Has anyone had Mavens grow the faintest film of mineral oil around the contact adjust dials when storing their bike vertically? It's almost like there's a...
Has anyone had Mavens grow the faintest film of mineral oil around the contact adjust dials when storing their bike vertically? It's almost like there's a 3-4mm oval of mineral oil dew around the adjuster rather than a drop coming out of a single, small spot. Only on the rear brake. Brake feels fine in the stand and up and down the street.
Oil that leaked out when removing the bleed syringe reappearing? I'm always finding oil in nooks that I missed cleaning up and had that thought. I can't imagine you wouldn't notice the system losing oil.
I see nothing that implies the new model will be mineral, while the calipers appears to be narrower ( running 1.8 floating rotors and still have pistons in on what looks like a V4 caliper, piston size wise )
Same machining as the V4 caliper but instead of the V4 logo it spots: GR4 and on the top it’s got 3 arrows pointing in different directions.
Not sure weather is a Team only spec V4 caliper with different laser etching or a full new caliper ( I think the last one )
What makes me thing it’s a whole new caliper is the fact that when Rob Warner went for a Factory Visit he got those brakes installed in one of his bikes and when pointing the camera towards them he said “ops let’s not zoom in too much here”
It’s still got the classic bleeding nipple, not the other “bolt” like the mineral calipers such as the RX4+
Master wise, it’s got what seems to be a bleeding port behind the reservoir, which is welcome, and some “evo” shorter and more “hocked” levers, that seems to be easily compatible with the current Tech4 lineup.
Given how long it took them to bring the new Tech4 from the Tech3 I wouldn’t expect them to rush into the market with these updates unlike some other brand pushing what can’t be nothing else than prototypes to the market given the speed.
From the other site, bleed port looks like it might be bleeding edge, not familiar enough with Hope's calipers to spot if there is anything else...
From the other site, bleed port looks like it might be bleeding edge, not familiar enough with Hope's calipers to spot if there is anything else different, or is this homebrew??
I am close to pulling the trigger on a pair of T4V4's but really dont want to get them and have the T4V4+'s or T5V5's roll out to the world the next week...
That is just the RX4+ caliper (mineral or DOT compatible). It's been around for a while now
I got a set of Intends recently and the bite point “grows” as the brakes warm up and I had to keep moving my levers closer and closer to the bars to compensate. This is something my Shimano 8120s did too. Is this normal for brakes or do I need to re-visit my bleed?
I experienced the same with the Trinitys I had last year. Bleeding them again helped get rid of that. Tap around to make sure you dislodge any stubborn air bubbles.
I got a set of Intends recently and the bite point “grows” as the brakes warm up and I had to keep moving my levers closer...
I got a set of Intends recently and the bite point “grows” as the brakes warm up and I had to keep moving my levers closer and closer to the bars to compensate. This is something my Shimano 8120s did too. Is this normal for brakes or do I need to re-visit my bleed?
I've had 3 sets and it's not normal at all.
I know these are perceived as being easy to bleed - and they are - but getting all the air out when they ship dry has been somewhat of a challenge for me. Not as bad as some others, but it's not as easy as a good factory bleed to start with either. I get why they ship them dry, if it helps them get more out then that's great, but you will need to work at it.
What I do is flush with fluid, push back and forth, extends the pistons out slightly, bleed (with something like two rotors in place), push pistons in, bleed again, then tap around and try to bleed them vertically, if possible. I then finish with following the instructions provided by Intend, which is basically the disconnect order. Keep in mind if you don't have a secure press on the syringe, you could introduce air between the nozzle and the caliper, so be sure it's pressed in there pretty good.
If it's still an issue then try and bleed again after a ride.
I got a set of Intends recently and the bite point “grows” as the brakes warm up and I had to keep moving my levers closer...
I got a set of Intends recently and the bite point “grows” as the brakes warm up and I had to keep moving my levers closer and closer to the bars to compensate. This is something my Shimano 8120s did too. Is this normal for brakes or do I need to re-visit my bleed?
I've had 3 sets and it's not normal at all. I know these are perceived as being easy to bleed - and they are - but getting...
I've had 3 sets and it's not normal at all.
I know these are perceived as being easy to bleed - and they are - but getting all the air out when they ship dry has been somewhat of a challenge for me. Not as bad as some others, but it's not as easy as a good factory bleed to start with either. I get why they ship them dry, if it helps them get more out then that's great, but you will need to work at it.
What I do is flush with fluid, push back and forth, extends the pistons out slightly, bleed (with something like two rotors in place), push pistons in, bleed again, then tap around and try to bleed them vertically, if possible. I then finish with following the instructions provided by Intend, which is basically the disconnect order. Keep in mind if you don't have a secure press on the syringe, you could introduce air between the nozzle and the caliper, so be sure it's pressed in there pretty good.
If it's still an issue then try and bleed again after a ride.
Okay thank you. This is my first time doing a full bleed on any set of brakes let alone a dry set (I’ve done a few lever bleeds before but that’s it) so it’s definitely been a learning process. Im having fun but a learning process nonetheless.
I did notice I had to push the fluid back and forth a few more times than the video showed just due to how many bubbles kept coming out. I did find zip-tieing the lever down and leaving it for a bit helped.
Okay thank you. This is my first time doing a full bleed on any set of brakes let alone a dry set (I’ve done a few...
Okay thank you. This is my first time doing a full bleed on any set of brakes let alone a dry set (I’ve done a few lever bleeds before but that’s it) so it’s definitely been a learning process. Im having fun but a learning process nonetheless.
I did notice I had to push the fluid back and forth a few more times than the video showed just due to how many bubbles kept coming out. I did find zip-tieing the lever down and leaving it for a bit helped.
Just keep in mind even small amounts of air can cause weird problems, so I would try it again until you see nothing coming out. It's a process but once you get it flushed through, you won't have the issue again.
Okay thank you. This is my first time doing a full bleed on any set of brakes let alone a dry set (I’ve done a few...
Okay thank you. This is my first time doing a full bleed on any set of brakes let alone a dry set (I’ve done a few lever bleeds before but that’s it) so it’s definitely been a learning process. Im having fun but a learning process nonetheless.
I did notice I had to push the fluid back and forth a few more times than the video showed just due to how many bubbles kept coming out. I did find zip-tieing the lever down and leaving it for a bit helped.
I would try the brake lever/zip tie/overnight trick, too. I've always read it was a Shimano necessity for getting air out of the lever (which sounds like your issue) but damn did it help my Mavens. I have no experience with Intends but bleeding anything from dry is going to take a little more effort.
Anyone got any scoop on the new Shimano (I assume it's the XTR) brakes dropping on 5th June?
Would be awesome if the calipers have sized up with some bigger pistons, haven't seen anything that looks like a new saint coming up - surely there must be something in development for their DH/Gravity brake when you've got the likes of Maven/Magura etc with much bigger calipers and pistons
I was watching a car rebuild video the other day (M539 Restorations) and got reminded again that cars use sealing boots over the piston to prevent dirt build-up related with retraction issues.
Has anyone in the MTB world tried this? Is this something that is present on motorcycles?
I was watching a car rebuild video the other day (M539 Restorations) and got reminded again that cars use sealing boots over the piston to prevent...
I was watching a car rebuild video the other day (M539 Restorations) and got reminded again that cars use sealing boots over the piston to prevent dirt build-up related with retraction issues.
Has anyone in the MTB world tried this? Is this something that is present on motorcycles?
Motorsport brakes don't use them and we are not even close to the mileage of passenger vehicles (or temperatures seen in motorsport I would think either) However most people never clean the pistons till they start leaking, there is certainly room for improvement on user side of equation.
No wow factor in the parking lot or actually using them to stop going down a trail? Shimanos are VERY wow in the parking lot because...
No wow factor in the parking lot or actually using them to stop going down a trail? Shimanos are VERY wow in the parking lot because of their on-off characteristic.
I took them down a few of my steepest gnarliest trails in my local woods. Almost rammed a tree when i pulled the brakes and expecting...
I took them down a few of my steepest gnarliest trails in my local woods. Almost rammed a tree when i pulled the brakes and expecting the bite point to come real fast.
Anyhow, first test means nothing. I'm still sure they're great so I will give it more time.
Ok. After a few weeks of testing and bikepark trips I can still say that I'm not really convinced these are much better (for me) than my old Shimanos. Could be a bad factory bleed or the Hayes pads being not the best. Sure there's stopping power but not any better than Saints. Modulation is a touch better maybe, but I never had issues modulating the Saints. It could be that my local terrain isn't steep/gnarly enough to utilize full potential or that my riding style doesn't cater to the full potential.
No wow factor in the parking lot or actually using them to stop going down a trail? Shimanos are VERY wow in the parking lot because...
No wow factor in the parking lot or actually using them to stop going down a trail? Shimanos are VERY wow in the parking lot because of their on-off characteristic.
I took them down a few of my steepest gnarliest trails in my local woods. Almost rammed a tree when i pulled the brakes and expecting...
I took them down a few of my steepest gnarliest trails in my local woods. Almost rammed a tree when i pulled the brakes and expecting the bite point to come real fast.
Anyhow, first test means nothing. I'm still sure they're great so I will give it more time.
Ok. After a few weeks of testing and bikepark trips I can still say that I'm not really convinced these are much better (for me) than...
Ok. After a few weeks of testing and bikepark trips I can still say that I'm not really convinced these are much better (for me) than my old Shimanos. Could be a bad factory bleed or the Hayes pads being not the best. Sure there's stopping power but not any better than Saints. Modulation is a touch better maybe, but I never had issues modulating the Saints. It could be that my local terrain isn't steep/gnarly enough to utilize full potential or that my riding style doesn't cater to the full potential.
A4's have 20% more hydraulic leverage compared to saints. Not saying that directly equates to 20% more power but it is a burlier brake. FWIW I never found either of the two hayes pad compounds to be that great. Been running sinter's green pad and it puts my A4 equal with the power of my Radic Kaha's with Trickstuff Power+ pads. I found that due to having more free-throw I run the A4 levers further out and it get my finger in aprox the same position as where I would want it to be.
I am preferring the A4s to my XT 8120. More power with less pull. I have MTX Red pads on both and no experience with stock Dominion pads.
I still think I prefer the modulation of my Cura 4s to the Dominions, but the lever feel is much better on the Dominions. The FCS of the Cura is really good, and changes the power deliver well. I like that I can customize the front and rear. But the lever is not as smooth and doesn't sit as close to the levers as I would prefer.
Whats the brake out there thats the mix between the two? TRP Evo Pro?
With shimano's new release, i cant help feel disappointed by the lack of Power increase(and no change in feel, other than no wandering point), still have to use big rotors and decent pads to get them up there with most other options.
definitly not worth 'upgrading' if you put Putoline in your current X200 series
A4's have 20% more hydraulic leverage compared to saints. Not saying that directly equates to 20% more power but it is a burlier brake. FWIW I...
A4's have 20% more hydraulic leverage compared to saints. Not saying that directly equates to 20% more power but it is a burlier brake. FWIW I never found either of the two hayes pad compounds to be that great. Been running sinter's green pad and it puts my A4 equal with the power of my Radic Kaha's with Trickstuff Power+ pads. I found that due to having more free-throw I run the A4 levers further out and it get my finger in aprox the same position as where I would want it to be.
Yeah I have no doubt that they're stronger on paper. I'm just not that blown away from my riding and from all the hype I've heard. I will try different pads for sure and do a full bleed. Also doing the same regarding the free throw. One thing I like is that i've smashed the levers into trees without no damage so that's a big upgrade at least from the Shimano lever blades.
I recently acquired a Pinner Bigger Bleed cup with SRAM fitting for my Mavens just to try something different. I've never bled any brakes that required a cup before, but wanted to try because a) it's such a large volume of oil that it should be easier to fully flush the system and b) I feel like relying on vacuum from 2 syringes exposes you to pulling air in from seals. Any advanced tips on how to best use a bleed cup with SRAM/Bleeding Edge fitting brakes?
I did a couple of bleeds on my bikes with it to try it out, and basically started by drawing fluid down from the cup out the caliper (to ensure there was no air at the Bleeding Edge connection there). Then I clamped the caliper syringe, degassed the fluid at that end, unclamped it, and pushed fluid back up to the cup. I repeated that cycle a few times, clamped off the syringe, closed Bleeding Edge fitting, squeezed lever a few times until it got firm, then plugged the cup and closed up the system.
I recently acquired a Pinner Bigger Bleed cup with SRAM fitting for my Mavens just to try something different. I've never bled any brakes that required...
I recently acquired a Pinner Bigger Bleed cup with SRAM fitting for my Mavens just to try something different. I've never bled any brakes that required a cup before, but wanted to try because a) it's such a large volume of oil that it should be easier to fully flush the system and b) I feel like relying on vacuum from 2 syringes exposes you to pulling air in from seals. Any advanced tips on how to best use a bleed cup with SRAM/Bleeding Edge fitting brakes?
I did a couple of bleeds on my bikes with it to try it out, and basically started by drawing fluid down from the cup out the caliper (to ensure there was no air at the Bleeding Edge connection there). Then I clamped the caliper syringe, degassed the fluid at that end, unclamped it, and pushed fluid back up to the cup. I repeated that cycle a few times, clamped off the syringe, closed Bleeding Edge fitting, squeezed lever a few times until it got firm, then plugged the cup and closed up the system.
How did it turn out?
Mixed experiences with vacuum bleeds at the caliper, on the rear brake it pulls bubbles on no end and front brake i can get a big succ no problem
I recently acquired a Pinner Bigger Bleed cup with SRAM fitting for my Mavens just to try something different. I've never bled any brakes that required...
I recently acquired a Pinner Bigger Bleed cup with SRAM fitting for my Mavens just to try something different. I've never bled any brakes that required a cup before, but wanted to try because a) it's such a large volume of oil that it should be easier to fully flush the system and b) I feel like relying on vacuum from 2 syringes exposes you to pulling air in from seals. Any advanced tips on how to best use a bleed cup with SRAM/Bleeding Edge fitting brakes?
I did a couple of bleeds on my bikes with it to try it out, and basically started by drawing fluid down from the cup out the caliper (to ensure there was no air at the Bleeding Edge connection there). Then I clamped the caliper syringe, degassed the fluid at that end, unclamped it, and pushed fluid back up to the cup. I repeated that cycle a few times, clamped off the syringe, closed Bleeding Edge fitting, squeezed lever a few times until it got firm, then plugged the cup and closed up the system.
How did it turn out?Mixed experiences with vacuum bleeds at the caliper, on the rear brake it pulls bubbles on no end and front brake i...
How did it turn out?
Mixed experiences with vacuum bleeds at the caliper, on the rear brake it pulls bubbles on no end and front brake i can get a big succ no problem
I did a 1 hour ride on one of the 2 bikes I bled with the cup yesterday, and no weirdness to report. The bleed on those was already damn good, I just had noticed that very rarely when going through a fast rough section that the lever would pump out a tiny bit until it was pulled next. My thought was there was a tiny bubble up near the lever that was expanding. That didn't happen yesterday after the cup bleed but like I mentioned, this was extremely rare behavior. If you plug the cup and pull with the caliper syringe, you will still generate a big stream of bubbles (too much to be air hiding in the system, must be bypassing some seal somewhere, most likely the Bleeding Edge port).
Alright, so to save money this year (as I've already spent too much on other upgrades) I am changing my Code Rs to RSC levers. Got an insane deal on eBay from a take-off set.
Curious to know if there are any weird tips for the bleed. I have bleed my Guide RSCs a few times but they still feel a little mushy. Strong, but mushy.
I am using a Bleed Zone pro kit with the bleeding edge adapter and the syringes that can lock.
Alright, so to save money this year (as I've already spent too much on other upgrades) I am changing my Code Rs to RSC levers. Got...
Alright, so to save money this year (as I've already spent too much on other upgrades) I am changing my Code Rs to RSC levers. Got an insane deal on eBay from a take-off set.
Curious to know if there are any weird tips for the bleed. I have bleed my Guide RSCs a few times but they still feel a little mushy. Strong, but mushy.
I am using a Bleed Zone pro kit with the bleeding edge adapter and the syringes that can lock.
Do you know already how to use the contact adjust while bleeding?
Alright, so to save money this year (as I've already spent too much on other upgrades) I am changing my Code Rs to RSC levers. Got...
Alright, so to save money this year (as I've already spent too much on other upgrades) I am changing my Code Rs to RSC levers. Got an insane deal on eBay from a take-off set.
Curious to know if there are any weird tips for the bleed. I have bleed my Guide RSCs a few times but they still feel a little mushy. Strong, but mushy.
I am using a Bleed Zone pro kit with the bleeding edge adapter and the syringes that can lock.
At the end of the bleed after you close the master cylinder port, you can over fill the caliper a tiny bit by pushing on that syringe while closing off the bleeding edge port. It'll give you less lever throw. Don't overdo it though.
After reading about the new XTR brakes needing low viscosity oil and shimano saying you should NOT use that oil on their older brakes, I'm wondering if I messed up my Lewis LHP's by using likewater low viscosity fluid. I've bled these brakes several times and it seems like what's happening is some oil is leaking out of the master cylinder piston. They feel great right after the bleed then after a ride or two, I start seeing oil droplets around that area of the master cylinder. I've been in a very slow conversation on instagram with Lewis, and last I heard from them is that I should check the piston sleeve. So I took it apart and piston and all the seals look fine. But if they're swollen from the wrong the brake fluid, they wouldn't necessary look bad right? So I think I'll order some Lewis fluid and try a full bleed with that. But will that revive the seals? Or do they need replacing? Anyone ever have issues because of using lower viscosity fluid than the recommended fluid?
After reading about the new XTR brakes needing low viscosity oil and shimano saying you should NOT use that oil on their older brakes, I'm wondering...
After reading about the new XTR brakes needing low viscosity oil and shimano saying you should NOT use that oil on their older brakes, I'm wondering if I messed up my Lewis LHP's by using likewater low viscosity fluid. I've bled these brakes several times and it seems like what's happening is some oil is leaking out of the master cylinder piston. They feel great right after the bleed then after a ride or two, I start seeing oil droplets around that area of the master cylinder. I've been in a very slow conversation on instagram with Lewis, and last I heard from them is that I should check the piston sleeve. So I took it apart and piston and all the seals look fine. But if they're swollen from the wrong the brake fluid, they wouldn't necessary look bad right? So I think I'll order some Lewis fluid and try a full bleed with that. But will that revive the seals? Or do they need replacing? Anyone ever have issues because of using lower viscosity fluid than the recommended fluid?
that's just marketing bs to get you to get the new brakes, people have been doing that for years on older shimanos, it could just be a bad seal or a tolerance issue
After reading about the new XTR brakes needing low viscosity oil and shimano saying you should NOT use that oil on their older brakes, I'm wondering...
After reading about the new XTR brakes needing low viscosity oil and shimano saying you should NOT use that oil on their older brakes, I'm wondering if I messed up my Lewis LHP's by using likewater low viscosity fluid. I've bled these brakes several times and it seems like what's happening is some oil is leaking out of the master cylinder piston. They feel great right after the bleed then after a ride or two, I start seeing oil droplets around that area of the master cylinder. I've been in a very slow conversation on instagram with Lewis, and last I heard from them is that I should check the piston sleeve. So I took it apart and piston and all the seals look fine. But if they're swollen from the wrong the brake fluid, they wouldn't necessary look bad right? So I think I'll order some Lewis fluid and try a full bleed with that. But will that revive the seals? Or do they need replacing? Anyone ever have issues because of using lower viscosity fluid than the recommended fluid?
in theory, it shouldn't matter but that doesn't mean that everything is sympatico. There is always the chance that a co developed their fluid and seal composition formulas in house and the two are tied together. Lewis doesn't show their fluid on their website, but by color it at least looks like Maxima, same as Sram's. My guess would be that LikeWater's viscosity allows it to creep past the seals. Some components require specific fluid weights for their mechanical properties, and indeed that's one of the reasons semibath oils tend to be heavier. They stick to the slidey bits and are retained by a dust seal rather than oil seal, both decreasing friction. Seal shape and surface finishes are generally the reason for the specified weights. Full disclosure, I've run Like Water in other mineral oil systems without issue (indeed, way better in cold than Shimano's red juice), I just can't comment on Lewis directly. To that end, I'd drain the system and rebleed with the proper fluid 2x to insure things and then see if the weep creeps back. Checking out the MSDS sheets from both wouldn't hurt either.
If anything, these situs show one real pita for shops and manufacturers to monitor, insuring specified fluids go into their units. The lack of standardization in mineral oils is a helluva nuisance, and one that is not bemoaned enough by consumers/shops/OEs. I've 3 diff bottles of mineral oil in my chemical bin, simply because I needed them at one point to work on others' bikes, and I'm not a shop. Guessing the Magura will be the last bottle standing.
Alright, so to save money this year (as I've already spent too much on other upgrades) I am changing my Code Rs to RSC levers. Got...
Alright, so to save money this year (as I've already spent too much on other upgrades) I am changing my Code Rs to RSC levers. Got an insane deal on eBay from a take-off set.
Curious to know if there are any weird tips for the bleed. I have bleed my Guide RSCs a few times but they still feel a little mushy. Strong, but mushy.
I am using a Bleed Zone pro kit with the bleeding edge adapter and the syringes that can lock.
I did a 1 hour ride on one of the 2 bikes I bled with the cup yesterday, and no weirdness to report. The bleed on...
I did a 1 hour ride on one of the 2 bikes I bled with the cup yesterday, and no weirdness to report. The bleed on those was already damn good, I just had noticed that very rarely when going through a fast rough section that the lever would pump out a tiny bit until it was pulled next. My thought was there was a tiny bubble up near the lever that was expanding. That didn't happen yesterday after the cup bleed but like I mentioned, this was extremely rare behavior. If you plug the cup and pull with the caliper syringe, you will still generate a big stream of bubbles (too much to be air hiding in the system, must be bypassing some seal somewhere, most likely the Bleeding Edge port).
in my experience of installing many sets, when you vacuum the caliper - make sure you only have the bleeding open a tiny bit and pull gently and smoothly. bonus tip, hold the caliper with bleeding edge upright and also move the pistons a little, this will help dislodge any stuck behind a piston.
Oil that leaked out when removing the bleed syringe reappearing? I'm always finding oil in nooks that I missed cleaning up and had that thought. I can't imagine you wouldn't notice the system losing oil.
To answer Tech Rumors about Hope brakes
I see nothing that implies the new model will be mineral, while the calipers appears to be narrower ( running 1.8 floating rotors and still have pistons in on what looks like a V4 caliper, piston size wise )
Same machining as the V4 caliper but instead of the V4 logo it spots: GR4 and on the top it’s got 3 arrows pointing in different directions.
Not sure weather is a Team only spec V4 caliper with different laser etching or a full new caliper ( I think the last one )
What makes me thing it’s a whole new caliper is the fact that when Rob Warner went for a Factory Visit he got those brakes installed in one of his bikes and when pointing the camera towards them he said “ops let’s not zoom in too much here”
It’s still got the classic bleeding nipple, not the other “bolt” like the mineral calipers such as the RX4+
Master wise, it’s got what seems to be a bleeding port behind the reservoir, which is welcome, and some “evo” shorter and more “hocked” levers, that seems to be easily compatible with the current Tech4 lineup.
Given how long it took them to bring the new Tech4 from the Tech3 I wouldn’t expect them to rush into the market with these updates unlike some other brand pushing what can’t be nothing else than prototypes to the market given the speed.
That is just the RX4+ caliper (mineral or DOT compatible). It's been around for a while now
I got a set of Intends recently and the bite point “grows” as the brakes warm up and I had to keep moving my levers closer and closer to the bars to compensate. This is something my Shimano 8120s did too. Is this normal for brakes or do I need to re-visit my bleed?
I experienced the same with the Trinitys I had last year. Bleeding them again helped get rid of that. Tap around to make sure you dislodge any stubborn air bubbles.
I've had 3 sets and it's not normal at all.
I know these are perceived as being easy to bleed - and they are - but getting all the air out when they ship dry has been somewhat of a challenge for me. Not as bad as some others, but it's not as easy as a good factory bleed to start with either. I get why they ship them dry, if it helps them get more out then that's great, but you will need to work at it.
What I do is flush with fluid, push back and forth, extends the pistons out slightly, bleed (with something like two rotors in place), push pistons in, bleed again, then tap around and try to bleed them vertically, if possible. I then finish with following the instructions provided by Intend, which is basically the disconnect order. Keep in mind if you don't have a secure press on the syringe, you could introduce air between the nozzle and the caliper, so be sure it's pressed in there pretty good.
If it's still an issue then try and bleed again after a ride.
Okay thank you. This is my first time doing a full bleed on any set of brakes let alone a dry set (I’ve done a few lever bleeds before but that’s it) so it’s definitely been a learning process. Im having fun but a learning process nonetheless.
I did notice I had to push the fluid back and forth a few more times than the video showed just due to how many bubbles kept coming out. I did find zip-tieing the lever down and leaving it for a bit helped.
Just keep in mind even small amounts of air can cause weird problems, so I would try it again until you see nothing coming out. It's a process but once you get it flushed through, you won't have the issue again.
I would try the brake lever/zip tie/overnight trick, too. I've always read it was a Shimano necessity for getting air out of the lever (which sounds like your issue) but damn did it help my Mavens. I have no experience with Intends but bleeding anything from dry is going to take a little more effort.
https://www.pinkbike.com/news/spotted-hopes-new-gb4-brakes.html
well here goes it breaking into the media despite being out there for awhile. why are media sites so slow these days?
Anyone got any scoop on the new Shimano (I assume it's the XTR) brakes dropping on 5th June?
Would be awesome if the calipers have sized up with some bigger pistons, haven't seen anything that looks like a new saint coming up - surely there must be something in development for their DH/Gravity brake when you've got the likes of Maven/Magura etc with much bigger calipers and pistons
I was watching a car rebuild video the other day (M539 Restorations) and got reminded again that cars use sealing boots over the piston to prevent dirt build-up related with retraction issues.
Has anyone in the MTB world tried this? Is this something that is present on motorcycles?
Motorsport brakes don't use them and we are not even close to the mileage of passenger vehicles (or temperatures seen in motorsport I would think either) However most people never clean the pistons till they start leaking, there is certainly room for improvement on user side of equation.
Ok. After a few weeks of testing and bikepark trips I can still say that I'm not really convinced these are much better (for me) than my old Shimanos. Could be a bad factory bleed or the Hayes pads being not the best. Sure there's stopping power but not any better than Saints. Modulation is a touch better maybe, but I never had issues modulating the Saints. It could be that my local terrain isn't steep/gnarly enough to utilize full potential or that my riding style doesn't cater to the full potential.
A4's have 20% more hydraulic leverage compared to saints. Not saying that directly equates to 20% more power but it is a burlier brake. FWIW I never found either of the two hayes pad compounds to be that great. Been running sinter's green pad and it puts my A4 equal with the power of my Radic Kaha's with Trickstuff Power+ pads. I found that due to having more free-throw I run the A4 levers further out and it get my finger in aprox the same position as where I would want it to be.
I am preferring the A4s to my XT 8120. More power with less pull. I have MTX Red pads on both and no experience with stock Dominion pads.
I still think I prefer the modulation of my Cura 4s to the Dominions, but the lever feel is much better on the Dominions. The FCS of the Cura is really good, and changes the power deliver well. I like that I can customize the front and rear. But the lever is not as smooth and doesn't sit as close to the levers as I would prefer.
Whats the brake out there thats the mix between the two? TRP Evo Pro?
With shimano's new release, i cant help feel disappointed by the lack of Power increase(and no change in feel, other than no wandering point), still have to use big rotors and decent pads to get them up there with most other options.
definitly not worth 'upgrading' if you put Putoline in your current X200 series
Yeah I have no doubt that they're stronger on paper. I'm just not that blown away from my riding and from all the hype I've heard. I will try different pads for sure and do a full bleed. Also doing the same regarding the free throw. One thing I like is that i've smashed the levers into trees without no damage so that's a big upgrade at least from the Shimano lever blades.
I recently acquired a Pinner Bigger Bleed cup with SRAM fitting for my Mavens just to try something different. I've never bled any brakes that required a cup before, but wanted to try because a) it's such a large volume of oil that it should be easier to fully flush the system and b) I feel like relying on vacuum from 2 syringes exposes you to pulling air in from seals. Any advanced tips on how to best use a bleed cup with SRAM/Bleeding Edge fitting brakes?
I did a couple of bleeds on my bikes with it to try it out, and basically started by drawing fluid down from the cup out the caliper (to ensure there was no air at the Bleeding Edge connection there). Then I clamped the caliper syringe, degassed the fluid at that end, unclamped it, and pushed fluid back up to the cup. I repeated that cycle a few times, clamped off the syringe, closed Bleeding Edge fitting, squeezed lever a few times until it got firm, then plugged the cup and closed up the system.
How did it turn out?
Mixed experiences with vacuum bleeds at the caliper, on the rear brake it pulls bubbles on no end and front brake i can get a big succ no problem
I did a 1 hour ride on one of the 2 bikes I bled with the cup yesterday, and no weirdness to report. The bleed on those was already damn good, I just had noticed that very rarely when going through a fast rough section that the lever would pump out a tiny bit until it was pulled next. My thought was there was a tiny bubble up near the lever that was expanding. That didn't happen yesterday after the cup bleed but like I mentioned, this was extremely rare behavior. If you plug the cup and pull with the caliper syringe, you will still generate a big stream of bubbles (too much to be air hiding in the system, must be bypassing some seal somewhere, most likely the Bleeding Edge port).
Alright, so to save money this year (as I've already spent too much on other upgrades) I am changing my Code Rs to RSC levers. Got an insane deal on eBay from a take-off set.
Curious to know if there are any weird tips for the bleed. I have bleed my Guide RSCs a few times but they still feel a little mushy. Strong, but mushy.
I am using a Bleed Zone pro kit with the bleeding edge adapter and the syringes that can lock.
Do you know already how to use the contact adjust while bleeding?
At the end of the bleed after you close the master cylinder port, you can over fill the caliper a tiny bit by pushing on that syringe while closing off the bleeding edge port. It'll give you less lever throw. Don't overdo it though.
After reading about the new XTR brakes needing low viscosity oil and shimano saying you should NOT use that oil on their older brakes, I'm wondering if I messed up my Lewis LHP's by using likewater low viscosity fluid. I've bled these brakes several times and it seems like what's happening is some oil is leaking out of the master cylinder piston. They feel great right after the bleed then after a ride or two, I start seeing oil droplets around that area of the master cylinder. I've been in a very slow conversation on instagram with Lewis, and last I heard from them is that I should check the piston sleeve. So I took it apart and piston and all the seals look fine. But if they're swollen from the wrong the brake fluid, they wouldn't necessary look bad right? So I think I'll order some Lewis fluid and try a full bleed with that. But will that revive the seals? Or do they need replacing? Anyone ever have issues because of using lower viscosity fluid than the recommended fluid?
that's just marketing bs to get you to get the new brakes, people have been doing that for years on older shimanos, it could just be a bad seal or a tolerance issue
in theory, it shouldn't matter but that doesn't mean that everything is sympatico. There is always the chance that a co developed their fluid and seal composition formulas in house and the two are tied together. Lewis doesn't show their fluid on their website, but by color it at least looks like Maxima, same as Sram's. My guess would be that LikeWater's viscosity allows it to creep past the seals. Some components require specific fluid weights for their mechanical properties, and indeed that's one of the reasons semibath oils tend to be heavier. They stick to the slidey bits and are retained by a dust seal rather than oil seal, both decreasing friction. Seal shape and surface finishes are generally the reason for the specified weights. Full disclosure, I've run Like Water in other mineral oil systems without issue (indeed, way better in cold than Shimano's red juice), I just can't comment on Lewis directly. To that end, I'd drain the system and rebleed with the proper fluid 2x to insure things and then see if the weep creeps back. Checking out the MSDS sheets from both wouldn't hurt either.
If anything, these situs show one real pita for shops and manufacturers to monitor, insuring specified fluids go into their units. The lack of standardization in mineral oils is a helluva nuisance, and one that is not bemoaned enough by consumers/shops/OEs. I've 3 diff bottles of mineral oil in my chemical bin, simply because I needed them at one point to work on others' bikes, and I'm not a shop. Guessing the Magura will be the last bottle standing.
I mean I totally know how to use the contact adjust while bleeding, but just for anyone who doesn't know, what is your tip?
in my experience of installing many sets, when you vacuum the caliper - make sure you only have the bleeding open a tiny bit and pull gently and smoothly.
bonus tip, hold the caliper with bleeding edge upright and also move the pistons a little, this will help dislodge any stuck behind a piston.
Does anyone know of any companies besides TRP making thicker rotors in a 220? Excluding those super wide hope floating ones, I can’t afford those.
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