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Keep them if they’re good
Next time I’d go for 2.3mm thickness it’s nice to have rotors that stay straight
They are pretty good. Currently on the trail bike but I have some centerlines that can go on there, they will go on my new dh bike.
Just to add to this I finally got all parts mounted and tested(Hope Tech 4 V4. Only bedded in, but still...), and as someone who needed everything I at least felt the TRP RS05E discs made the most sense given the calipers are rated for even wider discs.
As an extra first impression I actually feel the bite on these are very sharp and strong, unlike a lot of people claim online. I will of course have to evaluate more over time to see how they cope, but I was expecting way worse from the spongy comments online. How much is from the steel braided hoses I personally cannot claim, because I have only tried them. I feel it's probably down to a combination of that + setup/bleed.
Now I can at least finally start the season.
Love to see that we came to the same conclusion and got the same parts, please after a few rides let me know what pads you ended up choosing and how's the noise, i'm starting to think something's off by the noise i'm getting, also annoying that with the same exact set up your brakes bite perfectly on the rotor while mines were biting too low on the rotor, wondering why given the adapters are machined and with all the previous set ups on magura it was a perfect height rotor/pad match
My plan is to just use and wear out the stock green pads, but next month I'm ordering Sinter green pads to try next as a comparison to the "Hope" green pads.
I have no real experience with good organic pads prior to this, so I thought I'd just try the most grabby first, and only consider other options if I feel the need. I ride mixed conditions and won't expect miracles in poor conditions. I'll judge these pads mostly for performance in the dry.
I use these brake adaptors if it is of any help. I only use the provided bolts/washers and in the orientation recommended by Hope. Other than that I cannot say why you get another result unless you're running the HBML adaptor aimed only for +20mm instead of the +23mm.
Yeah nah, same adapters we’ve got, let’s see if those pads will be noisy after a few rides on those trp rotors
Hope Green will have a bit more bite than Sinter Green, but overall power is about the same. Noise was about the same aswell. The Sinter just feel like they don't have that aggressive first bite into them.
The paint on the backplate of the Sinter is also a bit of a bother when you have hollow pistons like Trickstuff, Radic, Intend, ... as the piston "carves" into the paint for the first ride or 2, and then settles. But no problem there with the V4, the phenolic bit inside the pistons will be the contact point.
That piston settling into pad backing is one of the best ways to reduce pad rattling.
Galfer all the things!!🙌
From the other site, bleed port looks like it might be bleeding edge, not familiar enough with Hope's calipers to spot if there is anything else different, or is this homebrew??
I am close to pulling the trigger on a pair of T4V4's but really dont want to get them and have the T4V4+'s or T5V5's roll out to the world the next week...
Don’t worry, it’s just the gravel mineral oil caliper, In a PM configuration, nothing new, and you wouldn’t want this over the V4 regardless
I'm in the same boat, but I don't need the brakes until September so I'll hold out a few more months before buying.
Tech 5 lever with a bleed port would be nice.
Has anyone had Mavens grow the faintest film of mineral oil around the contact adjust dials when storing their bike vertically? It's almost like there's a 3-4mm oval of mineral oil dew around the adjuster rather than a drop coming out of a single, small spot. Only on the rear brake. Brake feels fine in the stand and up and down the street.
Oil that leaked out when removing the bleed syringe reappearing? I'm always finding oil in nooks that I missed cleaning up and had that thought. I can't imagine you wouldn't notice the system losing oil.
To answer Tech Rumors about Hope brakes
I see nothing that implies the new model will be mineral, while the calipers appears to be narrower ( running 1.8 floating rotors and still have pistons in on what looks like a V4 caliper, piston size wise )
Same machining as the V4 caliper but instead of the V4 logo it spots: GR4 and on the top it’s got 3 arrows pointing in different directions.
Not sure weather is a Team only spec V4 caliper with different laser etching or a full new caliper ( I think the last one )
What makes me thing it’s a whole new caliper is the fact that when Rob Warner went for a Factory Visit he got those brakes installed in one of his bikes and when pointing the camera towards them he said “ops let’s not zoom in too much here”
It’s still got the classic bleeding nipple, not the other “bolt” like the mineral calipers such as the RX4+
Master wise, it’s got what seems to be a bleeding port behind the reservoir, which is welcome, and some “evo” shorter and more “hocked” levers, that seems to be easily compatible with the current Tech4 lineup.
Given how long it took them to bring the new Tech4 from the Tech3 I wouldn’t expect them to rush into the market with these updates unlike some other brand pushing what can’t be nothing else than prototypes to the market given the speed.
That is just the RX4+ caliper (mineral or DOT compatible). It's been around for a while now
I got a set of Intends recently and the bite point “grows” as the brakes warm up and I had to keep moving my levers closer and closer to the bars to compensate. This is something my Shimano 8120s did too. Is this normal for brakes or do I need to re-visit my bleed?
I experienced the same with the Trinitys I had last year. Bleeding them again helped get rid of that. Tap around to make sure you dislodge any stubborn air bubbles.
I've had 3 sets and it's not normal at all.
I know these are perceived as being easy to bleed - and they are - but getting all the air out when they ship dry has been somewhat of a challenge for me. Not as bad as some others, but it's not as easy as a good factory bleed to start with either. I get why they ship them dry, if it helps them get more out then that's great, but you will need to work at it.
What I do is flush with fluid, push back and forth, extends the pistons out slightly, bleed (with something like two rotors in place), push pistons in, bleed again, then tap around and try to bleed them vertically, if possible. I then finish with following the instructions provided by Intend, which is basically the disconnect order. Keep in mind if you don't have a secure press on the syringe, you could introduce air between the nozzle and the caliper, so be sure it's pressed in there pretty good.
If it's still an issue then try and bleed again after a ride.
Okay thank you. This is my first time doing a full bleed on any set of brakes let alone a dry set (I’ve done a few lever bleeds before but that’s it) so it’s definitely been a learning process. Im having fun but a learning process nonetheless.
I did notice I had to push the fluid back and forth a few more times than the video showed just due to how many bubbles kept coming out. I did find zip-tieing the lever down and leaving it for a bit helped.
Just keep in mind even small amounts of air can cause weird problems, so I would try it again until you see nothing coming out. It's a process but once you get it flushed through, you won't have the issue again.
I would try the brake lever/zip tie/overnight trick, too. I've always read it was a Shimano necessity for getting air out of the lever (which sounds like your issue) but damn did it help my Mavens. I have no experience with Intends but bleeding anything from dry is going to take a little more effort.
You need to burp the lever after you've kept it pressed in over night or it would serve no purpose. If there is air there, it needs to come out hence the lever burp. It's also not a Shimano thing, it's just a hydraulic brake thing. I've done it on my Hope brakes as well.
https://www.pinkbike.com/news/spotted-hopes-new-gb4-brakes.html
well here goes it breaking into the media despite being out there for awhile. why are media sites so slow these days?
Anyone got any scoop on the new Shimano (I assume it's the XTR) brakes dropping on 5th June?
Would be awesome if the calipers have sized up with some bigger pistons, haven't seen anything that looks like a new saint coming up - surely there must be something in development for their DH/Gravity brake when you've got the likes of Maven/Magura etc with much bigger calipers and pistons
I was watching a car rebuild video the other day (M539 Restorations) and got reminded again that cars use sealing boots over the piston to prevent dirt build-up related with retraction issues.
Has anyone in the MTB world tried this? Is this something that is present on motorcycles?
Motorsport brakes don't use them and we are not even close to the mileage of passenger vehicles (or temperatures seen in motorsport I would think either) However most people never clean the pistons till they start leaking, there is certainly room for improvement on user side of equation.
Ok. After a few weeks of testing and bikepark trips I can still say that I'm not really convinced these are much better (for me) than my old Shimanos. Could be a bad factory bleed or the Hayes pads being not the best. Sure there's stopping power but not any better than Saints. Modulation is a touch better maybe, but I never had issues modulating the Saints. It could be that my local terrain isn't steep/gnarly enough to utilize full potential or that my riding style doesn't cater to the full potential.
A4's have 20% more hydraulic leverage compared to saints. Not saying that directly equates to 20% more power but it is a burlier brake. FWIW I never found either of the two hayes pad compounds to be that great. Been running sinter's green pad and it puts my A4 equal with the power of my Radic Kaha's with Trickstuff Power+ pads. I found that due to having more free-throw I run the A4 levers further out and it get my finger in aprox the same position as where I would want it to be.
I am preferring the A4s to my XT 8120. More power with less pull. I have MTX Red pads on both and no experience with stock Dominion pads.
I still think I prefer the modulation of my Cura 4s to the Dominions, but the lever feel is much better on the Dominions. The FCS of the Cura is really good, and changes the power deliver well. I like that I can customize the front and rear. But the lever is not as smooth and doesn't sit as close to the levers as I would prefer.
Whats the brake out there thats the mix between the two? TRP Evo Pro?
Post a reply to: Nerding out on Brakes shall we? Not another tech deraliment