I've never stripped the threads from a Magura master, but I just serviced some Magura brakes which were handed to me off the bike. Replaced the...
I've never stripped the threads from a Magura master, but I just serviced some Magura brakes which were handed to me off the bike. Replaced the lever blades, cleaned and exercised the pistons, installed new pads, bled the system. Some might say it was the best feeling in the world... Unfortunately, after all that upon reinstalling it turns out the plastic threads in the lever clamp were already stripped so the master cylinder went in the trash. Yay!
The fact that they use a deep Torx head on the screws perplexes me, Torx signals "I can take high torque, have a go bro!". A #1 Philips head seems more appropriate with the torque spec debossed on the clamp, maybe a shallow 2.5mm hex.
One of the first carbotecture brakes I got to work on had a nagging issue of losing the bleed after half an hour or so of use. Turned out one of the clamp posts loosened up, allowing air ingestion. And I just thought what a silly way to do a reservoir. Then the bleed screw's head popped off when I was securing it and I just thought this experience has pretty much turned me off of em for my own rigs. I mean, I didn't think that I was hamfisting things since I was using a thumb and forefinger only on the screw, but....
I've never stripped the threads from a Magura master, but I just serviced some Magura brakes which were handed to me off the bike. Replaced the...
I've never stripped the threads from a Magura master, but I just serviced some Magura brakes which were handed to me off the bike. Replaced the lever blades, cleaned and exercised the pistons, installed new pads, bled the system. Some might say it was the best feeling in the world... Unfortunately, after all that upon reinstalling it turns out the plastic threads in the lever clamp were already stripped so the master cylinder went in the trash. Yay!
The fact that they use a deep Torx head on the screws perplexes me, Torx signals "I can take high torque, have a go bro!". A #1 Philips head seems more appropriate with the torque spec debossed on the clamp, maybe a shallow 2.5mm hex.
I think the thinking was "one tool to rule them all" as even the pad pin is T25. Honestly I can't fault them at that logic, jumping between different Allen and torx keys to service a brake (or to move bar controls OR remove the stem) is a pain in the ass. But yeah, using a "wood" screw in plastic with a T25 hole is a recipe for disaster.
Indeed. Having recently bleed both a Shimano and a Magura set, bleeding Sram brakes is the best thing that can happen to you. Easy and clean. I almost spilled mineral oil on my head bumping the bike and spilling it from the cup when bleeding one of the two above.
I think the thinking was "one tool to rule them all" as even the pad pin is T25. Honestly I can't fault them at that logic...
I think the thinking was "one tool to rule them all" as even the pad pin is T25. Honestly I can't fault them at that logic, jumping between different Allen and torx keys to service a brake (or to move bar controls OR remove the stem) is a pain in the ass. But yeah, using a "wood" screw in plastic with a T25 hole is a recipe for disaster.
At the turn of the last century, having purged imperial sized hex keys from our tool boxes, the bike world enjoyed peace in the form of The Metric System (SHCS edition). But complacency set in and some unnamed evil force introduced Torx, like Sauron they poured their cruelty, malice and will to chafe knuckles into this tool.
You wouldn't have to jump between Allen and Torx keys if here were no Torx. Resist! Fight evil! Fault them at their logic! Say no to Torx!
Also, what's up with Sram using Torx everywhere except to remove Dub cranks where ∞Nm is often required? I'm not a fan. </rant>
There are stems that have a 3 mm Allen for the handlebar and a 5 mm Allen for the steerer. There are still bikes that have a 5 mm Allen for the rear axle and a 6 mm for the front axle (though for that one I cannot fathom why we ditched QR through axles, so much so I had an UDH compatible Maxle made).
It's not a problem jumping between torx and Allen, it's about jumping between different sizes primarily. I never know if the pad pin on sram brakes is 3 mm or 2,5 mm (it's 2,5 mm) because I am SURE it used to be 3 mm. Calipers are 5 mm. Shimano brake levers are 4 or 3 mm. Shifters are 6 mm??
If I have to choose allen vs. torx, I'd choose torx though. I know it will probably be an unpopular opinion, but it's just better. Much less prone to stripping. Why 2,5 mm Allen key pedal pins can't be torx is beyond me. I get most people don't have torx keys, but if you don't have eirher it's all the same. </rant>
God I hate needing three or four different tools to install one component. the 10 speed era shimano brakes were the worst. How did it go? 2mm to pop the stupid latch for the lever clamp open, 2.5mm for the bleed port in the lever, 3mm for the brake pads, 4mm for the lever clamp, 5mm for the caliper bolts? Something like that.
Edit: Oh yeah, plus a T25 for the damn rotor bolts.
Indeed. Having recently bleed both a Shimano and a Magura set, bleeding Sram brakes is the best thing that can happen to you. Easy and clean...
Indeed. Having recently bleed both a Shimano and a Magura set, bleeding Sram brakes is the best thing that can happen to you. Easy and clean. I almost spilled mineral oil on my head bumping the bike and spilling it from the cup when bleeding one of the two above.
Did you work on the Level Ts though? No bleeding edge port on the caliper, shitty access of the lever reach bolt, generally way messier on both ends than all other brakes I worked on apart from the Hope master cylinder shenanigans when you unscrew the syringes. The whole spiel with two syringes and need of vacuum is just silly IMO, plus even the expensive SRAM bleeding kit leaks air from the hose assembly when pulling it and the clamps are hard as fuck to operate. I had to drop the caliper to the floor and angle the bike to get a semi-decent bleed and even after three tries, there's still a small stubborn bubble somewhere that rears its ugly end while riding randomly.
They shall be binned after the winter season is ovah.
There are stems that have a 3 mm Allen for the handlebar and a 5 mm Allen for the steerer. There are still bikes that have...
There are stems that have a 3 mm Allen for the handlebar and a 5 mm Allen for the steerer. There are still bikes that have a 5 mm Allen for the rear axle and a 6 mm for the front axle (though for that one I cannot fathom why we ditched QR through axles, so much so I had an UDH compatible Maxle made).
It's not a problem jumping between torx and Allen, it's about jumping between different sizes primarily. I never know if the pad pin on sram brakes is 3 mm or 2,5 mm (it's 2,5 mm) because I am SURE it used to be 3 mm. Calipers are 5 mm. Shimano brake levers are 4 or 3 mm. Shifters are 6 mm??
If I have to choose allen vs. torx, I'd choose torx though. I know it will probably be an unpopular opinion, but it's just better. Much less prone to stripping. Why 2,5 mm Allen key pedal pins can't be torx is beyond me. I get most people don't have torx keys, but if you don't have eirher it's all the same. </rant>
For sram brake pad pins you can use the same T10 that you use for taking the lever bleed port cap off. (Learned it directly from Sram at one of their tech clinics)
I’d love it if bikes completely switched to Torx, it’s a much better standard. My Husqvarna 300 has a ton of them and I’ve really grown to like them.
Anybody have any suggestions for a "pro level'" syringes for a reasonable price? Almost $200 cad for the pro mineral oil SRAM kit seems excessive when all I want is the syringes and fittings.
Anybody have any suggestions for a "pro level'" syringes for a reasonable price? Almost $200 cad for the pro mineral oil SRAM kit seems excessive when...
Anybody have any suggestions for a "pro level'" syringes for a reasonable price? Almost $200 cad for the pro mineral oil SRAM kit seems excessive when all I want is the syringes and fittings.
Anybody have any suggestions for a "pro level'" syringes for a reasonable price? Almost $200 cad for the pro mineral oil SRAM kit seems excessive when...
Anybody have any suggestions for a "pro level'" syringes for a reasonable price? Almost $200 cad for the pro mineral oil SRAM kit seems excessive when all I want is the syringes and fittings.
Anybody have any suggestions for a "pro level'" syringes for a reasonable price? Almost $200 cad for the pro mineral oil SRAM kit seems excessive when...
Anybody have any suggestions for a "pro level'" syringes for a reasonable price? Almost $200 cad for the pro mineral oil SRAM kit seems excessive when all I want is the syringes and fittings.
I've never stripped the threads from a Magura master, but I just serviced some Magura brakes which were handed to me off the bike. Replaced the...
I've never stripped the threads from a Magura master, but I just serviced some Magura brakes which were handed to me off the bike. Replaced the lever blades, cleaned and exercised the pistons, installed new pads, bled the system. Some might say it was the best feeling in the world... Unfortunately, after all that upon reinstalling it turns out the plastic threads in the lever clamp were already stripped so the master cylinder went in the trash. Yay!
The fact that they use a deep Torx head on the screws perplexes me, Torx signals "I can take high torque, have a go bro!". A #1 Philips head seems more appropriate with the torque spec debossed on the clamp, maybe a shallow 2.5mm hex.
Surprisingly enough you are supposed to read the manual to find out torque specs not just guess based on what type of head is on the fastener.
Anybody have any suggestions for a "pro level'" syringes for a reasonable price? Almost $200 cad for the pro mineral oil SRAM kit seems excessive when...
Anybody have any suggestions for a "pro level'" syringes for a reasonable price? Almost $200 cad for the pro mineral oil SRAM kit seems excessive when all I want is the syringes and fittings.
If you're not Ali/Amazon/ebay averse there are a number of options that fall under the 'good syringes, under $100' requirement. I've one from RiderAce for mineral oil brakes that's been perfectly fine in use that was maybe $30 or so when I got it. As with all bleed kits, the best thing you can do for em longevity wise is give them a clean after use. Flush with water then spray down with isopropyl and let em dry after.
I've never stripped the threads from a Magura master, but I just serviced some Magura brakes which were handed to me off the bike. Replaced the...
I've never stripped the threads from a Magura master, but I just serviced some Magura brakes which were handed to me off the bike. Replaced the lever blades, cleaned and exercised the pistons, installed new pads, bled the system. Some might say it was the best feeling in the world... Unfortunately, after all that upon reinstalling it turns out the plastic threads in the lever clamp were already stripped so the master cylinder went in the trash. Yay!
The fact that they use a deep Torx head on the screws perplexes me, Torx signals "I can take high torque, have a go bro!". A #1 Philips head seems more appropriate with the torque spec debossed on the clamp, maybe a shallow 2.5mm hex.
Surprisingly enough you are supposed to read the manual to find out torque specs not just guess based on what type of head is on the...
Surprisingly enough you are supposed to read the manual to find out torque specs not just guess based on what type of head is on the fastener.
The designer should be selecting an appropriate fixing size/tool size for the application. Good design should make it easy for the user to get it right and hard for them to get it wrong.
The designer should be selecting an appropriate fixing size/tool size for the application. Good design should make it easy for the user to get it right...
The designer should be selecting an appropriate fixing size/tool size for the application. Good design should make it easy for the user to get it right and hard for them to get it wrong.
That makes no sense at all. There are 6mm hex bolts on my bike that range from 5nm to 20nm torque spec. By your logic either my shock would fall out or my front wheel axle would be crushed.
There are stems that have a 3 mm Allen for the handlebar and a 5 mm Allen for the steerer. There are still bikes that have...
There are stems that have a 3 mm Allen for the handlebar and a 5 mm Allen for the steerer. There are still bikes that have a 5 mm Allen for the rear axle and a 6 mm for the front axle (though for that one I cannot fathom why we ditched QR through axles, so much so I had an UDH compatible Maxle made).
It's not a problem jumping between torx and Allen, it's about jumping between different sizes primarily. I never know if the pad pin on sram brakes is 3 mm or 2,5 mm (it's 2,5 mm) because I am SURE it used to be 3 mm. Calipers are 5 mm. Shimano brake levers are 4 or 3 mm. Shifters are 6 mm??
If I have to choose allen vs. torx, I'd choose torx though. I know it will probably be an unpopular opinion, but it's just better. Much less prone to stripping. Why 2,5 mm Allen key pedal pins can't be torx is beyond me. I get most people don't have torx keys, but if you don't have eirher it's all the same. </rant>
For sram brake pad pins you can use the same T10 that you use for taking the lever bleed port cap off. (Learned it directly from...
For sram brake pad pins you can use the same T10 that you use for taking the lever bleed port cap off. (Learned it directly from Sram at one of their tech clinics)
I’d love it if bikes completely switched to Torx, it’s a much better standard. My Husqvarna 300 has a ton of them and I’ve really grown to like them.
The designer should be selecting an appropriate fixing size/tool size for the application. Good design should make it easy for the user to get it right...
The designer should be selecting an appropriate fixing size/tool size for the application. Good design should make it easy for the user to get it right and hard for them to get it wrong.
That makes no sense at all. There are 6mm hex bolts on my bike that range from 5nm to 20nm torque spec. By your logic either...
That makes no sense at all. There are 6mm hex bolts on my bike that range from 5nm to 20nm torque spec. By your logic either my shock would fall out or my front wheel axle would be crushed.
Just because that is what is on your bike, does not mean it's well designed, some of these fixings/torque values are probably not the appropriate choice. In your example.the thread size is completely different between the two fixings though, so I would expect a different torque. Ideally this would be with a different tool size also.
There is a great book called The design of everyday things, by Don Norman that I would recommend reading on the subject.
I've never stripped the threads from a Magura master, but I just serviced some Magura brakes which were handed to me off the bike. Replaced the...
I've never stripped the threads from a Magura master, but I just serviced some Magura brakes which were handed to me off the bike. Replaced the lever blades, cleaned and exercised the pistons, installed new pads, bled the system. Some might say it was the best feeling in the world... Unfortunately, after all that upon reinstalling it turns out the plastic threads in the lever clamp were already stripped so the master cylinder went in the trash. Yay!
The fact that they use a deep Torx head on the screws perplexes me, Torx signals "I can take high torque, have a go bro!". A #1 Philips head seems more appropriate with the torque spec debossed on the clamp, maybe a shallow 2.5mm hex.
They've been making these brakes for 10 years now so if it were costing Magura too much in warranty replacements or bad press I assume they'd revert to their previous design where the carbotecture material was fortified with an aluminum clamp. With that said, the whole Shigura thing was originally devised by folk who'd stripped either the clamp or bleed threads from their Magura levers. I have Shiguras' on my bike so I'm grateful for this😁.
The designer should be selecting an appropriate fixing size/tool size for the application. Good design should make it easy for the user to get it right...
The designer should be selecting an appropriate fixing size/tool size for the application. Good design should make it easy for the user to get it right and hard for them to get it wrong.
That makes no sense at all. There are 6mm hex bolts on my bike that range from 5nm to 20nm torque spec. By your logic either...
That makes no sense at all. There are 6mm hex bolts on my bike that range from 5nm to 20nm torque spec. By your logic either my shock would fall out or my front wheel axle would be crushed.
Just because that is what is on your bike, does not mean it's well designed, some of these fixings/torque values are probably not the appropriate choice...
Just because that is what is on your bike, does not mean it's well designed, some of these fixings/torque values are probably not the appropriate choice. In your example.the thread size is completely different between the two fixings though, so I would expect a different torque. Ideally this would be with a different tool size also.
There is a great book called The design of everyday things, by Don Norman that I would recommend reading on the subject.
I've never stripped the threads from a Magura master, but I just serviced some Magura brakes which were handed to me off the bike. Replaced the...
I've never stripped the threads from a Magura master, but I just serviced some Magura brakes which were handed to me off the bike. Replaced the lever blades, cleaned and exercised the pistons, installed new pads, bled the system. Some might say it was the best feeling in the world... Unfortunately, after all that upon reinstalling it turns out the plastic threads in the lever clamp were already stripped so the master cylinder went in the trash. Yay!
The fact that they use a deep Torx head on the screws perplexes me, Torx signals "I can take high torque, have a go bro!". A #1 Philips head seems more appropriate with the torque spec debossed on the clamp, maybe a shallow 2.5mm hex.
The designer should be selecting an appropriate fixing size/tool size for the application. Good design should make it easy for the user to get it right...
The designer should be selecting an appropriate fixing size/tool size for the application. Good design should make it easy for the user to get it right and hard for them to get it wrong.
Agreed on this one, though having one tool to handle everything is also a good design choice from the user's perspective.
The thing is, even with a T25 bleed screw, you won't do much damage if you have an aluminium body and a steel screw. The problem lies in having a plastic screw and a plastic body and speccing a tightening torque that is easily achieved 'finger tight' by only tightening by twisting the round stem of the T25 torx wrench without using the perpendicular extension(s). Screwing plastic bolts in plastic threads is just not a common thing and I think that's a big part of why people are stripping those.
I've never stripped the threads from a Magura master, but I just serviced some Magura brakes which were handed to me off the bike. Replaced the...
I've never stripped the threads from a Magura master, but I just serviced some Magura brakes which were handed to me off the bike. Replaced the lever blades, cleaned and exercised the pistons, installed new pads, bled the system. Some might say it was the best feeling in the world... Unfortunately, after all that upon reinstalling it turns out the plastic threads in the lever clamp were already stripped so the master cylinder went in the trash. Yay!
The fact that they use a deep Torx head on the screws perplexes me, Torx signals "I can take high torque, have a go bro!". A #1 Philips head seems more appropriate with the torque spec debossed on the clamp, maybe a shallow 2.5mm hex.
Surprisingly enough you are supposed to read the manual to find out torque specs not just guess based on what type of head is on the...
Surprisingly enough you are supposed to read the manual to find out torque specs not just guess based on what type of head is on the fastener.
Yes, reading torque specs is helpful, but I think that's a pretty high bar to expect for every one of the hundreds of bolts on a bike.
Deiter Rams is a pretty smart designer, and he said good design is honest, and it should make a product understandable and useful. Speccing a big tool interface with a low torque spec doesn't seem very honest or understandable, and stripping the threads of your master cylinder doesn't seem to make the product useful, either.
Another smart person, a park ranger who was teaching my group of friends about trail design and maintenance, told us to design trails for the way people are, not the way we want them to be.
The designer should be selecting an appropriate fixing size/tool size for the application. Good design should make it easy for the user to get it right...
The designer should be selecting an appropriate fixing size/tool size for the application. Good design should make it easy for the user to get it right and hard for them to get it wrong.
Agreed on this one, though having one tool to handle everything is also a good design choice from the user's perspective.The thing is, even with a...
Agreed on this one, though having one tool to handle everything is also a good design choice from the user's perspective.
The thing is, even with a T25 bleed screw, you won't do much damage if you have an aluminium body and a steel screw. The problem lies in having a plastic screw and a plastic body and speccing a tightening torque that is easily achieved 'finger tight' by only tightening by twisting the round stem of the T25 torx wrench without using the perpendicular extension(s). Screwing plastic bolts in plastic threads is just not a common thing and I think that's a big part of why people are stripping those.
Not to mention that if a bike is high use, those bleed screw heads will be weakened by exposure to temperature change and uv radiation, and leading to failure and torques below spec.
One of the first carbotecture brakes I got to work on had a nagging issue of losing the bleed after half an hour or so of use. Turned out one of the clamp posts loosened up, allowing air ingestion. And I just thought what a silly way to do a reservoir. Then the bleed screw's head popped off when I was securing it and I just thought this experience has pretty much turned me off of em for my own rigs. I mean, I didn't think that I was hamfisting things since I was using a thumb and forefinger only on the screw, but....
I recently bought a bike with SRAM Level T brakes. Bleeding them should never be this unpredictable / random / hard. WTF SRAM.
What seems to be the struggle with them?
Probably cause you’re supposed to bin them straight away
I think the thinking was "one tool to rule them all" as even the pad pin is T25. Honestly I can't fault them at that logic, jumping between different Allen and torx keys to service a brake (or to move bar controls OR remove the stem) is a pain in the ass. But yeah, using a "wood" screw in plastic with a T25 hole is a recipe for disaster.
Indeed. Having recently bleed both a Shimano and a Magura set, bleeding Sram brakes is the best thing that can happen to you. Easy and clean. I almost spilled mineral oil on my head bumping the bike and spilling it from the cup when bleeding one of the two above.
At the turn of the last century, having purged imperial sized hex keys from our tool boxes, the bike world enjoyed peace in the form of The Metric System (SHCS edition). But complacency set in and some unnamed evil force introduced Torx, like Sauron they poured their cruelty, malice and will to chafe knuckles into this tool.
You wouldn't have to jump between Allen and Torx keys if here were no Torx. Resist! Fight evil! Fault them at their logic! Say no to Torx!
Also, what's up with Sram using Torx everywhere except to remove Dub cranks where ∞Nm is often required? I'm not a fan. </rant>
There are stems that have a 3 mm Allen for the handlebar and a 5 mm Allen for the steerer. There are still bikes that have a 5 mm Allen for the rear axle and a 6 mm for the front axle (though for that one I cannot fathom why we ditched QR through axles, so much so I had an UDH compatible Maxle made).
It's not a problem jumping between torx and Allen, it's about jumping between different sizes primarily. I never know if the pad pin on sram brakes is 3 mm or 2,5 mm (it's 2,5 mm) because I am SURE it used to be 3 mm. Calipers are 5 mm. Shimano brake levers are 4 or 3 mm. Shifters are 6 mm??
If I have to choose allen vs. torx, I'd choose torx though. I know it will probably be an unpopular opinion, but it's just better. Much less prone to stripping. Why 2,5 mm Allen key pedal pins can't be torx is beyond me. I get most people don't have torx keys, but if you don't have eirher it's all the same. </rant>
God I hate needing three or four different tools to install one component. the 10 speed era shimano brakes were the worst. How did it go? 2mm to pop the stupid latch for the lever clamp open, 2.5mm for the bleed port in the lever, 3mm for the brake pads, 4mm for the lever clamp, 5mm for the caliper bolts? Something like that.
Edit: Oh yeah, plus a T25 for the damn rotor bolts.
Did you work on the Level Ts though? No bleeding edge port on the caliper, shitty access of the lever reach bolt, generally way messier on both ends than all other brakes I worked on apart from the Hope master cylinder shenanigans when you unscrew the syringes. The whole spiel with two syringes and need of vacuum is just silly IMO, plus even the expensive SRAM bleeding kit leaks air from the hose assembly when pulling it and the clamps are hard as fuck to operate. I had to drop the caliper to the floor and angle the bike to get a semi-decent bleed and even after three tries, there's still a small stubborn bubble somewhere that rears its ugly end while riding randomly.
They shall be binned after the winter season is ovah.
For sram brake pad pins you can use the same T10 that you use for taking the lever bleed port cap off. (Learned it directly from Sram at one of their tech clinics)
I’d love it if bikes completely switched to Torx, it’s a much better standard. My Husqvarna 300 has a ton of them and I’ve really grown to like them.
Anybody have any suggestions for a "pro level'" syringes for a reasonable price? Almost $200 cad for the pro mineral oil SRAM kit seems excessive when all I want is the syringes and fittings.
this looks decent for the price
SRAM WORKSHOP BLEED KIT - MINERAL MODELS – Essential Cycles
Holy fuck $110 for two syringes and few pieces of plastic?
this is canadian pesos, so probably $20USD lol
https://soshanger.ca/en/home/5563-bleedkit-sram-workshop-mineral-edition-bk-90051.html
this one is slightly cheaper for sram mineral with decent syringes.
Surprisingly enough you are supposed to read the manual to find out torque specs not just guess based on what type of head is on the fastener.
If you're not Ali/Amazon/ebay averse there are a number of options that fall under the 'good syringes, under $100' requirement. I've one from RiderAce for mineral oil brakes that's been perfectly fine in use that was maybe $30 or so when I got it. As with all bleed kits, the best thing you can do for em longevity wise is give them a clean after use. Flush with water then spray down with isopropyl and let em dry after.
The designer should be selecting an appropriate fixing size/tool size for the application. Good design should make it easy for the user to get it right and hard for them to get it wrong.
That makes no sense at all. There are 6mm hex bolts on my bike that range from 5nm to 20nm torque spec. By your logic either my shock would fall out or my front wheel axle would be crushed.
Torx> hex
Convert all my bikes over
BleedZone SRAM Maven Hydraulic Disc Brake Bleed Kit – BleedZone LLC
Found this as well, $53 CAD on Amazon.
Just because that is what is on your bike, does not mean it's well designed, some of these fixings/torque values are probably not the appropriate choice. In your example.the thread size is completely different between the two fixings though, so I would expect a different torque. Ideally this would be with a different tool size also.
There is a great book called The design of everyday things, by Don Norman that I would recommend reading on the subject.
Indeed.
As I said "I've never stripped the threads from a Magura master..." but this seems to be a pretty common occurrence. It strikes me that having the torque called out in the manual is often insufficient which is why said perhaps it would be helpful if they they offered some visual cues on the parts such as having "...the torque spec debossed on the clamp."
They've been making these brakes for 10 years now so if it were costing Magura too much in warranty replacements or bad press I assume they'd revert to their previous design where the carbotecture material was fortified with an aluminum clamp. With that said, the whole Shigura thing was originally devised by folk who'd stripped either the clamp or bleed threads from their Magura levers. I have Shiguras' on my bike so I'm grateful for this😁.
Always like a good book recommendo.
Agreed on this one, though having one tool to handle everything is also a good design choice from the user's perspective.
The thing is, even with a T25 bleed screw, you won't do much damage if you have an aluminium body and a steel screw. The problem lies in having a plastic screw and a plastic body and speccing a tightening torque that is easily achieved 'finger tight' by only tightening by twisting the round stem of the T25 torx wrench without using the perpendicular extension(s). Screwing plastic bolts in plastic threads is just not a common thing and I think that's a big part of why people are stripping those.
Best bleed syringes for holding vaccum?
Yes, reading torque specs is helpful, but I think that's a pretty high bar to expect for every one of the hundreds of bolts on a bike.
Deiter Rams is a pretty smart designer, and he said good design is honest, and it should make a product understandable and useful. Speccing a big tool interface with a low torque spec doesn't seem very honest or understandable, and stripping the threads of your master cylinder doesn't seem to make the product useful, either.
Another smart person, a park ranger who was teaching my group of friends about trail design and maintenance, told us to design trails for the way people are, not the way we want them to be.
I've been really impressed with the Bleed Zone stuff. I've got several of their stuff and it impressed me.
Not to mention that if a bike is high use, those bleed screw heads will be weakened by exposure to temperature change and uv radiation, and leading to failure and torques below spec.
Post a reply to: Nerding out on Brakes shall we? Not another tech deraliment