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Adjustable noise levels?!?

Looks like Fox is looking to move to 5 hour service intervals.

This does the same thing for less I think? https://www.amazon.com/Smoove-Lube-Luberetta-applicator-Nozzle/dp/B0CYV…

what about applying it drunk the night before a ride, spilling half the lube on the floor then wiping the excess off the chain with a rag which is my current go to method?

Yeah I don't recognize that either. Might be an Ochain-like device, but it looks very "power meter" to me.

Richie usually runs Ochain but this one looks different?

11sp X01 cassette for €250 is simply the best cassette for weight and durability. Add in the fact that the 11speed derailleurs are much shorter and almost never smash into rocks. You just have to accept the 10-42 range life (hint put 30-32 tooth chainring and pedal less down fire roads).

Seconding this. I've run 11sp X01 for the past 6-7 years and it lasts forever, doesn't require much maintenance, and is very light. I've even run it with a GX derailleur/shifter and it's almost as good. No complaints with RaceFace cinch chainrings though I do gaze longingly at wolftooth.

Still can’t make sense of all the dh/bike the Athertons came out with. There’s, what was it, the A200 with the carbon tubes, and now the S200 with the Alu tubes, and then there’s the high-pivot gearbox proto, which in my view would be the top dog that goes fastest. Then what do you do with the other 2? Keep them as the better pedaller downhill sleds? But then what to do with the 170 bikes which are even better pedallers?

You can definitely build very good wheels just by pitch - I'm basically tone deaf and can still achieve adequately even tension by plucking. The problem becomes after a month of riding - can you verify the pitch is still the same? And theres no way to quantify the absolute tension of each spoke in different wheels - a CX-ray in a carbon rim will sound very different to a thicker round spoke in an alloy rim. if a wheel comes back after a month with a broken spoke, you need some way of confirming that it was built to...

This one is pretty good and show the Type 2. The Type 2.1 has a metal pin thru the housing that you also need to get rid of to be able to work on the T55 bolt. The conspiracy theory behind that metal pin is that Shimano has the patent on the clutch mechanism and sram is only licencing the clutch, and not the option to change the tension of that said clutch. I have no idea if thats the thing or not. https://www.mtbiking.com.au/workshop/sram-type-2-derailleur-clutch-over…

There's a really good section in Earthed 5 of Sam Hill pursuing and smashing the 1:04 time. Back in the Iron Horse days. Nigel tries to follow him with a big ole helmet cam and there's a few sections where Hill just drops him. Earthed 5: Sam Hill on the 1:04

If you did the dropouts the way Banshee does it, it shouldn't be too hard even with UDH... UDH by itself will make the adjustable chainstay option, if done at the axle, a bit more clunky and it could be a problem with Horst link bikes due to the pivot proximity, but it can be done. The question is, is it worth it? Do people actually use it?