Alright, so to save money this year (as I've already spent too much on other upgrades) I am changing my Code Rs to RSC levers. Got...
Alright, so to save money this year (as I've already spent too much on other upgrades) I am changing my Code Rs to RSC levers. Got an insane deal on eBay from a take-off set.
Curious to know if there are any weird tips for the bleed. I have bleed my Guide RSCs a few times but they still feel a little mushy. Strong, but mushy.
I am using a Bleed Zone pro kit with the bleeding edge adapter and the syringes that can lock.
After reading about the new XTR brakes needing low viscosity oil and shimano saying you should NOT use that oil on their older brakes, I'm wondering...
After reading about the new XTR brakes needing low viscosity oil and shimano saying you should NOT use that oil on their older brakes, I'm wondering if I messed up my Lewis LHP's by using likewater low viscosity fluid. I've bled these brakes several times and it seems like what's happening is some oil is leaking out of the master cylinder piston. They feel great right after the bleed then after a ride or two, I start seeing oil droplets around that area of the master cylinder. I've been in a very slow conversation on instagram with Lewis, and last I heard from them is that I should check the piston sleeve. So I took it apart and piston and all the seals look fine. But if they're swollen from the wrong the brake fluid, they wouldn't necessary look bad right? So I think I'll order some Lewis fluid and try a full bleed with that. But will that revive the seals? Or do they need replacing? Anyone ever have issues because of using lower viscosity fluid than the recommended fluid?
in theory, it shouldn't matter but that doesn't mean that everything is sympatico. There is always the chance that a co developed their fluid and seal...
in theory, it shouldn't matter but that doesn't mean that everything is sympatico. There is always the chance that a co developed their fluid and seal composition formulas in house and the two are tied together. Lewis doesn't show their fluid on their website, but by color it at least looks like Maxima, same as Sram's. My guess would be that LikeWater's viscosity allows it to creep past the seals. Some components require specific fluid weights for their mechanical properties, and indeed that's one of the reasons semibath oils tend to be heavier. They stick to the slidey bits and are retained by a dust seal rather than oil seal, both decreasing friction. Seal shape and surface finishes are generally the reason for the specified weights. Full disclosure, I've run Like Water in other mineral oil systems without issue (indeed, way better in cold than Shimano's red juice), I just can't comment on Lewis directly. To that end, I'd drain the system and rebleed with the proper fluid 2x to insure things and then see if the weep creeps back. Checking out the MSDS sheets from both wouldn't hurt either.
If anything, these situs show one real pita for shops and manufacturers to monitor, insuring specified fluids go into their units. The lack of standardization in mineral oils is a helluva nuisance, and one that is not bemoaned enough by consumers/shops/OEs. I've 3 diff bottles of mineral oil in my chemical bin, simply because I needed them at one point to work on others' bikes, and I'm not a shop. Guessing the Magura will be the last bottle standing.
Yeah, I think it's worth a try to replace the fluid. Thanks for the input. I should have also said that this is happening on both front and rear brakes, which strengthens the theory I think. Will report back...
Alright, so to save money this year (as I've already spent too much on other upgrades) I am changing my Code Rs to RSC levers. Got...
Alright, so to save money this year (as I've already spent too much on other upgrades) I am changing my Code Rs to RSC levers. Got an insane deal on eBay from a take-off set.
Curious to know if there are any weird tips for the bleed. I have bleed my Guide RSCs a few times but they still feel a little mushy. Strong, but mushy.
I am using a Bleed Zone pro kit with the bleeding edge adapter and the syringes that can lock.
At the end of the bleed after you close the master cylinder port, you can over fill the caliper a tiny bit by pushing on that...
At the end of the bleed after you close the master cylinder port, you can over fill the caliper a tiny bit by pushing on that syringe while closing off the bleeding edge port. It'll give you less lever throw. Don't overdo it though.
Hope's disc options are quite confusing and have changed in the last few years. 10 years ago they had one piece 1.8mm, floating 1.8mm and 3.3mm vented. Around 2018 (I think - I bought a set specifically for the EWS race in La Thuile that year after experiencing fade there in 2016) they introduced a heavy duty disc that was 2.3mm thick, possibly aimed at e-bikes as there were lightning bolt patterns. A few years ago the heavy duty disc was merged with their standard one piece line up so that now the one piece discs are 1.8mm in sizes 140 and 160 and 2.3mm in sizes 180 and above. It really isn't clear in a lot of shops though whether they are new or old stock.
Hope's disc options are quite confusing and have changed in the last few years. 10 years ago they had one piece 1.8mm, floating 1.8mm and 3.3mm...
Hope's disc options are quite confusing and have changed in the last few years. 10 years ago they had one piece 1.8mm, floating 1.8mm and 3.3mm vented. Around 2018 (I think - I bought a set specifically for the EWS race in La Thuile that year after experiencing fade there in 2016) they introduced a heavy duty disc that was 2.3mm thick, possibly aimed at e-bikes as there were lightning bolt patterns. A few years ago the heavy duty disc was merged with their standard one piece line up so that now the one piece discs are 1.8mm in sizes 140 and 160 and 2.3mm in sizes 180 and above. It really isn't clear in a lot of shops though whether they are new or old stock.
Adding to this, the heavy duty with lightning have a bigger friction area compared to the normal 2.3 thick one piece, somehow every place that sells Hope as a picture for the one piece have the heavy duty with the lightning, which makes it confusing as it’s not what you’ll get.
You can custom order those and it take ages to get them, also they’re quite heavy a 2.3mm one piece sits at 222gr for a 203 rotor, the Hd ones are over 250gr for the 203
I got a set of Intends recently and the bite point “grows” as the brakes warm up and I had to keep moving my levers closer...
I got a set of Intends recently and the bite point “grows” as the brakes warm up and I had to keep moving my levers closer and closer to the bars to compensate. This is something my Shimano 8120s did too. Is this normal for brakes or do I need to re-visit my bleed?
I know Intends are old news but I finally got them all working after three bleeds and new rotors. Most of these lessons learned are simply rookie mistakes as the most brake work I’ve done prior to this is replacing pads and shortening hoses, so much of this would apply to any brake set and aren’t unique to Intends but Im going to document them for posterity anyway:
- The Intend hoses are really stiff and hard to cut, they appear to have a kevlar fiber surrounding the inner plastic tube which is really stiff. I have the Park Tool hose tool and it ate my blades that otherwise cut through Shimano hoses just fine. I’d recommend just getting good with a utility knife with a new blade. Practice a few cuts on the rear hose since you’ll have extra of that and don’t use cable cutters because it will crease the inner hose. The Parktool barb installer hilariously made a really good vice for holding the hose to cut it with a knife
- @Shinook had a really good advice about bleeding. You need to pass the oil back and forth several times and massage the pistons, I actually found quite a bit of air on my third bleed after doing a piston massage. Make sure the oil is visually free of bubbles before passing it back and forth, the Intend instructional video actually shows Cornelius sucking in bubbles in to the brakes because he passes it back and forth so quickly; it helps to pull a vacuum on the caliper syringe with the bleed screw closed.
- The pad to rotor clearance is really tight so if your rotors are any bit of warped you should cut your losses and get new ones. I spent about 4 hours combined after multiple rides re-truing my Shimano RT86s because they would re-warp after riding. I eventually gave up and got some of the new TRP S05Es, they required a little truing but took way less effort than the old warped rotors. Side note, I found out a 11mm bleed block from the Parktool kit was the perfect size to push the pistons all the way in to fit the 2.3mm thick rotor. The block took some careful maneuvering to get into place with the help of a tire lever but if you wiggle it back and forth it with center your pistons nicely.
The fact these brakes ships dry is the most challenging part of the install, other than that its pretty straightforward and a fun learning experience.
Alright, so to save money this year (as I've already spent too much on other upgrades) I am changing my Code Rs to RSC levers. Got...
Alright, so to save money this year (as I've already spent too much on other upgrades) I am changing my Code Rs to RSC levers. Got an insane deal on eBay from a take-off set.
Curious to know if there are any weird tips for the bleed. I have bleed my Guide RSCs a few times but they still feel a little mushy. Strong, but mushy.
I am using a Bleed Zone pro kit with the bleeding edge adapter and the syringes that can lock.
As much as I resent it, I've been trying the piston massage on all the Sram brakes I've worked on, and even worse, it improves the lever feel of all of them. What I do is a full bleed to flush out the fluid (I'm using motorex dot 5.1, great fluid) locking off the syringe at the lever and then doing the piston massage until all the pistons are moving as evenly and freely as possible. Then I'll open up the lever syringe again and do a lever bleed / vacuum to get the last bit of air out. Takes some time to do but it's been making the brakes have a lot better lever feel, way less mush, even with the g2s. Pisses me off every time I do it though haha.
Alright, so to save money this year (as I've already spent too much on other upgrades) I am changing my Code Rs to RSC levers. Got...
Alright, so to save money this year (as I've already spent too much on other upgrades) I am changing my Code Rs to RSC levers. Got an insane deal on eBay from a take-off set.
Curious to know if there are any weird tips for the bleed. I have bleed my Guide RSCs a few times but they still feel a little mushy. Strong, but mushy.
I am using a Bleed Zone pro kit with the bleeding edge adapter and the syringes that can lock.
As much as I resent it, I've been trying the piston massage on all the Sram brakes I've worked on, and even worse, it improves the...
As much as I resent it, I've been trying the piston massage on all the Sram brakes I've worked on, and even worse, it improves the lever feel of all of them. What I do is a full bleed to flush out the fluid (I'm using motorex dot 5.1, great fluid) locking off the syringe at the lever and then doing the piston massage until all the pistons are moving as evenly and freely as possible. Then I'll open up the lever syringe again and do a lever bleed / vacuum to get the last bit of air out. Takes some time to do but it's been making the brakes have a lot better lever feel, way less mush, even with the g2s. Pisses me off every time I do it though haha.
of course it's annoying to do, it's easy to push the pistons out but takes ages to put them back in, i'm still unsure what makes them so hard to push back, i mean the maguras use the same kind of pistons and they move like nothing
Alright, so to save money this year (as I've already spent too much on other upgrades) I am changing my Code Rs to RSC levers. Got...
Alright, so to save money this year (as I've already spent too much on other upgrades) I am changing my Code Rs to RSC levers. Got an insane deal on eBay from a take-off set.
Curious to know if there are any weird tips for the bleed. I have bleed my Guide RSCs a few times but they still feel a little mushy. Strong, but mushy.
I am using a Bleed Zone pro kit with the bleeding edge adapter and the syringes that can lock.
As much as I resent it, I've been trying the piston massage on all the Sram brakes I've worked on, and even worse, it improves the...
As much as I resent it, I've been trying the piston massage on all the Sram brakes I've worked on, and even worse, it improves the lever feel of all of them. What I do is a full bleed to flush out the fluid (I'm using motorex dot 5.1, great fluid) locking off the syringe at the lever and then doing the piston massage until all the pistons are moving as evenly and freely as possible. Then I'll open up the lever syringe again and do a lever bleed / vacuum to get the last bit of air out. Takes some time to do but it's been making the brakes have a lot better lever feel, way less mush, even with the g2s. Pisses me off every time I do it though haha.
of course it's annoying to do, it's easy to push the pistons out but takes ages to put them back in, i'm still unsure what makes...
of course it's annoying to do, it's easy to push the pistons out but takes ages to put them back in, i'm still unsure what makes them so hard to push back, i mean the maguras use the same kind of pistons and they move like nothing
you have to push them in straight by applying the pressure in the middle of the piston. Bit off to the side you tilt the pistons which makes them go in a lot harder. If you do tilt them push on the other side to straighten them in the seals again, you'll feel once you hit the sweet spot, they slide very easily.
you have to push them in straight by applying the pressure in the middle of the piston. Bit off to the side you tilt the pistons...
you have to push them in straight by applying the pressure in the middle of the piston. Bit off to the side you tilt the pistons which makes them go in a lot harder. If you do tilt them push on the other side to straighten them in the seals again, you'll feel once you hit the sweet spot, they slide very easily.
I think very easily it’s something else, Hope, Magura even I just do it with my fingers
Sram of all kinds require force, and I’m aware the more centered the better or they go all wonky
I don’t understand how much more it can cost to make them slide nicely with better tolerances
After going back and fourth for the last month I decided to pull the trigger on some T4V4’s to replace the Radic Kaha’s that I’ve been running for the last year. I figured my purchase should trigger some event that causes hope to release the new gravity brake causing me to have buyers remorse over the purchase for not waiting, but giving anyone else the opportunity to grab some discounted T4V4’s or the new brake… your welcome 😂.
Some initial impressions:
Last time I worked on a set of hope brakes was at least 15 years ago, and they always seemed to be shelf queens imo. I know that has changed but I’m happy to see/feel it in person. Pad retraction is pretty damn good, having struggled with mt7 for longer than I should have and coming from Kaha’s that are intolerant of any runout in rotors I’m pretty happy that these have a decent amount while still having short throw. Coming to that, the dead stroke is much much better than I was expecting, not sure if it’s exaggerated or what but with the contact point adjuster wound in for the least free/dead stroke I am measuring 14mm until the lever firms up. That’s actually very close to where I have the free stroke set on my Kaha’s, also adjustable, to maintain reliability. I will say, they have a heavier lever pull than both the Kaha’s and the Dominions, by a fair amount to the latter.
I pulled my Trickstuff pads from my Kaha’s to have a better idea of how they stop, with everything else being equal, tbh I feel like there is no difference in power other than I builds slower, more modulation, but required more lever throw to get there.
I was able to get the calipers centered on the rotors and have nearly equal piston extension front and rear. The bleed process brought back memories but I used a miniature hose clamp to secure the hose to the barb at the caliper which made it a lot easier to pull a vacuum and dislodge any bubbles in the caliper before I pulled the diaphragm and performed a push bleed from the caliper. The front brake was pretty poorly bled from the factory, the rear was perfect (based on lever feel prior to cutting the hoses) can’t wait to put some laps on them and hoping, pun intended, they solve my weird reliability issue that comes and goes with the Kaha’s…
After going back and fourth for the last month I decided to pull the trigger on some T4V4’s to replace the Radic Kaha’s that I’ve been...
After going back and fourth for the last month I decided to pull the trigger on some T4V4’s to replace the Radic Kaha’s that I’ve been running for the last year. I figured my purchase should trigger some event that causes hope to release the new gravity brake causing me to have buyers remorse over the purchase for not waiting, but giving anyone else the opportunity to grab some discounted T4V4’s or the new brake… your welcome 😂.
Some initial impressions:
Last time I worked on a set of hope brakes was at least 15 years ago, and they always seemed to be shelf queens imo. I know that has changed but I’m happy to see/feel it in person. Pad retraction is pretty damn good, having struggled with mt7 for longer than I should have and coming from Kaha’s that are intolerant of any runout in rotors I’m pretty happy that these have a decent amount while still having short throw. Coming to that, the dead stroke is much much better than I was expecting, not sure if it’s exaggerated or what but with the contact point adjuster wound in for the least free/dead stroke I am measuring 14mm until the lever firms up. That’s actually very close to where I have the free stroke set on my Kaha’s, also adjustable, to maintain reliability. I will say, they have a heavier lever pull than both the Kaha’s and the Dominions, by a fair amount to the latter.
I pulled my Trickstuff pads from my Kaha’s to have a better idea of how they stop, with everything else being equal, tbh I feel like there is no difference in power other than I builds slower, more modulation, but required more lever throw to get there.
I was able to get the calipers centered on the rotors and have nearly equal piston extension front and rear. The bleed process brought back memories but I used a miniature hose clamp to secure the hose to the barb at the caliper which made it a lot easier to pull a vacuum and dislodge any bubbles in the caliper before I pulled the diaphragm and performed a push bleed from the caliper. The front brake was pretty poorly bled from the factory, the rear was perfect (based on lever feel prior to cutting the hoses) can’t wait to put some laps on them and hoping, pun intended, they solve my weird reliability issue that comes and goes with the Kaha’s…
Im curious to know how you like them with the power pads, they’ve been my favourite pads on every other brake I’ve used.
The nerd in me would really love to match a Kahas lever to the v4 calipers to have an even better feel with even lighter pull 🤔 and that would also increase the power even further
After going back and fourth for the last month I decided to pull the trigger on some T4V4’s to replace the Radic Kaha’s that I’ve been...
After going back and fourth for the last month I decided to pull the trigger on some T4V4’s to replace the Radic Kaha’s that I’ve been running for the last year. I figured my purchase should trigger some event that causes hope to release the new gravity brake causing me to have buyers remorse over the purchase for not waiting, but giving anyone else the opportunity to grab some discounted T4V4’s or the new brake… your welcome 😂.
Some initial impressions:
Last time I worked on a set of hope brakes was at least 15 years ago, and they always seemed to be shelf queens imo. I know that has changed but I’m happy to see/feel it in person. Pad retraction is pretty damn good, having struggled with mt7 for longer than I should have and coming from Kaha’s that are intolerant of any runout in rotors I’m pretty happy that these have a decent amount while still having short throw. Coming to that, the dead stroke is much much better than I was expecting, not sure if it’s exaggerated or what but with the contact point adjuster wound in for the least free/dead stroke I am measuring 14mm until the lever firms up. That’s actually very close to where I have the free stroke set on my Kaha’s, also adjustable, to maintain reliability. I will say, they have a heavier lever pull than both the Kaha’s and the Dominions, by a fair amount to the latter.
I pulled my Trickstuff pads from my Kaha’s to have a better idea of how they stop, with everything else being equal, tbh I feel like there is no difference in power other than I builds slower, more modulation, but required more lever throw to get there.
I was able to get the calipers centered on the rotors and have nearly equal piston extension front and rear. The bleed process brought back memories but I used a miniature hose clamp to secure the hose to the barb at the caliper which made it a lot easier to pull a vacuum and dislodge any bubbles in the caliper before I pulled the diaphragm and performed a push bleed from the caliper. The front brake was pretty poorly bled from the factory, the rear was perfect (based on lever feel prior to cutting the hoses) can’t wait to put some laps on them and hoping, pun intended, they solve my weird reliability issue that comes and goes with the Kaha’s…
Im curious to know how you like them with the power pads, they’ve been my favourite pads on every other brake I’ve used.The nerd in me...
Im curious to know how you like them with the power pads, they’ve been my favourite pads on every other brake I’ve used.
The nerd in me would really love to match a Kahas lever to the v4 calipers to have an even better feel with even lighter pull 🤔 and that would also increase the power even further
Same here, but the levers have been the pain point for me, the seals have started to drag so much that the MC piston spring wont return the mc piston and lever all the way. Granted it only happens after the bike has sat for a few hours and you can pump them quickly to get the seal to soften up and start moving again but its a pain in the a$$. If I can get them to replace the seals under warranty and fix the issue, id be happy to try it out! Until then they will be collecting dust on the bench.
Same here, but the levers have been the pain point for me, the seals have started to drag so much that the MC piston spring wont...
Same here, but the levers have been the pain point for me, the seals have started to drag so much that the MC piston spring wont return the mc piston and lever all the way. Granted it only happens after the bike has sat for a few hours and you can pump them quickly to get the seal to soften up and start moving again but its a pain in the a$$. If I can get them to replace the seals under warranty and fix the issue, id be happy to try it out! Until then they will be collecting dust on the bench.
that issue of slow return mc piston is why i'm getting mc seals and pistons from hope as a warranty 😅
That's a chonky caliper just like the Mavens. Saints are well regarded here in the mountains so I bet these will sell pretty well. They will probably use LV fluid since the XTR levers are being used. Those two openings on top should be easy to cover so mud doesn't get in.
Trickstuff on their website have pressure ratings for their Goodrige braided hose and for their Beta Kevlar hoseQuite significant differenceThen you’ve got Hope claiming nothing changes...
Trickstuff on their website have pressure ratings for their Goodrige braided hose and for their Beta Kevlar hose
Quite significant difference
Then you’ve got Hope claiming nothing changes and I believe is bullshit
It might make a difference when you’re applying like 80-100% brake.
It won’t make any difference when you’re lightly applying the brake, like 0-10%. You have to expand the hose before the braid can apply any force to it. It’s not like it’s pretensioned around the inner hose.
It might make a difference when you’re applying like 80-100% brake.It won’t make any difference when you’re lightly applying the brake, like 0-10%. You have to...
It might make a difference when you’re applying like 80-100% brake.
It won’t make any difference when you’re lightly applying the brake, like 0-10%. You have to expand the hose before the braid can apply any force to it. It’s not like it’s pretensioned around the inner hose.
I do believe it makes brake feel different, sharper more defined bite.
That’s why pros use stiffer hoses on trp, stock ones are soft, you can feel them and see them moving while just using the lever.
2.3? lewis but they are similar to the TRP r1. the newer r5 rotors are good.
Otherwise there is plenty in the 2mm range.
What I do is go to the contact point in all the way before inserting the syringe
While bleeding lever all the way out and contact point all out
Before removing the syringe at the lever contact point all the way in again and push fluid in to “overfill”
It will spill the extra
That’s SRAM mechanics tips and it works a treat without needing to overfill anything through the bleeding edge
Radic performance
Intend massive those are 223 tho
Hope one piece are 2.3 and 220
Braking makes the pets stage 0 at 2.2mm in a 220
Hope also have some heavy duty one piece at 2.3mm
You mean rotate fully opposite of the arrow? Yes.
I just installed Galfer Wave 223 at 2.0mm
Yeah, I think it's worth a try to replace the fluid. Thanks for the input. I should have also said that this is happening on both front and rear brakes, which strengthens the theory I think. Will report back...
Or just use a thinner bleed block...
Hope's disc options are quite confusing and have changed in the last few years. 10 years ago they had one piece 1.8mm, floating 1.8mm and 3.3mm vented. Around 2018 (I think - I bought a set specifically for the EWS race in La Thuile that year after experiencing fade there in 2016) they introduced a heavy duty disc that was 2.3mm thick, possibly aimed at e-bikes as there were lightning bolt patterns. A few years ago the heavy duty disc was merged with their standard one piece line up so that now the one piece discs are 1.8mm in sizes 140 and 160 and 2.3mm in sizes 180 and above. It really isn't clear in a lot of shops though whether they are new or old stock.
Adding to this, the heavy duty with lightning have a bigger friction area compared to the normal 2.3 thick one piece, somehow every place that sells Hope as a picture for the one piece have the heavy duty with the lightning, which makes it confusing as it’s not what you’ll get.
You can custom order those and it take ages to get them, also they’re quite heavy a 2.3mm one piece sits at 222gr for a 203 rotor, the Hd ones are over 250gr for the 203
I know Intends are old news but I finally got them all working after three bleeds and new rotors. Most of these lessons learned are simply rookie mistakes as the most brake work I’ve done prior to this is replacing pads and shortening hoses, so much of this would apply to any brake set and aren’t unique to Intends but Im going to document them for posterity anyway:
- The Intend hoses are really stiff and hard to cut, they appear to have a kevlar fiber surrounding the inner plastic tube which is really stiff. I have the Park Tool hose tool and it ate my blades that otherwise cut through Shimano hoses just fine. I’d recommend just getting good with a utility knife with a new blade. Practice a few cuts on the rear hose since you’ll have extra of that and don’t use cable cutters because it will crease the inner hose. The Parktool barb installer hilariously made a really good vice for holding the hose to cut it with a knife
- @Shinook had a really good advice about bleeding. You need to pass the oil back and forth several times and massage the pistons, I actually found quite a bit of air on my third bleed after doing a piston massage. Make sure the oil is visually free of bubbles before passing it back and forth, the Intend instructional video actually shows Cornelius sucking in bubbles in to the brakes because he passes it back and forth so quickly; it helps to pull a vacuum on the caliper syringe with the bleed screw closed.
- The pad to rotor clearance is really tight so if your rotors are any bit of warped you should cut your losses and get new ones. I spent about 4 hours combined after multiple rides re-truing my Shimano RT86s because they would re-warp after riding. I eventually gave up and got some of the new TRP S05Es, they required a little truing but took way less effort than the old warped rotors. Side note, I found out a 11mm bleed block from the Parktool kit was the perfect size to push the pistons all the way in to fit the 2.3mm thick rotor. The block took some careful maneuvering to get into place with the help of a tire lever but if you wiggle it back and forth it with center your pistons nicely.
The fact these brakes ships dry is the most challenging part of the install, other than that its pretty straightforward and a fun learning experience.
As much as I resent it, I've been trying the piston massage on all the Sram brakes I've worked on, and even worse, it improves the lever feel of all of them. What I do is a full bleed to flush out the fluid (I'm using motorex dot 5.1, great fluid) locking off the syringe at the lever and then doing the piston massage until all the pistons are moving as evenly and freely as possible. Then I'll open up the lever syringe again and do a lever bleed / vacuum to get the last bit of air out. Takes some time to do but it's been making the brakes have a lot better lever feel, way less mush, even with the g2s. Pisses me off every time I do it though haha.
of course it's annoying to do, it's easy to push the pistons out but takes ages to put them back in, i'm still unsure what makes them so hard to push back, i mean the maguras use the same kind of pistons and they move like nothing
Tolerances...
Is the piston massage described in the Maven bleed procedure?
EDIT: found it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaNINyOcmJI
Yup, now they have a tool rather than the dual rotor
I just wish it was that easy to push them back
On the Hopes you blow on them and they move back
you have to push them in straight by applying the pressure in the middle of the piston. Bit off to the side you tilt the pistons which makes them go in a lot harder. If you do tilt them push on the other side to straighten them in the seals again, you'll feel once you hit the sweet spot, they slide very easily.
I think very easily it’s something else, Hope, Magura even I just do it with my fingers
Sram of all kinds require force, and I’m aware the more centered the better or they go all wonky
I don’t understand how much more it can cost to make them slide nicely with better tolerances
Even Trp got that sorted nicely
Could be the bores, the pistons or the seals.
Have you tried this hub, rotor and caliper combo on another frame? Have you tried a different wheel and/or rotor on this frame? A different brake?
What I'm asking is this a Hope V4 caliper issue, a frame issue (frame model or specific frame even maybe) or a combination issue.
I found the hopes and other big rotor(thick) calipers need the rotors perfectly in the centre or they will always unbalance themselves and often rub.
After going back and fourth for the last month I decided to pull the trigger on some T4V4’s to replace the Radic Kaha’s that I’ve been running for the last year. I figured my purchase should trigger some event that causes hope to release the new gravity brake causing me to have buyers remorse over the purchase for not waiting, but giving anyone else the opportunity to grab some discounted T4V4’s or the new brake… your welcome 😂.
Some initial impressions:
Last time I worked on a set of hope brakes was at least 15 years ago, and they always seemed to be shelf queens imo. I know that has changed but I’m happy to see/feel it in person. Pad retraction is pretty damn good, having struggled with mt7 for longer than I should have and coming from Kaha’s that are intolerant of any runout in rotors I’m pretty happy that these have a decent amount while still having short throw. Coming to that, the dead stroke is much much better than I was expecting, not sure if it’s exaggerated or what but with the contact point adjuster wound in for the least free/dead stroke I am measuring 14mm until the lever firms up. That’s actually very close to where I have the free stroke set on my Kaha’s, also adjustable, to maintain reliability. I will say, they have a heavier lever pull than both the Kaha’s and the Dominions, by a fair amount to the latter.
I pulled my Trickstuff pads from my Kaha’s to have a better idea of how they stop, with everything else being equal, tbh I feel like there is no difference in power other than I builds slower, more modulation, but required more lever throw to get there.
I was able to get the calipers centered on the rotors and have nearly equal piston extension front and rear. The bleed process brought back memories but I used a miniature hose clamp to secure the hose to the barb at the caliper which made it a lot easier to pull a vacuum and dislodge any bubbles in the caliper before I pulled the diaphragm and performed a push bleed from the caliper. The front brake was pretty poorly bled from the factory, the rear was perfect (based on lever feel prior to cutting the hoses) can’t wait to put some laps on them and hoping, pun intended, they solve my weird reliability issue that comes and goes with the Kaha’s…
Im curious to know how you like them with the power pads, they’ve been my favourite pads on every other brake I’ve used.
The nerd in me would really love to match a Kahas lever to the v4 calipers to have an even better feel with even lighter pull 🤔 and that would also increase the power even further
Same here, but the levers have been the pain point for me, the seals have started to drag so much that the MC piston spring wont return the mc piston and lever all the way. Granted it only happens after the bike has sat for a few hours and you can pump them quickly to get the seal to soften up and start moving again but its a pain in the a$$. If I can get them to replace the seals under warranty and fix the issue, id be happy to try it out! Until then they will be collecting dust on the bench.
that issue of slow return mc piston is why i'm getting mc seals and pistons from hope as a warranty 😅
from val di sole pits, spotted on jackson's bike
That's a chonky caliper just like the Mavens. Saints are well regarded here in the mountains so I bet these will sell pretty well. They will probably use LV fluid since the XTR levers are being used. Those two openings on top should be easy to cover so mud doesn't get in.
That orange warning sticker is definitely worth 0.001s of drag during a 3 minute course.
Anyone have hose expansion/burst data?
Hayes hose seems like an outlier—-wondering if any anecdotal experiences regarding it and firmness vs standard bh90/goodridge 5mm braided, etc
Trickstuff on their website have pressure ratings for their Goodrige braided hose and for their Beta Kevlar hose
Quite significant difference
Then you’ve got Hope claiming nothing changes and I believe is bullshit
It might make a difference when you’re applying like 80-100% brake.
It won’t make any difference when you’re lightly applying the brake, like 0-10%. You have to expand the hose before the braid can apply any force to it. It’s not like it’s pretensioned around the inner hose.
I do believe it makes brake feel different, sharper more defined bite.
That’s why pros use stiffer hoses on trp, stock ones are soft, you can feel them and see them moving while just using the lever.
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