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So theres a few things - Most riders, even the best ones spend for more time on the rear brake so it will get hotter faster, and this only gets more pronounced on steeper/faster tracks. The terrain is a lot more uneven and loose which makes it tricky to apply maximum front brake for every corner, plus a rider can shift their weight backwards much more than a car or motorcycle can. The other thing is polymers have a non-linear relationship between load and friction, which means there are diminishing returns to loading the front wheel under braking. ie if...

I challenge anyone that believes they do more braking with the front than with the rear to mount some brake ace data acquisition and prove it

Are any of us getting front brake fade in a big way? Maybe if you have huge sustained steep trails? I've not experienced it at Pleney on rental bikes with 200 f&r, less knowledge of where the line goes, and lots of brake dragging. I've been running 220r 200f on the park and ebike for a while now and have not experienced horrible brake fade on local steeps (XT's and now Mavens). Local steep with 1,500ft drop with 3 flat off the brakes sections in between the steeps. I've been able to get some fade on the ebike with the...

Cars and motos have engine braking and can take some of the load off the rear brake, particularly when coasting downhill, something downhill bikes do a lot of. Yes weight transfer gives you more grip. In turn, you don’t have to brake as much to achieve the same reduction in speed as you would from the rear brake. Assuming you’re trying to brake somewhat evenly, your rear brake will naturally accumulate more heat over the duration of a run.

Finally. Bigger front rotors have never made any sense to me. The natural weight transfer induced by braking will make your front brake naturally more powerful, why would you amplify that effect with a bigger front rotor?

After others saying their Schwalbes lasted a long time I thought perhaps I got a bad batch so purchased another Romy trail 2.4 diagonal casing mid compound to try in the rear. Unfortunately it's the same issue with super fast wear. Pictured is the tire after one ride of 25 miles in Western WA with multiple side knobs already undercutting/tearing. I love the performance of the tire but this is the fastest wearing rear I think I've ever used. Back to continentals...

Did somebody already notice Martin Maes' floating brake arm on his Rallon? Don't remember seeing that mentioned, but it caught my eye in the Lawlor G-out video that Spomer just posted. Seen at one minute 15 seconds in. If Martin's on flat pedals, I wonder if that has anything to do with his thinking around anti-rise. The Rallon DH is around 60-65% AR, which is really really low, so if anything this brake arm would likely be designed to give it more anti-rise to make it squat on the brakes. I don't know if high or low AR is better...

Given the talent, the talent in opposition to Hattie, and the hard yards she's done, it's pretty bloody well earned!

Correct analysis, likely the best looking mountain bike of all time. OG Evil Wreckoning 2nd.

Or maybe people are reacting to your lack of respect for their time. You’ve added a signature to every one of your posts advertising your AI coded product in a forum where almost no one uses a signature so it’s basically spam. When you asked a technical question and were given resources that answered your question in great detail written by an industry subject matter expert you used AI to read it for you and it gave you a wrong answer which others had to correct. People are putting time into knowledge sharing and you’re here just slop-posting which is...

Yeah I don't think that's an accurate or helpful summary of the key takeaways of that thread.

Yeah, AI shits the bed once again.

I am going to be completely transparent here in that I work for FSA, but I will say I worked really hard on making the 31.8 40mm Gradient alloy bar one of the most compliant on the market. and here is the proof: (chart from PB article)

You can change the effective piston stroke, the initial volume it takes up in the fork, and the internal volume of the unit itself (to alter the ramp characteristics). It is not limited to a specific travel like the other options are if you want to change air springs. And it comes with a top cap socket tool. A true puzzlers delight! 😊 I'm hoping they'll make one for Intend forks at some point. The Linearizer option Intend makes is quite limited in comparison.

$40 per month is a ripoff, idk what you're on about. The season lasts from May-October (6 months), which is $240. Each elite race is about 3 hours. 10 races per season is 30 hours of racing. That is $8 per hour of livestream, more than minimum wage in 20 US states. It costs WBD almost nothing to distribute the stream to each additional viewer, yet they are charging more than they would be willing to pay somebody for manual labor for that same time period. I know biking is a fairly affluent sport but it sickens me to see...

I got my first ride on these today. I'll get more in the coming week I'm sure. I paired them with a grip change to Wolf Tooth's lockon grips. For a little background, I have pretty significant neuropathy problems in both of my arms due to long running Cubital Tunnel syndrome. I've had surgery but the pain still exists when I ride and sometimes it still lingers after. My problems are somewhat the opposite of Joe's, his seem to stem from being highly athletic and having forearm pump, mine stem from sitting behind a computer since I was 8 years...

Thanks for sharing this. I'm super curious about the bar ends, and especially what grips people are running. I don't want to start it because I don't have anything to contribute, but I'd love to follow a thread devoted to these things where we aggregate people's experiences installing and riding them. Bet of lot other people would as well.

Shockcraft Bomber CR kit teaser. Converts all shims to 8mm ID with a new piston bolt for the base valve as well.