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i hope they do the launch package deal like they did with the Mavens too, that was a killer deal.

Spotted on Insta;

Great question. A couple rides in I think I opened up LSC a click or two to see if it helped (to compensate for a firrmer top of travel), then forgot about it until now. I also added a click of HSC (to compensate for a softer bottom 1/3 of travel) but then went back to my baseline setting. So yes, I think you can change settings a little, but I think the change in air spring is the biggest effect and doesn't really impact suspension feel at the top of the travel. I also pretty much never use HSC...

Finally posted my thoughts after a long-term test of the MRP Noken and a new guy to market, the Ratio Components Flux Cap: https://www.vitalmtb.com/features/great-minds-think-alike-ratio-compone… TLDR: I loved them both, and they do a great job addressing exactly what we've been discussing in this thread. On one of my first rides on the Flux Cap I bottomed out my 180mm Zeb for the first time in years.

Any extra pressure in brakes will go somewhere. Either inflate the bladder (and could cause problems once water is ingested and the volume increases, see option two) or the caliper pistons will push out and advance towards the rotor to take up the slack. The timing of the port will stay the same and the brakes will grab at the same time. Maybe the bite point will be quicker because the pads are advanced more, but you don't need to overfill the system to achieve that, just advance the pistons. Or get contact point adjust brakes...

jackson's winning v10 from hardline has an STFU down low near the chainring (instead of on top of the stay like we normally see). why would you run this instead of just using a lower chainguide wheel? wouldn't they kind of do the same thing? maybe not identically based on placement of STFU, but surely a lower guide wheel would interrupt/isolate some of the chain flop to the chainring? (scroll to pic 2)