Nerding out on Brakes shall we? Not another tech deraliment

Pedal Bob
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11/5/2025 12:34pm
sprungmass wrote:
I have been running the 220/203mm TRP RS05 rotors with my Maximas for this season and have been very happy. Previously I had the trickstuff rotors...

I have been running the 220/203mm TRP RS05 rotors with my Maximas for this season and have been very happy. Previously I had the trickstuff rotors 223/203 and I got really tired of truing them after every other ride. After installing the TRPs, I haven't had to true them all season which has been a real treat. They do make a high frequency ticking noise when braking at high speeds (most rotors do) but no squeaks or squeals etc. 

I have two pairs for two wheel sets and both 220mm ones required a very minor true out the box. That is because the Maxima pads sit very close to the rotors. On a caliper like Maven/code I wouldn't bother with that minor true. I couldn't use my parktool truing fork because of their 2.3mm thickness but good ol knipex piers work just fine.

Tool.jpg?VersionId=xJJUrQneLg5gcDq
2
ebruner
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11/5/2025 12:47pm

I gave up on rotor truing tools entirely... I found that I end up warping them worse then when I started.  Knipex pliers are the move for me when truing rotors.  Fortunately, that means one less tool to take with me on fly away trips.  

5
Pedal Bob
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11/5/2025 1:01pm Edited Date/Time 11/5/2025 1:08pm

That's just user error. 

I've trued rotors with a screwdriver and even a butter knife, but purpose made tools are made for a reason. 

The newest iteration of Park Tools version is the only purpose made tool I've found so far that can do a 2.5mm rotor in the deepest slot as well. That means it's the most future proof so far.

1
1
Evil96
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11/5/2025 4:07pm
Evil96 wrote:
did you have the UL or HD rotors? i was decided to pair my GR4s to the UL for some weight savings but i don't want...

did you have the UL or HD rotors? i was decided to pair my GR4s to the UL for some weight savings but i don't want to deal with rotors that don't stay straight

sprungmass wrote:
I had HD versions. GR4 and UL should not go in the same sentence. I've been down that route and saving weight on rotors has always...

I had HD versions. GR4 and UL should not go in the same sentence. I've been down that route and saving weight on rotors has always caused me a lot of hassle. In addition to constant truing, the big cut outs translate to some pulsating feeling in the lever. Especially in heavy duty brake systems.

Mmh i loved the look, plus the 203mm have smaller cuts compared to the 160mm for example 

I might listen to you on this one and get some radic rotors

Light and thick 

1
1
11/6/2025 3:17am
Haha agreed about the SRAM levers man. They're allergic to giving them any sort of grip. Outside of the wandering bite point, how did you like...

Haha agreed about the SRAM levers man. They're allergic to giving them any sort of grip. Outside of the wandering bite point, how did you like the base's? Heard they're much less "bitey" than the BRZ/Silver/Ult but how do they compare to the Dominions bite?

JVP wrote:
The Maven Base are good brakes, I'd be more than happy running them if I didn't have a set of Dominions ready to swap over. I...

The Maven Base are good brakes, I'd be more than happy running them if I didn't have a set of Dominions ready to swap over. I don't want to overstate the wandering bite on the Mavens, it's not like Shimanos, it's subtle and all brake levers move a little when heating up. But the Dominions move a slight bit less.

I haven't gone back-to-back on them, but I'd say in general they feel like a slightly less refined Dominion - initial bite is similar and well controlled. I've taken them down some super steep jank where brake control is key and they were great. Lever pull is plenty light, I never thought about it while riding. My only nits are the slick lever blade, I prefer the Domion lever shape, and the new-style master that goes parallel to the bar is annoying for quieting cable slap. Grip tape shreds gloves so if I was going to keep these Mavens long term I'd pull out the dremel and put in some grip grooves.

It's amazing that we're comparing little details like this - so many good brake choices these days.

Try some rubberized heat shrink on the levers. It might give enough grip without destroying gloves. 

2
ballz
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11/6/2025 3:47am
Haha agreed about the SRAM levers man. They're allergic to giving them any sort of grip. Outside of the wandering bite point, how did you like...

Haha agreed about the SRAM levers man. They're allergic to giving them any sort of grip. Outside of the wandering bite point, how did you like the base's? Heard they're much less "bitey" than the BRZ/Silver/Ult but how do they compare to the Dominions bite?

JVP wrote:
The Maven Base are good brakes, I'd be more than happy running them if I didn't have a set of Dominions ready to swap over. I...

The Maven Base are good brakes, I'd be more than happy running them if I didn't have a set of Dominions ready to swap over. I don't want to overstate the wandering bite on the Mavens, it's not like Shimanos, it's subtle and all brake levers move a little when heating up. But the Dominions move a slight bit less.

I haven't gone back-to-back on them, but I'd say in general they feel like a slightly less refined Dominion - initial bite is similar and well controlled. I've taken them down some super steep jank where brake control is key and they were great. Lever pull is plenty light, I never thought about it while riding. My only nits are the slick lever blade, I prefer the Domion lever shape, and the new-style master that goes parallel to the bar is annoying for quieting cable slap. Grip tape shreds gloves so if I was going to keep these Mavens long term I'd pull out the dremel and put in some grip grooves.

It's amazing that we're comparing little details like this - so many good brake choices these days.

Try some rubberized heat shrink on the levers. It might give enough grip without destroying gloves. 

Silicone tubing.

1
sprungmass
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11/6/2025 7:13am

Check out Lizard Skins DSP brake lever grips. It's a super thin bar tape cut specifically for brake levers. I use it on my Dominion A4 and Maximas. It is nice and grippy and as a bonus it helps with cold metal levers during winter. 

1000030459
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comatosegi
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Portland, OR US
11/6/2025 9:05am
AndehM wrote:
Anyone have some feedback on the TRP RS05 rotors (2.3mm) - specifically related to how true they come out of the box and how true the...

Anyone have some feedback on the TRP RS05 rotors (2.3mm) - specifically related to how true they come out of the box and how true the stay?

I've got 203mm Sharks (that I bought from Europe for ~65/ea before the tariff bullshit) on my ebike and enduro bike, and like them a lot, but certain trails have me thinking about upsizing to a 220.  Hole pattern on the RS05s looks very similar at a much more affordable price point, but in my experience 220mm rotors are much more likely to come warped out of the box and warp during use.

Same as the other responses.  I do wear out  the rotor with red semi pads.

Primoz
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11/6/2025 10:20pm
AndehM wrote:
Thanks, I ordered 1 of the S05e in 220 to try and see how it fairs.  If it has issues with straightness but I end up...

Thanks, I ordered 1 of the S05e in 220 to try and see how it fairs.  If it has issues with straightness but I end up finding a benefit to stepping up to 220, I'll pony up for a 220mm Shark (running 203s of those) since they seem pretty reliable for me.  I'm running Mavens with SRAM sintered pads FWIW.  I was hesitant to get the S01e because it's stamped vs laser cut, and I hate dealing with warped rotors (and associate stamped with warping).

Ploutre wrote:
The S01E is laser cut, and works fine, although for bigger pads like V4, the bottom of the pad is slightly hanging under the braking surface...

The S01E is laser cut, and works fine, although for bigger pads like V4, the bottom of the pad is slightly hanging under the braking surface. The S05 is better in that regard.
I would stay away from the Shark 223mm, had a pair for a season and the problem is that the tiny holes "line up", as in they're always on the same radius from the center of the rotor/hub. It means that when the pads use the rotor, grooves form in lines at the same radius. In the end I had a rotor that was 1.7mm thick at its thickest, and 1.4mm at its thinnest (in those groves). It took a lot longer to bed in new pads, it made additional noise when braking, and 1.4mm didn't feel that same to me.

That "problem" isn't as big on the smaller versions, the tiny holes are all staggered out much better. And on the TRP S05E, I haven't noticed that yet after a full season on them, and the holes look better positioned, so all good in my opinion.

Amazing that this problem still crops up. Formula had the same problem about 15 years ago and the results was exactly the same as you describe. 

At the time I was thinking that the best way to design a rotor is to have as constant a cross section as possible, making a hole smaller as you go forward in rotation should be making another one bigger. 

1
boozed
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11/7/2025 2:01am
AndehM wrote:
Thanks, I ordered 1 of the S05e in 220 to try and see how it fairs.  If it has issues with straightness but I end up...

Thanks, I ordered 1 of the S05e in 220 to try and see how it fairs.  If it has issues with straightness but I end up finding a benefit to stepping up to 220, I'll pony up for a 220mm Shark (running 203s of those) since they seem pretty reliable for me.  I'm running Mavens with SRAM sintered pads FWIW.  I was hesitant to get the S01e because it's stamped vs laser cut, and I hate dealing with warped rotors (and associate stamped with warping).

Ploutre wrote:
The S01E is laser cut, and works fine, although for bigger pads like V4, the bottom of the pad is slightly hanging under the braking surface...

The S01E is laser cut, and works fine, although for bigger pads like V4, the bottom of the pad is slightly hanging under the braking surface. The S05 is better in that regard.
I would stay away from the Shark 223mm, had a pair for a season and the problem is that the tiny holes "line up", as in they're always on the same radius from the center of the rotor/hub. It means that when the pads use the rotor, grooves form in lines at the same radius. In the end I had a rotor that was 1.7mm thick at its thickest, and 1.4mm at its thinnest (in those groves). It took a lot longer to bed in new pads, it made additional noise when braking, and 1.4mm didn't feel that same to me.

That "problem" isn't as big on the smaller versions, the tiny holes are all staggered out much better. And on the TRP S05E, I haven't noticed that yet after a full season on them, and the holes look better positioned, so all good in my opinion.

Primoz wrote:
Amazing that this problem still crops up. Formula had the same problem about 15 years ago and the results was exactly the same as you describe. At...

Amazing that this problem still crops up. Formula had the same problem about 15 years ago and the results was exactly the same as you describe. 

At the time I was thinking that the best way to design a rotor is to have as constant a cross section as possible, making a hole smaller as you go forward in rotation should be making another one bigger. 

It surprises me because it's near trivial to audit in your CAD model...

2
11/7/2025 1:09pm

I had a bad run with TRP too. First sec of rotors with DHr Evo’s lasted less than a ride as it turned out the stock TRP pads had the blue backing plate paint contaminating the pad compound. It cooked in to rotor and that was that. 

I got another set but just found they never felt powerful. I swapped in some Magura rotors and it was much better immediately. Ultimately I was never happy with the power of the DHr Evo. Someone I know at one of the distributors mentioned similar experiences and very small piston leaks might have been to blame.

The Serious
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christchurch NZ
11/7/2025 1:20pm Edited Date/Time 11/7/2025 1:21pm
I had a bad run with TRP too. First sec of rotors with DHr Evo’s lasted less than a ride as it turned out the stock...

I had a bad run with TRP too. First sec of rotors with DHr Evo’s lasted less than a ride as it turned out the stock TRP pads had the blue backing plate paint contaminating the pad compound. It cooked in to rotor and that was that. 

I got another set but just found they never felt powerful. I swapped in some Magura rotors and it was much better immediately. Ultimately I was never happy with the power of the DHr Evo. Someone I know at one of the distributors mentioned similar experiences and very small piston leaks might have been to blame.

I've always had issues with the blue pads. Swapped for purple Galfer, evo pro with r5 rotors are pretty good.

They are definitely not the most powerful but a friend runs the green galfer and Green sinter(brand) pad and they are awesome.

an early set of dhr evo regular's i had used to weep from the piston seals.

Pedal Bob
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11/7/2025 1:51pm Edited Date/Time 11/7/2025 1:52pm
I had a bad run with TRP too. First sec of rotors with DHr Evo’s lasted less than a ride as it turned out the stock...

I had a bad run with TRP too. First sec of rotors with DHr Evo’s lasted less than a ride as it turned out the stock TRP pads had the blue backing plate paint contaminating the pad compound. It cooked in to rotor and that was that. 

I got another set but just found they never felt powerful. I swapped in some Magura rotors and it was much better immediately. Ultimately I was never happy with the power of the DHr Evo. Someone I know at one of the distributors mentioned similar experiences and very small piston leaks might have been to blame.

20250629 104442 0

 

This was done by the red "Hope" pads made by Galfer. I only bedded in the pads, and over night I had to pry the pads off because they were stuck. 

 

20250629 115124 0.jpg?VersionId=QE2WJ0IrPkG40lD9JhH

 

Thankfully I managed to wipe off all the paint with just isopropyl alcohol. 

I have since just used the green Hope pads as I've seen others have similar issues with the purple pads. 

How did the rotor surface look like given you state it cooked into the rotor, or was it just lacking bite?

The Serious
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11/7/2025 2:46pm

what were they 'stuck to'? 

Pedal Bob
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11/8/2025 12:34am

The phenolic inserts where you see the red paint residue. 

Evil96
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11/8/2025 1:16am
Pedal Bob wrote:

The phenolic inserts where you see the red paint residue. 

Am I the only one thinking it would be cool as if someone bothered adding a magnet to that phenolic insert to make the piston Magura style? 

1
Primoz
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11/8/2025 1:39am

I think so. Doesn't work with aluminium backed pads (are not so common though), will pull any metallic wear particles, the magnets have to be high temperature resistant and can demagnetise if overheated, etc.

There's nothing really wrong with the pins that most brakes use. 

11/8/2025 6:28am

What would be a good set of brake pads that work better “cold” rather than needing to be warmed up after a few corners before they start preforming?


I need to replace my Intend pads and while I thought they were ok I want something that hits operating temperature faster since my brake system has way more hear capacity than my 160lb rider weight can use. 

AndehM
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11/8/2025 7:02am
What would be a good set of brake pads that work better “cold” rather than needing to be warmed up after a few corners before they...

What would be a good set of brake pads that work better “cold” rather than needing to be warmed up after a few corners before they start preforming?


I need to replace my Intend pads and while I thought they were ok I want something that hits operating temperature faster since my brake system has way more hear capacity than my 160lb rider weight can use. 

Something organic or semi-metallic rather than full sintered.  Galfer greens bed in like instantly, so that could work really well.  I tried those and they felt great but wore down really fast.  I'm about your weight, and prefer organics on my non-ebikes for that reason.  For ebikes, I run sintered because their extra weight pushes me over the threshold.

3
jasbushey
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Durango, CO US
11/8/2025 7:20am
What would be a good set of brake pads that work better “cold” rather than needing to be warmed up after a few corners before they...

What would be a good set of brake pads that work better “cold” rather than needing to be warmed up after a few corners before they start preforming?


I need to replace my Intend pads and while I thought they were ok I want something that hits operating temperature faster since my brake system has way more hear capacity than my 160lb rider weight can use. 

I’m 150lb and I have 2 setups with MTX red pads. One with Hayes + 200x1.95 rotors (Hayes D) and another with Formula Cura 4 with Formula Rotors (200x2.3 monolith). I find the Hayes are up to braking power in cold faster than the Formulas.  The Formula seem to stay cooler on heavy consistent braking though.

All that to say rotors width I believe may play a role in “warm up” and I like MTX reds. 

1
11/8/2025 7:46am
What would be a good set of brake pads that work better “cold” rather than needing to be warmed up after a few corners before they...

What would be a good set of brake pads that work better “cold” rather than needing to be warmed up after a few corners before they start preforming?


I need to replace my Intend pads and while I thought they were ok I want something that hits operating temperature faster since my brake system has way more hear capacity than my 160lb rider weight can use. 

jasbushey wrote:
I’m 150lb and I have 2 setups with MTX red pads. One with Hayes + 200x1.95 rotors (Hayes D) and another with Formula Cura 4 with...

I’m 150lb and I have 2 setups with MTX red pads. One with Hayes + 200x1.95 rotors (Hayes D) and another with Formula Cura 4 with Formula Rotors (200x2.3 monolith). I find the Hayes are up to braking power in cold faster than the Formulas.  The Formula seem to stay cooler on heavy consistent braking though.

All that to say rotors width I believe may play a role in “warm up” and I like MTX reds. 

Im on the 203mm TRP 2.3 rotors

jasbushey
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Durango, CO US
11/8/2025 10:23am Edited Date/Time 11/8/2025 10:24am

My only disclaimer is that I have no problem with either being “cold”.  It may take a few seconds of using it, but doesn’t impact me. I don’t ride in that cold so YRMV. 

Obviously pads are the least cost option to try first.

The Serious
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christchurch NZ
11/8/2025 10:26am

Galfer green is the best for quick brake performance but comes at the cost of pad life.... however they are great.

4
AndehM
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El Granada, CA US
11/8/2025 7:58pm

Got a big ride in on the TRP S05e 220 rotor today.  You guys were spot on.  It was nearly perfectly true out of the box and took very little to true up.  On the bike, they have a nice solid bite, maybe a little less sharp than the Sharks but somehow feel firmer at the lever.  Waaaayyy quieter.  They made 2 little squeaks I think in 3 hours that went away instantly.  Anyways, pretty big fan of these after 1 ride.  When I wear out my 203 Sharks I plan on replacing them with the 203 version of the S05e.

5
11/10/2025 2:20am

Swiss stop organic are good, go well with an alloy core Shimano rotor in cold temps.

ebruner
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Tustin, CA US
11/10/2025 7:48am Edited Date/Time 11/10/2025 7:49am

Longshot here... does anyone fancy a trade on brake setups?  My TRPs for your Mavens.

I have some TRP DHR Evos that I'd like to trade for Maven Silvers.  I like my TRPs, but now my 3 other bikes have maven's on them and switching back and forth is a pain.  I'm going to fire sale these at an insane deal for what they are... but I know that people in this thread are very particular about brakes like I am and figure someone may be in the same situation and going the opposite direction.  This set of brakes if flawless, no odd lever issues, no bleed issues and under 400 miles on them.  

TRP DHR Evos (silver), Freedom Coast Levers (silver), 2x Shimano Metallic Pads bedded to 203mm TRP RS01E rotors, 2x TRP Organic Pads (blue) bedded to 220mm TRP RS05E rotors, stock trp lever blades, 203mm trp brake adapters, extra bleed/olive fittings.  

 

11/10/2025 9:45am
Primoz wrote:

Isn't the general consensus that Dominions are a smidge more powerful than Codes, but not at the level of the new, powerful stuff?

Shinook wrote:
When they came out, they were one of the more powerful options available and had one of the best lever feels available. That was in 2018...

When they came out, they were one of the more powerful options available and had one of the best lever feels available. That was in 2018 though and there have since been more powerful options out there, so they are kindof in the middle compared to when they came out. They were more consistent than the Codes for me and had a stronger, more progressive bite.

Maxima, Maven, Intend, Radic, Hope T4V4 all have more power than the Dominions do and a stronger bite point with less deadstroke in my experience. 

I have Dominions one one bike, and Trinity's on the other... the Intend brakes are brutal for a small chap like me. almost unreasonable power haha.

Dominions just work, 3yrs of nothing done they just work the same all the time. 

11/10/2025 10:12am

Ah, another season and another leaking xt lever to my collection. 

They are cheap af but it's a bit dissapointing - the collection is already quite impressive. 

Did you try to swap the piston to some aftermarket ones from aliexpress? 

mitch160
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AU
11/11/2025 4:07am

https://www.instagram.com/p/DQ4cFlRjIsr/?hl=en

Would anyone know when or if there is going to be these new swing links for the mavens available to the public. Currently i think that they are red in the current brakes, these gold ones on luca's bike apparently have a lighter lever feel which would make the mavens way better. i might remember seeing some point during the world cup season troy brosnan was also running something similar. 

mbrmagazine 1762791078 3762881017590614827 1587236776 - frame at 0m41s

1
Ploutre
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FR
11/11/2025 8:55am
mitch160 wrote:
https://www.instagram.com/p/DQ4cFlRjIsr/?hl=enWould anyone know when or if there is going to be these new swing links for the mavens available to the public. Currently i think...

https://www.instagram.com/p/DQ4cFlRjIsr/?hl=en

Would anyone know when or if there is going to be these new swing links for the mavens available to the public. Currently i think that they are red in the current brakes, these gold ones on luca's bike apparently have a lighter lever feel which would make the mavens way better. i might remember seeing some point during the world cup season troy brosnan was also running something similar. 

mbrmagazine 1762791078 3762881017590614827 1587236776 - frame at 0m41s

I believe it's April (or somewhere around April '26) for the launch of a whole range of SRAM products, these included. I wonder if they'll make those available on their own to install on current gen of Mavens

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