long time reader first time poster here..friends of mine are developing an vacuum bleeder for shocks and fork dampers to fully service your suspension at home...
long time reader first time poster here..
friends of mine are developing an vacuum bleeder for shocks and fork dampers to fully service your suspension at home, without the need of messy handbleeding.
I just got the chance to try the machine myself and it works pretty straight forward. I thought i spread the word in here because i think this is a pretty cool innovation in the mtb tech for home mechanics/ race day applications etc.
Wow this is awesome. One thing I've always wondered, why don't we use vacuum pumps for brake bleeds? You can just fill the tank with mineral or...
Wow this is awesome.
One thing I've always wondered, why don't we use vacuum pumps for brake bleeds? You can just fill the tank with mineral or dot and attach it onto the master cylinder and away you go. The commercial vacuum bleeder fox recommends has 4 tanks for different fluids already
Was literally about to post this. One of my LBS has one and uses them for bleeding all the TRP stuff they sell. Seems to work but also seems a bit pointless to me considering a regular bleed on most decent brake systems takes 5 to 10 minutes.
It looks just as terrible as the Fox Version, Why do we need such a big 'wart' Looking thing halfway up the seat tube.....I want a...
It looks just as terrible as the Fox Version, Why do we need such a big 'wart' Looking thing halfway up the seat tube.....
I want a wireless dropper but i dont want either of those 2 ugly things, especially because i want 240mm drop and the ability to slam the post....
Im happy to pay those prices when a brand can actually design one that doesnt look terrible.
I can't believe we don't have an online conversion kit for reg posts using a servo that pulls the cable at the bottom of the post from anyone. Archer would have set the world on fire with that instead of half mechanical shifting.
long time reader first time poster here..friends of mine are developing an vacuum bleeder for shocks and fork dampers to fully service your suspension at home...
long time reader first time poster here..
friends of mine are developing an vacuum bleeder for shocks and fork dampers to fully service your suspension at home, without the need of messy handbleeding.
I just got the chance to try the machine myself and it works pretty straight forward. I thought i spread the word in here because i think this is a pretty cool innovation in the mtb tech for home mechanics/ race day applications etc.
Wow this is awesome. One thing I've always wondered, why don't we use vacuum pumps for brake bleeds? You can just fill the tank with mineral or...
Wow this is awesome.
One thing I've always wondered, why don't we use vacuum pumps for brake bleeds? You can just fill the tank with mineral or dot and attach it onto the master cylinder and away you go. The commercial vacuum bleeder fox recommends has 4 tanks for different fluids already
I am sure it would have to do with the master cylinder bladder. Would be cool though.
What would it have to do with the master cylinder bladder? You're vacuum and pressure bleeding brakes with dual syringes anyway. Granted, Shimano 'strongly recommends' against pressure bleeding, apparently because their locking nut covering/fixing in place the membrane has a poker in it that punctures the membrane if put under pressure. Which means you arrive with your shiny, fancy XTR brakes to a fly-out destination with leaking brakes and have to bleed them twice or three times a day just to have them work.
But that's idiotic design of the brake, not a problem with vacuum bleeding.
FWIW, I was asking about the same thing in the brakes thread a few days ago (even though about how to plumb everything) and thought this home mechanic bleeder might be used for that too. No problems with mineral oil, the only question is if it works with DOT fluid.
batteries are round, seatpost is round, put round battery in round tube.Until that is achieved, I will suffer with my tiny bit of cable going from...
batteries are round, seatpost is round, put round battery in round tube.
Until that is achieved, I will suffer with my tiny bit of cable going from my head tube to handlebar.
The battery will likely add to the length of the post, and could be a show stopper with the current trend for the longest possible post. The wireless receiver circuitry also need to be outside metal, so placing it with the battery either at the seat clamp or the collar is natural. Relocating the battery and replacing it with a charging port is an alternative.
On e-bikes a post should/could have connection to the main battery/controller for the ultimate in clean look and integration.
I was going to give you an upvote for your post until you gave the e-bike a shudder. Get over it, they are here to stay. How is Magura’s Veyron these days? I had one like 8 ish years ago and it wasn’t bad at all.
I was going to give you an upvote for your post until you gave the e-bike a shudder. Get over it, they are here to stay...
I was going to give you an upvote for your post until you gave the e-bike a shudder. Get over it, they are here to stay. How is Magura’s Veyron these days? I had one like 8 ish years ago and it wasn’t bad at all.
I have edited my post and removed the shudder, so now I can get an upvote ;-P I know e-bikes are contentious and can sparks long discussions, so let us keep that out of this rumor thread. (I will still stand for my opinion.)
I love than we have a proper rumor thread and look forward to finally getting mechanical Transmission for my Yeti ARC frame.
there is so much unused space under the saddle, more than enough to fit an external battery
To maximize drop, the stack height needs to be as low and the internals as compact as possible. The battery on Reverb AXS has had problems with contact to the rear tire on a few frames when bottoming out. A different solution might solve it, but probably not with the current AXS battery.. The solutions of the new and less attractive posts may be optimal.
Alternatively the battery could be located under the saddle, but in front. It would then need to extend forward and downwards so it clears the seat clamp/downtube. The battery and connections would be out if the way, but could resemble a single ball hanging underneath the saddle..
And people grabbing/lifting the bike by the saddle would have a fit as this would not be possible anymore. Plus saddles with a short/stubby nose could be shorter than the batter, thick thighs could rub on the battery, etc.
It really does look like this collar position might be the best...
I get that Transmission shifts better than mechanical derailleurs, but do wireless dropper posts have any tangible benefit over cable actuated posts other than removing a cable from the cockpit? And now they are adding a bulbous module to the seatpost which negates the aesthetic reasoning.
Easy and consistent push button activation and very easy/quick move between bikes are the advantages of going wireless. No maintenance on the cable, but the need for charging the battery as well as replace remote battery instead. The cost of going wireless is exorbitant.
A post connected directly to the main battery/controller on e-bikes would match a cable actuated dropper in aesthetics. I think the current Reverb AXS looks nice.
Easy removal is the prime one. Easy and consistent push button activation is more of a no for me as it's either go or no go, no inbetween. Most mechanical posts allow you to feather the speed of return (at least) by not pulling on the lever to the full stop.
To maximize drop, the stack height needs to be as low and the internals as compact as possible. The battery on Reverb AXS has had problems...
To maximize drop, the stack height needs to be as low and the internals as compact as possible. The battery on Reverb AXS has had problems with contact to the rear tire on a few frames when bottoming out. A different solution might solve it, but probably not with the current AXS battery.. The solutions of the new and less attractive posts may be optimal.
Alternatively the battery could be located under the saddle, but in front. It would then need to extend forward and downwards so it clears the seat clamp/downtube. The battery and connections would be out if the way, but could resemble a single ball hanging underneath the saddle..
Then it would get in the way of the Aenomaly Constructs Switchgrade and it would be a no go for me for sure!!!
I was going to give you an upvote for your post until you gave the e-bike a shudder. Get over it, they are here to stay...
I was going to give you an upvote for your post until you gave the e-bike a shudder. Get over it, they are here to stay. How is Magura’s Veyron these days? I had one like 8 ish years ago and it wasn’t bad at all.
I have edited my post and removed the shudder, so now I can get an upvote ;-P I know e-bikes are contentious and can sparks long...
I have edited my post and removed the shudder, so now I can get an upvote ;-P I know e-bikes are contentious and can sparks long discussions, so let us keep that out of this rumor thread. (I will still stand for my opinion.)
I love than we have a proper rumor thread and look forward to finally getting mechanical Transmission for my Yeti ARC frame.
Upvote placed my good man!! I do not own an e-bike but they are a ton of fun to go rip around on!! Have you rode one yet?
I can't believe we don't have an online conversion kit for reg posts using a servo that pulls the cable at the bottom of the post...
I can't believe we don't have an online conversion kit for reg posts using a servo that pulls the cable at the bottom of the post from anyone. Archer would have set the world on fire with that instead of half mechanical shifting.
I actually messaged archer with this idea years ago and they said it was already in the works. Guessing they were bs’ing or funds dried up before it could become a reality. Someone jump on this idea!
there is so much unused space under the saddle, more than enough to fit an external battery
Too many variables across manufacturers to implement this. Whether you realize it or not, the rails and design of a saddle allow it to flex to give you a bit of compliance. Obviously, some saddles more than others.Trying to stuff something into an already tight adjustment area would make a really comfortable saddle extremely uncomfortable.
Haven’t seen it for quite a while, but two bolt clamp designs on slacker seat angle bikes used to inevitably have the front bolt poking the bottom of the seat. Used to see a lot of bikes come in the shop like this, and the owners didn’t actually know what was happening. Shorter bolt and problem solved.
there is so much unused space under the saddle, more than enough to fit an external battery
It's actually crazy how much stuff I have zip tied/taped under my saddle. Tile tracker, extra One Up pump strap, extra derailleur hanger, extra shift cable (could go away with beep boops)
Wouldn't give up the space my Switchgrade takes up for a battery in an electronic dropper though. How cool would it be to have control of the Switchgrade on your bars? It'd certainly have to be electronic since some bike companies can't even be bothered to put one cable hole in the frame let alone (gasp) two! I'd deal with the fugly battery jutting out from the post for that control from my bars.
I get that Transmission shifts better than mechanical derailleurs, but do wireless dropper posts have any tangible benefit over cable actuated posts other than removing a...
I get that Transmission shifts better than mechanical derailleurs, but do wireless dropper posts have any tangible benefit over cable actuated posts other than removing a cable from the cockpit? And now they are adding a bulbous module to the seatpost which negates the aesthetic reasoning.
It sounds like you haven’t changed a lot of cable/housings on droppers.
…Especially on an E bike. Some frames you damn near have to take the bike completely apart to change it. Having a wireless dropper that you just pop it in the hole like a normal post sounds heavenly in these cases.
It's actually crazy how much stuff I have zip tied/taped under my saddle. Tile tracker, extra One Up pump strap, extra derailleur hanger, extra shift cable...
It's actually crazy how much stuff I have zip tied/taped under my saddle. Tile tracker, extra One Up pump strap, extra derailleur hanger, extra shift cable (could go away with beep boops)
Wouldn't give up the space my Switchgrade takes up for a battery in an electronic dropper though. How cool would it be to have control of the Switchgrade on your bars? It'd certainly have to be electronic since some bike companies can't even be bothered to put one cable hole in the frame let alone (gasp) two! I'd deal with the fugly battery jutting out from the post for that control from my bars.
I can't believe we don't have an online conversion kit for reg posts using a servo that pulls the cable at the bottom of the post...
I can't believe we don't have an online conversion kit for reg posts using a servo that pulls the cable at the bottom of the post from anyone. Archer would have set the world on fire with that instead of half mechanical shifting.
Supposedly a company called https://ogbikeworks.com/ is developing one; they claim they were working with Bike Yoke on theirs before it got delayed/cancelled:
Big ol' caveats, 1. It's MTBR: 2. If you read through subsequent posts it sounds like Bikeworks may be a little flaky, so grain of salt and all that 3. Their site isn't very confidence inspiring
"Exciting News from OG Bikeworks! We are OG Bikeworks, creators of the actuator technology. Due to unresolved contractual matters, we are no longer collaborating with BikeYoke. However, we’re thrilled to announce the upcoming release of an aftermarket wireless dropper kit! Our kit features the same core technology as what was shown at Eurobike but comes with some key improvements, including a sleek forged aluminum remote compatible with popular mounting systems like Matchmaker. This kit will allow you to convert your existing BikeYoke dropper to wireless operation—no more cables! (Patents Pending) Expected Release: 6 months Estimated MSRP: $120 USD Stay tuned for more updates—we’re excited to bring this game-changing technology to the MTB world!"
I get that Transmission shifts better than mechanical derailleurs, but do wireless dropper posts have any tangible benefit over cable actuated posts other than removing a...
I get that Transmission shifts better than mechanical derailleurs, but do wireless dropper posts have any tangible benefit over cable actuated posts other than removing a cable from the cockpit? And now they are adding a bulbous module to the seatpost which negates the aesthetic reasoning.
It sounds like you haven’t changed a lot of cable/housings on droppers. …Especially on an E bike. Some frames you damn near have to take the bike...
It sounds like you haven’t changed a lot of cable/housings on droppers.
…Especially on an E bike. Some frames you damn near have to take the bike completely apart to change it. Having a wireless dropper that you just pop it in the hole like a normal post sounds heavenly in these cases.
I guess for E bikes that makes sense for some people. I tend to drive on salty roads to get to trails so I swap cables pretty frequently when they get sticky. Personally the beauty of bikes are that you can accomplish everything with a mechanical system that I can work on at home. I'd rather spend an hour fishing cables through my frame (or better yet using external routing on 3 out of 4 of my bikes) than re flowing solder on surface mount microcontrollers or scraping off corrosion from battery contacts.
One of the things I think is really amazing about the whole mtb thing is that IT IS ALL compromises.
Hardtail? Short travel? Long travel? 32 fork? 38 fork? 40? Forekaster? Assegai? Kryptotal?
There is no one singular answer for anything.
How much post travel would you be willing to give up for a more ideal (whatever that is to you) battery situation with your dropper post?
I'm blessed (?) with shorter legs and thickly muscular thighs. I've rubbed the little patch of printing off my saddle rail and I can feel the asymmetry of the item I have strapped to my seat tube. I think I could give up 20mm max for my dropper travel. I don't think that's enough to do anything different. At the end of the day, I think I'd prefer the design that's on Hildred's bike over giving up some of the drop on my bike.
My fs frame allows me 180mm currently and it's WILD compared to the 125mm that I started with on a different bike. I don't think that I couldn't go back (yes, the double negative is intentional) but I definitely wouldn't want to.
I wonder if we'll ever see a seatpost clamp with the battery built into it? You could have a small channel running down the length of the outside of the seat post (ideally cover it up but we're talking about super tight tolerances and serviceability) to run a replaceable ribbon cable to connect the battery to the mechanism. That cable being free to have its slack sit deeper into the seat tube would give you a solid connection with no problem of how high the dropper collar is above the clamp. It's still a large chunk of something on your seatpost but it's not additional growth to accompany the existing seatpost clamp.
I'm sure there's something I'm missing about this idea that clearly makes it impossible. I didn't ever claim to be an engineer.
Easy and consistent push button activation and very easy/quick move between bikes are the advantages of going wireless. No maintenance on the cable, but the need...
Easy and consistent push button activation and very easy/quick move between bikes are the advantages of going wireless. No maintenance on the cable, but the need for charging the battery as well as replace remote battery instead. The cost of going wireless is exorbitant.
A post connected directly to the main battery/controller on e-bikes would match a cable actuated dropper in aesthetics. I think the current Reverb AXS looks nice.
Ironically, for the cost of 1 electronic dropper, you could buy 3 normal droppers and wouldn't need to swap anything.
Bikers will buy the most stupid sh*t and electronic droppers is at the top of that list.
Was literally about to post this. One of my LBS has one and uses them for bleeding all the TRP stuff they sell. Seems to work but also seems a bit pointless to me considering a regular bleed on most decent brake systems takes 5 to 10 minutes.
Cannondale's new gravel bike comes with Reserve wheels. Interesting how they will try to differentiate themselves from Santa Cruz.
https://www.cannondale.com/en-us/bikes/road/gravel/superx/superx-lab71
Taken from Ben’s most recent instagram post.
Looks like the new reverb battery hides just under the seat away from the sides when in the dropped position.
Also somewhat of different view of the code / maven callipers (not rounded like production more boxy).
It looks just as terrible as the Fox Version, Why do we need such a big 'wart' Looking thing halfway up the seat tube.....
I want a wireless dropper but i dont want either of those 2 ugly things, especially because i want 240mm drop and the ability to slam the post....
Im happy to pay those prices when a brand can actually design one that doesnt look terrible.
I can't believe we don't have an online conversion kit for reg posts using a servo that pulls the cable at the bottom of the post from anyone. Archer would have set the world on fire with that instead of half mechanical shifting.
What would it have to do with the master cylinder bladder? You're vacuum and pressure bleeding brakes with dual syringes anyway. Granted, Shimano 'strongly recommends' against pressure bleeding, apparently because their locking nut covering/fixing in place the membrane has a poker in it that punctures the membrane if put under pressure. Which means you arrive with your shiny, fancy XTR brakes to a fly-out destination with leaking brakes and have to bleed them twice or three times a day just to have them work.
But that's idiotic design of the brake, not a problem with vacuum bleeding.
FWIW, I was asking about the same thing in the brakes thread a few days ago (even though about how to plumb everything) and thought this home mechanic bleeder might be used for that too. No problems with mineral oil, the only question is if it works with DOT fluid.
batteries are round, seatpost is round, put round battery in round tube.
Until that is achieved, I will suffer with my tiny bit of cable going from my head tube to handlebar.
The battery will likely add to the length of the post, and could be a show stopper with the current trend for the longest possible post. The wireless receiver circuitry also need to be outside metal, so placing it with the battery either at the seat clamp or the collar is natural. Relocating the battery and replacing it with a charging port is an alternative.
On e-bikes a post should/could have connection to the main battery/controller for the ultimate in clean look and integration.
I was going to give you an upvote for your post until you gave the e-bike a shudder. Get over it, they are here to stay. How is Magura’s Veyron these days? I had one like 8 ish years ago and it wasn’t bad at all.
I have edited my post and removed the shudder, so now I can get an upvote ;-P I know e-bikes are contentious and can sparks long discussions, so let us keep that out of this rumor thread. (I will still stand for my opinion.)
I love than we have a proper rumor thread and look forward to finally getting mechanical Transmission for my Yeti ARC frame.
there is so much unused space under the saddle, more than enough to fit an external battery
Santa Cruz and Cannodale belong to same group of Company. so there will be no need for difference.
To maximize drop, the stack height needs to be as low and the internals as compact as possible. The battery on Reverb AXS has had problems with contact to the rear tire on a few frames when bottoming out. A different solution might solve it, but probably not with the current AXS battery.. The solutions of the new and less attractive posts may be optimal.
Alternatively the battery could be located under the saddle, but in front. It would then need to extend forward and downwards so it clears the seat clamp/downtube. The battery and connections would be out if the way, but could resemble a single ball hanging underneath the saddle..
And people grabbing/lifting the bike by the saddle would have a fit as this would not be possible anymore. Plus saddles with a short/stubby nose could be shorter than the batter, thick thighs could rub on the battery, etc.
It really does look like this collar position might be the best...
I get that Transmission shifts better than mechanical derailleurs, but do wireless dropper posts have any tangible benefit over cable actuated posts other than removing a cable from the cockpit? And now they are adding a bulbous module to the seatpost which negates the aesthetic reasoning.
Easy and consistent push button activation and very easy/quick move between bikes are the advantages of going wireless. No maintenance on the cable, but the need for charging the battery as well as replace remote battery instead. The cost of going wireless is exorbitant.
A post connected directly to the main battery/controller on e-bikes would match a cable actuated dropper in aesthetics. I think the current Reverb AXS looks nice.
Easy removal is the prime one. Easy and consistent push button activation is more of a no for me as it's either go or no go, no inbetween. Most mechanical posts allow you to feather the speed of return (at least) by not pulling on the lever to the full stop.
Then it would get in the way of the Aenomaly Constructs Switchgrade and it would be a no go for me for sure!!!
Upvote placed my good man!! I do not own an e-bike but they are a ton of fun to go rip around on!! Have you rode one yet?
I'd give you a thumbs up, but I want that count to stay at 32 because irony.
I actually messaged archer with this idea years ago and they said it was already in the works. Guessing they were bs’ing or funds dried up before it could become a reality. Someone jump on this idea!
Too many variables across manufacturers to implement this. Whether you realize it or not, the rails and design of a saddle allow it to flex to give you a bit of compliance. Obviously, some saddles more than others.Trying to stuff something into an already tight adjustment area would make a really comfortable saddle extremely uncomfortable.
Haven’t seen it for quite a while, but two bolt clamp designs on slacker seat angle bikes used to inevitably have the front bolt poking the bottom of the seat. Used to see a lot of bikes come in the shop like this, and the owners didn’t actually know what was happening. Shorter bolt and problem solved.
It's actually crazy how much stuff I have zip tied/taped under my saddle. Tile tracker, extra One Up pump strap, extra derailleur hanger, extra shift cable (could go away with beep boops)
Wouldn't give up the space my Switchgrade takes up for a battery in an electronic dropper though. How cool would it be to have control of the Switchgrade on your bars? It'd certainly have to be electronic since some bike companies can't even be bothered to put one cable hole in the frame let alone (gasp) two! I'd deal with the fugly battery jutting out from the post for that control from my bars.
It sounds like you haven’t changed a lot of cable/housings on droppers.
…Especially on an E bike. Some frames you damn near have to take the bike completely apart to change it. Having a wireless dropper that you just pop it in the hole like a normal post sounds heavenly in these cases.
I Iike the way you roll Sir!!!👊
Supposedly a company called https://ogbikeworks.com/ is developing one; they claim they were working with Bike Yoke on theirs before it got delayed/cancelled:
Big ol' caveats, 1. It's MTBR: 2. If you read through subsequent posts it sounds like Bikeworks may be a little flaky, so grain of salt and all that 3. Their site isn't very confidence inspiring
"Exciting News from OG Bikeworks!
We are OG Bikeworks, creators of the actuator technology. Due to unresolved contractual matters, we are no longer collaborating with BikeYoke. However, we’re thrilled to announce the upcoming release of an aftermarket wireless dropper kit!
Our kit features the same core technology as what was shown at Eurobike but comes with some key improvements, including a sleek forged aluminum remote compatible with popular mounting systems like Matchmaker. This kit will allow you to convert your existing BikeYoke dropper to wireless operation—no more cables! (Patents Pending)
Expected Release: 6 months
Estimated MSRP: $120 USD
Stay tuned for more updates—we’re excited to bring this game-changing technology to the MTB world!"
Source: https://www.mtbr.com/threads/bikeyoke-wireless.1233215/post-16376432
I guess for E bikes that makes sense for some people. I tend to drive on salty roads to get to trails so I swap cables pretty frequently when they get sticky. Personally the beauty of bikes are that you can accomplish everything with a mechanical system that I can work on at home. I'd rather spend an hour fishing cables through my frame (or better yet using external routing on 3 out of 4 of my bikes) than re flowing solder on surface mount microcontrollers or scraping off corrosion from battery contacts.
One of the things I think is really amazing about the whole mtb thing is that IT IS ALL compromises.
Hardtail? Short travel? Long travel? 32 fork? 38 fork? 40? Forekaster? Assegai? Kryptotal?
There is no one singular answer for anything.
How much post travel would you be willing to give up for a more ideal (whatever that is to you) battery situation with your dropper post?
I'm blessed (?) with shorter legs and thickly muscular thighs. I've rubbed the little patch of printing off my saddle rail and I can feel the asymmetry of the item I have strapped to my seat tube. I think I could give up 20mm max for my dropper travel. I don't think that's enough to do anything different. At the end of the day, I think I'd prefer the design that's on Hildred's bike over giving up some of the drop on my bike.
My fs frame allows me 180mm currently and it's WILD compared to the 125mm that I started with on a different bike. I don't think that I couldn't go back (yes, the double negative is intentional) but I definitely wouldn't want to.
Another thought:
I wonder if we'll ever see a seatpost clamp with the battery built into it? You could have a small channel running down the length of the outside of the seat post (ideally cover it up but we're talking about super tight tolerances and serviceability) to run a replaceable ribbon cable to connect the battery to the mechanism. That cable being free to have its slack sit deeper into the seat tube would give you a solid connection with no problem of how high the dropper collar is above the clamp. It's still a large chunk of something on your seatpost but it's not additional growth to accompany the existing seatpost clamp.
I'm sure there's something I'm missing about this idea that clearly makes it impossible. I didn't ever claim to be an engineer.
Ironically, for the cost of 1 electronic dropper, you could buy 3 normal droppers and wouldn't need to swap anything.
Bikers will buy the most stupid sh*t and electronic droppers is at the top of that list.