All

God you all need to stop wasting your beers cleaning up brake fluid. IPAs supposed to make the brake jobs more enjoyable.

I tried to block Jason on my Vital profile page but he still has my cell number. Can you help?

Hey everyone, wouldn't it be cool if there was a thread for debating brake stuff? There is! https://www.vitalmtb.com/forums/hub/nerding-out-brakes-shall-we-not-ano…

565g oof.

I have heard through the crab vine that mech trans & Motive brakes will be released at the end of the month. New Rockshox wireless dropper will one up Wolf Tooth's 242mm drop length and with no hydraulics at all, just air Just speculation though, crabs are quite difficult to understand

Spotted on Insta;

My understanding is that chainrings are chainrings, whether they're 10, 11, or 12-speed, and even if the manufacturer doesn't recommend running an 11-speed chainring with a 12-speed chain, it's fine. Spacing only becomes a problem when you're talking about the cassette, because there is different spacing between the cogs on an 11-speed vs. 12-speed cassette. And yet I've still heard of people happily using a 12-speed chain on an 11-speed drivetrain, so who even knows.

You can typically go down 12 to 11, 11 to 10 but you can’t go up 9 to 10, 10 to 11, etc…

Was hoping someone else would chime in. Here's my guess. If you're reducing cable tension to compensate for the flex in your chain (to get it shift to the smaller cog), then the top derailleur pulley rests further from the centerline of each cog. Of course the difference in position is very small, or the chain will start clicking on the teeth of the next smallest cog. I suppose having the chain less lined up coming from the derailleur to the cassette could increase the wear on the cassette teeth. As to whether that translates into any meaningful real world...

Can we stop with the pipe dreaming, people would be more likely to glue their head to the table than properly use industrial adhesives in a frame jig. Most people struggle with IKEA,

Adjustable noise levels?!?

what about applying it drunk the night before a ride, spilling half the lube on the floor then wiping the excess off the chain with a rag which is my current go to method?

I think the chainring is wearing quicker for two reasons. Firstly it's aluminium, whereas the chain and cassette are (mostly) steel, so it's a softer material. Secondly the chainring has only 30-34ish teeth and the wear is concentrated on them, the wear on the cassette is spread over multiple sprockets, likewise the chain will have over 100 rollers to spread the load. I'm a big fan of steel chainrings to offset this concentrated wear, plus a clean drivetrain and a wax lubricant seems to also help. Chains are definitely more durable than they once were and overall I see longer...

Atherton S.200 aluminum DH bike now for sale - https://www.athertonbikes.com/bike/s200-downhill.html - 3 builds £6,299, £5,650 and £4,165 (according to their website on this particular day) - 12 standard sizes and the combination of Atherton’s “perfect-fit" sizing - mixed wheel configuration - 200 mm travel front and rear. - DW4 suspension platform - single-piece CNC'd rear triangle S.200.1 build below

Paging Dr. Freud…

But can you stand on it?