maturing." YUUUUUP! Thanks to you I nabbed a pir of readers to stash in my downtube permanently. That is...
"....and the problem wasn't overtightening it. I'm maturing." YUUUUUP! Thanks to you I nabbed a pir of readers to stash in my downtube permanently. That is an excellent idea!
Old man/ old eyes hack. If you have presbyopia( the loss of the ability for your eyes to focus on close objects) you most likely have...
Old man/ old eyes hack. If you have presbyopia( the loss of the ability for your eyes to focus on close objects) you most likely have your fix with you. Curl your index finger tightly until there is only a small gap. Bring this close to your eye and look through it at what you’re trying to focus on. This small aperture is the same thing a camera lens uses to increase depth of field. It’s not perfect, but it may get you by. I have a 2.0 diopter close up correction and this works for me if I don’t have my readers.
Just tried this, Holy Shit! Great tip.
Don't worry Bobs_is_better_than_A-line, I'm alone in the house, and still sane enough to not bop myself.
"....and the problem wasn't overtightening it. I'm maturing." YUUUUUP! Thanks to you I nabbed a pir of readers to stash in my downtube permanently. That is...
"....and the problem wasn't overtightening it. I'm maturing." YUUUUUP! Thanks to you I nabbed a pir of readers to stash in my downtube permanently. That is an excellent idea!
Old man/ old eyes hack. If you have presbyopia( the loss of the ability for your eyes to focus on close objects) you most likely have...
Old man/ old eyes hack. If you have presbyopia( the loss of the ability for your eyes to focus on close objects) you most likely have your fix with you. Curl your index finger tightly until there is only a small gap. Bring this close to your eye and look through it at what you’re trying to focus on. This small aperture is the same thing a camera lens uses to increase depth of field. It’s not perfect, but it may get you by. I have a 2.0 diopter close up correction and this works for me if I don’t have my readers.
I did enough years in middle school to worry about getting my face bopped when it tried it. I would not trust this advice in person...
I did enough years in middle school to worry about getting my face bopped when it tried it. I would not trust this advice in person lol.
I immediately googled it to make sure he wasn't f'ing with us. Imagine having been able to do that in middle school.
What does it say about you if you're old enough to need to do this but one of the first thing that occurs to you is making a joke about looking at your dick? I guess it's true that youth is fleeting, but immaturity can last a lifetime.
Ongoing / unresolved "me problem": I like my brake levers' bite point to feel the same left/right. Of course, my left arm is weaker than my right due to being right handed, so the right lever always feels easier than left. I tend to progressively wind out my right brake levers' contact point, since that makes the bite point feel sharper. Over time, the measured bite distance discrepancy builds up - the other day I measured my right's to be a full 1cm further out than the left. Then my OCD for making things matchy-matchy kicks in, so I reset the contact adjuster to match distances. But you can bet that I'll be winding it out again next ride, and the cycle will continue.
Ongoing / unresolved "me problem": I like my brake levers' bite point to feel the same left/right. Of course, my left arm is weaker than my...
Ongoing / unresolved "me problem": I like my brake levers' bite point to feel the same left/right. Of course, my left arm is weaker than my right due to being right handed, so the right lever always feels easier than left. I tend to progressively wind out my right brake levers' contact point, since that makes the bite point feel sharper. Over time, the measured bite distance discrepancy builds up - the other day I measured my right's to be a full 1cm further out than the left. Then my OCD for making things matchy-matchy kicks in, so I reset the contact adjuster to match distances. But you can bet that I'll be winding it out again next ride, and the cycle will continue.
I always set up my levers for equal bite point instead of resting distance from bar. Sometimes my are very visibly different as pads wear. As long as they feel the same when I give em a squeeze I'm happy.
Old man/ old eyes hack. If you have presbyopia( the loss of the ability for your eyes to focus on close objects) you most likely have...
Old man/ old eyes hack. If you have presbyopia( the loss of the ability for your eyes to focus on close objects) you most likely have your fix with you. Curl your index finger tightly until there is only a small gap. Bring this close to your eye and look through it at what you’re trying to focus on. This small aperture is the same thing a camera lens uses to increase depth of field. It’s not perfect, but it may get you by. I have a 2.0 diopter close up correction and this works for me if I don’t have my readers.
Tried it this past weekend and I'll be damned. It worked. Kept me from running upstairs for the readers when centering a caliper. This was one of those tips that was the reason for the innernuts creation.
Ongoing / unresolved "me problem": I like my brake levers' bite point to feel the same left/right. Of course, my left arm is weaker than my...
Ongoing / unresolved "me problem": I like my brake levers' bite point to feel the same left/right. Of course, my left arm is weaker than my right due to being right handed, so the right lever always feels easier than left. I tend to progressively wind out my right brake levers' contact point, since that makes the bite point feel sharper. Over time, the measured bite distance discrepancy builds up - the other day I measured my right's to be a full 1cm further out than the left. Then my OCD for making things matchy-matchy kicks in, so I reset the contact adjuster to match distances. But you can bet that I'll be winding it out again next ride, and the cycle will continue.
Don't get me started on "matchy-matchy." I have been known to consume hours when putting stickers on my helmet, making sure they are straight and symmetrical with other logos. You know you have a real problem when you are aware that sometimes you have a to put a sticker on slightly crooked so it will appear straight.
Back to the levers: How does anybody ride without their levers being exactly the same? I mean, that's probably what causes Hantavirus or something.
I have a “fun” one. Got an ultrasonic cleaner last week to go with my new waxing regime, time to clean everything! I had a couple hours and figured I could settle in for some meditative bike maintenance. I’d pulled my cassette (Garbaruk XD 12 speed) and the cleaning cycle was almost done when my wife was home early from some cancelled plans- and now my available time evaporated. Pulled the now sparkling cassette out (ziplock with purple Simple Green, half hour at 70C, chefs kiss) and was rushing to reassemble everything (with a new waxed chain on too.) Cassette went on but didn’t feel quite the same (tight but not that hard stop) and I assumed it was the grease making it feel different. Throw the wheel in and it’s freewheeling fine, go to pedal and the resistance is massive. No problem I thought- it’s just the freshly waxed chain that needs to loosen up. I had also swapped the housing entry angle into the derailleur (Madrone) for better routing and figured I’d need to adjust shifting, so wasn’t concerned about the absolutely horrendous shifts up to the top of the cassette. I was finally able to get it turning with difficulty in the easiest gear and thought “man, this chain is way harder to break in than my other waxed chain,” when I started looking at the cassette as it spun. Massive wobble.
I pulled the wheel and realized what I’d done- cross threaded the cassette onto the freehub. I was able to pull it off and was greeted by a bunch of thin aluminum shavings from the cassette driver and the freehub. After keeping myself from screaming curse words at the top of my lungs, a shower and a calm down, later I came back to it, cleaned out all the shavings and was able to get it threaded on and seated properly.
I now recognize that it was the universe telling me that I hate i9 hubs and really should rebuild the wheel with a Sidekick hub when they’re back in stock. In other news- if you’re out of time and it’s not absolutely critical to finish your bike maintenance, just walk away and finish when you have enough time. Learn from my experience. And also, if anyone wants a slightly questionable Garbaruk cassette that’s perfectly matched with an i9 freehub please let me know- I’d be willing to let them go for very reasonable rates.
Why is there so much drag and what is that awful noise? Oh.
What is the purpose of this feature on Shimano Mx100 derailleurs? It isn't structural and it forces you to break the chain again if you accidentally route it the wrong side.
Why is there so much drag and what is that awful noise? Oh.What is the purpose of this feature on Shimano Mx100 derailleurs? It isn't...
Why is there so much drag and what is that awful noise? Oh.
What is the purpose of this feature on Shimano Mx100 derailleurs? It isn't structural and it forces you to break the chain again if you accidentally route it the wrong side.
Just open up the cage via the pulley bolt and fix it that way?
Why is there so much drag and what is that awful noise? Oh.What is the purpose of this feature on Shimano Mx100 derailleurs? It isn't...
Why is there so much drag and what is that awful noise? Oh.
What is the purpose of this feature on Shimano Mx100 derailleurs? It isn't structural and it forces you to break the chain again if you accidentally route it the wrong side.
I think the purpose of that little tab is to be a mini chain guide for the upper pulley in big chain slap moments. Pull the cage forward by hand and imagine the chain slapping and flopping around. Seems like it'd be easy for the chain to jump off the upper pulley if that tab wasn't there. I just checked a couple of X01 derailleurs in the old parts bin because the clutches started to wear out, and you can clearly see that the chain has hit that tab.
Years ago, after most car manufacturers abandoned the pop up or rolldown window on the rear of SUV's, I got a RakAttach swing arm. There were two huge and unanticipated bonuses. First, it positioned the bike rack far enough from SUV that I could lift the hatch without lowering or swinging away the rack, which was amazing. Second, I loosen an arm of the rack and pump tires, etc. with the bike in the rack. Bolt checks and the like are also with the bike in the rack. And I put the bike in the rack as soon I get back to the car.
I recently broke down and bought a truck, because I wasn't interested in the few SUV's left that aren't glorified station wagons. With the truck, I'm going to try running a single tray unless I'm taking a trip. The single tray disappears under the tailgate when it's down, and I can get quick access to the back via the tonneau cover. The added length of the swingarm on the back of the truck sucks in parking garages, especially the one I park in every day at work.
Here's the dumb part: I'm going to lean the bike against the truck, sit on the tailgate, and the bike is going to fall over. I know myself well enough to know that I'm going to forget and do it on a somewhat regular basis. I've got a couple of the scorpion style bike stands and I could throw one in the truck, but I'll probably get in a hurry and not use it. Plus, it won't do me any good the days I'm on the ebike. I've also looked at other types of stands, but I'm a little suspect of something like the Feedback Sports RAAK stand in a gravel or dirt parking lot, and it would be uber dorky to pull one out every single ride.
I'm trying to come up with something simple and very quick that would hold the bike well enough against the truck that a little jostling from sitting on the tailgate wouldn't knock it over and I could air up tires, check suspension pressure, etc. without having to be uber careful. Current though is one-half of a magnetic paper towel holder with some heavy modifications. Keep it just inside the tailgate stuck on the wall of the bed and then move it down the outer edge of the bumper to hold the rear tire. Picture below.
Years ago, after most car manufacturers abandoned the pop up or rolldown window on the rear of SUV's, I got a RakAttach swing arm. There were...
Years ago, after most car manufacturers abandoned the pop up or rolldown window on the rear of SUV's, I got a RakAttach swing arm. There were two huge and unanticipated bonuses. First, it positioned the bike rack far enough from SUV that I could lift the hatch without lowering or swinging away the rack, which was amazing. Second, I loosen an arm of the rack and pump tires, etc. with the bike in the rack. Bolt checks and the like are also with the bike in the rack. And I put the bike in the rack as soon I get back to the car.
I recently broke down and bought a truck, because I wasn't interested in the few SUV's left that aren't glorified station wagons. With the truck, I'm going to try running a single tray unless I'm taking a trip. The single tray disappears under the tailgate when it's down, and I can get quick access to the back via the tonneau cover. The added length of the swingarm on the back of the truck sucks in parking garages, especially the one I park in every day at work.
Here's the dumb part: I'm going to lean the bike against the truck, sit on the tailgate, and the bike is going to fall over. I know myself well enough to know that I'm going to forget and do it on a somewhat regular basis. I've got a couple of the scorpion style bike stands and I could throw one in the truck, but I'll probably get in a hurry and not use it. Plus, it won't do me any good the days I'm on the ebike. I've also looked at other types of stands, but I'm a little suspect of something like the Feedback Sports RAAK stand in a gravel or dirt parking lot, and it would be uber dorky to pull one out every single ride.
I'm trying to come up with something simple and very quick that would hold the bike well enough against the truck that a little jostling from sitting on the tailgate wouldn't knock it over and I could air up tires, check suspension pressure, etc. without having to be uber careful. Current though is one-half of a magnetic paper towel holder with some heavy modifications. Keep it just inside the tailgate stuck on the wall of the bed and then move it down the outer edge of the bumper to hold the rear tire. Picture below.
Anybody got any tricks or ideas?
You have a couple of options that I’ve used and seen around the Rockies that work pretty good. In the winter, I kept seeing these on cars when I walked through the lot and I have two kids and a wife who kept leaning their skis up on my truck. It seemed smart.
I ended up finding some single unit magnet on a deep dive Etsy or Amazon like five years ago, it takes the handlebar I think it’s the solution to your problem.
Years ago, after most car manufacturers abandoned the pop up or rolldown window on the rear of SUV's, I got a RakAttach swing arm. There were...
Years ago, after most car manufacturers abandoned the pop up or rolldown window on the rear of SUV's, I got a RakAttach swing arm. There were two huge and unanticipated bonuses. First, it positioned the bike rack far enough from SUV that I could lift the hatch without lowering or swinging away the rack, which was amazing. Second, I loosen an arm of the rack and pump tires, etc. with the bike in the rack. Bolt checks and the like are also with the bike in the rack. And I put the bike in the rack as soon I get back to the car.
I recently broke down and bought a truck, because I wasn't interested in the few SUV's left that aren't glorified station wagons. With the truck, I'm going to try running a single tray unless I'm taking a trip. The single tray disappears under the tailgate when it's down, and I can get quick access to the back via the tonneau cover. The added length of the swingarm on the back of the truck sucks in parking garages, especially the one I park in every day at work.
Here's the dumb part: I'm going to lean the bike against the truck, sit on the tailgate, and the bike is going to fall over. I know myself well enough to know that I'm going to forget and do it on a somewhat regular basis. I've got a couple of the scorpion style bike stands and I could throw one in the truck, but I'll probably get in a hurry and not use it. Plus, it won't do me any good the days I'm on the ebike. I've also looked at other types of stands, but I'm a little suspect of something like the Feedback Sports RAAK stand in a gravel or dirt parking lot, and it would be uber dorky to pull one out every single ride.
I'm trying to come up with something simple and very quick that would hold the bike well enough against the truck that a little jostling from sitting on the tailgate wouldn't knock it over and I could air up tires, check suspension pressure, etc. without having to be uber careful. Current though is one-half of a magnetic paper towel holder with some heavy modifications. Keep it just inside the tailgate stuck on the wall of the bed and then move it down the outer edge of the bumper to hold the rear tire. Picture below.
Dammit. One on me today. Why is my 12sp XT shifting like garbage on the dirt? Totally helps when you put the 2nd position cog in the right orientation. Lesson: if you need glasses/readers, wear em when aligning your cogs. It really helps to connect the goddamn (alignment) dots on the cogs....
I just swapped in a pair of stupid-cheap new Code RSC's for an extraordinary well-used pair (to the point where I was having a hard time reviving one of the lever bearings, and replacing those things is a PITA - at least with the bearing tools I have). TIps from you and Jono seemed to make a difference on install. Eventual removal will tell the full tale.
To the extent I was under-tightening the barb and barrel nut, I'm going to look at the positive. Been doing almost all of my own wrenching for a couple of decades, and I think that'd be the first time I didn't forget to fully torque something and the problem wasn't overtightening it. I'm maturing.
Riding by myself the other day, I snapped an X01 chain for the first time in ages. Riding with an EDC pump and my minimalist hip pack on a bike without internal storage. Hip pack was new and somehow the tiny readers I keep in all my packs weren't in it. Had a hell of a time getting a quick link installed and going again.
It's frustrating to know that you can carry around a vast array of tools, but if you don't have your glasses, you're screwed. I've long maintained there's a market for steerer-tube readers that pop out like OneUp's multitool.
I removed one of the brake caliper post mount bolts on the weekend and failed to catch one of the cone washers before it bounced across the tiles and down a ducted heating vent.
Pro tip: close the vents before working on your bike. Or put some mesh backing on them.
Been there. They also make magnetic covers for vents. I have one on the floor vent near my work stand.
I looked one time for the little bent c-clips SRAM uses on their pad retaining bolts. I wanted to buy a 100 so I could drop them and not even bother looking for them. Actually hard to find in that small of a size.
Do people just say screw it and not bother with those clips? I've forgotten to tighten a pad retaining bolt once. It's not like a I remember the clip but forget to tighten the bolt. I've never had a tightened pad retaining bolt back out (knock on wood).
This matters. Worked with a guy who was how you say Very Proud of His Excellent Mech Skills. Watched him struggle with a front derailleur for over a half hour before he asked me to take a look at it. Cable was on the wrong side of the pinch bolt. Not even 2 minutes to correct his installation error. That right there is why I spent extra time reading up and watching vids of Sram and Shimano's newer style front d's when they came out. A good mech knows they don't know everything, terra incognita means you study the map before embarking.
"....and the problem wasn't overtightening it. I'm maturing." YUUUUUP! Thanks to you I nabbed a pir of readers to stash in my downtube permanently. That is an excellent idea!
You can always remove the cable fixing bolt and find the groove/path that Shimano wants you to orient the cable in. That or si.shimano.com and look at the docs.
The clips often fall off during riding anyway. I've ran multiple brakes over the years for years without a clip and never had a problem. The bolt bakes into the threads anyway.
The clip is probably an effective reminder to tighten the bolt on its own... In my experience they don't fall off Shimano calipers, but maybe that means I don't ride hard enough.
On the lower grade Shimano brakes that use split pins to retain the pads, I did once have a bike shop mechanic insert the pin and then forget to bend it. I didn't notice until I lifted the bike off my car at the bike park.
Here's a new one from this past weekend - catching up on maintenance doing a brake bleed. Need to clean the pads off so I go to my shelf of flammable /aerosol cans in my garage. Brain is on autopilot, I thought I grabbed the brake cleaner and sprayed a set of pads was confused by the smell. Turns out I grabbed penetrating oil.
Carbon nerd thread reminded me of one:
My friend cracked the seat tube of his brand new hardtail by accidentally knocking it over into a shelf corner in his garage. He fixed it with a repair kit and rode it for years but that's about as bad as it gets.
I guess it was my turn for Waterloo Quackery. Knock block and pressfit BB. You freakin kidding me?! No wonder why it was on super sale. But for that price, what could go wrong? See above. You guys probably already knew this.
Old man/ old eyes hack. If you have presbyopia( the loss of the ability for your eyes to focus on close objects) you most likely have your fix with you. Curl your index finger tightly until there is only a small gap. Bring this close to your eye and look through it at what you’re trying to focus on. This small aperture is the same thing a camera lens uses to increase depth of field. It’s not perfect, but it may get you by. I have a 2.0 diopter close up correction and this works for me if I don’t have my readers.
I did enough years in middle school to worry about getting my face bopped when it tried it. I would not trust this advice in person lol.
Just tried this, Holy Shit! Great tip.
Don't worry Bobs_is_better_than_A-line, I'm alone in the house, and still sane enough to not bop myself.
I immediately googled it to make sure he wasn't f'ing with us. Imagine having been able to do that in middle school.
What does it say about you if you're old enough to need to do this but one of the first thing that occurs to you is making a joke about looking at your dick? I guess it's true that youth is fleeting, but immaturity can last a lifetime.
Ongoing / unresolved "me problem": I like my brake levers' bite point to feel the same left/right. Of course, my left arm is weaker than my right due to being right handed, so the right lever always feels easier than left. I tend to progressively wind out my right brake levers' contact point, since that makes the bite point feel sharper. Over time, the measured bite distance discrepancy builds up - the other day I measured my right's to be a full 1cm further out than the left. Then my OCD for making things matchy-matchy kicks in, so I reset the contact adjuster to match distances. But you can bet that I'll be winding it out again next ride, and the cycle will continue.
I always set up my levers for equal bite point instead of resting distance from bar. Sometimes my are very visibly different as pads wear. As long as they feel the same when I give em a squeeze I'm happy.
Tried it this past weekend and I'll be damned. It worked. Kept me from running upstairs for the readers when centering a caliper. This was one of those tips that was the reason for the innernuts creation.
Don't get me started on "matchy-matchy." I have been known to consume hours when putting stickers on my helmet, making sure they are straight and symmetrical with other logos. You know you have a real problem when you are aware that sometimes you have a to put a sticker on slightly crooked so it will appear straight.
Back to the levers: How does anybody ride without their levers being exactly the same? I mean, that's probably what causes Hantavirus or something.
I have a “fun” one. Got an ultrasonic cleaner last week to go with my new waxing regime, time to clean everything! I had a couple hours and figured I could settle in for some meditative bike maintenance. I’d pulled my cassette (Garbaruk XD 12 speed) and the cleaning cycle was almost done when my wife was home early from some cancelled plans- and now my available time evaporated. Pulled the now sparkling cassette out (ziplock with purple Simple Green, half hour at 70C, chefs kiss) and was rushing to reassemble everything (with a new waxed chain on too.) Cassette went on but didn’t feel quite the same (tight but not that hard stop) and I assumed it was the grease making it feel different. Throw the wheel in and it’s freewheeling fine, go to pedal and the resistance is massive. No problem I thought- it’s just the freshly waxed chain that needs to loosen up. I had also swapped the housing entry angle into the derailleur (Madrone) for better routing and figured I’d need to adjust shifting, so wasn’t concerned about the absolutely horrendous shifts up to the top of the cassette. I was finally able to get it turning with difficulty in the easiest gear and thought “man, this chain is way harder to break in than my other waxed chain,” when I started looking at the cassette as it spun. Massive wobble.
I pulled the wheel and realized what I’d done- cross threaded the cassette onto the freehub. I was able to pull it off and was greeted by a bunch of thin aluminum shavings from the cassette driver and the freehub. After keeping myself from screaming curse words at the top of my lungs, a shower and a calm down, later I came back to it, cleaned out all the shavings and was able to get it threaded on and seated properly.
I now recognize that it was the universe telling me that I hate i9 hubs and really should rebuild the wheel with a Sidekick hub when they’re back in stock. In other news- if you’re out of time and it’s not absolutely critical to finish your bike maintenance, just walk away and finish when you have enough time. Learn from my experience. And also, if anyone wants a slightly questionable Garbaruk cassette that’s perfectly matched with an i9 freehub please let me know- I’d be willing to let them go for very reasonable rates.
Why is there so much drag and what is that awful noise? Oh.
What is the purpose of this feature on Shimano Mx100 derailleurs? It isn't structural and it forces you to break the chain again if you accidentally route it the wrong side.
Just open up the cage via the pulley bolt and fix it that way?
Dumb problem #2: I didn't consider that
I think the purpose of that little tab is to be a mini chain guide for the upper pulley in big chain slap moments. Pull the cage forward by hand and imagine the chain slapping and flopping around. Seems like it'd be easy for the chain to jump off the upper pulley if that tab wasn't there. I just checked a couple of X01 derailleurs in the old parts bin because the clutches started to wear out, and you can clearly see that the chain has hit that tab.
Years ago, after most car manufacturers abandoned the pop up or rolldown window on the rear of SUV's, I got a RakAttach swing arm. There were two huge and unanticipated bonuses. First, it positioned the bike rack far enough from SUV that I could lift the hatch without lowering or swinging away the rack, which was amazing. Second, I loosen an arm of the rack and pump tires, etc. with the bike in the rack. Bolt checks and the like are also with the bike in the rack. And I put the bike in the rack as soon I get back to the car.
I recently broke down and bought a truck, because I wasn't interested in the few SUV's left that aren't glorified station wagons. With the truck, I'm going to try running a single tray unless I'm taking a trip. The single tray disappears under the tailgate when it's down, and I can get quick access to the back via the tonneau cover. The added length of the swingarm on the back of the truck sucks in parking garages, especially the one I park in every day at work.
Here's the dumb part: I'm going to lean the bike against the truck, sit on the tailgate, and the bike is going to fall over. I know myself well enough to know that I'm going to forget and do it on a somewhat regular basis. I've got a couple of the scorpion style bike stands and I could throw one in the truck, but I'll probably get in a hurry and not use it. Plus, it won't do me any good the days I'm on the ebike. I've also looked at other types of stands, but I'm a little suspect of something like the Feedback Sports RAAK stand in a gravel or dirt parking lot, and it would be uber dorky to pull one out every single ride.
I'm trying to come up with something simple and very quick that would hold the bike well enough against the truck that a little jostling from sitting on the tailgate wouldn't knock it over and I could air up tires, check suspension pressure, etc. without having to be uber careful. Current though is one-half of a magnetic paper towel holder with some heavy modifications. Keep it just inside the tailgate stuck on the wall of the bed and then move it down the outer edge of the bumper to hold the rear tire. Picture below.
Anybody got any tricks or ideas?
You have a couple of options that I’ve used and seen around the Rockies that work pretty good.
In the winter, I kept seeing these on cars when I walked through the lot and I have two kids and a wife who kept leaning their skis up on my truck. It seemed smart.
https://a.co/d/0hrzaACQ
I ended up finding some single unit magnet on a deep dive Etsy or Amazon like five years ago, it takes the handlebar I think it’s the solution to your problem.
Maybe this is the one I got them with a new name?
https://www.rigstrips.com/products/sunstrip?variant=40277626192042
Search sno strip magnet
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