Does anyone have tips on how to measure the brake caliper vertical alignment so that the brake pads are centered on the friction ring? One method...
Does anyone have tips on how to measure the brake caliper vertical alignment so that the brake pads are centered on the friction ring? One method I was thinking was to use a marker on the disc and then observe where the pads make contact.
I’m using Shimano Saint brakes with TRP RS01E 223mm discs. The rear has an IS-PM adapter and the caliper fits very tightly, so it might require some creative thinking. I have couple of Magura shims to align caliper.
I think you and Primoz are thinkin' too hard, and that's not meant with any holier than thou. The pads will leave a witness mark on the rotor's brake track, even on initial bed in. I'd be cautious introducing anything that may negatively affect pucker power, such as permanent marker.
The Trinity brakes are really really good. I've tried a lot of brakes recently (Code, Saint, MT7, Radic Kaha, Intend, Maxima, Maven, Dominion, Hope T4 V4...
The Trinity brakes are really really good. I've tried a lot of brakes recently (Code, Saint, MT7, Radic Kaha, Intend, Maxima, Maven, Dominion, Hope T4 V4, a few others I'm probably forgetting) and they are my favorite of the group. I strongly recommend them to anyone interested and willing to pay/run a niche product like that, with the caveats I mentioned above.
They do take a little bit longer to sortof 'bed in' than others. The pads took longer than I was used to for the power to come in, but I also had a minor issue with the pad dragging slightly. After I rode some steeper stuff and got them moving a bit more, that went away. They feel like a more boutique, refined Dominion.
The obvious downside is getting ahold of them.
I am interested to see what Magura does in the near future. They've been liquidating MT7s at heavily discounted rates and I suspect something new is on the horizon. I really liked the feel of the MT7s, but felt the lever body could use some refinement and the initial bite of the pads was a bit lacking compared to similar options.
Just bought the trinity a few weeks ago, didn't have the chance to go on a trail yet but went around town trying to bed in...
Just bought the trinity a few weeks ago, didn't have the chance to go on a trail yet but went around town trying to bed in the brakes.
The modulation is amazing, but I still feel there is power left there on a 1 finger pull. Still can't fully lock the front wheel on a fast hard 1 finger pull (unless I use 2, which I never do). Don't need to lock the wheel when I go blasting through a trail, but I want to know I have all that range on 1 finger.
Is this something that shows I still need to bed in the pads more? Using 220 rotors front and rear, 2.3mm monolithic forumlas, 94-96kg average kitted, 16.7kg bike
How many rides have you done on brakes? Mine didn’t take too long to bed in. You may also want to re-visit your bleed, I had to...
How many rides have you done on brakes? Mine didn’t take too long to bed in.
You may also want to re-visit your bleed, I had to bleed a few times to get all the air out and now my brakes are solid. There was a good reply to me about this a few pages back.
I can lock the front wheel pretty easily on my setup with 203 2.3mm rotors but Im also only at 75kg rider.
I'd say I did about 20 runs of 30km/h-5km/h braking spurts with a bit of commuting to work and back home through town
I guess I will try a re-bleed eventually if I don't notice any improvement. The free travel on the lever is good and short and don't feel anything spongy after the bite point. Also did the zip tie of the lever close to the handlebar trick.
There is another issue though, when I go do a hard front brake pull on the lever that is very short in duration (about 0.5seconds/less) with instant release afterwards, sometimes it feels like I get dragging pads for another 0.5 seconds when the pistons retract. Sometimes I don't get this issue, they retract instantly, other times it happens like this. Is this a lagging piston issue? I am too much of a novice to figure it out, but now I also feel like there is a different sensation to the hard front brake pull when it initiates, but not sure if this is just in my head.. sometimes I can audibly, clearly hear the pads engage the rotor, other times not (and depending on this, the rotors squeal a bit or howl louder). No idea if this is normal
I did write to Intend and they said to get the brakes hot first and if it doesn't fix it, to contact them again... though I can't really get them HOT in town like on a trail (even after the 20 runs of braking spurts, I still have this happen)
Just bought the trinity a few weeks ago, didn't have the chance to go on a trail yet but went around town trying to bed in...
Just bought the trinity a few weeks ago, didn't have the chance to go on a trail yet but went around town trying to bed in the brakes.
The modulation is amazing, but I still feel there is power left there on a 1 finger pull. Still can't fully lock the front wheel on a fast hard 1 finger pull (unless I use 2, which I never do). Don't need to lock the wheel when I go blasting through a trail, but I want to know I have all that range on 1 finger.
Is this something that shows I still need to bed in the pads more? Using 220 rotors front and rear, 2.3mm monolithic forumlas, 94-96kg average kitted, 16.7kg bike
I weigh more than you and ran these on a bike similarly weighed, you shouldn't have problems locking either front or rear wheels. I would suggest...
I weigh more than you and ran these on a bike similarly weighed, you shouldn't have problems locking either front or rear wheels. I would suggest trying to bed them better and re-do your bleed to be certain, getting all the air out can be a bit of a chore the first time. I'd say something is off though b/c locking either front or rear shouldn't take much effort at all.
the back is probably at half the bedding process and I can lock the wheel, the modulation is great
the front is weird and I wish I could go to a trail sooner, don't have any of these bedding in machines at any bike stores in town and just me riding around will take a bit longer
Does anyone have tips on how to measure the brake caliper vertical alignment so that the brake pads are centered on the friction ring? One method...
Does anyone have tips on how to measure the brake caliper vertical alignment so that the brake pads are centered on the friction ring? One method I was thinking was to use a marker on the disc and then observe where the pads make contact.
I’m using Shimano Saint brakes with TRP RS01E 223mm discs. The rear has an IS-PM adapter and the caliper fits very tightly, so it might require some creative thinking. I have couple of Magura shims to align caliper.
I think you and Primoz are thinkin' too hard, and that's not meant with any holier than thou. The pads will leave a witness mark on...
I think you and Primoz are thinkin' too hard, and that's not meant with any holier than thou. The pads will leave a witness mark on the rotor's brake track, even on initial bed in. I'd be cautious introducing anything that may negatively affect pucker power, such as permanent marker.
What about if you are using used rotors on another set of brakes? There are no witness marks then
If the sharpie will affect the braking power, well, damn, we better cover up those rotors with well sealed covers REAL quick. Think of all the dust, muck and sand getting onto the rotors affecting braking power.
Just bought the trinity a few weeks ago, didn't have the chance to go on a trail yet but went around town trying to bed in...
Just bought the trinity a few weeks ago, didn't have the chance to go on a trail yet but went around town trying to bed in the brakes.
The modulation is amazing, but I still feel there is power left there on a 1 finger pull. Still can't fully lock the front wheel on a fast hard 1 finger pull (unless I use 2, which I never do). Don't need to lock the wheel when I go blasting through a trail, but I want to know I have all that range on 1 finger.
Is this something that shows I still need to bed in the pads more? Using 220 rotors front and rear, 2.3mm monolithic forumlas, 94-96kg average kitted, 16.7kg bike
How many rides have you done on brakes? Mine didn’t take too long to bed in. You may also want to re-visit your bleed, I had to...
How many rides have you done on brakes? Mine didn’t take too long to bed in.
You may also want to re-visit your bleed, I had to bleed a few times to get all the air out and now my brakes are solid. There was a good reply to me about this a few pages back.
I can lock the front wheel pretty easily on my setup with 203 2.3mm rotors but Im also only at 75kg rider.
I'd say I did about 20 runs of 30km/h-5km/h braking spurts with a bit of commuting to work and back home through townI guess I will...
I'd say I did about 20 runs of 30km/h-5km/h braking spurts with a bit of commuting to work and back home through town
I guess I will try a re-bleed eventually if I don't notice any improvement. The free travel on the lever is good and short and don't feel anything spongy after the bite point. Also did the zip tie of the lever close to the handlebar trick.
There is another issue though, when I go do a hard front brake pull on the lever that is very short in duration (about 0.5seconds/less) with instant release afterwards, sometimes it feels like I get dragging pads for another 0.5 seconds when the pistons retract. Sometimes I don't get this issue, they retract instantly, other times it happens like this. Is this a lagging piston issue? I am too much of a novice to figure it out, but now I also feel like there is a different sensation to the hard front brake pull when it initiates, but not sure if this is just in my head.. sometimes I can audibly, clearly hear the pads engage the rotor, other times not (and depending on this, the rotors squeal a bit or howl louder). No idea if this is normal
I did write to Intend and they said to get the brakes hot first and if it doesn't fix it, to contact them again... though I can't really get them HOT in town like on a trail (even after the 20 runs of braking spurts, I still have this happen)
Anecdotally it took me about 700m of descending after doing a “street bed in” process for them to fully bed in.
I’d just take it on a few rides first before troubleshooting any more.
Does anyone have tips on how to measure the brake caliper vertical alignment so that the brake pads are centered on the friction ring? One method...
Does anyone have tips on how to measure the brake caliper vertical alignment so that the brake pads are centered on the friction ring? One method I was thinking was to use a marker on the disc and then observe where the pads make contact.
I’m using Shimano Saint brakes with TRP RS01E 223mm discs. The rear has an IS-PM adapter and the caliper fits very tightly, so it might require some creative thinking. I have couple of Magura shims to align caliper.
I think you and Primoz are thinkin' too hard, and that's not meant with any holier than thou. The pads will leave a witness mark on...
I think you and Primoz are thinkin' too hard, and that's not meant with any holier than thou. The pads will leave a witness mark on the rotor's brake track, even on initial bed in. I'd be cautious introducing anything that may negatively affect pucker power, such as permanent marker.
What about if you are using used rotors on another set of brakes? There are no witness marks then :PIf the sharpie will affect the braking...
What about if you are using used rotors on another set of brakes? There are no witness marks then
If the sharpie will affect the braking power, well, damn, we better cover up those rotors with well sealed covers REAL quick. Think of all the dust, muck and sand getting onto the rotors affecting braking power.
KEEP THE HYPOTHETICALS COMING!!!!
You'd still need to bed the brakes in, which would bring back the witness marks. I look at it as not introducing an unintended consequence. Is perfect* pad depth worth potentially screwin' up a set of pads? But that could be my frugality speaking. Will the solvent and/or resin in the ink mess things up? I don't know, hence my predilection for working with known variables.
How many rides have you done on brakes? Mine didn’t take too long to bed in. You may also want to re-visit your bleed, I had to...
How many rides have you done on brakes? Mine didn’t take too long to bed in.
You may also want to re-visit your bleed, I had to bleed a few times to get all the air out and now my brakes are solid. There was a good reply to me about this a few pages back.
I can lock the front wheel pretty easily on my setup with 203 2.3mm rotors but Im also only at 75kg rider.
I'd say I did about 20 runs of 30km/h-5km/h braking spurts with a bit of commuting to work and back home through townI guess I will...
I'd say I did about 20 runs of 30km/h-5km/h braking spurts with a bit of commuting to work and back home through town
I guess I will try a re-bleed eventually if I don't notice any improvement. The free travel on the lever is good and short and don't feel anything spongy after the bite point. Also did the zip tie of the lever close to the handlebar trick.
There is another issue though, when I go do a hard front brake pull on the lever that is very short in duration (about 0.5seconds/less) with instant release afterwards, sometimes it feels like I get dragging pads for another 0.5 seconds when the pistons retract. Sometimes I don't get this issue, they retract instantly, other times it happens like this. Is this a lagging piston issue? I am too much of a novice to figure it out, but now I also feel like there is a different sensation to the hard front brake pull when it initiates, but not sure if this is just in my head.. sometimes I can audibly, clearly hear the pads engage the rotor, other times not (and depending on this, the rotors squeal a bit or howl louder). No idea if this is normal
I did write to Intend and they said to get the brakes hot first and if it doesn't fix it, to contact them again... though I can't really get them HOT in town like on a trail (even after the 20 runs of braking spurts, I still have this happen)
Added lever bleed port puts them on my list of brakes to try now.
Im curious to see how it is, it looks to me it’s in a position where air can get trapped underneath the diaphragm, so I’d still bleed them the normal way
After going back and fourth for the last month I decided to pull the trigger on some T4V4’s to replace the Radic Kaha’s that I’ve been...
After going back and fourth for the last month I decided to pull the trigger on some T4V4’s to replace the Radic Kaha’s that I’ve been running for the last year. I figured my purchase should trigger some event that causes hope to release the new gravity brake causing me to have buyers remorse over the purchase for not waiting, but giving anyone else the opportunity to grab some discounted T4V4’s or the new brake… your welcome 😂.
Some initial impressions:
Last time I worked on a set of hope brakes was at least 15 years ago, and they always seemed to be shelf queens imo. I know that has changed but I’m happy to see/feel it in person. Pad retraction is pretty damn good, having struggled with mt7 for longer than I should have and coming from Kaha’s that are intolerant of any runout in rotors I’m pretty happy that these have a decent amount while still having short throw. Coming to that, the dead stroke is much much better than I was expecting, not sure if it’s exaggerated or what but with the contact point adjuster wound in for the least free/dead stroke I am measuring 14mm until the lever firms up. That’s actually very close to where I have the free stroke set on my Kaha’s, also adjustable, to maintain reliability. I will say, they have a heavier lever pull than both the Kaha’s and the Dominions, by a fair amount to the latter.
I pulled my Trickstuff pads from my Kaha’s to have a better idea of how they stop, with everything else being equal, tbh I feel like there is no difference in power other than I builds slower, more modulation, but required more lever throw to get there.
I was able to get the calipers centered on the rotors and have nearly equal piston extension front and rear. The bleed process brought back memories but I used a miniature hose clamp to secure the hose to the barb at the caliper which made it a lot easier to pull a vacuum and dislodge any bubbles in the caliper before I pulled the diaphragm and performed a push bleed from the caliper. The front brake was pretty poorly bled from the factory, the rear was perfect (based on lever feel prior to cutting the hoses) can’t wait to put some laps on them and hoping, pun intended, they solve my weird reliability issue that comes and goes with the Kaha’s…
Kaha dead stroke seems the easiest to get ultrashort. Mine is 6-7mm. The firmness is unrivaled. However, the lever shape is not great and no tooless on the trail reach/bite adjust. The bite point grub screen requires removal of the lever from the bar in my experience. Parts long term are also a concern.
The hopes seem like the best option going forward. Would have liked a bleeding edge port and larger resivour but finally some company has lever options! Been saying that’s needed for years. Parts are obviously not an issue.
I might give these a go when they come out with the power levers
My guess would be they've introduced a 17mm piston and have gone 18/17 for GR (+6%) and 17/16 for the TR (+6.5%).
What is surprising is that they have decided to use the same pad (V4?) in both because the smaller pad in the E4 was one of the main reasons it felt different to the V4. It's good they've added a different sized piston though as the E4 pad wear was really uneven.
I might give these a go when they come out with the power levers
The cam for a firmer bite point has me extremely interested.
Glad to see they’re still DOT. I’m getting more and more mineral oil brakes and I find them annoying. They’re not the massive improvement that people claim.
I can get DOT fluid anywhere at any time (you can even take some from your car reservoir if you’re in a pinch), I don’t want to buy your special flavor of baby oil that you colored purple or some shit.
I also hate cleaning up mineral oil. DOT fluid is a bit nasty, but it’s soluble in water so it just washes off. Even with IPA in a spray bottle, mineral oil seems to always get stuck in crevices around brake levers and attract dirt.
Very interested in these new Hope brakes and might give them a shot next season. I like the lever options and the control version might be perfect for my riding.
With the recent changes to Trickstuff and their main HQ shutting down, I have not been happy with their customer support overall. I get redirected to the DT Swiss service center where the response times are slow compared to just a year ago. They don't seem to be as detail oriented as the original team and don't provide much if any detail to help you troubleshoot things. Getting VIP treatment was part of the cost when I bought the Maximas but that might be dwindling.
After going back and fourth for the last month I decided to pull the trigger on some T4V4’s to replace the Radic Kaha’s that I’ve been...
After going back and fourth for the last month I decided to pull the trigger on some T4V4’s to replace the Radic Kaha’s that I’ve been running for the last year. I figured my purchase should trigger some event that causes hope to release the new gravity brake causing me to have buyers remorse over the purchase for not waiting, but giving anyone else the opportunity to grab some discounted T4V4’s or the new brake… your welcome 😂.
Some initial impressions:
Last time I worked on a set of hope brakes was at least 15 years ago, and they always seemed to be shelf queens imo. I know that has changed but I’m happy to see/feel it in person. Pad retraction is pretty damn good, having struggled with mt7 for longer than I should have and coming from Kaha’s that are intolerant of any runout in rotors I’m pretty happy that these have a decent amount while still having short throw. Coming to that, the dead stroke is much much better than I was expecting, not sure if it’s exaggerated or what but with the contact point adjuster wound in for the least free/dead stroke I am measuring 14mm until the lever firms up. That’s actually very close to where I have the free stroke set on my Kaha’s, also adjustable, to maintain reliability. I will say, they have a heavier lever pull than both the Kaha’s and the Dominions, by a fair amount to the latter.
I pulled my Trickstuff pads from my Kaha’s to have a better idea of how they stop, with everything else being equal, tbh I feel like there is no difference in power other than I builds slower, more modulation, but required more lever throw to get there.
I was able to get the calipers centered on the rotors and have nearly equal piston extension front and rear. The bleed process brought back memories but I used a miniature hose clamp to secure the hose to the barb at the caliper which made it a lot easier to pull a vacuum and dislodge any bubbles in the caliper before I pulled the diaphragm and performed a push bleed from the caliper. The front brake was pretty poorly bled from the factory, the rear was perfect (based on lever feel prior to cutting the hoses) can’t wait to put some laps on them and hoping, pun intended, they solve my weird reliability issue that comes and goes with the Kaha’s…
Update:
Got a good weekend of riding in Friday-Sunday, 25miles and 19k feet of descending, would have been more if it wasnt for the snow storm on sat. Lots of laps on the old N* EWS track, TNT, along with Sticks and Boonies and I have to say I am very, very, impressed with the hopes and what I will call, a very intuitive power delivery. Funny enough, most people that grab the levers would try to squeeze them to death and commented on the "soft" feel. IMO the bite point is very defined, but the force to get to that bite is crazy low, and the force required to get to lockup is also crazy low. It takes little to no power from the hands to get the bike to a complete stop regardless of how steep the trail was. I did get to test them out on one of the pirate trails there, steepest in the park and could be described as having "Loam Dust," and was pretty impressed with how easy it was to keep the tires at the edge of grip without lockup, that is until you wanted to send a dust bomb to the guy behind you
Took zero time to get used to the feel, going back to the intuitive feel, it just seemed right. I really like the fact that I could run the levers pretty close to the bar and still have good lever clearance at full lock, not something I can do with my A4's or Xt's.
I'm really interested in the new lever design though, hoping that its just a drop-in replacement with the old cam as I am not really interested in a firmer feeling lever bite point. The TS Power pads bite plenty hard to the point that I wouldn't want any more. I was going to do some back-to-back testing with the Kaha's after I get them sorted with Radic, but at this point I'll probably toss them in the bin for a rainy day. Interested in the new GR4's, might have to move the T4V4's to the trail bike and upgrade the bigger bike this off season.
I am curious as to what shifter mounts people are using, I am running a standard clamp on my XTR shifter due to positioning with the kaha lever, but to get the T4V4 lever in the right spot I feel like I am compromising on the shifter location are folks using the hope integrated mounts? Is the range of motion pretty good? TIA!
Update: Got a good weekend of riding in Friday-Sunday, 25miles and 19k feet of descending, would have been more if it wasnt for the snow storm on...
Update:
Got a good weekend of riding in Friday-Sunday, 25miles and 19k feet of descending, would have been more if it wasnt for the snow storm on sat. Lots of laps on the old N* EWS track, TNT, along with Sticks and Boonies and I have to say I am very, very, impressed with the hopes and what I will call, a very intuitive power delivery. Funny enough, most people that grab the levers would try to squeeze them to death and commented on the "soft" feel. IMO the bite point is very defined, but the force to get to that bite is crazy low, and the force required to get to lockup is also crazy low. It takes little to no power from the hands to get the bike to a complete stop regardless of how steep the trail was. I did get to test them out on one of the pirate trails there, steepest in the park and could be described as having "Loam Dust," and was pretty impressed with how easy it was to keep the tires at the edge of grip without lockup, that is until you wanted to send a dust bomb to the guy behind you
Took zero time to get used to the feel, going back to the intuitive feel, it just seemed right. I really like the fact that I could run the levers pretty close to the bar and still have good lever clearance at full lock, not something I can do with my A4's or Xt's.
I'm really interested in the new lever design though, hoping that its just a drop-in replacement with the old cam as I am not really interested in a firmer feeling lever bite point. The TS Power pads bite plenty hard to the point that I wouldn't want any more. I was going to do some back-to-back testing with the Kaha's after I get them sorted with Radic, but at this point I'll probably toss them in the bin for a rainy day. Interested in the new GR4's, might have to move the T4V4's to the trail bike and upgrade the bigger bike this off season.
I am curious as to what shifter mounts people are using, I am running a standard clamp on my XTR shifter due to positioning with the kaha lever, but to get the T4V4 lever in the right spot I feel like I am compromising on the shifter location are folks using the hope integrated mounts? Is the range of motion pretty good? TIA!
Thanks for sharing your experience. I would highly recommend the Hope's dropper lever. It is a thing of beauty and very adjustable.
New Hope brakes are going to time it perfectly for dh season here. I'll be getting a set of the GR4 around release. Not run hopes since the Motos back in the day haha.
Very interested in these new Hope brakes and might give them a shot next season. I like the lever options and the control version might be...
Very interested in these new Hope brakes and might give them a shot next season. I like the lever options and the control version might be perfect for my riding.
With the recent changes to Trickstuff and their main HQ shutting down, I have not been happy with their customer support overall. I get redirected to the DT Swiss service center where the response times are slow compared to just a year ago. They don't seem to be as detail oriented as the original team and don't provide much if any detail to help you troubleshoot things. Getting VIP treatment was part of the cost when I bought the Maximas but that might be dwindling.
I specifically bought Intends over Trickstuff because DT Swiss closed their main office.
Have any of you run TRP 2.3mm rotors with Hayes Dominions? I need to get new rotors and the Hayes d series are oos everywhere and I don't want to use Sram rotors anymore.
I think you and Primoz are thinkin' too hard, and that's not meant with any holier than thou. The pads will leave a witness mark on the rotor's brake track, even on initial bed in. I'd be cautious introducing anything that may negatively affect pucker power, such as permanent marker.
I'd say I did about 20 runs of 30km/h-5km/h braking spurts with a bit of commuting to work and back home through town
I guess I will try a re-bleed eventually if I don't notice any improvement. The free travel on the lever is good and short and don't feel anything spongy after the bite point. Also did the zip tie of the lever close to the handlebar trick.
There is another issue though, when I go do a hard front brake pull on the lever that is very short in duration (about 0.5seconds/less) with instant release afterwards, sometimes it feels like I get dragging pads for another 0.5 seconds when the pistons retract. Sometimes I don't get this issue, they retract instantly, other times it happens like this. Is this a lagging piston issue? I am too much of a novice to figure it out, but now I also feel like there is a different sensation to the hard front brake pull when it initiates, but not sure if this is just in my head.. sometimes I can audibly, clearly hear the pads engage the rotor, other times not (and depending on this, the rotors squeal a bit or howl louder). No idea if this is normal
I did write to Intend and they said to get the brakes hot first and if it doesn't fix it, to contact them again... though I can't really get them HOT in town like on a trail (even after the 20 runs of braking spurts, I still have this happen)
the back is probably at half the bedding process and I can lock the wheel, the modulation is great
the front is weird and I wish I could go to a trail sooner, don't have any of these bedding in machines at any bike stores in town and just me riding around will take a bit longer
Have a Magic Mary with addix ultra soft on the front wheel with a 170mm fox, gets quite grippy + 29 psi
What about if you are using used rotors on another set of brakes? There are no witness marks then
If the sharpie will affect the braking power, well, damn, we better cover up those rotors with well sealed covers REAL quick. Think of all the dust, muck and sand getting onto the rotors affecting braking power.
Anecdotally it took me about 700m of descending after doing a “street bed in” process for them to fully bed in.
I’d just take it on a few rides first before troubleshooting any more.
KEEP THE HYPOTHETICALS COMING!!!!
You'd still need to bed the brakes in, which would bring back the witness marks. I look at it as not introducing an unintended consequence. Is perfect* pad depth worth potentially screwin' up a set of pads? But that could be my frugality speaking. Will the solvent and/or resin in the ink mess things up? I don't know, hence my predilection for working with known variables.
Will do that
https://www.vitalmtb.com/news/press-release/hope-technology-unveils-evo-brake
The new Hopes are revealed, I assume 6% increase in piston size from 18/16 means 18/18mm
I might give these a go when they come out with the power levers
Added lever bleed port puts them on my list of brakes to try now.
Im curious to see how it is, it looks to me it’s in a position where air can get trapped underneath the diaphragm, so I’d still bleed them the normal way
Too bad they aren't compatible anymore with that massive 3.3mm rotor
GR4 and TR4 both use larger leading pistons (as per video).
Still DOT?
I think so, no details that I’ve seen about that, now they have the same pads GR and TR but both different from e4/v4 shape
They most likely realized almost nobody uses them, they’re too expensive and heavy
Thanks!
Kaha dead stroke seems the easiest to get ultrashort. Mine is 6-7mm. The firmness is unrivaled. However, the lever shape is not great and no tooless on the trail reach/bite adjust. The bite point grub screen requires removal of the lever from the bar in my experience. Parts long term are also a concern.
The hopes seem like the best option going forward. Would have liked a bleeding edge port and larger resivour but finally some company has lever options! Been saying that’s needed for years. Parts are obviously not an issue.
Vented rotors are no loss—PITA to true.
The raidic hose connectors are amazing. No barbs or expendable parts—totally resuable. I use them on my hopes btw
My guess would be they've introduced a 17mm piston and have gone 18/17 for GR (+6%) and 17/16 for the TR (+6.5%).
What is surprising is that they have decided to use the same pad (V4?) in both because the smaller pad in the E4 was one of the main reasons it felt different to the V4. It's good they've added a different sized piston though as the E4 pad wear was really uneven.
Both brakes have a 17mm piston present, that's a new size for hope.
The cam for a firmer bite point has me extremely interested.
Glad to see they’re still DOT. I’m getting more and more mineral oil brakes and I find them annoying. They’re not the massive improvement that people claim.
I can get DOT fluid anywhere at any time (you can even take some from your car reservoir if you’re in a pinch), I don’t want to buy your special flavor of baby oil that you colored purple or some shit.
I also hate cleaning up mineral oil. DOT fluid is a bit nasty, but it’s soluble in water so it just washes off. Even with IPA in a spray bottle, mineral oil seems to always get stuck in crevices around brake levers and attract dirt.
Very interested in these new Hope brakes and might give them a shot next season. I like the lever options and the control version might be perfect for my riding.
With the recent changes to Trickstuff and their main HQ shutting down, I have not been happy with their customer support overall. I get redirected to the DT Swiss service center where the response times are slow compared to just a year ago. They don't seem to be as detail oriented as the original team and don't provide much if any detail to help you troubleshoot things. Getting VIP treatment was part of the cost when I bought the Maximas but that might be dwindling.
Update:
Got a good weekend of riding in Friday-Sunday, 25miles and 19k feet of descending, would have been more if it wasnt for the snow storm on sat. Lots of laps on the old N* EWS track, TNT, along with Sticks and Boonies and I have to say I am very, very, impressed with the hopes and what I will call, a very intuitive power delivery. Funny enough, most people that grab the levers would try to squeeze them to death and commented on the "soft" feel. IMO the bite point is very defined, but the force to get to that bite is crazy low, and the force required to get to lockup is also crazy low. It takes little to no power from the hands to get the bike to a complete stop regardless of how steep the trail was. I did get to test them out on one of the pirate trails there, steepest in the park and could be described as having "Loam Dust," and was pretty impressed with how easy it was to keep the tires at the edge of grip without lockup, that is until you wanted to send a dust bomb to the guy behind you
Took zero time to get used to the feel, going back to the intuitive feel, it just seemed right. I really like the fact that I could run the levers pretty close to the bar and still have good lever clearance at full lock, not something I can do with my A4's or Xt's.
I'm really interested in the new lever design though, hoping that its just a drop-in replacement with the old cam as I am not really interested in a firmer feeling lever bite point. The TS Power pads bite plenty hard to the point that I wouldn't want any more. I was going to do some back-to-back testing with the Kaha's after I get them sorted with Radic, but at this point I'll probably toss them in the bin for a rainy day. Interested in the new GR4's, might have to move the T4V4's to the trail bike and upgrade the bigger bike this off season.
I am curious as to what shifter mounts people are using, I am running a standard clamp on my XTR shifter due to positioning with the kaha lever, but to get the T4V4 lever in the right spot I feel like I am compromising on the shifter location are folks using the hope integrated mounts? Is the range of motion pretty good? TIA!
Thanks for sharing your experience. I would highly recommend the Hope's dropper lever. It is a thing of beauty and very adjustable.
is there any document where they state piston sizes? couldn't find anything
From one of the UK sites:
New Hope brakes are going to time it perfectly for dh season here. I'll be getting a set of the GR4 around release. Not run hopes since the Motos back in the day haha.
I specifically bought Intends over Trickstuff because DT Swiss closed their main office.
thats great, not that they need any more power, but nice, great to see the lever will be even more smooth and light
Have any of you run TRP 2.3mm rotors with Hayes Dominions? I need to get new rotors and the Hayes d series are oos everywhere and I don't want to use Sram rotors anymore.
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