Random thought: I think the replacement of the bladder at the end is the most difficult part to avoid any air. Why not bleed upside down...
Random thought: I think the replacement of the bladder at the end is the most difficult part to avoid any air. Why not bleed upside down and use the caliper bleed port to make sure absolutely no air?
I got my hands on some Maven bases the other day. First impressions after bedding in the rotors and test riding them are that they feel like a slightly more powerful Code, definitely did not have that immediate grab of the Maven silvers. Lever pull did feel a bit lighter, but not as light as my Dominions, and then the bite point was a bit vague and and there was a good amount of squish after the bite.
Regarding contact adjust, I've read multiple places that the way that works on SRAM RSC-style brakes is different. On those, it changes the rotation of the...
Regarding contact adjust, I've read multiple places that the way that works on SRAM RSC-style brakes is different. On those, it changes the rotation of the eccentric cam that the lever uses to drive the master cylinder piston. This cam has varying amounts of mechanical advantage throughout its rotation. Winding the C adjuster out on these brakes decreases the mechanical advantage, making the lever pull effectively more linear (ratio of lever movement to piston advancement gets closer to 1:1). So the distance you have to pull the lever in order to make the pads contact the rotor gets shorter, but the amount of finger force needed increases because it loses mechanical advantage over the system drag. Conversely if you run the C adjuster all the way in, you gain maximum mechanical advantage so the pull is lighter but has to move further to hit the contact point. Think of a simple lever over fulcrum setup - C adjuster fully out is short lever arm, C adjuster fully in is longer lever arm.
When I used to have Code RSCs, I didn't realize this and ran the C all the way out to make them bite quickest like I was used to from Maguras or Shimanos, and would get wicked arm pump on relatively short descents. Years later after I learned this and got Mavens, I run the C all the way in after a bleed and only adjust outward a little to balance feel, and never get arm pump.
That said, the bite point adjust on other brake systems sometimes works differently (directly advances the MC piston - Hayes' version does this).
Been a spot since I popped a pair of Sram's apart, but I recollect the dial interfacing with another component that interfaced with a threaded unit...
Been a spot since I popped a pair of Sram's apart, but I recollect the dial interfacing with another component that interfaced with a threaded unit that did in turn advance or retreat the MC piston. I could be wrong and if so I expect to be enlightened.
I have this pasted into some notes on brakes (yes, I'm that nerdy), so I'm plagiarizing someone. I think I know who but don't want to say in case I'm wrong and this is wrong.
"With swinglink, since the initial position of the cam profile doesn't change, the contact adjuster causes the position on the cam profile at which the pads make contact with the rotor to change. The more aggressive the ramp in the cam profile is, the more pronounced the difference in feel based on contact adjust is. The initial portion of the cam profile has decreased leverage so that the gap between the pads and the rotor can close quicker. The cam profile then transitions to higher leverage for increased braking force without an overly stiff lever. When contact adjust is wound all the way in, you transition to the higher leverage portion of the cam a little later relative to when the pads contact the rotor which results in a stiffer feel than if you wind it all the way out."
I got my hands on some Maven bases the other day. First impressions after bedding in the rotors and test riding them are that they feel...
I got my hands on some Maven bases the other day. First impressions after bedding in the rotors and test riding them are that they feel like a slightly more powerful Code, definitely did not have that immediate grab of the Maven silvers. Lever pull did feel a bit lighter, but not as light as my Dominions, and then the bite point was a bit vague and and there was a good amount of squish after the bite.
Maven Bronze you mean? I'm currently on a pair with a couple of rides on them, they feel about the same in terms of lever squish compared to the Maven ULT (i.e. not much squish at all!). Are you sure they had a good bleed?
I got my hands on some Maven bases the other day. First impressions after bedding in the rotors and test riding them are that they feel...
I got my hands on some Maven bases the other day. First impressions after bedding in the rotors and test riding them are that they feel like a slightly more powerful Code, definitely did not have that immediate grab of the Maven silvers. Lever pull did feel a bit lighter, but not as light as my Dominions, and then the bite point was a bit vague and and there was a good amount of squish after the bite.
Maven Bronze you mean? I'm currently on a pair with a couple of rides on them, they feel about the same in terms of lever squish...
Maven Bronze you mean? I'm currently on a pair with a couple of rides on them, they feel about the same in terms of lever squish compared to the Maven ULT (i.e. not much squish at all!). Are you sure they had a good bleed?
Nope, I mean maven base. Came stock on the Sram 90 build Hightower that we got in. I'm pretty confident in the bleed, since I did it myself haha. I will say I did not do the piston massage, but there was no inconsistency in the feel or pull at the lever. Maven bases use the direct link lever, instead of the swing link, which is probably the major reason they don't feel like the ultimates where the bronze do. I haven't been able to do any real trail riding on them, but I bed in the pads (metallic) and gave them as good of a power test as I could riding around outside the shop. The Maven ults had that "holy shit" power and bite, where the bases delivered way more gradually, felt like a code rsc, but the power came on a bit faster and stronger. Definitely not a bad brake, one of the best from sram and a good price too.
I got my hands on some Maven bases the other day. First impressions after bedding in the rotors and test riding them are that they feel...
I got my hands on some Maven bases the other day. First impressions after bedding in the rotors and test riding them are that they feel like a slightly more powerful Code, definitely did not have that immediate grab of the Maven silvers. Lever pull did feel a bit lighter, but not as light as my Dominions, and then the bite point was a bit vague and and there was a good amount of squish after the bite.
Maven Bronze you mean? I'm currently on a pair with a couple of rides on them, they feel about the same in terms of lever squish...
Maven Bronze you mean? I'm currently on a pair with a couple of rides on them, they feel about the same in terms of lever squish compared to the Maven ULT (i.e. not much squish at all!). Are you sure they had a good bleed?
Nope, I mean maven base. Came stock on the Sram 90 build Hightower that we got in. I'm pretty confident in the bleed, since I did...
Nope, I mean maven base. Came stock on the Sram 90 build Hightower that we got in. I'm pretty confident in the bleed, since I did it myself haha. I will say I did not do the piston massage, but there was no inconsistency in the feel or pull at the lever. Maven bases use the direct link lever, instead of the swing link, which is probably the major reason they don't feel like the ultimates where the bronze do. I haven't been able to do any real trail riding on them, but I bed in the pads (metallic) and gave them as good of a power test as I could riding around outside the shop. The Maven ults had that "holy shit" power and bite, where the bases delivered way more gradually, felt like a code rsc, but the power came on a bit faster and stronger. Definitely not a bad brake, one of the best from sram and a good price too.
It's the piston sizing, the base has lower hydraulic leverage with 4 18mm pistons vs the rest of the lineup with 2 19.5mm and 2 18mm pistons. Its a lower power brake by design.
Nope, I mean maven base. Came stock on the Sram 90 build Hightower that we got in. I'm pretty confident in the bleed, since I did...
Nope, I mean maven base. Came stock on the Sram 90 build Hightower that we got in. I'm pretty confident in the bleed, since I did it myself haha. I will say I did not do the piston massage, but there was no inconsistency in the feel or pull at the lever. Maven bases use the direct link lever, instead of the swing link, which is probably the major reason they don't feel like the ultimates where the bronze do. I haven't been able to do any real trail riding on them, but I bed in the pads (metallic) and gave them as good of a power test as I could riding around outside the shop. The Maven ults had that "holy shit" power and bite, where the bases delivered way more gradually, felt like a code rsc, but the power came on a bit faster and stronger. Definitely not a bad brake, one of the best from sram and a good price too.
Oh yeah, I forgot those even existed...tired old brain can't keep up! Thanks for clarifying.
Random thought: I think the replacement of the bladder at the end is the most difficult part to avoid any air. Why not bleed upside down...
Random thought: I think the replacement of the bladder at the end is the most difficult part to avoid any air. Why not bleed upside down and use the caliper bleed port to make sure absolutely no air?
I invertered my bike for 2 hours and opened the caliper port. Sucked out a little air and replaced same volume with fluid.
It’s amazing now
Technically possible, you're using the diaphragm to pump in and out. But you're severely limited in the volume you can pump in and out and limited by how well the air flows into the caliper. Plus it's quite easy to catch some air in the caliper as well if it's not Sram bleeding edge-esque (they have a full loop through the caliper so both sides can be bled nicely).
Good for you it's all well now, but while technically possible, this method has a bunch of caveats that make it prone to make inadequate bleeds.
Regarding contact adjust, I've read multiple places that the way that works on SRAM RSC-style brakes is different. On those, it changes the rotation of the...
Regarding contact adjust, I've read multiple places that the way that works on SRAM RSC-style brakes is different. On those, it changes the rotation of the eccentric cam that the lever uses to drive the master cylinder piston. This cam has varying amounts of mechanical advantage throughout its rotation. Winding the C adjuster out on these brakes decreases the mechanical advantage, making the lever pull effectively more linear (ratio of lever movement to piston advancement gets closer to 1:1). So the distance you have to pull the lever in order to make the pads contact the rotor gets shorter, but the amount of finger force needed increases because it loses mechanical advantage over the system drag. Conversely if you run the C adjuster all the way in, you gain maximum mechanical advantage so the pull is lighter but has to move further to hit the contact point. Think of a simple lever over fulcrum setup - C adjuster fully out is short lever arm, C adjuster fully in is longer lever arm.
When I used to have Code RSCs, I didn't realize this and ran the C all the way out to make them bite quickest like I was used to from Maguras or Shimanos, and would get wicked arm pump on relatively short descents. Years later after I learned this and got Mavens, I run the C all the way in after a bleed and only adjust outward a little to balance feel, and never get arm pump.
That said, the bite point adjust on other brake systems sometimes works differently (directly advances the MC piston - Hayes' version does this).
Been a spot since I popped a pair of Sram's apart, but I recollect the dial interfacing with another component that interfaced with a threaded unit...
Been a spot since I popped a pair of Sram's apart, but I recollect the dial interfacing with another component that interfaced with a threaded unit that did in turn advance or retreat the MC piston. I could be wrong and if so I expect to be enlightened.
I have this pasted into some notes on brakes (yes, I'm that nerdy), so I'm plagiarizing someone. I think I know who but don't want to...
I have this pasted into some notes on brakes (yes, I'm that nerdy), so I'm plagiarizing someone. I think I know who but don't want to say in case I'm wrong and this is wrong.
"With swinglink, since the initial position of the cam profile doesn't change, the contact adjuster causes the position on the cam profile at which the pads make contact with the rotor to change. The more aggressive the ramp in the cam profile is, the more pronounced the difference in feel based on contact adjust is. The initial portion of the cam profile has decreased leverage so that the gap between the pads and the rotor can close quicker. The cam profile then transitions to higher leverage for increased braking force without an overly stiff lever. When contact adjust is wound all the way in, you transition to the higher leverage portion of the cam a little later relative to when the pads contact the rotor which results in a stiffer feel than if you wind it all the way out."
Technically possible, you're using the diaphragm to pump in and out. But you're severely limited in the volume you can pump in and out and limited...
Technically possible, you're using the diaphragm to pump in and out. But you're severely limited in the volume you can pump in and out and limited by how well the air flows into the caliper. Plus it's quite easy to catch some air in the caliper as well if it's not Sram bleeding edge-esque (they have a full loop through the caliper so both sides can be bled nicely).
Good for you it's all well now, but while technically possible, this method has a bunch of caveats that make it prone to make inadequate bleeds.
Yes, cannot do a brand new bleed like this. It's for the last bit of air.
Truely awesome now. Why can't they just just a bleeding edge port on lever and caliper?
They as in Hope? Other than Sram nobody does the bleeding edge. But yes, a world full of bleeding edges would be a wonderful world. It does take up quite a lot of space depth wise so I guess that is part of the reason why it's not used on the levers (Sram makes flippy-floppy levers and that would require two bleeding edges).
They as in Hope? Other than Sram nobody does the bleeding edge. But yes, a world full of bleeding edges would be a wonderful world. It...
They as in Hope? Other than Sram nobody does the bleeding edge. But yes, a world full of bleeding edges would be a wonderful world. It does take up quite a lot of space depth wise so I guess that is part of the reason why it's not used on the levers (Sram makes flippy-floppy levers and that would require two bleeding edges).
Radic Kaha have Bleeding edge, i don't understand the hype around it to be honest but happy to be enlightened. It doesn't feel a 100% success rate bleeding system to me.
Hopes actually are good to bleed if you excuse the last step. You don't actually need a kit in a pinch and you can do it...
Hopes actually are good to bleed if you excuse the last step. You don't actually need a kit in a pinch and you can do it with the pads in.
Wonder if you could mod a v4 resi to the same as a maxima one with the port on the vertical outside edge of the reservoir.
i guess you could by drilling a hole and threading it with a nice bolt, possibly one from another manufacturer, it's all alloy at the end of the day, and placing it in the right spot so that the diaphragm doesn't trap any air, opposite of what lewis did making sure air gets trapped by positioning the bleed hole in the worst spot
Which, if it’s rhis one, I’d be really curious to know how they think you can properly bleed the brakes from there, assuming it’s a bleeding port, I hope not, no pun intended
Which, if it’s rhis one, I’d be really curious to know how they think you can properly bleed the brakes from there, assuming it’s a bleeding...
Which, if it’s rhis one, I’d be really curious to know how they think you can properly bleed the brakes from there, assuming it’s a bleeding port, I hope not, no pun intended
Actually looks like you could get a good angle by just orienting the brake lever fully downwards. That bleed port (if that’s what it is) would pretty much be at the highest point of the reservoir in that position. And there’s nothing around the inside of the reaervoir to trap air there.
Actually looks like you could get a good angle by just orienting the brake lever fully downwards. That bleed port (if that’s what it is) would...
Actually looks like you could get a good angle by just orienting the brake lever fully downwards. That bleed port (if that’s what it is) would pretty much be at the highest point of the reservoir in that position. And there’s nothing around the inside of the reaervoir to trap air there.
it's all speculation of course, but from this picture it's not at the highest point, therefore air can be trapped under the diaphragm, we'll see
Which, if it’s rhis one, I’d be really curious to know how they think you can properly bleed the brakes from there, assuming it’s a bleeding...
Which, if it’s rhis one, I’d be really curious to know how they think you can properly bleed the brakes from there, assuming it’s a bleeding port, I hope not, no pun intended
It should be on the lid, that way you could update them.
Been a spot since I popped a pair of Sram's apart, but I recollect the dial interfacing with another component that interfaced with a threaded unit...
Been a spot since I popped a pair of Sram's apart, but I recollect the dial interfacing with another component that interfaced with a threaded unit that did in turn advance or retreat the MC piston. I could be wrong and if so I expect to be enlightened.
I have this pasted into some notes on brakes (yes, I'm that nerdy), so I'm plagiarizing someone. I think I know who but don't want to...
I have this pasted into some notes on brakes (yes, I'm that nerdy), so I'm plagiarizing someone. I think I know who but don't want to say in case I'm wrong and this is wrong.
"With swinglink, since the initial position of the cam profile doesn't change, the contact adjuster causes the position on the cam profile at which the pads make contact with the rotor to change. The more aggressive the ramp in the cam profile is, the more pronounced the difference in feel based on contact adjust is. The initial portion of the cam profile has decreased leverage so that the gap between the pads and the rotor can close quicker. The cam profile then transitions to higher leverage for increased braking force without an overly stiff lever. When contact adjust is wound all the way in, you transition to the higher leverage portion of the cam a little later relative to when the pads contact the rotor which results in a stiffer feel than if you wind it all the way out."
Thanks for reposting this, great tip. I put some code rsc’s on my e-bike and didn’t know the contact adjustment changed the lever stiffness and power delivery so significantly. Tested today and they feel sweet
Regarding contact adjust, I've read multiple places that the way that works on SRAM RSC-style brakes is different. On those, it changes the rotation of the...
Regarding contact adjust, I've read multiple places that the way that works on SRAM RSC-style brakes is different. On those, it changes the rotation of the eccentric cam that the lever uses to drive the master cylinder piston. This cam has varying amounts of mechanical advantage throughout its rotation. Winding the C adjuster out on these brakes decreases the mechanical advantage, making the lever pull effectively more linear (ratio of lever movement to piston advancement gets closer to 1:1). So the distance you have to pull the lever in order to make the pads contact the rotor gets shorter, but the amount of finger force needed increases because it loses mechanical advantage over the system drag. Conversely if you run the C adjuster all the way in, you gain maximum mechanical advantage so the pull is lighter but has to move further to hit the contact point. Think of a simple lever over fulcrum setup - C adjuster fully out is short lever arm, C adjuster fully in is longer lever arm.
When I used to have Code RSCs, I didn't realize this and ran the C all the way out to make them bite quickest like I was used to from Maguras or Shimanos, and would get wicked arm pump on relatively short descents. Years later after I learned this and got Mavens, I run the C all the way in after a bleed and only adjust outward a little to balance feel, and never get arm pump.
That said, the bite point adjust on other brake systems sometimes works differently (directly advances the MC piston - Hayes' version does this).
Been a spot since I popped a pair of Sram's apart, but I recollect the dial interfacing with another component that interfaced with a threaded unit...
Been a spot since I popped a pair of Sram's apart, but I recollect the dial interfacing with another component that interfaced with a threaded unit that did in turn advance or retreat the MC piston. I could be wrong and if so I expect to be enlightened.
I have this pasted into some notes on brakes (yes, I'm that nerdy), so I'm plagiarizing someone. I think I know who but don't want to...
I have this pasted into some notes on brakes (yes, I'm that nerdy), so I'm plagiarizing someone. I think I know who but don't want to say in case I'm wrong and this is wrong.
"With swinglink, since the initial position of the cam profile doesn't change, the contact adjuster causes the position on the cam profile at which the pads make contact with the rotor to change. The more aggressive the ramp in the cam profile is, the more pronounced the difference in feel based on contact adjust is. The initial portion of the cam profile has decreased leverage so that the gap between the pads and the rotor can close quicker. The cam profile then transitions to higher leverage for increased braking force without an overly stiff lever. When contact adjust is wound all the way in, you transition to the higher leverage portion of the cam a little later relative to when the pads contact the rotor which results in a stiffer feel than if you wind it all the way out."
That was the post I was thinking of, thank you. I also think it was by Cascade Components. I also recall that the Blister Gear Review guy observed the same phenomenon in his review of the Mavens.
Although I think the above reference to "wound all the way in" is the opposite of how the adjuster dials are marked. Winding the adjuster in the direction of the arrow (which says "in") feels higher leverage / easier, and in the opposite direction of the arrow feels lower leverage/harder. I could be wrong though, for reason below.
I was messing around with the dials in my garage after my post & people calling me out, and the other thing I observed was that could be happening is running the C adjuster fully in for the same lever reach position means that the lever locks up the brake when the lever is closer to the bar. And your finger's grip strength becomes greater the closer it gets to a fully closed fist position... think about trying to do a pullup just from your fingertips in a C-shape vs. doing one with them fully wrapped around a pullup bar.
Regardless of whether the cause is from the system or biomechanical, it's less fatiguing to run the contact adjuster inward.
Been a spot since I popped a pair of Sram's apart, but I recollect the dial interfacing with another component that interfaced with a threaded unit...
Been a spot since I popped a pair of Sram's apart, but I recollect the dial interfacing with another component that interfaced with a threaded unit that did in turn advance or retreat the MC piston. I could be wrong and if so I expect to be enlightened.
I have this pasted into some notes on brakes (yes, I'm that nerdy), so I'm plagiarizing someone. I think I know who but don't want to...
I have this pasted into some notes on brakes (yes, I'm that nerdy), so I'm plagiarizing someone. I think I know who but don't want to say in case I'm wrong and this is wrong.
"With swinglink, since the initial position of the cam profile doesn't change, the contact adjuster causes the position on the cam profile at which the pads make contact with the rotor to change. The more aggressive the ramp in the cam profile is, the more pronounced the difference in feel based on contact adjust is. The initial portion of the cam profile has decreased leverage so that the gap between the pads and the rotor can close quicker. The cam profile then transitions to higher leverage for increased braking force without an overly stiff lever. When contact adjust is wound all the way in, you transition to the higher leverage portion of the cam a little later relative to when the pads contact the rotor which results in a stiffer feel than if you wind it all the way out."
That was the post I was thinking of, thank you. I also think it was by Cascade Components. I also recall that the Blister Gear Review...
That was the post I was thinking of, thank you. I also think it was by Cascade Components. I also recall that the Blister Gear Review guy observed the same phenomenon in his review of the Mavens.
Although I think the above reference to "wound all the way in" is the opposite of how the adjuster dials are marked. Winding the adjuster in the direction of the arrow (which says "in") feels higher leverage / easier, and in the opposite direction of the arrow feels lower leverage/harder. I could be wrong though, for reason below.
I was messing around with the dials in my garage after my post & people calling me out, and the other thing I observed was that could be happening is running the C adjuster fully in for the same lever reach position means that the lever locks up the brake when the lever is closer to the bar. And your finger's grip strength becomes greater the closer it gets to a fully closed fist position... think about trying to do a pullup just from your fingertips in a C-shape vs. doing one with them fully wrapped around a pullup bar.
Regardless of whether the cause is from the system or biomechanical, it's less fatiguing to run the contact adjuster inward.
You're welcome. I thought it was Cascade as well, but didn't want to throw a name around without being sure. I think the post means that the longer the lever throw, the more power you get from the swinglink. In other words, it's really about the length of throw rather than how to close to the bar as far as swinglink.
As to where your end / almost locked lever position is relative to the bar, the conventional wisdom I've always heard is that closer to the bar gives you more power and helps with forearm pump and further from the bar gives you more sensitivity or fidelity. But I'd love to hear opinions.
And for all the other OCD people out there who ride with gloves, does having the lever rest further from the bar seem to cause your gloves to bunch up a touch under your palm. I think it's something to do with rotating your hand forward a little bit to grab the lever in the sweet spot of your finger.
Another photo of the Fox USD fork turned up in the rumours thread and I had an opportunity to have a look at the brake mount...
Another photo of the Fox USD fork turned up in the rumours thread and I had an opportunity to have a look at the brake mount treatment.
How sturdy are the brake mounts on these things?
According to Intend and Bright, they are more stiff and aligned than conventional pm mounts, they both say you'd get more power from the same brake setup because of that.
I invertered my bike for 2 hours and opened the caliper port. Sucked out a little air and replaced same volume with fluid.
It’s amazing now
When you say inverted, do you mean this
Or this....
I got my hands on some Maven bases the other day. First impressions after bedding in the rotors and test riding them are that they feel like a slightly more powerful Code, definitely did not have that immediate grab of the Maven silvers. Lever pull did feel a bit lighter, but not as light as my Dominions, and then the bite point was a bit vague and and there was a good amount of squish after the bite.
How did you get the photos from my crash yesterday?
that and "use the search" used to be the standard answer in a good forum back in the day. those times will never come back
I have this pasted into some notes on brakes (yes, I'm that nerdy), so I'm plagiarizing someone. I think I know who but don't want to say in case I'm wrong and this is wrong.
"With swinglink, since the initial position of the cam profile doesn't change, the contact adjuster causes the position on the cam profile at which the pads make contact with the rotor to change. The more aggressive the ramp in the cam profile is, the more pronounced the difference in feel based on contact adjust is. The initial portion of the cam profile has decreased leverage so that the gap between the pads and the rotor can close quicker. The cam profile then transitions to higher leverage for increased braking force without an overly stiff lever. When contact adjust is wound all the way in, you transition to the higher leverage portion of the cam a little later relative to when the pads contact the rotor which results in a stiffer feel than if you wind it all the way out."
Maven Bronze you mean? I'm currently on a pair with a couple of rides on them, they feel about the same in terms of lever squish compared to the Maven ULT (i.e. not much squish at all!). Are you sure they had a good bleed?
Nope, I mean maven base. Came stock on the Sram 90 build Hightower that we got in. I'm pretty confident in the bleed, since I did it myself haha. I will say I did not do the piston massage, but there was no inconsistency in the feel or pull at the lever. Maven bases use the direct link lever, instead of the swing link, which is probably the major reason they don't feel like the ultimates where the bronze do. I haven't been able to do any real trail riding on them, but I bed in the pads (metallic) and gave them as good of a power test as I could riding around outside the shop. The Maven ults had that "holy shit" power and bite, where the bases delivered way more gradually, felt like a code rsc, but the power came on a bit faster and stronger. Definitely not a bad brake, one of the best from sram and a good price too.
It's the piston sizing, the base has lower hydraulic leverage with 4 18mm pistons vs the rest of the lineup with 2 19.5mm and 2 18mm pistons. Its a lower power brake by design.
How big are the pistons in Maven Base brakes? – SRAM
Oh yeah, I forgot those even existed...tired old brain can't keep up! Thanks for clarifying.
Technically possible, you're using the diaphragm to pump in and out. But you're severely limited in the volume you can pump in and out and limited by how well the air flows into the caliper. Plus it's quite easy to catch some air in the caliper as well if it's not Sram bleeding edge-esque (they have a full loop through the caliper so both sides can be bled nicely).
Good for you it's all well now, but while technically possible, this method has a bunch of caveats that make it prone to make inadequate bleeds.
Pretty sure this is @CascadeComponents material.
Yes, cannot do a brand new bleed like this. It's for the last bit of air.
Truely awesome now. Why can't they just just a bleeding edge port on lever and caliper?
They as in Hope? Other than Sram nobody does the bleeding edge. But yes, a world full of bleeding edges would be a wonderful world. It does take up quite a lot of space depth wise so I guess that is part of the reason why it's not used on the levers (Sram makes flippy-floppy levers and that would require two bleeding edges).
Radic Kaha have Bleeding edge, i don't understand the hype around it to be honest but happy to be enlightened. It doesn't feel a 100% success rate bleeding system to me.
Hopes actually are good to bleed if you excuse the last step. You don't actually need a kit in a pinch and you can do it with the pads in.
Wonder if you could mod a v4 resi to the same as a maxima one with the port on the vertical outside edge of the reservoir.
i guess you could by drilling a hole and threading it with a nice bolt, possibly one from another manufacturer, it's all alloy at the end of the day, and placing it in the right spot so that the diaphragm doesn't trap any air, opposite of what lewis did making sure air gets trapped by positioning the bleed hole in the worst spot
Or I guess we can wait patiently for v5 levers 🤷
Actually looks like you could get a good angle by just orienting the brake lever fully downwards. That bleed port (if that’s what it is) would pretty much be at the highest point of the reservoir in that position. And there’s nothing around the inside of the reaervoir to trap air there.
it's all speculation of course, but from this picture it's not at the highest point, therefore air can be trapped under the diaphragm, we'll see
Seems like an afterthought--disappointing
It should be on the lid, that way you could update them.
That would be pretty ugly, but more importantly it wouldn’t work because the diaphragm sits there, right under the cover.
I’ll wait for v6s if that’s it for v5s
Thanks for reposting this, great tip. I put some code rsc’s on my e-bike and didn’t know the contact adjustment changed the lever stiffness and power delivery so significantly. Tested today and they feel sweet
That was the post I was thinking of, thank you. I also think it was by Cascade Components. I also recall that the Blister Gear Review guy observed the same phenomenon in his review of the Mavens.
Although I think the above reference to "wound all the way in" is the opposite of how the adjuster dials are marked. Winding the adjuster in the direction of the arrow (which says "in") feels higher leverage / easier, and in the opposite direction of the arrow feels lower leverage/harder. I could be wrong though, for reason below.
I was messing around with the dials in my garage after my post & people calling me out, and the other thing I observed was that could be happening is running the C adjuster fully in for the same lever reach position means that the lever locks up the brake when the lever is closer to the bar. And your finger's grip strength becomes greater the closer it gets to a fully closed fist position... think about trying to do a pullup just from your fingertips in a C-shape vs. doing one with them fully wrapped around a pullup bar.
Regardless of whether the cause is from the system or biomechanical, it's less fatiguing to run the contact adjuster inward.
You're welcome. I thought it was Cascade as well, but didn't want to throw a name around without being sure. I think the post means that the longer the lever throw, the more power you get from the swinglink. In other words, it's really about the length of throw rather than how to close to the bar as far as swinglink.
As to where your end / almost locked lever position is relative to the bar, the conventional wisdom I've always heard is that closer to the bar gives you more power and helps with forearm pump and further from the bar gives you more sensitivity or fidelity. But I'd love to hear opinions.
And for all the other OCD people out there who ride with gloves, does having the lever rest further from the bar seem to cause your gloves to bunch up a touch under your palm. I think it's something to do with rotating your hand forward a little bit to grab the lever in the sweet spot of your finger.
Another photo of the Fox USD fork turned up in the rumours thread and I had an opportunity to have a look at the brake mount treatment.
How sturdy are the brake mounts on these things?
According to Intend and Bright, they are more stiff and aligned than conventional pm mounts, they both say you'd get more power from the same brake setup because of that.
Post a reply to: Nerding out on Brakes shall we? Not another tech deraliment