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It was more of a joke, no worries. To me the most important thing in my bike is the set it and forget it part of it. I don't fiddle with anything, I take it off the wall rack and go for the a ride and ride. I don't want to extract 5 % more performance from it, I want the break from the rest of the things in life and just have fun riding it.

It would for sure, right up until you had to do an oil change every 500 miles, or have tires made for it (you’re not buying off TireRack.com for this)….I love all forms of Motorsport, and cycling, hell boats too, but a race rig, designed for racing is not a daily drive rig….We all have to get over what so and so races, or rides, or what ever. I raced motoX for years, at what I believed to be a fairly high level. Had a chance to spend a weekend with a first class moto team, and realized my world...

headset routing saves exactly 0.000032 drag coefficient for a clusterluck of maintenance and part availability

Attention mountain bike industry! IGNORE THIS DRIVEL. This person does not speak for the rest of us;

New Fuel EX: Obviously going to be 140mm with the top Fuel at 120mm. Bit slacker. Might have mullet option as one build. Retains internal storage and uses the less proprietary shock setup like Top Fuel. Shock may be mounted upside down. There are also rumors that the design is 'radical departure' from current Trek industrial design/suspension layout. But I assume it stays with ABP. Tallboy: Bit lighter (frame is heavy for travel amount/place in lineup), internal frame storage, slight geo tweaks. Slight possibility they take the Blur platform and build frame burlier so it's more of a Epic EVO/downcountry...

You're joking about the aero gains, right?

My latest project has been to beef up a Canyon Spectral AL 29" for Alpine riding. I have a Wild Enduro Front Race Line, 1300g, Magi-X up front. Previously I ran standard Wild Enduro's, 1000-ish grams GUM-X up front with great success on rocks, roots, dry, wet and everything else. On the rear I have a Wild Enduro Rear Race Line, 1300g, Magi-X with a Rimpact insert. The main issue I have is that despite it being an aggressive semi-slick rear, because the rubber is soft it still drags a bit, and is already showing signs of wear. However it...

REgular WE do not have grip on roots/stones (i had it in Magi-X compound). This tire need loose or soft ground to dig in. Then it shines. Racing line is probably better on roots/stones. But then go with DH22 (if you want your tire to weigh 1.5kg) because it has a better design of knobs which will harder bite on roots/stones than WE. Dh22 and Assegai with Maxxgrip compound (Chose casing which you whant EXO+, DD or DH) is the best tyres for roots/stones (wet or dry) (my conclusion from forums) (some ppls say that Continental Der Baron Project Apex...

This is so interesting, i have been testing my Megatower 1 with a 27 rear wheel back and forth and i think it rides so much better with the MX setup, it feels so much more alive and fun to ride than with a full 29 setup. Thou i have been riding my Megatower with 29” wheels for over 2 years, and loving it, before testing the M2MX i now can not think i will go back. The bike feels so playful and nimble but still can climb really good. I haven’t really tried it as a downhill bike yet...

It’s like there’s an echo in here…

Because of so many people who believe every bike must be lower, longer, and slacker than anything else before it.. It is kinda ironic that people who who race at a level well above any of us average riders use much more conservative geometry than what the average rider thinks will allow themselves to ride at a pro level..

The Overall EWS men's title has never been won on a bike with a reach longer than 465mm (correct me if I am incorrect?) .... regardless of rider size/shape etc... Why have Canyon made an Enduro race bike that makes enduro hard to race?

Remember that gravel bikes use shorter stems, hence you need to compensate with longer TT.

this is one of those simple things where you smack your head and say "of course" it's such a simple mod/tooling for a good outcome. Cascade kicking goals! I'm pretty certain a new DHX2 needs a full service to remove the lower eyelet? Not like some of the old shocks where we could thread them off in a vice.

Cascade teasing a custom DHX2 shock eyelet...possibly a sort of geometry adjustment/MX conversion for bikes without a dedicated flip chip?

you can also discuss strive's geo on our strive review - https://www.vitalmtb.com/product/guide/Bikes,3/Canyon/Strive-CFR,36924#…

Hey guys! Check this out: https://www.vitalmtb.com/forums/The-Hub,2/How-Much-Reach-is-Too-Much-Re…

The counter point to that would be that the longer reach paired with the short rear end would mean the rider has to more aggressively weight the front. Which would likely be very tiring at race pace over several EWS stages.

Very preliminary opinion from someone on the Meta 29 with 495 reach and 435 chainstays after a few rides: It’s stupidly easy to pick up the rear wheel and throw it around tight corners. Not the „you have to lean into it“ kind of corner but the euro almost switchback corner. Had the previous meta before that with 460/432 and I feel like the more forward weight bias helps a lot with that. I’m a pretty mediocre rider at best and my attempts at riding switchbacks have become noticeably better. With EWS tracks being tighter and slower speeds than DH...