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If you did the dropouts the way Banshee does it, it shouldn't be too hard even with UDH... UDH by itself will make the adjustable chainstay option, if done at the axle, a bit more clunky and it could be a problem with Horst link bikes due to the pivot proximity, but it can be done. The question is, is it worth it? Do people actually use it?

re: same test track for reviews: this is going to turn into a tangent...maybe we start a new thread about it? it's a fun topic. like bullet bassman said, whenever we've had a test session, it's always using the same trail(s) throughout the week of testing, so every product gets the same laps. why not just use race results to pick the best bike if speed or data matters most? any tester with solid riding skills on any test bike they've had a chance to get familiar with would probably lay down nearly identical times on the same track. so...

One hunnid percent. During Covid I sold off most of my bikes, because I only rode a couple of them and - my god - the prices used bikes were going for... I pared my collection down to my V2 Hightower and my road bike. Over the next couple years, I rode the absolute shit out of that bike and it became my all-time favorite. Fast forward a bit and the V3 HT comes out and my buddy at SC was like, "bruh you gotta get that new new!" So, I bought a new frame. The new bike was good...

I love Pete's bits. Absolute legend.. I broke my SECOND axle in a month in my DT350 on a Saturday before leaving for a month long BC cup trip. A few texts later, I'm picking up a custom stainless steel axle on a nice Sunday morning. To further derail thread into a rumor about innovative bleeding..when the current gen Shimano brakes came out I worked in shops and did a lot of brake work. I gave their top-down bleed a try on my own bike. Just let the fluid run from the bleed cup, close the system, do the "zip...

Sick. Sounds like my brakes. I was worried this was somehow my fault. I just purchased a Maven/DB8 compatible bleed cup from Pinner Machine Shop in Pemberton and I'm excited to be able to do simple lever bleeds without needing to pull a vacuum. Between this and the old "zip tie the lever overnight" trick, I'm, hoping I should be able to get these things feeling good.

This is getting dangerously close to a brake forum comment, but I think the reason you wouldn't see a vacuum bleeder for brakes is that the seals are designed to seal against positive pressure, but not against significant negative pressure. I've been testing Mavens and DB8's for the last 6 months and, even though the official SRAM mineral oil bleed procedure recommends drawing a vacuum using the Pro Bleed Kit syringe, I've stopped doing that part of the bleed process because I'm able to draw basically an endless amount of air out of my lines, at the lever or at...

It sounds like you haven’t changed a lot of cable/housings on droppers. …Especially on an E bike. Some frames you damn near have to take the bike completely apart to change it. Having a wireless dropper that you just pop it in the hole like a normal post sounds heavenly in these cases.

Too many variables across manufacturers to implement this. Whether you realize it or not, the rails and design of a saddle allow it to flex to give you a bit of compliance. Obviously, some saddles more than others.Trying to stuff something into an already tight adjustment area would make a really comfortable saddle extremely uncomfortable. Haven’t seen it for quite a while, but two bolt clamp designs on slacker seat angle bikes used to inevitably have the front bolt poking the bottom of the seat. Used to see a lot of bikes come in the shop like this, and the...

in Brian Cahal's YouTube video, they take a 2016 Bronson vs 2024 Bronson on 2 tracks and their times are pretty much identical. Has to say something. With e-bikes, the tech is changing so fast so I think a lot of potential buyers/upgraders are staying on the sidelines for a bit.

I have made my own single speed belt park bike and just used the Pinion BT-1 tensioner. There are multiple holes and you can get them to line up with ISCG. Before that i was using the Zerode tensioner and then just drilled an extra hole to line it up. Here is the bike here - https://www.vibebikes.co.nz/

long time reader first time poster here.. friends of mine are developing an vacuum bleeder for shocks and fork dampers to fully service your suspension at home, without the need of messy handbleeding. I just got the chance to try the machine myself and it works pretty straight forward. I thought i spread the word in here because i think this is a pretty cool innovation in the mtb tech for home mechanics/ race day applications etc. https://www.futureliteindustries.com/

I know I'm late to this party, but the difference between a 650b front wheel and a 29" front wheel is enormous in terms of stack height. The same head tube length will be 40 mm lower on a 650b front wheel and 650b specific fork. Especially in a world where manufacturers are already running teeny tiny head tubes (90mm!!) on some size small bikes to get that stack down for small riders, a 650b front wheel makes a big difference in getting small bike geometry and extra large bike geometry into the same ballpark of body position and handling.

This. I had a 2014 OG Canfield Riot with 414 stays and 29x2.5 tire clearance. Chainline was a little fucky, but anyone that says you need super boost for tire clearance is drinking the Kool aid...and I own a Knolly.

But what about the mullets? won't somebody think About the MULLETS??

Yay for options

Low margin and high cost of liability insurance to be in the protection space especially helmets. Not so much with clothes and eyewear.

I see your size-specific chainstay lengths and raise you – size-specific wheelsizes! 24" XS, 26" S, 27.5" M, 29" L, and 32" XL.