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https://www.freakynuts.com/product-tag/front-axle/
They also have the Fox40 and Rux
Thanks everyone. Looks like Freaky Nuts doesn't do Ohlins so that doesn't work for me but still looks like a great solution.
An A.170 with a DC fork is very nice.
Most 15mm axles are hollow aluminum. The easiest solutions to making them stiffer is to not hollow them out, and/or to make them from steel or titanium. I've not done the calculations (@Primoz, didn't you do that?), but I imagine it could be as stiff as thin walled aluminum 20mm axles.
If you look at huck to flat videos it seems that the worst of the flex is at or around the crown. The most productive solution for single crown forks might be to return to 100mm OLD - a 10% narrower CSU would be 10% stiffer.
Something new on the way from EXT?
P.S I have a 190mm air spring for a fox 40 available for anyone looking to lower a set for their park / enduro setups 🙂 drop me a message if you’re interested
Yeah, it was included (had to even check it as I didn't remember).
https://www.vitalmtb.com/forums/The-Hub,2/Are-Upside-Down-forks-really-flexy,11099?page=0
15 and 20 mm axles with thicknesses of 1, 2, 2,5, 3 and 4 mm were compared. Thickness and diameter have an effect on torsion with USD forks, but still somewhat minor (roughly 10 % going from 10 to 20 mm with the same thickness).
While clamping width was tested I think the main difference was the stiffness of the 'dropout' as the whole assembly was bonded together. Ideally a system with realistic clearances would be simulated (and tested) to show real world differences as it will not be the same, even with pinchbolts clamping down on the axle.
FWIW, old 20 mm Maxles were interesting as they had expanding cones on both sides wedging themselves into the dropouts of the fork AND a step in the axle pressing the hub towards the NDS dropout (aligning the rotor every time) and possibly allowing some float in the dropout for the lower to run smoother. Come to think of it, do modern forks have more clearance in the bushings to offset this issue? @Dave_Camp any insights on this one?
Anyone know what brake lever Troy is using on his Mavens?
I forgot to mention that 100mm OLD would also be 10% stiffer for the axle and for the arch.
I remember various fork and component engineers shaking their heads in disbelief when the industry decided to settle on 15x110 rather than 15x100. Spoke triangulation has always been better for front wheels than rear, wheel manufacturers seem to chase front wheel compliance.
Looks like Freedom Coast. In another shot I saw the little flag etching near the pivot.
That's correct, those are freedom coast. I have those on one bike and a set of oak components on another. I prefer the oak components.
You put either of them on Mavens? I know the PB review of both on TRPs preferred Oaks as well. I was curious if they change the Maven feel at all other than adding texture. I don't have any issue with the stock Maven levers, but the Oaks look pretty.
How do the Oaks compare to the Freedoms in shape? Are the Oaks any closer to the bars, or basically the same? Have the Freedoms but would be interested in Oaks if they sit closer to the bars.
I wasn't too sure where to post this so feel free to delete or move accordingly if it's in the wrong thread. Troy Brosnan's mechanic seems to be double taping the rim. Once with the Dt-Swiss rim tape and then a layer of Gorilla Tape over the top?
What could the reasons be behind this? It looks like the DT tape is going from edge to edge so the Gorilla wouldn't be offering any additional adhesive. Is it a tape thickness thing? Never seen anyone double tape like that before.
One reason might be to prevent flats. I've only had 2 flats in the past year and a half, but both were from breaking a spoke, which then pushed back through the hole in the DTSwiss rim and punctured the rim tape. Regular rim tape (stans, mucoff, etc) isn't good against spoke impacts, but it doesn't leave residue when you peel it off like Gorilla tape. If combined, you get no residue, but also better resistance against spoke punctures.
I would think it would be to get the tire tighter on the wheel.
@AndehM & @FaahkEet answers to your question in the brake thread. https://www.vitalmtb.com/forums/hub/nerding-out-brakes-shall-we-not-ano…
I'm not sure that is correct when talking about the torsional stiffness because for a given handle bar / wheel torque spacing the fork legs further apart will reduce the force acting on them, causing a smaller deflection of each leg and a lower rotation angle of the wheel relative to the bars. This is obviously simplified but in general spacing fixings further apart improves stiffness, provided the hub and axle are stiff enough.
Cheaper rear shock from EXT
Vorsprung are working on a 38/Zeb damper!
I put Oak levers on my Maven's last week and rode them over the weekend. I originally planned to buy the Freedom Coast levers because one of the owners there/at Better Bolts has always been overly nice to me, but I got these for a good price at my job so I can't tell you the differences between the brands. I ride gloveless as often as possible so I bought the Oak's mainly because of the dimples on the lever only to quickly feel like they're almost a little too abrasive for my bare fingers. It was cold out so I wore gloves all day, but really appreciated the hooks at the ends of the levers being pronounced so your fingers are locked when braking and they don't slip at all. And they look good.
The new Grip X2 damper is already superb. I’m curious how they could improve on it.
Maybe bring the shock retune tech from the Telum over to a drop in fork cartridge?
Looks like Jackson is using a remote pull off system on his goggles which he can activate with a button on his handlebars
Goggles: https://youtu.be/nYpi-M6LMp8?t=4
Remote: https://youtu.be/nYpi-M6LMp8?t=1449
here he comes...
This is pretty amazing news, where did you hear this from?
Somebody asked about fork dampers on Vorsprung's IG last week, and they said "sure", or words to that effect. I emailed Vorsprung asking if they could make a 38 damper, and they replied that Steve has designs started, there is no guaranteed timeline, but that they can likely make one that's cost competitive vs the GRIP X2 and Charger 3.1 dampers.
When I regained consciousness, I posted about it here.
What I heard as well.
From what I was told originally, he was interested in developing a complete fork. Steve said that the newer chassis out there are good enough to not make it worth their time to worry about a full package. It was about a year ago that he told me the fork cart was coming after the Tellum release, I've been patiently waiting ever since. I personally am not impressed with the charger 3 or the X2. I like my MRP V1 lift over both, and like my Ohlins TTX in the 38M2 over everything else.
I hope they've considered total conversion sticker kits too. For those forks that no longer contain any OEM parts.
I'm keen to see how this does against the Lift when it's available. Having just worked out where to get one of those locally, now I suppose I'm going to wait a little longer!
The bushings are sized to give minimum friction without having to worry about customers complaining about bushing play. Obviously misalignment from an under or oversized hub width is going to cause more friction, but the tolerances on the bushings are TINY and the basic rule is make the clearance as big as possible without crossing into the warranty loose bushing danger zone.
I think floating axles are a small performance benefit, but I also enjoy the simplicity of the regular 15mm axle when I load a bike into the back of my car.
What are your thoughts on suspension shops “sizing” bushings.
I’ve heard some people claim it’s mandatory if you want the fork to work right and I’ve heard others claim that it just makes your fork sloppy and loose.