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Actually got to ride a Kavenz with an Effigear yesterday. Having to stop pedalling to achieve a shift to a lighter gear is weird. I guess you'd get used to it but the parking lot test just makes you think the gearbox doesn't work as it keeps the same gear until you let up on the pedals. The guy even had the the chainring on the freehub ziptied to the spokes so the wheel drives the chain to make shifting easier. Without it he would have to backpedal to change to a lighter gear.
The double lap joint is there to ensure a correct application of the adhesive. If you apply it into the groove and push in the tube, the tube will likely be wetted (and this glued) all around the circumference both inside and outside the tube. With a single tube in a single tube it's possible to just scrape off the glue by pushing the tubes together.
What do you guys think of Rulezman's zero pedal kickback idler pulley design? It only works with Banshee V3 frames and is mounted to the iscg-05 tabs, but I honestly would want one on my bike despite having a bit more drag when pedaling. It seems to do exactly what an Ochain is trying to accomplish but for much less money. If only there was someone out there who could desgin one for different bikes.
So...I can't search 20+ pages of data. The one post where you guys posted the review of the Maven's where the guy basically concluded they were awful & he couldn't get a gorilla to actuate the lever.....was he the only one?
I doubt it’s galvanic corrosion, I would bet money on it that the aluminum oxidized and wasn’t treated before they applied the adhesive to the substrate. There could be saponification happening, but usually that only happens with some amine compounds when interacting with a substrate containing zinc, so I highly doubt that’s the case.
A common misconception is that aluminum doesn’t oxidized, but it actually oxidizes (depending on the alloy) within minutes when exposed to oxygen. Anyone familiar with bonding aluminum should be well aware of this. We glue exotic road cars and race cars together all day with no problems. Devils in the details.
https://www.instagram.com/reel/C4nWS3yMdNv/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
The pressure.police wins the internet today
RIP John Clarke
I am glad Pivot has decided cardboard is indeed not the material they want to make bikes with.
Dudes beat me to it. I had this idea around 3 years ago when a teammate was complaining about the rear end of his Process X feeling stiffer under pedal load. Was trying to rig something up but he ended up breaking the bike, probably for the better...
They do have slightly different effects, i.e. the idler reduces/cancels anti-squat permanently, while the o-chain is a chain growth buffer that doesn't interfere when you're pedalling.
A universal kit might be something like a rail to adjust the idler position, maybe also some angle adjustment on the ISCG mount, and would need to be built strong enough to handle the loads. The Rulezman kit is pretty beefy as it is without any adjustment.
The Rulezman idler will change the anti-squat character of your bike. So depending on what bike it could make it pedal better or worse. If you are just riding DH, not that big of a deal.
oChain will reduce the pedal kick and vibration to your feet. But you will have slack when first starting to pedal. It will also keep your bike at the designed Anti Squat character.
you can see in the graphs that he designed it for more pedal efficiency and less pedal kick on the Banshee. But this won’t be the case on all frames
An oxide layer on aluminium forms in the range of picoseconds under barely any (oxygen) atmosphere if I remember the graph seen at work quite a few years ago correctly.
how is less anti squat better for pedaling? by looking at the graph i don't see how the bike with the backplate would pedal better than stock
Too much antisquat might prevent squatting when pedalling, but will in turn cause the bike to rise when pushing on the pedals. The end effect is the same. Pedal bob.
so remi is also on that black 38, same as richies was seen. seems like a new chassis incoming maybe? last time fox did that it was when the 38 was coming.
There’s a Fox embargo until April and/or May.
Gone are the days when embargos are a defined date
I stared at one the other day at Crankworks on a sb160 from the yeti team
honestly I was pretty close and I couldn’t tell the difference in the look from a current gen 38
the only thing is that the sticker on the right leg close to the rebound now says grip 2
it was saying “grip” but clearly was a 4 way adjustment deal like the grip 2
so don’t know what’s going on
couldn‘t make out any difference on all the pics i have seen. embargo might be the new dampers, but maybe there‘s also a new airspring which needs a new chassis, but just looks same as the current one.
Yup, Fight Attendant on a DH bike. Only going to be on the top handful of RS riders rides... for now. "Supposedly" will never be for sale to the public. I want to say that's BS, but then again, the short cage AXS DH derailleur has never been an option.
When it comes to gearboxes, you can totally climb and shift. It's one of the slight technique adjustments required. Takes only a few minutes to practice, but maybe a few rides to commit to muscle memory. The bigger issue I found was shifting while standing in anticipation of the next section of trail. Twisting the shifter while standing during a fast downhill is a real poo-inducing experience. The Cinq triggers fixed that but introduced a whole other set of problems. I do wonder how quickly Smart Shift changes gears though, cause the gripshift is fantastic for extremely quick shifts. Gearboxes aren't for everyone and every application, but they can be pretty fantastic in the right applications. I can't see them every being popular in say XC racing, but they've got a much wider application than people think.
Shifting the Pinion is not the same as shifting the Effigear in the regard as I'm led to believe. With pinion it's a mater of force to move the mechanism. With Effigear the internals literally have to free up the shifting mechanism to shift. It's not only letting up on the power like in Pinions case, the output has to "overtake" the input, then the shift happens. That's why Cavaliere bikes use a concentric pivot to the output (which is not concentric to the crank axis) and a hub without a freehub. Because otherwise (or if you don't ziptie the sprocket to the hub) you have to literally backpedal to release the mechanism.
with how polished the inside of the lug is, there seems to have no galvanic corrosion, just improper technic.
The lug should've been roughed up on the inside with 150 grit, so the glue would have something to adhere to.
They are doing their testing VERY publicly. Given they put their most prized 'possessions', the factory WC team riders, on the prototypes, says they must have quite some confidence in the product. That it failed is neither here nor there, as I recall there was somewhat recently a case of a GT's headtube snapping off, wasn't that a production bike?
Guessing what went wrong based off some blurry videos and pictures won't solve the issue in any way, I'm sure Pivot received tons of pictures of the failure and it's likely the frame has been shipped back to Phoenix for a more thorough analysis as we are talking about it here. And if there was a design issue, I'm sure it will be fixed in the next iteration. likewise if it was a production process issue.
Looks like he has an AXS controller on the left side and a mechanical shifter.
Could he be controlling/adjusting the forks damping?
Take that Loic
Seems like the lever has a bit of a breakaway feel to get the swing link to move kind of like Shimano. Once the lever is engaged though, the perceived feel is pretty light since there is a ridiculous amount of power on tap. It kind of reminds me of a Hope Tech 3 if you’ve ever experienced those.
I personally think they feel this way because-
They want the lever to be really durable,
The firm feel keeps down the accidental panic breaking
The seals are stiff and so is the spring.
I installed a pair and didn’t notice the firmness in a parking lot ride, I was mostly consumed by the insane power. Haven’t ridden them off road yet.
I had a set of TRP DHR EVO’s and couldn’t ride them with the lever being so far from the grip. Made them feel “unrideable and gave me arm pump” even though the lever pull is light and the feel was great. Once I filed a couple threads off of the barrel I could adjust them closer and they were awesome.
Just an example of personal preference having a huge impact on performance.
Seems like that YouTube goober had set them up strangely to replicate his old brakes. Not saying he’s wrong but I bet these can be set up really close to the bar (Which makes the Code feel less than confidence inspiring) and feel great but people have SRAM notions that a Maven should be set up differently.
Make sense?
Flight attendant can be controlled by axs pods, yes. That's part of the reason there's only one pod design for Transmission with two buttons as it can be mounted to either side of the bar. The left hand controller can control the dropper and/or flight attendant.
This reflects my experiences with them, as well.
The YouTuber was Dale Stone, but he's a super light rider (~160lbs) coming off Intend brakes. He went straight to metallic pads. As far as I can tell, he didn't adjust the contact point at all or spend any time trying different rotor/pad combinations. SRAM pointed out that you'd need to test these with different rotor/pad combinations because the power and bite point is so much more progressive than most other offerings, which again reflects my experience. The heavier riders I know on these brakes are, for the first time, dialing the contact point in due to the power and progression. You really need to go in expecting to need to tweak these or you'll have a bad time, especially lighter riders, who these flat out may not work for unless they are on an insanely heavy bike
Yes, the lever has more force right off the top than other brakes, but I really didn't find it that significant. All brakes are going to ramp up force once you hit the contact point with the pads, this force increase (on all but the Maximas and maybe Hope T4 V4) is going to require more hand strength than the Mavens do through their deadstroke, this is where most hand fatigue problems are going to come from. In other words, if you can't manage to pull through the deadstroke on the Mavens, I'd be surprised if you can brake at all unless you are on the two brakes I list above. IMO it's really not that firm feeling and this coming from someone with chronic hand fatigue problems.
I found they reduced my hand fatigue (which is significant for me at times) simply because I could feather the bite point and obtain more power for less pull once they engage. IMO there are legitimate complaints about them, they are hideous and obscenely large, but the lever feel isn't one of them. The progression of power is manageable but really strong if the contact point is left all the way out, they are some of the more powerful brakes I've owned, but it's hard to tell if it's overall power or simply that they are more progressive.
I'd also point out that Intends have a very light stroke, so do Trickstuff. Going from those to any mass produced brake except maybe the Hopes is going to make it feel like more force is required.
This is definitely wild speculation but fox does have part numbers for the rhythm 38. Previous rhythm products were a little heavier and used some different materials. The most significant difference was a thicker tube wall for the stations. I have a z1 bomber and have ridden it back to back with 36 and I think there is definitely a stiffness benefit from the thicker tubes. Maybe these black stantion 38s are using the rhythm chassis to get a little more stiffness.
I've dropped my Process 153 off back of my vehicle and almost taken a leg off with the crank arm spinning back. Wicked kickback
LOL at 160lbs being "super light"... 'murica!