Not sure if it's the casing or the volume, but I could never run enough pressure in TC's to keep the rims off rocks while still...
Not sure if it's the casing or the volume, but I could never run enough pressure in TC's to keep the rims off rocks while still maintaining a good feel on the ground. Having spent years running DH casing Conti's, Spec's, and Maxxis, I wanted to like the Tacky Chans but they were not for me, as a 200lb hard rider. I went as high as 32r 26f and would still hear rim pings on every rock garden. FWIW I could run 28r 23f with any of the aforementioned dh casings on the same trails and would not run into issues yet have more grip and less bounce.
I started with SG's and then bought another pair of US DH casing Tacky Chans with the same disappointing result. I really don't get how guys run these at WC speeds, but I know how they work/don't for me at my non-WC cat2 pace. YMMV.
lol yeah, most aren't 6'3" either. I think Minnaar is closest to my size of the WC guys that I have met/seen. That does bring up...
lol yeah, most aren't 6'3" either. I think Minnaar is closest to my size of the WC guys that I have met/seen. That does bring up a good point, I have never run inserts, but I also haven't needed too with my typical Assegai/DHR2 setup. Honestly after spending $450 on TC's in less than a month the thought of spending any more on inserts seems pretty lame.
holy shit that’s a lot of spend. You are very committed to the Chans lol
Tire shopping right now. As of now I am committing more to the Tacky Chans rather than radial patterns...But I'm stuck on gravity vs DH and...
Tire shopping right now. As of now I am committing more to the Tacky Chans rather than radial patterns...
But I'm stuck on gravity vs DH and soft vs ultra soft (notably in that DH only comes in ultra soft).
So I am weighing DH ultra soft vs gravity soft for the rear... And just DH vs gravity for the front. Dunno how to play it out.
Ride in SoCal, nothing too serious, but I'm 200lbs and a former BMXer so my line choice is shit. Should I just stick with super gravitys or try DH and likely end up with more wear (but better grip)?
The wear is significant already with the soft compound. Wonderful tire in the back though.
I was riding with the office mates the other day,and they were all on fatbikes and I was just getting stuck and slip sliding in the...
I was riding with the office mates the other day,and they were all on fatbikes and I was just getting stuck and slip sliding in the snow. It got me thinking, would radials help with fatbikes?
I have a fantasy of Schwalbe releasing Shredda radials in 3.0 width and their special cold weather compound the WC racers were running in Poland. Put them on my ebike, with soft coil suspension and full 27.5 for the ultimate snow bike.
I was riding with the office mates the other day,and they were all on fatbikes and I was just getting stuck and slip sliding in the...
I was riding with the office mates the other day,and they were all on fatbikes and I was just getting stuck and slip sliding in the snow. It got me thinking, would radials help with fatbikes?
You are already using so low pressures with fat tires and have a big contact patch, don't really see what radial would change for the better
I was riding with the office mates the other day,and they were all on fatbikes and I was just getting stuck and slip sliding in the...
I was riding with the office mates the other day,and they were all on fatbikes and I was just getting stuck and slip sliding in the snow. It got me thinking, would radials help with fatbikes?
But why? Why would you need higher pressure in snow, fat tires do their job well already, that of being suspension and actually be able to stay on top of snow. Maybe in the 3" category, but that's just a stupid tire size anyway, not good enough for stay on top and wide enough not to carve through.
But why? Why would you need higher pressure in snow, fat tires do their job well already, that of being suspension and actually be able to...
But why? Why would you need higher pressure in snow, fat tires do their job well already, that of being suspension and actually be able to stay on top of snow. Maybe in the 3" category, but that's just a stupid tire size anyway, not good enough for stay on top and wide enough not to carve through.
Most fat biking is in low tide snow, so you still get rocks and roots that sometimes poke out.
Also fat tires are undamped suspension, and they bob quite a bit on hard pack. Annoyingly so. Plus there is tire squirm, rim bottom out on hard compressions, etc. Really, not that different from normal sized tires.
Thank you! Couldn't find this chart. Very helpful.
Ah yes, the periodic table of continental tire skus. If there ever was evidence of how impossible it is to keep mtb consumers happy, it's the list of tire mfg skus.
Ah yes, the periodic table of continental tire skus. If there ever was evidence of how impossible it is to keep mtb consumers happy, it's the...
Ah yes, the periodic table of continental tire skus. If there ever was evidence of how impossible it is to keep mtb consumers happy, it's the list of tire mfg skus.
Does anyone know what the Conti sidewall logos mean?I think I remember this being a Super Soft rear tire, but I can't tell heads or tails...
Does anyone know what the Conti sidewall logos mean?
I think I remember this being a Super Soft rear tire, but I can't tell heads or tails from the sidewall:
This is the full fat. Downhill riding (first icon with arrows pointing down) Super soft copmound (second icon with all dots filled in) Downhill casing (third icon with all dots filled in).
Question. I see lots of discussion re treads, compounds, casings, grip, trye damping and feel. But don't see this discussed. The tyre casing breaking down over time, mainly speaking on the rear tyre in particular, but is a longer timeframe on front tyre.
For example, im not light (95kegs in riding gear), competent i guess. Ride with only DD or DH casing tyres on all bikes from trail to park (be it maxxis, continental, vittoria etc). I find the casing is breaking down long before the tread is wearing out. Support and tyre feel falling off drastically after 4-8weeks depending on the weather. probably most obvious by how much a removed tyre rolls into a wee ball and so pliable in your hands compared to a fresh DD/DH. Rear tyre pressure is 28-31psi tyre dependent. No inserts for a couple years. Over time the rear becomes a bit tooo forklift steery. Riding in Canterbury in NZ but all over south island of all type of soil and surface.
I end up replacing tyre due to feel on bike not tread. Is this just a me thing or other people in the same boat? There is huge debates in here about the best tyre to ride in a certain location when its a full moon but only when humidity is 80% but not suitable after 2 IPA pints, only on a 140mm bike and unrideable on a 150mm bike. But not so much on tyre casing. Apologies if this has been discussed and iv missed it.
NOTE this isnt a criticism of tyre manufacturers but just an observation that i dont see discussed and isnt mentioned in my riding group. Maybe I have more enthusiasm in corners than my friends haha.
Question. I see lots of discussion re treads, compounds, casings, grip, trye damping and feel. But don't see this discussed. The tyre casing breaking down over...
Question. I see lots of discussion re treads, compounds, casings, grip, trye damping and feel. But don't see this discussed. The tyre casing breaking down over time, mainly speaking on the rear tyre in particular, but is a longer timeframe on front tyre.
For example, im not light (95kegs in riding gear), competent i guess. Ride with only DD or DH casing tyres on all bikes from trail to park (be it maxxis, continental, vittoria etc). I find the casing is breaking down long before the tread is wearing out. Support and tyre feel falling off drastically after 4-8weeks depending on the weather. probably most obvious by how much a removed tyre rolls into a wee ball and so pliable in your hands compared to a fresh DD/DH. Rear tyre pressure is 28-31psi tyre dependent. No inserts for a couple years. Over time the rear becomes a bit tooo forklift steery. Riding in Canterbury in NZ but all over south island of all type of soil and surface.
I end up replacing tyre due to feel on bike not tread. Is this just a me thing or other people in the same boat? There is huge debates in here about the best tyre to ride in a certain location when its a full moon but only when humidity is 80% but not suitable after 2 IPA pints, only on a 140mm bike and unrideable on a 150mm bike. But not so much on tyre casing. Apologies if this has been discussed and iv missed it.
NOTE this isnt a criticism of tyre manufacturers but just an observation that i dont see discussed and isnt mentioned in my riding group. Maybe I have more enthusiasm in corners than my friends haha.
Add a fat insert. Maybe the odyssey one? Maxxis DH casing instead of double down.
Question. I see lots of discussion re treads, compounds, casings, grip, trye damping and feel. But don't see this discussed. The tyre casing breaking down over...
Question. I see lots of discussion re treads, compounds, casings, grip, trye damping and feel. But don't see this discussed. The tyre casing breaking down over time, mainly speaking on the rear tyre in particular, but is a longer timeframe on front tyre.
For example, im not light (95kegs in riding gear), competent i guess. Ride with only DD or DH casing tyres on all bikes from trail to park (be it maxxis, continental, vittoria etc). I find the casing is breaking down long before the tread is wearing out. Support and tyre feel falling off drastically after 4-8weeks depending on the weather. probably most obvious by how much a removed tyre rolls into a wee ball and so pliable in your hands compared to a fresh DD/DH. Rear tyre pressure is 28-31psi tyre dependent. No inserts for a couple years. Over time the rear becomes a bit tooo forklift steery. Riding in Canterbury in NZ but all over south island of all type of soil and surface.
I end up replacing tyre due to feel on bike not tread. Is this just a me thing or other people in the same boat? There is huge debates in here about the best tyre to ride in a certain location when its a full moon but only when humidity is 80% but not suitable after 2 IPA pints, only on a 140mm bike and unrideable on a 150mm bike. But not so much on tyre casing. Apologies if this has been discussed and iv missed it.
NOTE this isnt a criticism of tyre manufacturers but just an observation that i dont see discussed and isnt mentioned in my riding group. Maybe I have more enthusiasm in corners than my friends haha.
I’m similarly sized and will be going back to dhr2 dh only in the rear just because of this feeling. I thought Cush Core pro would help, but it didn’t. Noticed it within 10 hours or so of ride time.
Question. I see lots of discussion re treads, compounds, casings, grip, trye damping and feel. But don't see this discussed. The tyre casing breaking down over...
Question. I see lots of discussion re treads, compounds, casings, grip, trye damping and feel. But don't see this discussed. The tyre casing breaking down over time, mainly speaking on the rear tyre in particular, but is a longer timeframe on front tyre.
For example, im not light (95kegs in riding gear), competent i guess. Ride with only DD or DH casing tyres on all bikes from trail to park (be it maxxis, continental, vittoria etc). I find the casing is breaking down long before the tread is wearing out. Support and tyre feel falling off drastically after 4-8weeks depending on the weather. probably most obvious by how much a removed tyre rolls into a wee ball and so pliable in your hands compared to a fresh DD/DH. Rear tyre pressure is 28-31psi tyre dependent. No inserts for a couple years. Over time the rear becomes a bit tooo forklift steery. Riding in Canterbury in NZ but all over south island of all type of soil and surface.
I end up replacing tyre due to feel on bike not tread. Is this just a me thing or other people in the same boat? There is huge debates in here about the best tyre to ride in a certain location when its a full moon but only when humidity is 80% but not suitable after 2 IPA pints, only on a 140mm bike and unrideable on a 150mm bike. But not so much on tyre casing. Apologies if this has been discussed and iv missed it.
NOTE this isnt a criticism of tyre manufacturers but just an observation that i dont see discussed and isnt mentioned in my riding group. Maybe I have more enthusiasm in corners than my friends haha.
yeah tire casing breaking down makes a huge feeling difference. for a DH casing, its pretty different after just a couple days going from stiff and supportive to more compliant. anything less casing wise just feels somewhat consistently soft from the get go
@ARonBurgundy Are you guys going to roll out your new stuff (the new casing, that new tread) soon?? Need to get on it! A bunch of the local DH teams are all putting in tire orders for this season. Vee dropped their Radials, and I'm hearing another one of your major competitors is dropping their new casing quite soon. It's Feb 10th, and the spring boom for purchases is starting in a coupe weeks.
CC: @schwalbai When are you dropping your other treads in Radial and the new 2:2:2 prototype? You're going to have some stiff (or should I say, supple) Radial competition very soon here. Time to move!
@ARonBurgundy Are you guys going to roll out your new stuff (the new casing, that new tread) soon?? Need to get on it! A bunch of...
@ARonBurgundy Are you guys going to roll out your new stuff (the new casing, that new tread) soon?? Need to get on it! A bunch of the local DH teams are all putting in tire orders for this season. Vee dropped their Radials, and I'm hearing another one of your major competitors is dropping their new casing quite soon. It's Feb 10th, and the spring boom for purchases is starting in a coupe weeks.
CC: @schwalbai When are you dropping your other treads in Radial and the new 2:2:2 prototype? You're going to have some stiff (or should I say, supple) Radial competition very soon here. Time to move!
Lots to be excited for this coming release season!
I'm stoked that riders will have lots of radial tires to choose from.
IIRC Vee and Vittoria (Lion tires) are the main bike tires factories in Thailand. So if another brand of tires is made in Thailand I would think there is a good chance it's one of those two. The other main bike tires factories are in other countries.
This will be the year of the "Radial" or other company's takes on it. Schwalbe should have had all their tires in Radial by this winter to capture early spring sales before the other big dawgs roll stuff out very soon. It was good to see a renaissance of the Schwalbe brand. But their major growth over the past 18 months is about to be derailed.
This will be the year of the "Radial" or other company's takes on it. Schwalbe should have had all their tires in Radial by this winter...
This will be the year of the "Radial" or other company's takes on it. Schwalbe should have had all their tires in Radial by this winter to capture early spring sales before the other big dawgs roll stuff out very soon. It was good to see a renaissance of the Schwalbe brand. But their major growth over the past 18 months is about to be derailed.
I wouldn't be so sure of that. In the US I've been consistently seeing Schwalbe radials for $80 on Amazon and bike online retailers for at least the past 9 months. Conti Enduro casing is $110 Maxxis DD is now up to freaking $115!! (I've had a new takeoff Assegai (yellow label) for sale for $75 for months and zero interest) I fully expect both those companies radial tires to be priced higher because it's the new hotness. I'd love to be wrong but I know they won't be any cheaper than current offerings so still $30+ more than Schwalbes. Conti can maybe charge a little more for their radials because their tires last so dang long. It'll still be hard to pass up a Tacky Chan under that $100 price point, and I'm a total Kryptotal R fanboy.
Question. I see lots of discussion re treads, compounds, casings, grip, trye damping and feel. But don't see this discussed. The tyre casing breaking down over...
Question. I see lots of discussion re treads, compounds, casings, grip, trye damping and feel. But don't see this discussed. The tyre casing breaking down over time, mainly speaking on the rear tyre in particular, but is a longer timeframe on front tyre.
For example, im not light (95kegs in riding gear), competent i guess. Ride with only DD or DH casing tyres on all bikes from trail to park (be it maxxis, continental, vittoria etc). I find the casing is breaking down long before the tread is wearing out. Support and tyre feel falling off drastically after 4-8weeks depending on the weather. probably most obvious by how much a removed tyre rolls into a wee ball and so pliable in your hands compared to a fresh DD/DH. Rear tyre pressure is 28-31psi tyre dependent. No inserts for a couple years. Over time the rear becomes a bit tooo forklift steery. Riding in Canterbury in NZ but all over south island of all type of soil and surface.
I end up replacing tyre due to feel on bike not tread. Is this just a me thing or other people in the same boat? There is huge debates in here about the best tyre to ride in a certain location when its a full moon but only when humidity is 80% but not suitable after 2 IPA pints, only on a 140mm bike and unrideable on a 150mm bike. But not so much on tyre casing. Apologies if this has been discussed and iv missed it.
NOTE this isnt a criticism of tyre manufacturers but just an observation that i dont see discussed and isnt mentioned in my riding group. Maybe I have more enthusiasm in corners than my friends haha.
This is definitely a thing, although more common among DH racers. There's a sweet spot for the casing feel that riders are looking for. A brand new tire needs a couple runs to soften up and then there are X (varies) number of runs with the casing in that sweet spot before it starts to go away. It's quite common for mechanics to swap out tires after a set amount of runs, long before the tread is gone.
@ARonBurgundy Are you guys going to roll out your new stuff (the new casing, that new tread) soon?? Need to get on it! A bunch of...
@ARonBurgundy Are you guys going to roll out your new stuff (the new casing, that new tread) soon?? Need to get on it! A bunch of the local DH teams are all putting in tire orders for this season. Vee dropped their Radials, and I'm hearing another one of your major competitors is dropping their new casing quite soon. It's Feb 10th, and the spring boom for purchases is starting in a coupe weeks.
CC: @schwalbai When are you dropping your other treads in Radial and the new 2:2:2 prototype? You're going to have some stiff (or should I say, supple) Radial competition very soon here. Time to move!
Unfortunately, it won't be until later in the summer for the stuff you're after.
I wouldn't be so sure of that. In the US I've been consistently seeing Schwalbe radials for $80 on Amazon and bike online retailers for at...
I wouldn't be so sure of that. In the US I've been consistently seeing Schwalbe radials for $80 on Amazon and bike online retailers for at least the past 9 months. Conti Enduro casing is $110 Maxxis DD is now up to freaking $115!! (I've had a new takeoff Assegai (yellow label) for sale for $75 for months and zero interest) I fully expect both those companies radial tires to be priced higher because it's the new hotness. I'd love to be wrong but I know they won't be any cheaper than current offerings so still $30+ more than Schwalbes. Conti can maybe charge a little more for their radials because their tires last so dang long. It'll still be hard to pass up a Tacky Chan under that $100 price point, and I'm a total Kryptotal R fanboy.
So sure of what? Not sure what point you're making here since it was in response to me, but I didn't say anything about pricing. My comment was that once the other brands release their Radial competitor casings, Schwalbe is going to fade back into the shadows again, like they were (in the US) prior to their Radial boom. It won't be that bad, but they're going to lose a lot of the steam they have behind them right now.
That said, regarding your comments on pricing: 1. Schwalbes were full price for a long time over the summer and into the early fall. Then a glut built up in the system from wholesalers and shops over-ordering. Sales on Radials were not common until this winter, though. And still today, if you're seeing a sale on a Schwalbe Radial, is much more common to be an Albert. Many people started with Alberts, then realized they're not Assegais and are moving to the more aggressive Magic Mary. So there is an oversupply of Alberts right now. You couldn't find a Mary in stock at all this fall in many places. That is changing now, too, as glut is building up.
2. When the new "Radials" (or their version of it) from Maxxis, Conti, and Specialized ship, they may be slightly higher--$5, $10/per tire. Hopefully not, but it's possible. I mean, in theory, they shouldn't be any more expensive since the primary difference will be the alignment of the fibers in the casings, but there could be a small bump in price. Keep in mind that Schwalbe Radials were $103 (same as Maxxis, and Conti locally) when they dropped, for many, many months while supply was short. Now there is a glut, so there are some discounts.
holy shit that’s a lot of spend. You are very committed to the Chans lol
The wear is significant already with the soft compound. Wonderful tire in the back though.
I have a fantasy of Schwalbe releasing Shredda radials in 3.0 width and their special cold weather compound the WC racers were running in Poland. Put them on my ebike, with soft coil suspension and full 27.5 for the ultimate snow bike.
You are already using so low pressures with fat tires and have a big contact patch, don't really see what radial would change for the better
Same contact patch at slightly higher pressures?
But why? Why would you need higher pressure in snow, fat tires do their job well already, that of being suspension and actually be able to stay on top of snow. Maybe in the 3" category, but that's just a stupid tire size anyway, not good enough for stay on top and wide enough not to carve through.
Most fat biking is in low tide snow, so you still get rocks and roots that sometimes poke out.
Also fat tires are undamped suspension, and they bob quite a bit on hard pack. Annoyingly so. Plus there is tire squirm, rim bottom out on hard compressions, etc. Really, not that different from normal sized tires.
Does anyone know what the Conti sidewall logos mean?
I think I remember this being a Super Soft rear tire, but I can't tell heads or tails from the sidewall:
That's a downhill casing, supersoft compound, but the Fr is "optimized for front wheel"
Thank you! Couldn't find this chart. Very helpful.
Ah yes, the periodic table of continental tire skus. If there ever was evidence of how impossible it is to keep mtb consumers happy, it's the list of tire mfg skus.
Trek would like a word
This is the full fat. Downhill riding (first icon with arrows pointing down) Super soft copmound (second icon with all dots filled in) Downhill casing (third icon with all dots filled in).
Question. I see lots of discussion re treads, compounds, casings, grip, trye damping and feel. But don't see this discussed. The tyre casing breaking down over time, mainly speaking on the rear tyre in particular, but is a longer timeframe on front tyre.
For example, im not light (95kegs in riding gear), competent i guess. Ride with only DD or DH casing tyres on all bikes from trail to park (be it maxxis, continental, vittoria etc). I find the casing is breaking down long before the tread is wearing out. Support and tyre feel falling off drastically after 4-8weeks depending on the weather. probably most obvious by how much a removed tyre rolls into a wee ball and so pliable in your hands compared to a fresh DD/DH. Rear tyre pressure is 28-31psi tyre dependent. No inserts for a couple years. Over time the rear becomes a bit tooo forklift steery. Riding in Canterbury in NZ but all over south island of all type of soil and surface.
I end up replacing tyre due to feel on bike not tread. Is this just a me thing or other people in the same boat? There is huge debates in here about the best tyre to ride in a certain location when its a full moon but only when humidity is 80% but not suitable after 2 IPA pints, only on a 140mm bike and unrideable on a 150mm bike. But not so much on tyre casing. Apologies if this has been discussed and iv missed it.
NOTE this isnt a criticism of tyre manufacturers but just an observation that i dont see discussed and isnt mentioned in my riding group. Maybe I have more enthusiasm in corners than my friends haha.
Add a fat insert. Maybe the odyssey one? Maxxis DH casing instead of double down.
I’m similarly sized and will be going back to dhr2 dh only in the rear just because of this feeling. I thought Cush Core pro would help, but it didn’t. Noticed it within 10 hours or so of ride time.
yeah tire casing breaking down makes a huge feeling difference. for a DH casing, its pretty different after just a couple days going from stiff and supportive to more compliant. anything less casing wise just feels somewhat consistently soft from the get go
i'll never understand the point of "riding style"and "chasing" logos telling me the same exact thing twice
https://www.bikeradar.com/news/vee-tire-co-rad-core-radial-casing-tyres
First (of many) Radial competitors to the market. Looks like they're not available for purchase yet.
@ARonBurgundy Are you guys going to roll out your new stuff (the new casing, that new tread) soon?? Need to get on it! A bunch of the local DH teams are all putting in tire orders for this season. Vee dropped their Radials, and I'm hearing another one of your major competitors is dropping their new casing quite soon. It's Feb 10th, and the spring boom for purchases is starting in a coupe weeks.
CC: @schwalbai When are you dropping your other treads in Radial and the new 2:2:2 prototype? You're going to have some stiff (or should I say, supple) Radial competition very soon here. Time to move!
Good news about these Vee tires.
Cmon Schwalbe, lets have those tacky chans, radial, enduro and DH casing, soft and super soft!!!
Lots to be excited for this coming release season!
I'm stoked that riders will have lots of radial tires to choose from.
If Vee makes the casing, I wouldn't be suprised to see it show up in the tires they produce for other brands.
Anybody know who else Vee makes tires for? I think they make the E13 tires, and probably others. Maaaaaaybe Specialized tires too?
IIRC Vee and Vittoria (Lion tires) are the main bike tires factories in Thailand. So if another brand of tires is made in Thailand I would think there is a good chance it's one of those two. The other main bike tires factories are in other countries.
This will be the year of the "Radial" or other company's takes on it. Schwalbe should have had all their tires in Radial by this winter to capture early spring sales before the other big dawgs roll stuff out very soon. It was good to see a renaissance of the Schwalbe brand. But their major growth over the past 18 months is about to be derailed.
I wouldn't be so sure of that. In the US I've been consistently seeing Schwalbe radials for $80 on Amazon and bike online retailers for at least the past 9 months. Conti Enduro casing is $110 Maxxis DD is now up to freaking $115!! (I've had a new takeoff Assegai (yellow label) for sale for $75 for months and zero interest) I fully expect both those companies radial tires to be priced higher because it's the new hotness. I'd love to be wrong but I know they won't be any cheaper than current offerings so still $30+ more than Schwalbes. Conti can maybe charge a little more for their radials because their tires last so dang long. It'll still be hard to pass up a Tacky Chan under that $100 price point, and I'm a total Kryptotal R fanboy.
Crazy prices over there. I picked up my radicals for 50-60€
This is definitely a thing, although more common among DH racers. There's a sweet spot for the casing feel that riders are looking for. A brand new tire needs a couple runs to soften up and then there are X (varies) number of runs with the casing in that sweet spot before it starts to go away. It's quite common for mechanics to swap out tires after a set amount of runs, long before the tread is gone.
Unfortunately, it won't be until later in the summer for the stuff you're after.
So sure of what? Not sure what point you're making here since it was in response to me, but I didn't say anything about pricing. My comment was that once the other brands release their Radial competitor casings, Schwalbe is going to fade back into the shadows again, like they were (in the US) prior to their Radial boom. It won't be that bad, but they're going to lose a lot of the steam they have behind them right now.
That said, regarding your comments on pricing:
1. Schwalbes were full price for a long time over the summer and into the early fall. Then a glut built up in the system from wholesalers and shops over-ordering. Sales on Radials were not common until this winter, though. And still today, if you're seeing a sale on a Schwalbe Radial, is much more common to be an Albert. Many people started with Alberts, then realized they're not Assegais and are moving to the more aggressive Magic Mary. So there is an oversupply of Alberts right now. You couldn't find a Mary in stock at all this fall in many places. That is changing now, too, as glut is building up.
2. When the new "Radials" (or their version of it) from Maxxis, Conti, and Specialized ship, they may be slightly higher--$5, $10/per tire. Hopefully not, but it's possible. I mean, in theory, they shouldn't be any more expensive since the primary difference will be the alignment of the fibers in the casings, but there could be a small bump in price. Keep in mind that Schwalbe Radials were $103 (same as Maxxis, and Conti locally) when they dropped, for many, many months while supply was short. Now there is a glut, so there are some discounts.
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