Nerding out on Brakes shall we? Not another tech deraliment

So no one has actually done it?

I’m using the Hope rotors

On YouTube some dude tested greasing the back of the pads on hopes, which is a terrible idea but seemed to stop the squealing for some time. His thought was it’s coming from the painted pad backs,  causing the pads to move more under braking, which I could see.

I haven’t tried removing the inserts, my T4V4s squealed but my GR4s don’t, both with hope rotors.

Replying to myself as have just ended final tests.

I've started bleed process with bite point screw fully open (counterclockwise) and was trying to move the oil between caliber and reservoir.

At the same time I was limiting the pad distance by turning that screw clockwise. One turn before full stop I noticed thet I couldn't move the oil any more which means Timing port closed (no connection between reservoir and hose).

This brings be to conclusion that bite point screw is safe to play with but only if we don't close it fully (1 turn left from close)

Grease? Or some sort of brake pad mounting compound like they sell for cars? The former really does sound like a terrible idea. The latter, I've always kind of wondered about if it could have any value for bikes. Car pads seem to be a lot more tolerant of contaminates than bikes though. I had a brake line on my truck fail, and it was literally spraying the pad and rotor on that wheel with DOT fluid every time I hit the brake for 30min, until I got home. I've never been able to successfully resuscitate a pair of contaminated bike pads, despite trying all manner of cleaners, heat, etc...but on the truck I just hit the general area with some brake cleaner, and, while it made some weird squeals on the first few stops, it quieted down and has been working normally for over a year. Someone told me that car pads are less porus than bike, so contamination does not get drawn as deep into them. I'm not sure about that, but for whatever reason, they seem a lot less affected by DOT fluid.

I tell you all that, because it could reflect on how applicable motorsport pad mounting compounds are to bikes.

My first set of disc brakes were Hope M4s, probably in 1999/2000. On those I recall they recommended a small amount of copper grease on the back of the pads to keep them quiet. Might work on the modern brakes also. 

Seems to me like if the squealing is coming from painted backs, you'd be best off sanding off the paint, rather than putting grease anywhere near the pads where it could cause contamination.

Zero info on their website about these brakes ... other than the fact they are 1000€, made in Germany and supposedly powerful. Couldn't even find the pad type!

Yeah the lack of info was wild! I saw 4x19mm pistons and that’s it

We've already tried closed-system brakes, and they didnt last. Let's see if this one might.

Think I found them, pretty wild lookin pad. 

https://u--micro--mobility-de.translate.goog/produkt/umm-ts4-basic-long…

Second coming of the Elixir?

The banjo on top of the caliper and in the middle of the pistons is unique. I assume that’s to get more direct and even oil flow to all the pistons in this case.? 

So far I've been happy with the Dominion. A few downsides remain though. The biggest ones are the deadband once the pads are more than about 20% worn, and the lack of contact point adjustment.

Otherwise I loved the power delivery, modulation and lever feel.

I also ran the hope V4. Overall I liked it, but I had a few quality issues and therfore a nogo for me.

has anyone compared the maven a1 calipper b1 lever to the dominion?