Ridden enough 12 speed stuff that I’ve “downgraded” to XT 11 speed on one bike and X01/GX 11 speed on the other bike. These days my...
Ridden enough 12 speed stuff that I’ve “downgraded” to XT 11 speed on one bike and X01/GX 11 speed on the other bike. These days my ego can deal with going 2 teeth smaller on the chain ring. If I still had the legs for it I would scrape together 10 speed XTR again….
If your terrain supports it it's a valid choice. There's a lot of terrain out there where the chainrings aren't small enough and 2 teeth less...
If your terrain supports it it's a valid choice. There's a lot of terrain out there where the chainrings aren't small enough and 2 teeth less is not enough to cover the missing 50+T dinner plate though... It's kind of like not having a granny gear on a 3x system and making the middle ring just a few teeth smaller to compensate.
32/52 is .6154 and 28/46 is .6087 so if it’s a climbing thing and not a spinning out at top speed thing, 11 versus 12 speed...
32/52 is .6154 and 28/46 is .6087 so if it’s a climbing thing and not a spinning out at top speed thing, 11 versus 12 speed doesn’t really matter (talking Shimano and SRAM here). Both of those are far easier to pedal than the old school 3x10 granny gear 24/36 combo that is .6667 which is also 28/42 11 speed.
Personally I’m happy to go back to 11 and have shorter cage that doesn’t bounce around as much and isn’t as susceptible to sucking up every other stick on the trail.
Except Sram's 11 SPD is 42t max and comparing granny gears you have to take wheel roll out into account as well as a larger wheel is effectively a harder gear. A 30t on a 29er is about the same as a 32t on a 27,5 and a 34t on a 26 inch bike.
I also said if your terrain supports it, there are places where it makes more sense to have a 28t in the front with a 52t in the back on a 29er than a 30t. Double so if you're thinking about going 165 mm or shorter on the cranks. And like I've always said in cases like these, you're welcome to come over and try out these terrains.
Except Sram's 11 SPD is 42t max and comparing granny gears you have to take wheel roll out into account as well as a larger wheel...
Except Sram's 11 SPD is 42t max and comparing granny gears you have to take wheel roll out into account as well as a larger wheel is effectively a harder gear. A 30t on a 29er is about the same as a 32t on a 27,5 and a 34t on a 26 inch bike.
I also said if your terrain supports it, there are places where it makes more sense to have a 28t in the front with a 52t in the back on a 29er than a 30t. Double so if you're thinking about going 165 mm or shorter on the cranks. And like I've always said in cases like these, you're welcome to come over and try out these terrains.
Maybe if I can get into an internet argument with you about gearing I could get a very nice guided ride out of it
No issues with c90 that aren't typical to transmission (cassette warranty issues). I have several t-type drivetrains in the fleet of bikes between my wife and...
No issues with c90 that aren't typical to transmission (cassette warranty issues). I have several t-type drivetrains in the fleet of bikes between my wife and I... they are all just as reliable as xo mechanical eagle was. C90 can use a better shifter for sure to feel premium... but shift quality and reliability are inline with what I have come to expect from sram and other than keeping an existing bike on eagle and replacing wear items... I have no reason to not use transmission going forward. I do not miss limit screws or b-tension bolts that self adjust with bikes that have more extreme rearward axle paths and once you get used to being able to shift under load, going back to eagle feels like a limiting factor in certain situations.
For certain applications, c90 is now preferred for me. I prefer it on my enduro/park bike because I can dump gears faster and I can still replace a cage when I abuse it and break stuff. The madrone is a nice looking piece but not without a few quirks along the way and it's 100 dollars more than a c90 derailleur. Not saying that it's not rad and I do love the repairability... but c90 is really good and for me, it's been rock solid reliable.
So if you haven't had any problems with the lack of limit screws or b-tension adjustment, why do you think you're not having problems configuring Eagle...
So if you haven't had any problems with the lack of limit screws or b-tension adjustment, why do you think you're not having problems configuring Eagle 90 and other people are?
Possible theory #1: All of the alignment problems people are describing are actually cassette tolerance problems that would be fixed by doing a warranty replacement of the cassette?
Possible theory #2: People aren't setting up the derailleur correctly during the very unusual Transmission red alignment cog/"B-tension" step.
I'm not sure if it's a cassette issue. I had a full XX AXS drivetrain on a Ripmo V3 that shifted perfectly. Later I swapped only...
I'm not sure if it's a cassette issue. I had a full XX AXS drivetrain on a Ripmo V3 that shifted perfectly. Later I swapped only the shifter and derailleur to 90 and had shifting issues since. I'm using the ecact same XX cassette. It's like I cannot get the cable tension setup correctly. For example, it's either too tight in some areas of the cassette and if I then decrease the tension it's too loose in the other area of the cassette. It behaves like it has a bent hanger, however with T-Type there is no hanger. With this not point to tolerance issues with the 90 derailleur?
You are mixing two different ecosystems. It's bound to have problems. The cassette sits in different places between eagle and transmission.
Except Sram's 11 SPD is 42t max and comparing granny gears you have to take wheel roll out into account as well as a larger wheel...
Except Sram's 11 SPD is 42t max and comparing granny gears you have to take wheel roll out into account as well as a larger wheel is effectively a harder gear. A 30t on a 29er is about the same as a 32t on a 27,5 and a 34t on a 26 inch bike.
I also said if your terrain supports it, there are places where it makes more sense to have a 28t in the front with a 52t in the back on a 29er than a 30t. Double so if you're thinking about going 165 mm or shorter on the cranks. And like I've always said in cases like these, you're welcome to come over and try out these terrains.
I used to tell people back in the 11 speed days to choose what was important to them and choose the front ring appropriately.. If you were a weaker climber and didn't mind losing a some top end, go 28 or 30...
The new fluid looks like a great bike, just like the last one, but man 35#’s for a 130mm bike is chonky. I know from personally owning aluminum norcos they are not lightweights, but that new lyrik is pretty heavy too. Do we really need a lyrik on a 140mm forked bike? Pike chassis seems totally suitable for this situation.
The new fluid looks like a great bike, just like the last one, but man 35#’s for a 130mm bike is chonky. I know from personally...
The new fluid looks like a great bike, just like the last one, but man 35#’s for a 130mm bike is chonky. I know from personally owning aluminum norcos they are not lightweights, but that new lyrik is pretty heavy too. Do we really need a lyrik on a 140mm forked bike? Pike chassis seems totally suitable for this situation.
Looking at the recent updates to the Super Deluxe, Vivid, Zeb and Lyrik, as well as last year's refresh of the Domain and Psylo, I wouldn’t be surprised if the Pike is nearing the end of its lifecycle (while the DJ will likely remain in the lineup). The question is whether the standard Pike will survive.
The SID already covers travel up to 120 mm, and the Lyrik starts at 140 mm, so there’s a clear gap in the middle. Maybe RockShox will replace the current Pike with a new model designed specifically to fill that 120–140 mm segment.
The new fluid looks like a great bike, just like the last one, but man 35#’s for a 130mm bike is chonky. I know from personally...
The new fluid looks like a great bike, just like the last one, but man 35#’s for a 130mm bike is chonky. I know from personally owning aluminum norcos they are not lightweights, but that new lyrik is pretty heavy too. Do we really need a lyrik on a 140mm forked bike? Pike chassis seems totally suitable for this situation.
Looking at the recent updates to the Super Deluxe, Vivid, Zeb and Lyrik, as well as last year's refresh of the Domain and Psylo, I wouldn’t...
Looking at the recent updates to the Super Deluxe, Vivid, Zeb and Lyrik, as well as last year's refresh of the Domain and Psylo, I wouldn’t be surprised if the Pike is nearing the end of its lifecycle (while the DJ will likely remain in the lineup). The question is whether the standard Pike will survive.
The SID already covers travel up to 120 mm, and the Lyrik starts at 140 mm, so there’s a clear gap in the middle. Maybe RockShox will replace the current Pike with a new model designed specifically to fill that 120–140 mm segment.
isnt that exactly the travel range the pike currently covers?
So if you haven't had any problems with the lack of limit screws or b-tension adjustment, why do you think you're not having problems configuring Eagle...
So if you haven't had any problems with the lack of limit screws or b-tension adjustment, why do you think you're not having problems configuring Eagle 90 and other people are?
Possible theory #1: All of the alignment problems people are describing are actually cassette tolerance problems that would be fixed by doing a warranty replacement of the cassette?
Possible theory #2: People aren't setting up the derailleur correctly during the very unusual Transmission red alignment cog/"B-tension" step.
I'm not sure if it's a cassette issue. I had a full XX AXS drivetrain on a Ripmo V3 that shifted perfectly. Later I swapped only...
I'm not sure if it's a cassette issue. I had a full XX AXS drivetrain on a Ripmo V3 that shifted perfectly. Later I swapped only the shifter and derailleur to 90 and had shifting issues since. I'm using the ecact same XX cassette. It's like I cannot get the cable tension setup correctly. For example, it's either too tight in some areas of the cassette and if I then decrease the tension it's too loose in the other area of the cassette. It behaves like it has a bent hanger, however with T-Type there is no hanger. With this not point to tolerance issues with the 90 derailleur?
The new fluid looks like a great bike, just like the last one, but man 35#’s for a 130mm bike is chonky. I know from personally...
The new fluid looks like a great bike, just like the last one, but man 35#’s for a 130mm bike is chonky. I know from personally owning aluminum norcos they are not lightweights, but that new lyrik is pretty heavy too. Do we really need a lyrik on a 140mm forked bike? Pike chassis seems totally suitable for this situation.
Looking at the recent updates to the Super Deluxe, Vivid, Zeb and Lyrik, as well as last year's refresh of the Domain and Psylo, I wouldn’t...
Looking at the recent updates to the Super Deluxe, Vivid, Zeb and Lyrik, as well as last year's refresh of the Domain and Psylo, I wouldn’t be surprised if the Pike is nearing the end of its lifecycle (while the DJ will likely remain in the lineup). The question is whether the standard Pike will survive.
The SID already covers travel up to 120 mm, and the Lyrik starts at 140 mm, so there’s a clear gap in the middle. Maybe RockShox will replace the current Pike with a new model designed specifically to fill that 120–140 mm segment.
Yeah man idk. At the cost of sounding like an old man yelling at clouds, I remember riding a process with a 160mm like for the first time thinking oh my god this is awesome. I still firmly believe a 140mm lyrik is just overkill.
Yeah man idk. At the cost of sounding like an old man yelling at clouds, I remember riding a process with a 160mm like for the...
Yeah man idk. At the cost of sounding like an old man yelling at clouds, I remember riding a process with a 160mm like for the first time thinking oh my god this is awesome. I still firmly believe a 140mm lyrik is just overkill.
It is, but if sales are down you aren’t going to make an e-bike sturdy product along side a regular one. Just a wild uneducated guess on my part…
Doubly so if the weight difference is 10% or less.
If i was placing bets, I'd wager the 35mm Sid chassis gets a bump to 130 to cover that small gap in the lineup...
+1, and this is an unsubstantiated rumor, but I remember seeing mention of a SID XL fork elsewhere in the past ~1 month or so. Could be similar in strategy to RS offering the Rudy and Rudy XL (with more travel).
So who's going to post the two Trek 32" bikes from the B2B site?
Don't be shitty, man. Breach your shop's terms with trek and then Sspomer's just going to have to remove it anyway. You could have just said "I was in my Trek dealer and overheard they were launching two 32 inch bikes soon". THAT's a proper rumour!
I'd argue the Pike is still relevant in order for RS to compete with the 36 SL.
Agree. If you have spent any real time on the SID you'll know it's no Pike when it comes to damping quality. The chassis is fine but the damper gets a bit overwhelmed when in proper chunk. I have a SID equipped bike and it's awesome in the right terrain but it'll let you know when it's not happy. There is still a place for the Pike, especially with the weight gain of the latest Lyric.
Agree. If you have spent any real time on the SID you'll know it's no Pike when it comes to damping quality. The chassis is fine...
Agree. If you have spent any real time on the SID you'll know it's no Pike when it comes to damping quality. The chassis is fine but the damper gets a bit overwhelmed when in proper chunk. I have a SID equipped bike and it's awesome in the right terrain but it'll let you know when it's not happy. There is still a place for the Pike, especially with the weight gain of the latest Lyric.
Agree. If you have spent any real time on the SID you'll know it's no Pike when it comes to damping quality. The chassis is fine...
Agree. If you have spent any real time on the SID you'll know it's no Pike when it comes to damping quality. The chassis is fine but the damper gets a bit overwhelmed when in proper chunk. I have a SID equipped bike and it's awesome in the right terrain but it'll let you know when it's not happy. There is still a place for the Pike, especially with the weight gain of the latest Lyric.
Yuuuuuup. Unless they do damper options like Fox does with SL/X/X2. I am running a SID for the first time on an xc bike this year. It's fantastic for what it's supposed to be, but it leaves a lot to be desired when things get jankier than it's intended use.
The new fluid looks like a great bike, just like the last one, but man 35#’s for a 130mm bike is chonky. I know from personally...
The new fluid looks like a great bike, just like the last one, but man 35#’s for a 130mm bike is chonky. I know from personally owning aluminum norcos they are not lightweights, but that new lyrik is pretty heavy too. Do we really need a lyrik on a 140mm forked bike? Pike chassis seems totally suitable for this situation.
I’m a heavily bias Norco fan over here. They just don’t build light bikes. When they did, they broke.
Saying that… I definitely prefer a chonky bike as I have a chonky presence. I haven’t ridden a newer Pike, but a chassis from a few years ago felt like a wet noodle under me. The smallest chassis I feel comfortable on is a Lyric. I think they had clydesdales like me in mind for that Fluid.
Agree. If you have spent any real time on the SID you'll know it's no Pike when it comes to damping quality. The chassis is fine...
Agree. If you have spent any real time on the SID you'll know it's no Pike when it comes to damping quality. The chassis is fine but the damper gets a bit overwhelmed when in proper chunk. I have a SID equipped bike and it's awesome in the right terrain but it'll let you know when it's not happy. There is still a place for the Pike, especially with the weight gain of the latest Lyric.
Agreed. I have the new Lyrik on each of my bikes. They weigh as much as the old Zeb, and ride closer to it. The new Zeb is even beefier yet. With everything moving up half a bracket in terms of stoutness, there's definitely space between the Lyrik and SID for a light, mid-stiffness/travel fork.
I’m a heavily bias Norco fan over here. They just don’t build light bikes. When they did, they broke. Saying that… I definitely prefer a chonky bike...
I’m a heavily bias Norco fan over here. They just don’t build light bikes. When they did, they broke.
Saying that… I definitely prefer a chonky bike as I have a chonky presence. I haven’t ridden a newer Pike, but a chassis from a few years ago felt like a wet noodle under me. The smallest chassis I feel comfortable on is a Lyric. I think they had clydesdales like me in mind for that Fluid.
I'm in the same boat... I have a Trance that I want to rebuild at some point and replacing the 34 with a 130mm 36SL is on the list of things I want to upgrade being a not so light rider...
I've had my belt come of a few times in 2 years of general riding without "extreme" mud conditions. All were due to sticks kicking up...
I've had my belt come of a few times in 2 years of general riding without "extreme" mud conditions. All were due to sticks kicking up and lodging between the belt and rear cog. I can see how a bunch of thick mud can buildup from coasting downhill and derail it.
I honestly think that if the Gates sponsorships weren't happening the gearbox bikes would be chain drive, or switch over to chain drive when the going gets muddy. The belt is very quiet and smooth in non-extreme conditions but no denying the chain is a better option for ultra slop.
Interesting! Never had it come off in 2 years on my G3, riding in all the weather we get. Our mud isn't too clay heavy which might help, but it has been flawless so far wet or dry.
If your terrain supports it it's a valid choice. There's a lot of terrain out there where the chainrings aren't small enough and 2 teeth less...
If your terrain supports it it's a valid choice. There's a lot of terrain out there where the chainrings aren't small enough and 2 teeth less is not enough to cover the missing 50+T dinner plate though... It's kind of like not having a granny gear on a 3x system and making the middle ring just a few teeth smaller to compensate.
32/52 is .6154 and 28/46 is .6087 so if it’s a climbing thing and not a spinning out at top speed thing, 11 versus 12 speed...
32/52 is .6154 and 28/46 is .6087 so if it’s a climbing thing and not a spinning out at top speed thing, 11 versus 12 speed doesn’t really matter (talking Shimano and SRAM here). Both of those are far easier to pedal than the old school 3x10 granny gear 24/36 combo that is .6667 which is also 28/42 11 speed.
Personally I’m happy to go back to 11 and have shorter cage that doesn’t bounce around as much and isn’t as susceptible to sucking up every other stick on the trail.
Except Sram's 11 SPD is 42t max and comparing granny gears you have to take wheel roll out into account as well as a larger wheel...
Except Sram's 11 SPD is 42t max and comparing granny gears you have to take wheel roll out into account as well as a larger wheel is effectively a harder gear. A 30t on a 29er is about the same as a 32t on a 27,5 and a 34t on a 26 inch bike.
I also said if your terrain supports it, there are places where it makes more sense to have a 28t in the front with a 52t in the back on a 29er than a 30t. Double so if you're thinking about going 165 mm or shorter on the cranks. And like I've always said in cases like these, you're welcome to come over and try out these terrains.
I run a 22 front ring with a cut down 11 speed 15-51. Perfect for the terrain here in the French Alps.
32/52 is .6154 and 28/46 is .6087 so if it’s a climbing thing and not a spinning out at top speed thing, 11 versus 12 speed...
32/52 is .6154 and 28/46 is .6087 so if it’s a climbing thing and not a spinning out at top speed thing, 11 versus 12 speed doesn’t really matter (talking Shimano and SRAM here). Both of those are far easier to pedal than the old school 3x10 granny gear 24/36 combo that is .6667 which is also 28/42 11 speed.
Personally I’m happy to go back to 11 and have shorter cage that doesn’t bounce around as much and isn’t as susceptible to sucking up every other stick on the trail.
Except Sram's 11 SPD is 42t max and comparing granny gears you have to take wheel roll out into account as well as a larger wheel...
Except Sram's 11 SPD is 42t max and comparing granny gears you have to take wheel roll out into account as well as a larger wheel is effectively a harder gear. A 30t on a 29er is about the same as a 32t on a 27,5 and a 34t on a 26 inch bike.
I also said if your terrain supports it, there are places where it makes more sense to have a 28t in the front with a 52t in the back on a 29er than a 30t. Double so if you're thinking about going 165 mm or shorter on the cranks. And like I've always said in cases like these, you're welcome to come over and try out these terrains.
Except Sram's 11 SPD is 42t max and comparing granny gears you have to take wheel roll out into account as well as a larger wheel...
Except Sram's 11 SPD is 42t max and comparing granny gears you have to take wheel roll out into account as well as a larger wheel is effectively a harder gear. A 30t on a 29er is about the same as a 32t on a 27,5 and a 34t on a 26 inch bike.
I also said if your terrain supports it, there are places where it makes more sense to have a 28t in the front with a 52t in the back on a 29er than a 30t. Double so if you're thinking about going 165 mm or shorter on the cranks. And like I've always said in cases like these, you're welcome to come over and try out these terrains.
I'm dealing with the dreaded chain not seating/ skipping on the 3rd cog issue on my SO's bike with T90. Shifts great across the range then...
I'm dealing with the dreaded chain not seating/ skipping on the 3rd cog issue on my SO's bike with T90. Shifts great across the range then the ramps on the 3rd cog are too wide or cassette was manufactured out of tolerance spacing. Looking into a cassette warranty now.
I find the new T type setup scheme to be more confusing and janky. I never had an issue adjusting a B limit screw or H/L stop. Jamming hex spanner into a slot as a setup datum and hand tensioning the "B limit" while torquing correctly, with EXACTLY the right (proprietary) chain length does not feel like a step forward. All this feels like they just wanted to save money by reusing the electric group tooling for mechanical by not having to tap holes in the castings for actual adjustment screws.
Funny enough, I was just about to google a remedy for this haha. I can’t figure out how to get this to work properly. And it’s only the third gear on my GX cassette. It didn’t have as much issue on my xo wirelsss. I swaped as I bent the Duilio and getting an eagle 90 shifter cable and derailer was significantly cheaper than just replacing the XO with just the body.
You?
All the Pivot and Evil guys reading this
Except Sram's 11 SPD is 42t max and comparing granny gears you have to take wheel roll out into account as well as a larger wheel is effectively a harder gear. A 30t on a 29er is about the same as a 32t on a 27,5 and a 34t on a 26 inch bike.
I also said if your terrain supports it, there are places where it makes more sense to have a 28t in the front with a 52t in the back on a 29er than a 30t. Double so if you're thinking about going 165 mm or shorter on the cranks. And like I've always said in cases like these, you're welcome to come over and try out these terrains.
Maybe if I can get into an internet argument with you about gearing I could get a very nice guided ride out of it
You are mixing two different ecosystems. It's bound to have problems. The cassette sits in different places between eagle and transmission.
I used to tell people back in the 11 speed days to choose what was important to them and choose the front ring appropriately.. If you were a weaker climber and didn't mind losing a some top end, go 28 or 30...
The new fluid looks like a great bike, just like the last one, but man 35#’s for a 130mm bike is chonky. I know from personally owning aluminum norcos they are not lightweights, but that new lyrik is pretty heavy too. Do we really need a lyrik on a 140mm forked bike? Pike chassis seems totally suitable for this situation.
Looking at the recent updates to the Super Deluxe, Vivid, Zeb and Lyrik, as well as last year's refresh of the Domain and Psylo, I wouldn’t be surprised if the Pike is nearing the end of its lifecycle (while the DJ will likely remain in the lineup). The question is whether the standard Pike will survive.
The SID already covers travel up to 120 mm, and the Lyrik starts at 140 mm, so there’s a clear gap in the middle. Maybe RockShox will replace the current Pike with a new model designed specifically to fill that 120–140 mm segment.
Why would they introduce a new model when they have one with name recognition?
isnt that exactly the travel range the pike currently covers?
I'm pretty sure he means that it's XX Transmission to eagle 90, both are direct mount transmission style drive trains.
Yeah man idk. At the cost of sounding like an old man yelling at clouds, I remember riding a process with a 160mm like for the first time thinking oh my god this is awesome. I still firmly believe a 140mm lyrik is just overkill.
It is, but if sales are down you aren’t going to make an e-bike sturdy product along side a regular one. Just a wild uneducated guess on my part…
Doubly so if the weight difference is 10% or less.
If i was placing bets, I'd wager the 35mm Sid chassis gets a bump to 130 to cover that small gap in the lineup...
I'd argue the Pike is still relevant in order for RS to compete with the 36 SL.
+1, and this is an unsubstantiated rumor, but I remember seeing mention of a SID XL fork elsewhere in the past ~1 month or so. Could be similar in strategy to RS offering the Rudy and Rudy XL (with more travel).
Don't be shitty, man. Breach your shop's terms with trek and then Sspomer's just going to have to remove it anyway. You could have just said "I was in my Trek dealer and overheard they were launching two 32 inch bikes soon". THAT's a proper rumour!
Agree. If you have spent any real time on the SID you'll know it's no Pike when it comes to damping quality. The chassis is fine but the damper gets a bit overwhelmed when in proper chunk. I have a SID equipped bike and it's awesome in the right terrain but it'll let you know when it's not happy. There is still a place for the Pike, especially with the weight gain of the latest Lyric.
I do agree with you on that point...
Yuuuuuup. Unless they do damper options like Fox does with SL/X/X2. I am running a SID for the first time on an xc bike this year. It's fantastic for what it's supposed to be, but it leaves a lot to be desired when things get jankier than it's intended use.
I’m a heavily bias Norco fan over here. They just don’t build light bikes. When they did, they broke.
Saying that… I definitely prefer a chonky bike as I have a chonky presence. I haven’t ridden a newer Pike, but a chassis from a few years ago felt like a wet noodle under me. The smallest chassis I feel comfortable on is a Lyric. I think they had clydesdales like me in mind for that Fluid.
Agreed. I have the new Lyrik on each of my bikes. They weigh as much as the old Zeb, and ride closer to it. The new Zeb is even beefier yet. With everything moving up half a bracket in terms of stoutness, there's definitely space between the Lyrik and SID for a light, mid-stiffness/travel fork.
Only XC or also other models?
32" Procaliber (hardtail) and Superfly (full suspension). Both will come in 5 sizes, not releasing until 2027 is what I heard.
I'm in the same boat... I have a Trance that I want to rebuild at some point and replacing the 34 with a 130mm 36SL is on the list of things I want to upgrade being a not so light rider...
Interesting! Never had it come off in 2 years on my G3, riding in all the weather we get. Our mud isn't too clay heavy which might help, but it has been flawless so far wet or dry.
I run a 22 front ring with a cut down 11 speed 15-51. Perfect for the terrain here in the French Alps.
Ha you must spin more than a hamster wheel. That’s gotta be some long steeeeeeeep climbing.
Might as well be walking the bike up at that point
Funny enough, I was just about to google a remedy for this haha. I can’t figure out how to get this to work properly. And it’s only the third gear on my GX cassette. It didn’t have as much issue on my xo wirelsss. I swaped as I bent the Duilio and getting an eagle 90 shifter cable and derailer was significantly cheaper than just replacing the XO with just the body.
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