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Trunnion mount frames often don't have the space for it.

The text with the image. "Proto V48 getting some trail time under our engineer Dan, who might not actually be an engineer because he never starts sentences with "As an engineer....". Standard eyelet and trunnion mount on the same reservoir bridge for testing. This is one part that will change significantly for production, to remove the redundant mounts, save weight, improve clearance and make it more aesthetically pleasing. We haven't gone that route yet because the machining setup required is significantly more complicated and not something we want to have to revise while we're still testing function and locking down...

All the adjustments!

Surely that's a development shock sporting both a trunion and a standard eyelet mount from Vorsprung?

They are no longer a service center, the service business was sold to S4 suspension

Running straight 2.0 spokes doesn't give much advantage as the inner diameter inside the thread is less than 2 mm and is thus the weakest point. I always run 1.8 butted spokes for this reason (2.0 at the thread and head). We've discussed this part in the wheelsets topic too. As for nipples, I run aluminium ones as DT welded rims come with them in the box and I've been running DT Swiss wheels (rims, spokes and hubs) for the past 8 years now with little incentive to change things up. And yeah, considering the experience I've had with 28...

If you're the kind of person who only tapes the rim well, then yeah, air would leak out of the seam, and you'd have to glue or *shudders* JB Weld it. It's been a while since I've had to deal with one of those philistines, thankfully. As for spoke wrenches, these have become a favorite of mine.

haha the rims say "pees"

Good wrench and Lots of lube before you turn anything. Also... With modern MTB wheels more and more closely resembling road wheels with lighter materials and lower spoke counts, aren't we moving toward a future where a wheel detensioning/tensioning jig is necessary to properly work on them? At The Spokesman in Santa Cruz where I worked like, twenty years ago or so, they had a set up where you could mount a wheel and detention it by leverage to turn a delicate nipple. It was from some high end road company that had some crazy twelve spoke wheels. I can't...

They can if they're not built or set up perfectly. It's entirely possible that there can be a bit too much of a gap in the joint and that can of course be made worse by a hard impact on the joint itself. Some brands will tell you that the rim tape and tire should prevent sealant/air from ever being able to leak out of the joint but it happens occasionally.

Back in 2015 I used superglue on the sleeved joint of a Giant rim to make it hold air. Dab the superglue on the joint, use a fine sandpaper to smooth it out, apply tubeless tape. I'd do the same on a new sleeved rim today as well if it was me.

@Simcik can you comment on why DT Swiss uses aluminum nipples on wheelsets (at least on OEM EX1700 that came on my 2022 Transition Patrol)? Love the value and quality of the product, it's taken me close to 2 years to start to beat up the rear rim enough to be a concern, but finding it hard to work with spoke tension with those nipples and shop is commenting the same thing. Unfortunately I have no wheel building experience so would have to pay them to replace to brass.

Can confirm, using an original DT Swiss nipple wrench (grabs 3 of 4 corners) and/or a Squorx driver gives much better results than using other types of nipple wrenches. The minus with the squorx interface is that it's not really applicable for a quick tune up as you need to remove the tyre and the tubeless tape...

The all black Gamux seems to have a lot skinnier tubes on the front triangle than the grey one. Looks like a very different version!

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