Anybody buying these enDHuro sub-200 dual crown builds? Are they valid or cheap fan service?

The crown offset makes quite the difference in steering lock.

My old boxxer had 10mm offset in the crown, overall offset 56mm. My current 40 has 18mm crown offset, overall offset 52mm.

Its has significantly more lock before the bumpers touch the frame.

damn it, my 2022 Levo is not dual crown compatible... 

You can have adapters for both tapered steerer and 15-20mm boost axle, so no extra lowers or lower crowns would be needed. As a matter of fact, that's exactly what I'm running on my C1 boxxer. Edit, I missed previous comments about reducer crown race, the axle adapter parts still valid though 😁

This is the way. 
It’s the future of high performance for sure.
Both : 1. Light dual crowns on enduro type chassis

And 2. Bad ass dual crowns on e-motorcycles 

100 percent 

5.6lbs (old) vs 6.25lbs (new)

Somehow missed this original thread last year but the recent updates caught my eye. Experimented on my Status 160 last fall right about when the Status 170 DH came out. Don't think it's condoned but only ran it for a few weeks while my primary fork was being serviced. Used this Wolftooth crown race adapter paired with a 200 x 27.5 Fox 40 for a full 27.5 setup, which based on my rough calc's kept the geo pretty damn close to the stock mullet configuration. Probably overkill for most of my normal riding, but as many others have said, I think dual crown ebikes make total sense and would like to see more that are compatible. 

So us weirdos that were riding 170mm Jr and Mr T's on our rigs in the late 90s/early aughts were trailblazers then?

I still lust after those slightly shorter travel lighter bikes from that period, an original Kona Stab with some Jr T forks was my absolute dream bike back then. 

I think I'd be more tempted to run a dual crown on my 170mm enduro bike than my ebike, mostly because I'm trying to keep the ebike's weight from getting out of control so that it rides more like a normal bike, and the enduro bike feels like a feather in comparison so whats another half pound or so.  The hassle of front wheel is kinda a thing though.

This is the way! The Bartlett is THE solution, but for some reason it gets no attention. I've had mine since 2023 and it's been amazing. Everything from singletrack in the PNW to Windrock this summer. I've put a ton of time riding all sorts of trails on a dual crown equipped enduro/freeride bike (Spindrift) and never once thought to myself that I wish I had a single crown. 

I definitely see some niggles from reducer crown races - mostly caused by people not preloading them enough, but that seems to be more common these days and can do more damage in a reducer set up than a normal tapered steerer. They can flex out of the bearing and bind up. 

Straight steerers have more options for angle/reach adjust in a DH bike so its probably pretty even either way IMO

I’m lazy. I’d switch my fork more often if it didn’t mean changing the headset.  For me the bigger question why not straight steerers on single crown forks?  Is it a legitimate benefit?  

This is a non-issue. 

You simply buy a race for your dual crown (its different) and you leave the race on your single crown. When you switch, these should stay put. 

I see no reason you should be swapping entire headsets. 

Maybe I'm misreading?

You are correct.  I did this to mount a straight tube manitou circus to my tapered steer tube dj frame.  Cane creek is the headset I'm using in this case, and you use one of these https://worldwidecyclery.com/products/cane-creek-110-series-alloy-52-30…

I’ve been thinking of this for a while now. I’m currently running a 38 with a Smashpot and was looking at an Intend fork or a dual crown. 
What about a Dorado? Upside down and dual crown. I would be super en vogue with the trend!

That was me and I was struggling to remember the details from back then so I went digging. Thought it was earlier in the 90's but it looks like JrT came out in '98 and was 130 travel. 170 didn't come out until '02. I think I ran the 130 on a Santa Cruz Heckler and then on a Giant AC. Also seems like I ran a SuperT as well, I do remember QR20. Might have see if I can find some old photos and then move this into the Back in the Day topic.

I love my DC Dorado, had been running it on my Canfield Lithium Enduro bike. I swapped it to my Gen 3 Levo and really struggled with tight switchbacks (Don Valley, Toronto). I think the reason they don’t work super well on e-bikes is the fat head and down tubes! I wonder if companies or aftermarket will start making wider crowns…

A good idea, but then you have a dropout problem. 

Totally agree with my Canfield Lithium and MRP Bartlett as a "Super" enduro bike. Just not perfect for tight trails. But wider crowns=wider lowers..Whole new fork. 

I understand they lowers will be wider, but there must be a way to engineer a dropout that comes inward? IDK, I'm not an engineer, but it should be possible; albeit, for a very small use-case.

I thought you were talking aftermarket. From the factory you 100% could get a significant more width being you have control of the dropouts, too.

I don't think this is a unique use case, and I also don't think we'd care if the uppers are  15-20mm further out on each side 

I wonder how many product people at FOX and Rockshox are wondering if we got a hold of there 2027 Plan book? 😀

MAKE DC FORKS E-BIKE APPROPRIATE

I feel like this could work on my ebike:

Looks super wide

It's been done before, the OG Monster T dropouts came in substantially and popped inside the lowers. Gave it a great stance and was pretty easy to turn. 

No mention of the intend dc fork in this thread so far. I think this one is the icing of the cake

https://www.intend-bc.com/products/infinity-en/?v=d88fc6edf21e

If you go through and have someone custom cut a new set of crowns, there's no real reason to not have em turn a new driveside hub spacer and axle for the same project, or just switch to a 150 OLD hub and a new axle. There was cat doing this for vintage Z1s for the fat bike market, new crown, bridge and axle to allow fitting a 150 hub and 4" clearance.

This might be an interesting CAD project to see how much additional steering radius you could eek out with various widths from stock on up. Also would be interesting to establish a 'base' turning radius using one frame as a control and fitting up a number of DC forks to see how much each brings to the table. Obviously one person's enough doesn't mean it will be for everybody.

I know we've all seen this exact setup before but love my 35mm Boxxer on my Patrol. 200mm up front with a Works angleset in +1 setting and the tubes are low enough in the crowns to get the BB to stock height. If it was a dedicated enduro bike I'd consider dropping the travel in the front but probably not. Spent 4 days on a Status 170 DH in Morzine and bottomed the 180mm front out a few times on Pleney steeps, which is closer to "enduro" terrain. If you can get the BB height close to stock I see no reason not to run 200mm travel.

A thought I've always had is this crop of bikes is the perfect to travel on planes with. Those trips usually involve mostly bike park, but it'd be great to have the gears and dropper to be able to mix it up with a trail ride. I'd ditch the gen 1 O-Chain for a current gen one that can be locked out. Really tempted to try a carbon Patrol or Spindrift with this same setup. 

Hoping the new Santa Cruz prototype we saw at MSA is a 180mm dual crown compatible trail bike.

Hey, im converting my patrol to the same thing. 27.5 front with the last gen boxxer? Cascade link. With the angle set at +1 and a bit of maths where the statchions sit in crown, you were able to be close to keeping the 63.5deg head angle too? Sorry for all the questions