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Sorry to detail the rumors thread. Back to rumors: hope that new altitude comes out today

I don’t know if I buy this argument, I don’t think the evidence would support your characterization. And just so you know where I’m coming from, I don’t have an e-bike. I do ride my road bike about 15-20 hours per week, mostly all super easy endurance volume that supplements my mountain biking. I do lots of intervals and am generally in such good shape that I won’t ever need to buy an e bike and have no desire to. My thoughts on the issue you’re raising: There’s no way people are getting *less healthy* riding e bikes. Even with...

The other part of the equation is master cylinder piston diameter. The smaller it is the more leverage it has over the pistons in the caliper. Think of it like you had interchangeable dropouts on your bike and you added 100mm to the rear end of your bike, that’s going to increase the leverage on the shock. The lower the amount of fluid moved for the same amount of piston movement/lever movement the more hydraulic leverage the master has. Hayes use a 9mm bore in the dominions (as far as I know) which is why they have very high hydraulic...

You know what, That was a well written, well considered, thoughtful comment. Well done sir, we could all prolly take some pointers from it.

Thanks friend. I guess it was time to make an account after all, haha. To clarify a few things: - Yes, the title is abrasive, but I feel that I’ve justified that opinion in (too much) detail throughout the video. I’m not on YouTube to make money, considering I make less than C$4 RPM after tax. I also never pushed my resume/background in my video. - After I connected the rear brake, I cycled the pistons to probably 50% of what was recommended in the manual to ensure they were moving smoothly, which they were. I noticed minimal difference between...

The notion that it’s ok for MTB brakes to require high input forces because F1 does is pretty ridiculous.

Bigger pistons doesn't equal more power is kinda the answer here. The other part is that sram is mass manufacturing these parts, so theryre designed with a lot more variance in production and therefore heavier, than much much smaller scale high end machining than trickstuff are doing. I honestly think all the big brand brakes are excellent currently, they're just all different. TRP, Hayes, Trickstuff, Magura are all excellent products. With Shimano and sram kinda a step below that quartet, which is what you would expect for a mass manufactured product.

You're likely right, but I'm not sure that's an excuse, especially since he didn't explicitly state his approach was to not follow the setup instructions. At least Vital admitted their error right up front and reviewed a properly set up brake. What if this was a suspension fork? A lot of consumers don't properly set air pressure, compression, rebound, but if I saw a review where the person didn't do any of that and said the fork felt awful, I would LOL that reviewer and their review.

The way he tested these is how 90% of consumers will use them. Grab bike from LBS or online shipping box... go ride without even as much as checking bolts. Most people aren't very mechanically inclined or don't have time/interest to think about this stuff. The question I have is will they eventually "break in" after a handful of hard rides even if the setup process was inevitably skipped (assuming that's the actual issue at hand).

One thing I've been curious about with these, since I haven't gotten a chance to mess with them, is how pad clearance looks. The pistons are quite large and my understanding is the master cylinder piston is at least very similar in size to that of a Code. Assuming the 50% more power thing is correct the math verifies this. That would require one of two things to keep lever throw within check: decreased pad clearance or much lower leverage ratio in the early portion of lever throw in order to quickly advance the pads at first. What I ran...

Perhaps the stiff lever would have remained, we'll never know as he skipped this step in the setup and didn't bother to troubleshoot. Since the manual states the piston massage step is to "improve lever feel" and the review focuses on issues with lever feel, I would say that step in the setup is very important, as other reviewers such as Vital have now pointed out. It's pretty disingenuous to put SRAM on blast to his 280K followers when he didn't take the time to set up the brakes properly - no bleed, no piston massage.

I don't know the person in question, but I can tell you that after 26 years of turning wrenches for a living that neither being an engineer or a good (even great) rider absolutely DOES NOT mean that you know how to work on bikes.

He's not just some random YouTuber. He's a damn good rider and an engineer who's worked in the industry. I don't buy the double rotor thing as being responsible for the lever force. Sounds to me like that's to get all 4 pistons advanced evenly and to condition the piston seals. Hayes told me to do something similar with the pad spacer (insert spacer after installing pads, pull and hold lever for 15+ sec). Having done and not done this, it didn't change the lever force, just the brake power. Unevenly advancing pistons reduces power. The stiff lever pull design...

but, but, but, how can jonny have found a fix for the stiff lever? sram is a big bad advertiser and everyone else is lying about the brakes! #eyeroll

There’s also the incredibly likely chance this random Youtuber is going out of his way to find anything remotely negative about a product that has generally favorable reviews solely to generate clicks.

So does that mean hart actually won’t be racing a nukeproof frame after all?😂

Potato shot of the new Dreadnought in Rhys Verners's latest IG post

I've seen it and it's basically a supernought with less travel (swap drop outs for mullet etc) and some sick paint jobs.

Why would you want anything different? If more front-end stiffness is what you want; a 20mm axle wouldn't really help with that. If they wanted to increase stiffness, they would have needed to go to a keyed axle to really tie the stanchions together. There's no point in just making the axle bigger in diameter. It would achieve nothing. The "axle" isn't really an axle anyways. It bears no radial load. It's a basically just a big draw bolt. Its only job is to clamp the hub into the drop-outs with substantial pressure. A 15mm axle can do that job...

salsa emtb and egravel bikes