The test methodology in that Enduro MTB test leaves a lot to be desired. They measured the tires' rolling resistance on a steel drum (bad for...
The test methodology in that Enduro MTB test leaves a lot to be desired. They measured the tires' rolling resistance on a steel drum (bad for measuring any tire) and with all tires inflated to the same pressures (which is bad for measuring radial vs. bias ply tires).
Measuring rolling resistance on a large steel drum is like picking tires based on how cool the patch on the sidewall looks. And this section in their article about tire pressure proves that the methodology is whack. They found the same results for all brands of DH tires, too (Conti, Schwalbe, Specialized):
"The biggest surprise in our test came from the MAXXIS ASSEGAI: despite identical dimensions and rubber compound, the DH casing version rolls better than the Doubledown. One possible explanation: the DH casing features a coarser 60 TPI fabric, whereas the Doubledown uses a finer 120 TPI weave. The coarser DH fabric might offer more deformation resistance, causing it to flex less under the set pressure of 1.5 bar – meaning less energy is lost to deformation. However, this “phenomenon” can’t be transferred one-to-one to real-world trail riding: in reality, a DH casing would typically be run at a lower pressure – one of its core advantages. That, in turn, would increase rolling resistance again."
The DH tires measured as lower rolling resistance than the lighter casing tires because on a steel drum the faster tire is the hardest tire. A DH tire with 1.5 bar is harder than a single ply or dual 120 tpi tire, so it's "faster." This is nonsense, for the exact reason listed in the paragraph above.
Are there any radial vs. bias ply tests that don't use a steel drum, or that vary tire pressure to reflect the manufacturer's own recommendations?
completely agreed, trails are not at all the same but even groomed flow isn't a steel drum. agreed on pressures also but since you're not riding a trail, where you would set pressure based on rider weight, preference / trail feel etc then I guess that leaves you with making them all the same.
also, some of the outliers feel weird, like the assegai 3CT consuming less watts than the dissector 3CT.
there also was a timed lap test with radials vs bias ply but my Google-foo must be weak today, I can't find it.
The test methodology in that Enduro MTB test leaves a lot to be desired. They measured the tires' rolling resistance on a steel drum (bad for...
The test methodology in that Enduro MTB test leaves a lot to be desired. They measured the tires' rolling resistance on a steel drum (bad for measuring any tire) and with all tires inflated to the same pressures (which is bad for measuring radial vs. bias ply tires).
Measuring rolling resistance on a large steel drum is like picking tires based on how cool the patch on the sidewall looks. And this section in their article about tire pressure proves that the methodology is whack. They found the same results for all brands of DH tires, too (Conti, Schwalbe, Specialized):
"The biggest surprise in our test came from the MAXXIS ASSEGAI: despite identical dimensions and rubber compound, the DH casing version rolls better than the Doubledown. One possible explanation: the DH casing features a coarser 60 TPI fabric, whereas the Doubledown uses a finer 120 TPI weave. The coarser DH fabric might offer more deformation resistance, causing it to flex less under the set pressure of 1.5 bar – meaning less energy is lost to deformation. However, this “phenomenon” can’t be transferred one-to-one to real-world trail riding: in reality, a DH casing would typically be run at a lower pressure – one of its core advantages. That, in turn, would increase rolling resistance again."
The DH tires measured as lower rolling resistance than the lighter casing tires because on a steel drum the faster tire is the hardest tire. A DH tire with 1.5 bar is harder than a single ply or dual 120 tpi tire, so it's "faster." This is nonsense, for the exact reason listed in the paragraph above.
Are there any radial vs. bias ply tests that don't use a steel drum, or that vary tire pressure to reflect the manufacturer's own recommendations?
I'm curious how much of it is actual increase in rolling resistance. On my local laps the radials can definitely feel slower, but when I check my actual downhill times there isn't much in it. And unless the climb is technical and/or wet I'm consistently faster on bias ply.
They give me plus tire vibes to some extent - what I'm feeling and what the clock says don't always line up.
I put my radial Trail TCs back on after having reverted to HR3 EXO+/ DHR2 DD for a few weeks. Jesus, the squirm/vagueness in the back...
I put my radial Trail TCs back on after having reverted to HR3 EXO+/ DHR2 DD for a few weeks. Jesus, the squirm/vagueness in the back is sketchy AF. I had forgotten just how weird the radial Trail is in the back. The rear just felt like it was wandering all over when climbing, and then randomly steps out in corners before catching (especially flat corners). Lots of grip, then zero and rapidly sliding, then tons of grip again. For some reason, it doesn't do that on the front for me. It's like the sensation of the dead zone a tentative rider gets with a DHF, but in the back... really strange. I was running 22.5 psi front, tried 25.5, 26.5, 26.0 rear (compared to my Maxxis pressures of 19.5/22.5). I think I've gotta run a normal tire in the rear. Time to see if anyone local wants to swap some Maxxis or Conti with me.
I think the Trail is fine for a front casing for weekend warriors, but it's just too soft in the rear unless you're really going slow or riding very soft dirt all the time. I didn't notice most of this sensation in the rear when I ran Gravity (other than the weird step-out in corners). I have a theory the step-out comes from running a higher pressure, so that when you unweight the rear a little, it snaps back to full round shape and lose grip until it gets weighted and deformed again. It's hard to explain the sensation - it's quite different from the usual DHR lateral drift where you can feel the tire dragging on the ground but not digging in. This feeling comes on all of the sudden, without much if any of the lateral slide feel. I've had several cases where it happens and all of the sudden the front is oversteered pointing back across the trail, then I have to correct back in the opposite direction.
I think the TC is just a little wiggly. I just swapped from the Romy Trail Pro Radial Soft 2.5 rear to a lightly-used TC Trail Pro Radial Soft 2.5 (because monsoon season is in full effect and every day the trails are some new configuration of loose-over-hard) and the difference was notable. It’s doing what I wanted — more traction in unpredictable terrain — but it definitely feels less precise. I’m ~225 with kit and I’m running 31 psi in back, which is as low as I can go without making it weird.
I’m trying to figure out what Specialized tire combo to run. I already own a lightly used Cannibal - I’m a big fan of that tire. I could run that Cannibal up front with a Butcher, Eliminator, or another Cannibal in back.
But, would it be crazy to run the Cannibal in back with a Butcher Radial up front? I know the Cannibal is considered more aggressive than the Butcher, but I figure the radial casing could up the grip, particularly on more natural trails.
I’m trying to figure out what Specialized tire combo to run. I already own a lightly used Cannibal - I’m a big fan of that tire...
I’m trying to figure out what Specialized tire combo to run. I already own a lightly used Cannibal - I’m a big fan of that tire. I could run that Cannibal up front with a Butcher, Eliminator, or another Cannibal in back.
But, would it be crazy to run the Cannibal in back with a Butcher Radial up front? I know the Cannibal is considered more aggressive than the Butcher, but I figure the radial casing could up the grip, particularly on more natural trails.
What makes the Cannibal more aggressive?
More knobs? Different casing?
TBH I'm not experienced with Spesh tyres, hence the questions.
I'd have thought less knobs means more aggressive...
I’m trying to figure out what Specialized tire combo to run. I already own a lightly used Cannibal - I’m a big fan of that tire...
I’m trying to figure out what Specialized tire combo to run. I already own a lightly used Cannibal - I’m a big fan of that tire. I could run that Cannibal up front with a Butcher, Eliminator, or another Cannibal in back.
But, would it be crazy to run the Cannibal in back with a Butcher Radial up front? I know the Cannibal is considered more aggressive than the Butcher, but I figure the radial casing could up the grip, particularly on more natural trails.
nah not crazy at all to try since you already own the cannibal.
if you need more climbing and braking traction than the eliminator IMHO you can do another butcher, cannibal, or another brand entirely.
nah not crazy at all to try since you already own the cannibal.if you need more climbing and braking traction than the eliminator IMHO you can...
nah not crazy at all to try since you already own the cannibal.
if you need more climbing and braking traction than the eliminator IMHO you can do another butcher, cannibal, or another brand entirely.
hmm, although T9 does wear super fast on the rear in my experience. I think the specialized bikes that come stock with double butcher have a T7 in the back.
I’m trying to figure out what Specialized tire combo to run. I already own a lightly used Cannibal - I’m a big fan of that tire...
I’m trying to figure out what Specialized tire combo to run. I already own a lightly used Cannibal - I’m a big fan of that tire. I could run that Cannibal up front with a Butcher, Eliminator, or another Cannibal in back.
But, would it be crazy to run the Cannibal in back with a Butcher Radial up front? I know the Cannibal is considered more aggressive than the Butcher, but I figure the radial casing could up the grip, particularly on more natural trails.
I've run Cannibal front and rear and cannibal front with eliminator rear (my fav). I wish they made the cannibal in grid trail casing, I'd never run a butcher again
Idk whats going on in this forum lately. Amaury: I'm using radials. Schwalbe: our riders are all using radials. Us: no one's using radials. My personal experience, riding them in...
Idk whats going on in this forum lately.
Amaury: I'm using radials.
Schwalbe: our riders are all using radials.
Us: no one's using radials.
My personal experience, riding them in every condition imaginable, including snow: the biggest improvement in mountain bike technology since we figured out 64 degree HTA could apply to non DH bikes.
How much do you weight and what pressure are you running?
How much do you weight and what pressure are you running?
I have found the Wolf Tooth Calculator for casing type "Radial" was a good starting place. I used the actual measured sidewall width, in my previous post was 2.3 at the casing, not 2.5" at knobs and stated. I haven't changed from what they have unless its wet and I reduce a PSI.
Asking someone else isn't perfect. Their bike could weight more than yours, they could be 27 vs 29, they could ride different types of soil and all of that factors into the recommended pressure and can be pretty drastic.
The test methodology in that Enduro MTB test leaves a lot to be desired. They measured the tires' rolling resistance on a steel drum (bad for...
The test methodology in that Enduro MTB test leaves a lot to be desired. They measured the tires' rolling resistance on a steel drum (bad for measuring any tire) and with all tires inflated to the same pressures (which is bad for measuring radial vs. bias ply tires).
Measuring rolling resistance on a large steel drum is like picking tires based on how cool the patch on the sidewall looks. And this section in their article about tire pressure proves that the methodology is whack. They found the same results for all brands of DH tires, too (Conti, Schwalbe, Specialized):
"The biggest surprise in our test came from the MAXXIS ASSEGAI: despite identical dimensions and rubber compound, the DH casing version rolls better than the Doubledown. One possible explanation: the DH casing features a coarser 60 TPI fabric, whereas the Doubledown uses a finer 120 TPI weave. The coarser DH fabric might offer more deformation resistance, causing it to flex less under the set pressure of 1.5 bar – meaning less energy is lost to deformation. However, this “phenomenon” can’t be transferred one-to-one to real-world trail riding: in reality, a DH casing would typically be run at a lower pressure – one of its core advantages. That, in turn, would increase rolling resistance again."
The DH tires measured as lower rolling resistance than the lighter casing tires because on a steel drum the faster tire is the hardest tire. A DH tire with 1.5 bar is harder than a single ply or dual 120 tpi tire, so it's "faster." This is nonsense, for the exact reason listed in the paragraph above.
Are there any radial vs. bias ply tests that don't use a steel drum, or that vary tire pressure to reflect the manufacturer's own recommendations?
How would you set it up to be representative? I know Vital did a rolling resistance test several years ago, but it was rolling down a...
How would you set it up to be representative? I know Vital did a rolling resistance test several years ago, but it was rolling down a straight section of asphalt and timing them. Not sure asphalt is better than a steel drum. The RojoDH guy posting on this forum does timed laps at a bike park comparing front tires, but that ends up including line choice, etc. and each time it's new tire vs. Assegai.
Schwalbe doesn't even provide any specific guidance on how much higher to run their radials other than a vague statement that riders often run slightly higher pressures than normal. If the argument is that you can run them higher pressure so that they'd have less rolling resistance, then you'd also trade off some of that added grip. We've seen lots of posts by users here stating that they increase pressures by anywhere from 5% - 30% from their normal pressures, clearly no hard and fast amount you could assume for testing.
I really liked the Vital rolling resistance test methods, as long as wind isn't a factor. It holds a lot of variables constant, and an asphalt road is actually more similar to a smooth section of trail than either are to a smooth metal drum.
The whole road bike tire universe exploded when Bicycle Quarterly started doing tests on real asphalt roads using standardized power efforts using crankarm power meters. It turned all of the conventional wisdom on it's head. Doing something like that with a flat lap or section of trail at a constant power effort on an MTB would be good, too, as long as you really are pedaling all the time, no coasting, and you're able to stare at your power meter the whole time to maintain a constant effort. I don't like the idea of using a hill climb because, while it makes it easier to hold a constant power, it also significantly reduces the bicycle velocity, which reduces rolling resistance and makes it harder to draw conclusions from the data.
I really liked the Vital rolling resistance test methods, as long as wind isn't a factor. It holds a lot of variables constant, and an asphalt...
I really liked the Vital rolling resistance test methods, as long as wind isn't a factor. It holds a lot of variables constant, and an asphalt road is actually more similar to a smooth section of trail than either are to a smooth metal drum.
The whole road bike tire universe exploded when Bicycle Quarterly started doing tests on real asphalt roads using standardized power efforts using crankarm power meters. It turned all of the conventional wisdom on it's head. Doing something like that with a flat lap or section of trail at a constant power effort on an MTB would be good, too, as long as you really are pedaling all the time, no coasting, and you're able to stare at your power meter the whole time to maintain a constant effort. I don't like the idea of using a hill climb because, while it makes it easier to hold a constant power, it also significantly reduces the bicycle velocity, which reduces rolling resistance and makes it harder to draw conclusions from the data.
I really liked the Vital rolling resistance test methods, as long as wind isn't a factor. It holds a lot of variables constant, and an asphalt...
I really liked the Vital rolling resistance test methods, as long as wind isn't a factor. It holds a lot of variables constant, and an asphalt road is actually more similar to a smooth section of trail than either are to a smooth metal drum.
The whole road bike tire universe exploded when Bicycle Quarterly started doing tests on real asphalt roads using standardized power efforts using crankarm power meters. It turned all of the conventional wisdom on it's head. Doing something like that with a flat lap or section of trail at a constant power effort on an MTB would be good, too, as long as you really are pedaling all the time, no coasting, and you're able to stare at your power meter the whole time to maintain a constant effort. I don't like the idea of using a hill climb because, while it makes it easier to hold a constant power, it also significantly reduces the bicycle velocity, which reduces rolling resistance and makes it harder to draw conclusions from the data.
Out of curiosity, are you sharing this podcast in a "Yes, the points you're making are valid, and I think you'll enjoy this podcast because it goes even deeper on those concepts" sort of way?
Or is it more of a "you have no f-ing clue what you're talking about, and when you listen to this podcast you're going to feel like a proper idiot" kind of thing?
Must have been an error posting early because link is broken now.
I was wondering.
What I can remember:
New DHX is a dry conditions bikepark tire. It will initially be released in August in their new downhill casing only. Other casings like EXO plus will pop up in October and December respectively. The author thought it worked great in the dry but not so well in wet or slick conditions (makes sense).
I was wondering.What I can remember:New DHX is a dry conditions bikepark tire. It will initially be released in August in their new downhill casing only...
I was wondering.
What I can remember:
New DHX is a dry conditions bikepark tire. It will initially be released in August in their new downhill casing only. Other casings like EXO plus will pop up in October and December respectively. The author thought it worked great in the dry but not so well in wet or slick conditions (makes sense).
Is it meant to replace the Assegai or is it meant for drier conditions?
I'm in central BC, so dry and dusty most of the time. Assegai works great until the dust gets deep, then the High Roller is my go-to.
Maxxis Minion DHX — new gravity/DH tread aimed at dry, hardpack conditions: Bigger, blockier lugs than before for support and braking power at speed Tighter-spaced center tread for faster rolling on hardpack; bigger shoulder lugs for off-camber grip New L-shaped center-to-shoulder transition Positioned as a fast, dry/hardpack-focused tire — sits alongside the Assegai and DHR II, not replacing them New DH casing — reworked construction across the DH lineup: More rigid butyl bead insert (pinch-flat resistance) Wider casing overlap under the tread New sidewall cut-resistance material Claimed 20%+ gains in cornering support, sidewall/tread puncture resistance, and pinch-flat protection — at similar weight to the old DH casing Riding impressions (tester rode it at Leogang and Czech/Polish bikeparks): fast-rolling and stable in dry/hardpack corners and berms, reliable braking; ran pressures as low as 22psi with the new casing without losing control even in slightly wet conditions — but it struggled on a genuinely slick, rooty wet trail, confirming it's a dry-conditions tire. No flats after ~2 months of riding despite visible cuts/scrapes. Availability: August: DHX in New DH + 3C MaxxGrip, 27.5" and 29", 2.5" widths October: more DHX options (New DH or EXO+ casing, MaxxTerra or 29er-only EXO+/MaxxGrip combos) End of year: Double Down casing versions New DH casing also rolling out on Assegai (29x2.5 only), DHR II (27.5/29, 2.4 & 2.5), and HighRoller (2.4) — notably not on the DHF Pricing expected similar to current tires
Installed a pair of hutchinson wyrms rlab in 29×2,4. Weighed in both at 850g.
Install was easy, the sidewall feel much more substantial than exo+ and whatever kenda is using. Measures 66mm at the knobs and 62mm at the sidewall. Very round profile, bot bad imho.
Recommended Pressure in the sidewall 1,5bar/22psi. Legit!
Re: HutchinsonsInstalled a pair of hutchinson wyrms rlab in 29×2,4. Weighed in both at 850g.Install was easy, the sidewall feel much more substantial than exo+ and...
Re: Hutchinsons
Installed a pair of hutchinson wyrms rlab in 29×2,4. Weighed in both at 850g.
Install was easy, the sidewall feel much more substantial than exo+ and whatever kenda is using. Measures 66mm at the knobs and 62mm at the sidewall. Very round profile, bot bad imho.
Recommended Pressure in the sidewall 1,5bar/22psi. Legit!
I tried a Wyrm as a rear tyre about two years ago. I tore it off after the first ride and sold it. In retrospect I think i should have given it a couple of rides to wear in a bit. It's just my own theory but i've learned that Specializeds tyres tend to need a couple of rides before they perform their best.
I'll check it out! Thanks for the link.Out of curiosity, are you sharing this podcast in a "Yes, the points you're making are valid, and I...
I'll check it out! Thanks for the link.
Out of curiosity, are you sharing this podcast in a "Yes, the points you're making are valid, and I think you'll enjoy this podcast because it goes even deeper on those concepts" sort of way?
Or is it more of a "you have no f-ing clue what you're talking about, and when you listen to this podcast you're going to feel like a proper idiot" kind of thing?
No, it’s useful and practically explores how best to do what you’re thinking about. The big thing which most folks miss is that you need to do the statistical analysis to be able to disambiguate between rolling resistance and aerodynamic drag, and being able to do the analysis requires predictable changes in both speed and power across a range of values. That’s an absolute ballache, methodologically speaking, but John Karrasch is really experienced at it. The good news is that the software for doing the analysis is free and the sensors required to do this kind of testing are cheap (wheel speed sensor, power meter). The failure mode is you get back from riding your test track like a weirdo and the software can’t derive drag or rolling resistance numbers.
completely agreed, trails are not at all the same but even groomed flow isn't a steel drum. agreed on pressures also but since you're not riding a trail, where you would set pressure based on rider weight, preference / trail feel etc then I guess that leaves you with making them all the same.
also, some of the outliers feel weird, like the assegai 3CT consuming less watts than the dissector 3CT.
there also was a timed lap test with radials vs bias ply but my Google-foo must be weak today, I can't find it.
I'm curious how much of it is actual increase in rolling resistance. On my local laps the radials can definitely feel slower, but when I check my actual downhill times there isn't much in it. And unless the climb is technical and/or wet I'm consistently faster on bias ply.
They give me plus tire vibes to some extent - what I'm feeling and what the clock says don't always line up.
IF DH front tires are all you're concerned with, this guy has done some interesting work:
https://www.youtube.com/@RoJoDH
I think the TC is just a little wiggly. I just swapped from the Romy Trail Pro Radial Soft 2.5 rear to a lightly-used TC Trail Pro Radial Soft 2.5 (because monsoon season is in full effect and every day the trails are some new configuration of loose-over-hard) and the difference was notable. It’s doing what I wanted — more traction in unpredictable terrain — but it definitely feels less precise. I’m ~225 with kit and I’m running 31 psi in back, which is as low as I can go without making it weird.
I’m trying to figure out what Specialized tire combo to run. I already own a lightly used Cannibal - I’m a big fan of that tire. I could run that Cannibal up front with a Butcher, Eliminator, or another Cannibal in back.
But, would it be crazy to run the Cannibal in back with a Butcher Radial up front? I know the Cannibal is considered more aggressive than the Butcher, but I figure the radial casing could up the grip, particularly on more natural trails.
What makes the Cannibal more aggressive?
More knobs? Different casing?
TBH I'm not experienced with Spesh tyres, hence the questions.
I'd have thought less knobs means more aggressive...
nah not crazy at all to try since you already own the cannibal.
if you need more climbing and braking traction than the eliminator IMHO you can do another butcher, cannibal, or another brand entirely.
hmm, although T9 does wear super fast on the rear in my experience. I think the specialized bikes that come stock with double butcher have a T7 in the back.
I've run Cannibal front and rear and cannibal front with eliminator rear (my fav). I wish they made the cannibal in grid trail casing, I'd never run a butcher again
Cannibal rear with a hillbilly up front
How much do you weight and what pressure are you running?
I have found the Wolf Tooth Calculator for casing type "Radial" was a good starting place. I used the actual measured sidewall width, in my previous post was 2.3 at the casing, not 2.5" at knobs and stated. I haven't changed from what they have unless its wet and I reduce a PSI.
Asking someone else isn't perfect. Their bike could weight more than yours, they could be 27 vs 29, they could ride different types of soil and all of that factors into the recommended pressure and can be pretty drastic.
I really liked the Vital rolling resistance test methods, as long as wind isn't a factor. It holds a lot of variables constant, and an asphalt road is actually more similar to a smooth section of trail than either are to a smooth metal drum.
The whole road bike tire universe exploded when Bicycle Quarterly started doing tests on real asphalt roads using standardized power efforts using crankarm power meters. It turned all of the conventional wisdom on it's head. Doing something like that with a flat lap or section of trail at a constant power effort on an MTB would be good, too, as long as you really are pedaling all the time, no coasting, and you're able to stare at your power meter the whole time to maintain a constant effort. I don't like the idea of using a hill climb because, while it makes it easier to hold a constant power, it also significantly reduces the bicycle velocity, which reduces rolling resistance and makes it harder to draw conclusions from the data.
This podcast is worth a listen: https://silca.cc/blogs/marginalgains/rolling-resistance-testing-with-john-karrasch
https://bikerumor.com/maxxis-debuts-a-new-minion-dhx-for-dry-plus-all-new-dh-casing-for-all-first-riding-review/
200 pounds geared up, between 25-30 psi depending
I'll check it out! Thanks for the link.
Out of curiosity, are you sharing this podcast in a "Yes, the points you're making are valid, and I think you'll enjoy this podcast because it goes even deeper on those concepts" sort of way?
Or is it more of a "you have no f-ing clue what you're talking about, and when you listen to this podcast you're going to feel like a proper idiot" kind of thing?
I also think that radial tires are the biggest innovation in MTB technology since modern geo.
Must have been an error posting early because link is broken now.
I was wondering.
What I can remember:
New DHX is a dry conditions bikepark tire. It will initially be released in August in their new downhill casing only. Other casings like EXO plus will pop up in October and December respectively. The author thought it worked great in the dry but not so well in wet or slick conditions (makes sense).
Is it meant to replace the Assegai or is it meant for drier conditions?
I'm in central BC, so dry and dusty most of the time. Assegai works great until the dust gets deep, then the High Roller is my go-to.
The DHX looks like the perfect tire for my use.
I did some digging and found a nice summary
Maxxis Minion DHX — new gravity/DH tread aimed at dry, hardpack conditions:
Bigger, blockier lugs than before for support and braking power at speed
Tighter-spaced center tread for faster rolling on hardpack; bigger shoulder lugs for off-camber grip
New L-shaped center-to-shoulder transition
Positioned as a fast, dry/hardpack-focused tire — sits alongside the Assegai and DHR II, not replacing them
New DH casing — reworked construction across the DH lineup:
More rigid butyl bead insert (pinch-flat resistance)
Wider casing overlap under the tread
New sidewall cut-resistance material
Claimed 20%+ gains in cornering support, sidewall/tread puncture resistance, and pinch-flat protection — at similar weight to the old DH casing
Riding impressions (tester rode it at Leogang and Czech/Polish bikeparks): fast-rolling and stable in dry/hardpack corners and berms, reliable braking; ran pressures as low as 22psi with the new casing without losing control even in slightly wet conditions — but it struggled on a genuinely slick, rooty wet trail, confirming it's a dry-conditions tire. No flats after ~2 months of riding despite visible cuts/scrapes.
Availability:
August: DHX in New DH + 3C MaxxGrip, 27.5" and 29", 2.5" widths
October: more DHX options (New DH or EXO+ casing, MaxxTerra or 29er-only EXO+/MaxxGrip combos)
End of year: Double Down casing versions
New DH casing also rolling out on Assegai (29x2.5 only), DHR II (27.5/29, 2.4 & 2.5), and HighRoller (2.4) — notably not on the DHF
Pricing expected similar to current tires
Re: Hutchinsons
Installed a pair of hutchinson wyrms rlab in 29×2,4. Weighed in both at 850g.
Install was easy, the sidewall feel much more substantial than exo+ and whatever kenda is using. Measures 66mm at the knobs and 62mm at the sidewall. Very round profile, bot bad imho.
Recommended Pressure in the sidewall 1,5bar/22psi. Legit!
I tried a Wyrm as a rear tyre about two years ago. I tore it off after the first ride and sold it. In retrospect I think i should have given it a couple of rides to wear in a bit. It's just my own theory but i've learned that Specializeds tyres tend to need a couple of rides before they perform their best.
No, it’s useful and practically explores how best to do what you’re thinking about. The big thing which most folks miss is that you need to do the statistical analysis to be able to disambiguate between rolling resistance and aerodynamic drag, and being able to do the analysis requires predictable changes in both speed and power across a range of values. That’s an absolute ballache, methodologically speaking, but John Karrasch is really experienced at it. The good news is that the software for doing the analysis is free and the sensors required to do this kind of testing are cheap (wheel speed sensor, power meter). The failure mode is you get back from riding your test track like a weirdo and the software can’t derive drag or rolling resistance numbers.
You can also read more about the Chung method here, from an aero/road perspective: https://silca.cc/blogs/silca/chunging-with-robert-chung
Also Ben Delaney just did a whole video about Chung testing with Karrasch: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mTEtR_1jUHM
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