Hey All, this is borderline brake tech... more of a brake question then anything.For all the TRP DHR Evo users (The previous generation, not the new...
Hey All, this is borderline brake tech... more of a brake question then anything.
For all the TRP DHR Evo users (The previous generation, not the new Evo X) what are you doing for dropper post remote mounting? I previously had a wt light action remote, with a discrete 22mm clamp that played ok with the dhr evo levers. This last weekend, I went to move a wt remote pro over to the bike with the DHR Evo's and there is virtually no way to get them to play together ergonomically. I emailed WT components and they pointed out that while TRP claims that their levers are I Spec-II compatible, that TRP altered their version of I-spec and not directly compatible with WT (and sounds like most other) ispec clamp designs.
So... what dropper levers are people using with this brakes, and how do you have them mounted?
Most I-Spec II adapter have a lip at the end, I just cut that lip and it worked well for the time I had my set...
Most I-Spec II adapter have a lip at the end, I just cut that lip and it worked well for the time I had my set of DHR Evo and wolftooth dropper / sram shifter.
Thanks for the reply. Not to be overly needy about this... but did that setup work with the remote pro? the remote pro has a few extra lateral bolt hole/mounting options that seemingly make the integration with the trp brakes a pita... at least for 22mm clamps.
If this solution does work for the remote pro, I could kiss you.
I'm a bit disappointed in the life of the Galfer "ebike" (purple) pads. After 2 months on the rear of my midpower ebike, they were already down to 3.3mm thickness (SRAM says replace Maven pads at 3.0; fresh pads seem to vary a bit between 3.9-4.0mm). And that was during the offseason so in that time there were definitely weeks where I rode less than I do in the summer because it was too rainy, or I was out skiing. Feel-wise, they were somewhere in between SRAM black & copper, but lasted much less than either. I know the Galfer green pads are super short lived, but I would have expected their "ebike" pads to be designed for more use.
I might give the MTX golds a try. I've used them years ago with Codes and liked them. Or just stick with SRAM metallics - they're not noisy like the old Code/Guide ones, and last a long time.
You don't even need to use an orbital sander. I just take a sheet of 150 grit, spin the wheel on the frame and hold the...
You don't even need to use an orbital sander. I just take a sheet of 150 grit, spin the wheel on the frame and hold the sandpaper against the rotor one side at a time. You don't need much pressure or time - just trying to clean off the surface deposit of pad compound.
Yeah, but an orbital sander is way easier in my opinion. Granted you might scuff up some of the pant/markings off the brake surface itself, but...
Yeah, but an orbital sander is way easier in my opinion. Granted you might scuff up some of the pant/markings off the brake surface itself, but it was a price I was willing to pay.
I've tried the sandpaper to rotor on the bike for years and never got it to work.
Yeah the orbital sander seems like a good solution to me - I'll give that a go some time! There are simimlar methods with a mill or drill press which are much more involved to set up so I think thats a good middle ground. Just between you fingers would only have a superficial effect - you ideally want to reset the surface and remove any old material deposits or grooves worn by the old pads.
Also how do people go with cleaning oil contaminated pads and rotors? Isopropyl alcohol is often recommended but its actually not very good at dissolving mineral oil. Acetone is much better (following by a rinse with IPA) for that purpose if you are trying to revive a set of brakes.
Yeah the orbital sander seems like a good solution to me - I'll give that a go some time! There are simimlar methods with a mill...
Yeah the orbital sander seems like a good solution to me - I'll give that a go some time! There are simimlar methods with a mill or drill press which are much more involved to set up so I think thats a good middle ground. Just between you fingers would only have a superficial effect - you ideally want to reset the surface and remove any old material deposits or grooves worn by the old pads.
Also how do people go with cleaning oil contaminated pads and rotors? Isopropyl alcohol is often recommended but its actually not very good at dissolving mineral oil. Acetone is much better (following by a rinse with IPA) for that purpose if you are trying to revive a set of brakes.
This is a great follow up question, and I was wondering the same thing. My go-to for old pads is to spray with isopropyl, a little scuff with 100 grit sandpaper, and then spray again with isopropyl, and that's typically worked okay-ish. For pads and/or that I know are contaminated, I've put those in the oven on broil to boil the oil out of them, which I've heard mixed things about.
Would love to hear other people's tips for reviving old pads that still have lots of material but for whatever reason are still not getting it done in the stopping department.
I've never been able to resuscitate pads contaminated by mineral oil. If that stuff gets down into the pad compound, it's there to stay. No combination of iso, brake cleaner, fire, and sanding has been able to save them when I've tried. With DOT or general trail/road gunk, a couple rounds of iso & sanding usually works. If the contamination caused the pad to get particularly deeply glazed, then I've good success with doing a quick pass on the rotor with a Dremel tool to really roughen up the surface and help reset the pad.
Thanks for the reply. Not to be overly needy about this... but did that setup work with the remote pro? the remote pro has a few...
Thanks for the reply. Not to be overly needy about this... but did that setup work with the remote pro? the remote pro has a few extra lateral bolt hole/mounting options that seemingly make the integration with the trp brakes a pita... at least for 22mm clamps.
If this solution does work for the remote pro, I could kiss you.
Can't help you as I was running that DHR setup before the remote pro was launched.
Edit: I checked Wolftooth website to see how the remote pro I-Spec II adapter is and I think just cutting the outside lip should still work. Maybe the position closest to the clamp might not work but the middle and furthest out should still work.
You don't even need to use an orbital sander. I just take a sheet of 150 grit, spin the wheel on the frame and hold the...
You don't even need to use an orbital sander. I just take a sheet of 150 grit, spin the wheel on the frame and hold the sandpaper against the rotor one side at a time. You don't need much pressure or time - just trying to clean off the surface deposit of pad compound.
Yeah, but an orbital sander is way easier in my opinion. Granted you might scuff up some of the pant/markings off the brake surface itself, but...
Yeah, but an orbital sander is way easier in my opinion. Granted you might scuff up some of the pant/markings off the brake surface itself, but it was a price I was willing to pay.
I've tried the sandpaper to rotor on the bike for years and never got it to work.
Yeah the orbital sander seems like a good solution to me - I'll give that a go some time! There are simimlar methods with a mill...
Yeah the orbital sander seems like a good solution to me - I'll give that a go some time! There are simimlar methods with a mill or drill press which are much more involved to set up so I think thats a good middle ground. Just between you fingers would only have a superficial effect - you ideally want to reset the surface and remove any old material deposits or grooves worn by the old pads.
Also how do people go with cleaning oil contaminated pads and rotors? Isopropyl alcohol is often recommended but its actually not very good at dissolving mineral oil. Acetone is much better (following by a rinse with IPA) for that purpose if you are trying to revive a set of brakes.
Got some Maven's and they're my first set of mineral oil brakes in a long, long time. Holy crap that stuff is hard to get off anything. As far as wiping down the master cylinder, bars, etc. and cleaning off tools, would you use acetone followed by IPA or would you be worried about the finish to components and bars?
And thanks for all the great info you offer up in these forums.
Yeah, but an orbital sander is way easier in my opinion. Granted you might scuff up some of the pant/markings off the brake surface itself, but...
Yeah, but an orbital sander is way easier in my opinion. Granted you might scuff up some of the pant/markings off the brake surface itself, but it was a price I was willing to pay.
I've tried the sandpaper to rotor on the bike for years and never got it to work.
Yeah the orbital sander seems like a good solution to me - I'll give that a go some time! There are simimlar methods with a mill...
Yeah the orbital sander seems like a good solution to me - I'll give that a go some time! There are simimlar methods with a mill or drill press which are much more involved to set up so I think thats a good middle ground. Just between you fingers would only have a superficial effect - you ideally want to reset the surface and remove any old material deposits or grooves worn by the old pads.
Also how do people go with cleaning oil contaminated pads and rotors? Isopropyl alcohol is often recommended but its actually not very good at dissolving mineral oil. Acetone is much better (following by a rinse with IPA) for that purpose if you are trying to revive a set of brakes.
Got some Maven's and they're my first set of mineral oil brakes in a long, long time. Holy crap that stuff is hard to get off...
Got some Maven's and they're my first set of mineral oil brakes in a long, long time. Holy crap that stuff is hard to get off anything. As far as wiping down the master cylinder, bars, etc. and cleaning off tools, would you use acetone followed by IPA or would you be worried about the finish to components and bars?
And thanks for all the great info you offer up in these forums.
No worries! Yeah mineral oi is tough to fully clean up - the thin viscositiy allows it to hide in all the gaps of the parts too. I probably wouldn't wipe down the cockpit with acetone - it can really destroy paintwork and some plastics and rubber so you do have to be careful with it. For mineral brakes (and suspension) I normally just use bike wash or simple green to clean the exterior after a job, then rinse with IPA to get any degreaser residue off later if needed
Yeah the orbital sander seems like a good solution to me - I'll give that a go some time! There are simimlar methods with a mill...
Yeah the orbital sander seems like a good solution to me - I'll give that a go some time! There are simimlar methods with a mill or drill press which are much more involved to set up so I think thats a good middle ground. Just between you fingers would only have a superficial effect - you ideally want to reset the surface and remove any old material deposits or grooves worn by the old pads.
Also how do people go with cleaning oil contaminated pads and rotors? Isopropyl alcohol is often recommended but its actually not very good at dissolving mineral oil. Acetone is much better (following by a rinse with IPA) for that purpose if you are trying to revive a set of brakes.
Does the orbital take off too much surface? I have a plan to try some HS2 rotors I got with DHR EVOs. So they’re already technically a little too thin. I don’t know the providence of the rotors so was thinking I’d try the orbital technique but don’t want to take off enough surface to materially change the overall rotor thickness.
I’ve never been able to bring back contaminated pads and thought the whole idea was a myth but maybe that’s because it was always mineral oil…
In theory it can but it will be a LOT of work and you'll need to be sitting there for a long time. If you just sit at one spot and apply a lot of pressure it can possible develop a low spot. The idea is to keep moving, use medium to light pressure until your braking surface looks evenly scuffed up. You'll be fine.
Yeah the orbital sander seems like a good solution to me - I'll give that a go some time! There are simimlar methods with a mill...
Yeah the orbital sander seems like a good solution to me - I'll give that a go some time! There are simimlar methods with a mill or drill press which are much more involved to set up so I think thats a good middle ground. Just between you fingers would only have a superficial effect - you ideally want to reset the surface and remove any old material deposits or grooves worn by the old pads.
Also how do people go with cleaning oil contaminated pads and rotors? Isopropyl alcohol is often recommended but its actually not very good at dissolving mineral oil. Acetone is much better (following by a rinse with IPA) for that purpose if you are trying to revive a set of brakes.
Does the orbital take off too much surface? I have a plan to try some HS2 rotors I got with DHR EVOs. So they’re already technically...
Does the orbital take off too much surface? I have a plan to try some HS2 rotors I got with DHR EVOs. So they’re already technically a little too thin. I don’t know the providence of the rotors so was thinking I’d try the orbital technique but don’t want to take off enough surface to materially change the overall rotor thickness.
I’ve never been able to bring back contaminated pads and thought the whole idea was a myth but maybe that’s because it was always mineral oil…
like @sprungmass said if you you light pressure and keep moving it should be fine - it takes a while to remove material from steel. If it was easy to remove too much they would be cooked in a second on the trail as well
Thinking of Magura brakes since the new Gustavs are available aftermarket. Do we actually know what the master cylinders are made out of? We know that they're supposed to be carbon fiber reenforced polymer, carbotecture, but do we know how much reinforcement they have? They always seem incredibly weak to me for a fiber reinforced polymer, so they have to have a pretty low amount of reinforcement in them.
I don't think that making the levers out of reinforced polymer is a bad idea. My glocks frame is fiberglass reinforced polymer and I have no worries that it will break on me if it takes any sort of impact, but I have broken magura levers in a crash before.
If I'm not mistaken their masters are injected plastic strengthened with fibres (I think carbon in their case). Adding glass, carbon or kevlar fibres is normal to increase the strength of the injection molded part, but it is just improved, it's not suddenly a composite part. The fibres are usually just a few mm long so the strength is somewhat limited.
Thinking of Magura brakes since the new Gustavs are available aftermarket. Do we actually know what the master cylinders are made out of? We know that...
Thinking of Magura brakes since the new Gustavs are available aftermarket. Do we actually know what the master cylinders are made out of? We know that they're supposed to be carbon fiber reenforced polymer, carbotecture, but do we know how much reinforcement they have? They always seem incredibly weak to me for a fiber reinforced polymer, so they have to have a pretty low amount of reinforcement in them.
I don't think that making the levers out of reinforced polymer is a bad idea. My glocks frame is fiberglass reinforced polymer and I have no worries that it will break on me if it takes any sort of impact, but I have broken magura levers in a crash before.
it's the same as the ones you've broken already, given the price and power same as the mt7 i'd get something else
If I'm not mistaken their masters are injected plastic strengthened with fibres (I think carbon in their case). Adding glass, carbon or kevlar fibres is normal...
If I'm not mistaken their masters are injected plastic strengthened with fibres (I think carbon in their case). Adding glass, carbon or kevlar fibres is normal to increase the strength of the injection molded part, but it is just improved, it's not suddenly a composite part. The fibres are usually just a few mm long so the strength is somewhat limited.
Technically it is a composite material. It’s a composite of the fiber and the plastic.
It’s just a boring composite material not a sexy one.
True, technically. But to make it easy we call composites woven ply assembled parts and plastic parts all the parts that include fibres in the bulk plastic. Marketing doesn't care about technicalities though.
If I'm not mistaken their masters are injected plastic strengthened with fibres (I think carbon in their case). Adding glass, carbon or kevlar fibres is normal...
If I'm not mistaken their masters are injected plastic strengthened with fibres (I think carbon in their case). Adding glass, carbon or kevlar fibres is normal to increase the strength of the injection molded part, but it is just improved, it's not suddenly a composite part. The fibres are usually just a few mm long so the strength is somewhat limited.
Yeah, it's just weird because I really feel like they could make the parts a lot stronger than they do with out sacrificing much weight.
The comparison to gun plastics is a great one though. They're strong as. A Steyr AUG is plastic but so durable. My friend broke 2 magura cylinders from tree hits that were just normal bails/crashes nothing super crazy. Moved to shigura's after and eventually ditched magura entirely.
The comparison to gun plastics is a great one though. They're strong as. A Steyr AUG is plastic but so durable. My friend broke 2 magura...
The comparison to gun plastics is a great one though. They're strong as. A Steyr AUG is plastic but so durable. My friend broke 2 magura cylinders from tree hits that were just normal bails/crashes nothing super crazy. Moved to shigura's after and eventually ditched magura entirely.
Yeah, the amount of just random crap that tends to happen to Maguras makes me never want to touch them again with a 10ft pole. I’ve had multiple master cylinder failures. Brakes randomly going to bar halfway through the ride, and the never ending fight to stop them from rubbing made it so that they will not find a place on my bikes going forward. I ran them when MT5/7 was one of the stronger brakes on the market, but now I’ve moved to mineral oil sram (which I must say does feel kinda dirty, but at least they don’t require a PHD to bleed). Looking forward to swapping my last set of Maguras with their new “XC/Trail” brake when sram comes out with them.
Also, the only good pads Magura makes is their Race compound, and it’s like $40-$60 USD for a set which is absurd.
Yeah, the amount of just random crap that tends to happen to Maguras makes me never want to touch them again with a 10ft pole. I’ve...
Yeah, the amount of just random crap that tends to happen to Maguras makes me never want to touch them again with a 10ft pole. I’ve had multiple master cylinder failures. Brakes randomly going to bar halfway through the ride, and the never ending fight to stop them from rubbing made it so that they will not find a place on my bikes going forward. I ran them when MT5/7 was one of the stronger brakes on the market, but now I’ve moved to mineral oil sram (which I must say does feel kinda dirty, but at least they don’t require a PHD to bleed). Looking forward to swapping my last set of Maguras with their new “XC/Trail” brake when sram comes out with them.
Also, the only good pads Magura makes is their Race compound, and it’s like $40-$60 USD for a set which is absurd.
to be fair i believe mavens are harder to bleed than maguras given the crappy oil they use, the royal blood is so much better, the maxima seems to be sparkling so much air it holds.
Also race pads retail for 50NZD, there's no way they're more expensive in the us
to be fair i believe mavens are harder to bleed than maguras given the crappy oil they use, the royal blood is so much better, the...
to be fair i believe mavens are harder to bleed than maguras given the crappy oil they use, the royal blood is so much better, the maxima seems to be sparkling so much air it holds.
Also race pads retail for 50NZD, there's no way they're more expensive in the us
Yep, 8R are only £25 in the UK.. currently on sale at £19.
Yeah, the amount of just random crap that tends to happen to Maguras makes me never want to touch them again with a 10ft pole. I’ve...
Yeah, the amount of just random crap that tends to happen to Maguras makes me never want to touch them again with a 10ft pole. I’ve had multiple master cylinder failures. Brakes randomly going to bar halfway through the ride, and the never ending fight to stop them from rubbing made it so that they will not find a place on my bikes going forward. I ran them when MT5/7 was one of the stronger brakes on the market, but now I’ve moved to mineral oil sram (which I must say does feel kinda dirty, but at least they don’t require a PHD to bleed). Looking forward to swapping my last set of Maguras with their new “XC/Trail” brake when sram comes out with them.
Also, the only good pads Magura makes is their Race compound, and it’s like $40-$60 USD for a set which is absurd.
to be fair i believe mavens are harder to bleed than maguras given the crappy oil they use, the royal blood is so much better, the...
to be fair i believe mavens are harder to bleed than maguras given the crappy oil they use, the royal blood is so much better, the maxima seems to be sparkling so much air it holds.
Also race pads retail for 50NZD, there's no way they're more expensive in the us
Current Magura mt5/7 race pad cost for one set of pads on Jenson screenshotted below. Sure you can find them cheeper online elsewhere, but if the MSRP is $60 USD(!) a pad then that's what they go for at things like local bike shops and such. And yeah you could get them cheeper online, but that doesn't always work in the "heat of the moment" if you're on a big trip or need them yesterday.
As for bleeding Magura, just say no. Their levers require so much damn gymnastics to get all the air out of, and woe to you if need to swap pads without a brake bleeding kit on hand because you'll probably blow the master cylinder or accidentally get air into the lever. I know there are people who can make them work, but with my tiny monkey brain and skills I much rather have bleed fittings with screw on threads then the bargain basement syringes you get in a Magura bleed kit.
And I've been a hater of SRAM dot brakes for a long time, but they have really changed my mind with the mavens as they have tended to hold a bleed better than any brake I've used. Also, every brake on the planet should have the "bleeding edge" connector on the caliper, it's just that good.
I see Maguras being the primary brake for most guys ridiing trials. I'm definitely generalizing but for a group that needs powerful brakes they seem to gravitate to them. Or is it more technique? I know little about trials riding skills.
Yeah, the amount of just random crap that tends to happen to Maguras makes me never want to touch them again with a 10ft pole. I’ve...
Yeah, the amount of just random crap that tends to happen to Maguras makes me never want to touch them again with a 10ft pole. I’ve had multiple master cylinder failures. Brakes randomly going to bar halfway through the ride, and the never ending fight to stop them from rubbing made it so that they will not find a place on my bikes going forward. I ran them when MT5/7 was one of the stronger brakes on the market, but now I’ve moved to mineral oil sram (which I must say does feel kinda dirty, but at least they don’t require a PHD to bleed). Looking forward to swapping my last set of Maguras with their new “XC/Trail” brake when sram comes out with them.
Also, the only good pads Magura makes is their Race compound, and it’s like $40-$60 USD for a set which is absurd.
to be fair i believe mavens are harder to bleed than maguras given the crappy oil they use, the royal blood is so much better, the...
to be fair i believe mavens are harder to bleed than maguras given the crappy oil they use, the royal blood is so much better, the maxima seems to be sparkling so much air it holds.
Also race pads retail for 50NZD, there's no way they're more expensive in the us
Current Magura mt5/7 race pad cost for one set of pads on Jenson screenshotted below. Sure you can find them cheeper online elsewhere, but if the...
Current Magura mt5/7 race pad cost for one set of pads on Jenson screenshotted below. Sure you can find them cheeper online elsewhere, but if the MSRP is $60 USD(!) a pad then that's what they go for at things like local bike shops and such. And yeah you could get them cheeper online, but that doesn't always work in the "heat of the moment" if you're on a big trip or need them yesterday.
As for bleeding Magura, just say no. Their levers require so much damn gymnastics to get all the air out of, and woe to you if need to swap pads without a brake bleeding kit on hand because you'll probably blow the master cylinder or accidentally get air into the lever. I know there are people who can make them work, but with my tiny monkey brain and skills I much rather have bleed fittings with screw on threads then the bargain basement syringes you get in a Magura bleed kit.
And I've been a hater of SRAM dot brakes for a long time, but they have really changed my mind with the mavens as they have tended to hold a bleed better than any brake I've used. Also, every brake on the planet should have the "bleeding edge" connector on the caliper, it's just that good.
I see Maguras being the primary brake for most guys ridiing trials. I'm definitely generalizing but for a group that needs powerful brakes they seem to...
I see Maguras being the primary brake for most guys ridiing trials. I'm definitely generalizing but for a group that needs powerful brakes they seem to gravitate to them. Or is it more technique? I know little about trials riding skills.
Do they ever go faster than 2MPH? Very fine control of wheel slip is likely the key ingredient here, not strength or performance under duress.
to be fair i believe mavens are harder to bleed than maguras given the crappy oil they use, the royal blood is so much better, the...
to be fair i believe mavens are harder to bleed than maguras given the crappy oil they use, the royal blood is so much better, the maxima seems to be sparkling so much air it holds.
Also race pads retail for 50NZD, there's no way they're more expensive in the us
Current Magura mt5/7 race pad cost for one set of pads on Jenson screenshotted below. Sure you can find them cheeper online elsewhere, but if the...
Current Magura mt5/7 race pad cost for one set of pads on Jenson screenshotted below. Sure you can find them cheeper online elsewhere, but if the MSRP is $60 USD(!) a pad then that's what they go for at things like local bike shops and such. And yeah you could get them cheeper online, but that doesn't always work in the "heat of the moment" if you're on a big trip or need them yesterday.
As for bleeding Magura, just say no. Their levers require so much damn gymnastics to get all the air out of, and woe to you if need to swap pads without a brake bleeding kit on hand because you'll probably blow the master cylinder or accidentally get air into the lever. I know there are people who can make them work, but with my tiny monkey brain and skills I much rather have bleed fittings with screw on threads then the bargain basement syringes you get in a Magura bleed kit.
And I've been a hater of SRAM dot brakes for a long time, but they have really changed my mind with the mavens as they have tended to hold a bleed better than any brake I've used. Also, every brake on the planet should have the "bleeding edge" connector on the caliper, it's just that good.
I get that. I'll just quote the relevant information again for those who missed it:
"Sure you can find them cheeper online elsewhere, but if the MSRP is $60 USD(!) a pad then that's what they go for at things like local bike shops and such. And yeah you could get them cheeper online, but that doesn't always work in the "heat of the moment" if you're on a big trip or need them yesterday." -- DServy
I end up on the road to bike a lot, and global part availability is paramount to me. Being able to roll into any bike shop and get a part to at least make the bike "function" again is pretty damn nice to have when you're halfway through a 5 week road trip.
Say what you will about the big players in the space, that type of distribution is handy.
Anyone try MTX's with their Mavens after metallic and organic? How do they compare?
Thanks for the reply. Not to be overly needy about this... but did that setup work with the remote pro? the remote pro has a few extra lateral bolt hole/mounting options that seemingly make the integration with the trp brakes a pita... at least for 22mm clamps.
If this solution does work for the remote pro, I could kiss you.
I'm a bit disappointed in the life of the Galfer "ebike" (purple) pads. After 2 months on the rear of my midpower ebike, they were already down to 3.3mm thickness (SRAM says replace Maven pads at 3.0; fresh pads seem to vary a bit between 3.9-4.0mm). And that was during the offseason so in that time there were definitely weeks where I rode less than I do in the summer because it was too rainy, or I was out skiing. Feel-wise, they were somewhere in between SRAM black & copper, but lasted much less than either. I know the Galfer green pads are super short lived, but I would have expected their "ebike" pads to be designed for more use.
I might give the MTX golds a try. I've used them years ago with Codes and liked them. Or just stick with SRAM metallics - they're not noisy like the old Code/Guide ones, and last a long time.
Yeah the orbital sander seems like a good solution to me - I'll give that a go some time! There are simimlar methods with a mill or drill press which are much more involved to set up so I think thats a good middle ground. Just between you fingers would only have a superficial effect - you ideally want to reset the surface and remove any old material deposits or grooves worn by the old pads.
Also how do people go with cleaning oil contaminated pads and rotors? Isopropyl alcohol is often recommended but its actually not very good at dissolving mineral oil. Acetone is much better (following by a rinse with IPA) for that purpose if you are trying to revive a set of brakes.
This is a great follow up question, and I was wondering the same thing. My go-to for old pads is to spray with isopropyl, a little scuff with 100 grit sandpaper, and then spray again with isopropyl, and that's typically worked okay-ish. For pads and/or that I know are contaminated, I've put those in the oven on broil to boil the oil out of them, which I've heard mixed things about.
Would love to hear other people's tips for reviving old pads that still have lots of material but for whatever reason are still not getting it done in the stopping department.
I've never been able to resuscitate pads contaminated by mineral oil. If that stuff gets down into the pad compound, it's there to stay. No combination of iso, brake cleaner, fire, and sanding has been able to save them when I've tried. With DOT or general trail/road gunk, a couple rounds of iso & sanding usually works. If the contamination caused the pad to get particularly deeply glazed, then I've good success with doing a quick pass on the rotor with a Dremel tool to really roughen up the surface and help reset the pad.
Can't help you as I was running that DHR setup before the remote pro was launched.
Edit: I checked Wolftooth website to see how the remote pro I-Spec II adapter is and I think just cutting the outside lip should still work. Maybe the position closest to the clamp might not work but the middle and furthest out should still work.
Got some Maven's and they're my first set of mineral oil brakes in a long, long time. Holy crap that stuff is hard to get off anything. As far as wiping down the master cylinder, bars, etc. and cleaning off tools, would you use acetone followed by IPA or would you be worried about the finish to components and bars?
And thanks for all the great info you offer up in these forums.
No worries! Yeah mineral oi is tough to fully clean up - the thin viscositiy allows it to hide in all the gaps of the parts too. I probably wouldn't wipe down the cockpit with acetone - it can really destroy paintwork and some plastics and rubber so you do have to be careful with it. For mineral brakes (and suspension) I normally just use bike wash or simple green to clean the exterior after a job, then rinse with IPA to get any degreaser residue off later if needed
God you all need to stop wasting your beers cleaning up brake fluid. IPAs supposed to make the brake jobs more enjoyable.
Does the orbital take off too much surface? I have a plan to try some HS2 rotors I got with DHR EVOs. So they’re already technically a little too thin. I don’t know the providence of the rotors so was thinking I’d try the orbital technique but don’t want to take off enough surface to materially change the overall rotor thickness.
I’ve never been able to bring back contaminated pads and thought the whole idea was a myth but maybe that’s because it was always mineral oil…
In theory it can but it will be a LOT of work and you'll need to be sitting there for a long time. If you just sit at one spot and apply a lot of pressure it can possible develop a low spot. The idea is to keep moving, use medium to light pressure until your braking surface looks evenly scuffed up. You'll be fine.
like @sprungmass said if you you light pressure and keep moving it should be fine - it takes a while to remove material from steel. If it was easy to remove too much they would be cooked in a second on the trail as well
Thinking of Magura brakes since the new Gustavs are available aftermarket. Do we actually know what the master cylinders are made out of? We know that they're supposed to be carbon fiber reenforced polymer, carbotecture, but do we know how much reinforcement they have? They always seem incredibly weak to me for a fiber reinforced polymer, so they have to have a pretty low amount of reinforcement in them.
I don't think that making the levers out of reinforced polymer is a bad idea. My glocks frame is fiberglass reinforced polymer and I have no worries that it will break on me if it takes any sort of impact, but I have broken magura levers in a crash before.
If I'm not mistaken their masters are injected plastic strengthened with fibres (I think carbon in their case). Adding glass, carbon or kevlar fibres is normal to increase the strength of the injection molded part, but it is just improved, it's not suddenly a composite part. The fibres are usually just a few mm long so the strength is somewhat limited.
it's the same as the ones you've broken already, given the price and power same as the mt7 i'd get something else
Technically it is a composite material. It’s a composite of the fiber and the plastic.
It’s just a boring composite material not a sexy one.
True, technically. But to make it easy we call composites woven ply assembled parts and plastic parts all the parts that include fibres in the bulk plastic. Marketing doesn't care about technicalities though.
Yeah, it's just weird because I really feel like they could make the parts a lot stronger than they do with out sacrificing much weight.
The comparison to gun plastics is a great one though. They're strong as. A Steyr AUG is plastic but so durable. My friend broke 2 magura cylinders from tree hits that were just normal bails/crashes nothing super crazy. Moved to shigura's after and eventually ditched magura entirely.
Yeah, the amount of just random crap that tends to happen to Maguras makes me never want to touch them again with a 10ft pole. I’ve had multiple master cylinder failures. Brakes randomly going to bar halfway through the ride, and the never ending fight to stop them from rubbing made it so that they will not find a place on my bikes going forward. I ran them when MT5/7 was one of the stronger brakes on the market, but now I’ve moved to mineral oil sram (which I must say does feel kinda dirty, but at least they don’t require a PHD to bleed). Looking forward to swapping my last set of Maguras with their new “XC/Trail” brake when sram comes out with them.
Also, the only good pads Magura makes is their Race compound, and it’s like $40-$60 USD for a set which is absurd.
to be fair i believe mavens are harder to bleed than maguras given the crappy oil they use, the royal blood is so much better, the maxima seems to be sparkling so much air it holds.
Also race pads retail for 50NZD, there's no way they're more expensive in the us
Yep, 8R are only £25 in the UK.. currently on sale at £19.
Current Magura mt5/7 race pad cost for one set of pads on Jenson screenshotted below. Sure you can find them cheeper online elsewhere, but if the MSRP is $60 USD(!) a pad then that's what they go for at things like local bike shops and such. And yeah you could get them cheeper online, but that doesn't always work in the "heat of the moment" if you're on a big trip or need them yesterday.
As for bleeding Magura, just say no. Their levers require so much damn gymnastics to get all the air out of, and woe to you if need to swap pads without a brake bleeding kit on hand because you'll probably blow the master cylinder or accidentally get air into the lever. I know there are people who can make them work, but with my tiny monkey brain and skills I much rather have bleed fittings with screw on threads then the bargain basement syringes you get in a Magura bleed kit.
And I've been a hater of SRAM dot brakes for a long time, but they have really changed my mind with the mavens as they have tended to hold a bleed better than any brake I've used. Also, every brake on the planet should have the "bleeding edge" connector on the caliper, it's just that good.
I see Maguras being the primary brake for most guys ridiing trials. I'm definitely generalizing but for a group that needs powerful brakes they seem to gravitate to them. Or is it more technique? I know little about trials riding skills.
$25 on Amazon.
Do they ever go faster than 2MPH? Very fine control of wheel slip is likely the key ingredient here, not strength or performance under duress.
I get that. I'll just quote the relevant information again for those who missed it:
"Sure you can find them cheeper online elsewhere, but if the MSRP is $60 USD(!) a pad then that's what they go for at things like local bike shops and such. And yeah you could get them cheeper online, but that doesn't always work in the "heat of the moment" if you're on a big trip or need them yesterday." -- DServy
I end up on the road to bike a lot, and global part availability is paramount to me. Being able to roll into any bike shop and get a part to at least make the bike "function" again is pretty damn nice to have when you're halfway through a 5 week road trip.
Say what you will about the big players in the space, that type of distribution is handy.
Haven't we learned anything about cheap counterfeit bike parts on Amazon yet?
Free returns with Prime for 30 days. Easy enough to figure out in that time frame.
Post a reply to: Nerding out on Brakes shall we? Not another tech deraliment